Bora NGX Clamp Edge Guide System Features Solid Concept with Room for Improvement

So you’re looking for an inexpensive way to get more from your circular saw. Using a track system to get accurate cuts is a great way to avoid the expense of a dedicated track saw or table saw. The Bora NGX Clamp Edge system is one option.

Bora NGX Clamp Edge Design

Clamp Edge Saw Guide

The foundation of the Bora NGX Clamp Edge system is the guide, or track if you prefer. Thinner than standard track saw rails, the saw plate glides over this guide to help you keep your cuts straight.

We checked our rails out of the box and they were good and straight from side to side. There was a little bit of a bow from front to back but it didn’t have any effect on the accuracy of our cuts. Considering that the very sheet goods tracks like this are designed to cut also bow, it’s not a big deal.

Saw Plate

The saw plate attaches to the bottom of your circular saw’s shoe and makes it fit on the guide. Three points of contact hold your saw in place.

We tried a couple of different saws on the plate—DeWalt’s FlexVolt Advantage and the Ridgid Octane circular saw—and were able to fit both correctly. It takes a little work to get it right, but the plate clamps give you plenty of adjustability to secure them.

To make sure your saw is square to the plate, there are tick marks to help you gauge the distance from the clamp rail. They’re effective, but black or white marks would help them stand out much better.

The plate material is also somewhat flimsy and relies on the rigidity of the circular saw’s shoe to stabilize it. That comes into play when you’re making your cut. If you put much pressure on the saw to the left or right, you can introduce a little bit of bevel to the cut.

By design, the clamping side of the plate is flush with the rail base and rests lightly on your material. The grid design on the bottom was able to put light scratches on our material. It’s no big deal for rough cuts, and you can cover it with painter’s tape for a quick fix if you need to avoid scratches.

Because the guide construction is tool plastic running along an aluminum track, it’s not as smooth as dedicated track saws. One upgrade might be to add adjustable tension nylon rollers as you see on track saw shoes. Using it in its current design, you can go with a dry lubrication spray to decrease friction.

Guide Clamps

Bora has two styles of clamps that come in the Deluxe Set we’re reviewing. One is for standard straight cuts and another style you can use straight or for cutting angles.

We LOVE the concept of the locking handle clamp. To use it, set your guide, pull it so that the fixed end butts up against the far end of your material, and then snug the clamp up to the opposite end. Push the handle forward and it locks the guide down securely.

It holds well and prevents any guide movement. However, we noticed that it pushes against the side edges of the rail enough to kick them out slightly. As we slid the plate toward the clamp, it created additional friction that we had to force our way through to complete the cut. We found that our results were a little better by setting up to start on the clamp side so the extra friction was at the beginning of the cut.

Reinforcing the guide on the clamp end and switching to a rubberized design on the pieces that kick out to the side could help with the next version.

We switched over to the other track clamps and that eliminated the stickiness concern. The issue we ran into was that on a 4-foot cut across sheet material, there wasn’t enough room on the guide to use them. Other lengths are no problem—it’s just when you’re right on the edge of the guide length.

Bora NGX Clamp Edge Guide Pricing

You can piece together your Bora NGX Clamp Edge system the way you want or start with pre-configured sets that add more value. We tested the NGX Deluxe set and it runs $179 and the Premier Set (includes the T-square attachment) runs $199. Here’s what you can expect to pay for other components:

• 50-inch Clamp Edge Guide Extension: $50
• 100-inch Clamp Edge Guide (2 pieces): $95
• 36-inch Clamp Edge Guide: $50
• 24-inch Clamp Edge Guide: $45
• Saw Plate: $45
• T-Square Attachment: $25
• Non-Chip Strip: $18 (with saw plate: $50)

The Bottom Line

Conceptually, we love what the Bora Portamate NGX Clamp Edge system is working to accomplish. In its current form, it can undoubtedly help DIYers make more accurate cuts in sheet goods and avoid the expense of a table saw or a dedicated track saw. A few tactical improvements can elevate the system and make it the best add-on track system out there.

The post Bora NGX Clamp Edge Guide System appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

In nearly any construction-related trade, one of the most universally used tools is the tape measure. The Stanley FatMax Tape Measure is among the most popular tool we see on the jobsite bar none. With an 11-foot unsupported stand out thanks to a wider and thicker blade, one person can measure what sometimes would require two people. The folks at Stanley also designed this tape measure to take real-world jobsite abuse.

Editor’s Note: Think you know everything about tapes? Check out our article on how to read a tape measure and we promise you’ll learn something new!

Stanley FatMax Tape Measure Features

Having used and reviewed the best tape measures, I’ve pretty much seen it all. Everything from battery-operated, motorized versions to simple inexpensive tapes. In my personal tool collection, however, I keep going back to my Stanley FatMax tape measures. My two favorite sizes are the 16-foot and my 25-foot tapes. The 16-foot model comes in handy for doing smaller projects like trim and building things in my shop. I use the larger, 25-foot model when building decks and framing homes or additions.

I picked up some new Stanley FatMax Tape Measures the other day to replace one that got concrete all over the blade. That’s what I get for lending my tools to a mason!

What is the Standout on the Stanley Fatmax Tape Measure?

The Stanley FaxMax tape measure has an 11-foot unsupported blade standout. That may be one of its best features.

A long standout matters—particularly when working alone. Using a tape measure like the Stanley Fatmax with a long standout means you can quickly and easily take measurements without someone needing to hold or place the “dumb” end of the tape.

Stanley Fatmax Tape Measure Features

Durable Blade Coating

Stanley coated the entire length of the blade with a Mylar polyester film which helps to protect the blade and helps it last longer. The first 5 inches or so of the blade, closest to the tip, has an extra cover. Stanley used to call this BladeArmor. This industrial thermoplastic layer covers the most-abused portion of the blade and strengthens this section to help reduce breakage. It works similarly to the Milwaukee Tool nylon blade coating on their tape measure line.

Blade Lock and Wide Body

The blade lock is a simple push-pull thumb switch that is a little tight to engage when the tape is new; but after some use, it really gets easier to operate. The outside shell of the tape is made of ABS plastic with at least 85% of the outside covered with black overmold rubber to give grip and also cushion the tape should you drop it on a hard surface – and you will.

One thing quickly jumps out to folks not familiar with the Stanley FatMax line of tapes. They are FAT! Since the blade is a full 1-1/4” wide, it makes the body of the tape measure wider. Should you have small hands, it might take a while to get used to the larger size. We are pretty sure though, that once you do get used to the size, you will never go back to your old tape measure.

Testing and Use

Testing the Stanley 33-725 FatMax 25-foot Tape Measure was easy. For one of my recent projects, I whipped it out to measure some studs for a wall framing project. FatMax tapes have been a part of my tool collection for a long time. I consider them old friends. We have seen some users gripe that the overall curvature of the extended blade is a little excessive. This holds especially true when compared to other 3/4″ and 1″ wide tapes.

The reason for the complaints is that when you need to make very accurate cuts, you need to twist the tape blade slightly. This lets the edge rest against the material being cut. With other narrower tapes, this is not quite as noticeable. With most, the blade lacks this extreme curvature.

Fat Max, Fat Body

Also, they are quick to point out how fat the tape measure body is too. But then they quickly realize the trade-offs that come with the fatter blade too. Like how the extra curvature actually makes the blade stiffer when it is extended out to its limits and how it is not floppy at all. What we found interesting is that even though the packaging claimed 11 feet; we actually got it out to nearly 12 feet with no support.

We suspect that after some break-in time this length will diminish some. The retracting spring is plenty powerful enough too, and if you are not careful, it will whip the metal tape in at a rather fast rate. The packaging suggests not letting the tape slam into the body to help extend the life of the tool. We found that the tip is easy to latch onto the end of most of the materials that we measured thanks to its shape.

Conclusion

All in all, the Stanley FatMax Tape Measure lineup still proves itself a staple of the jobsite. While not perfect, it combines some of the most important qualities that a tape measure needs. We like the long stand-out and extra stiffness of the blade. The simple blade lock and easy-to-read measurements also prove a consistent advantage. It tops our performance scales as a great rugged jobsite measuring tool.

About the only negative comes with the price. Unless you land a sale, the Stanley Fatmax tape measure typically comes at a premium cost vs the competition. Expect to pay between $17 and $35 depending on the model you choose.

The post Stanley FatMax Tape Measure Review appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Arguably one of the oldest tools known to humanity is the hammer. The irony is that we’re still trying to come up with new ways to improve it! While it might be a prehistoric tool, it’s unlikely to go extinct any time soon since most homes (at least in the USA) are still constructed out of wood. While the best nail guns take a lot of the work out of driving nails, you still find a hammer slung from the hip of any framing contractor. For this reason, we looked at many of the current hammers on the market to select the best framing hammer.

The Best Framing Hammer – A Key Tool

In the years I’ve done construction, I’ve found many strong opinions on hammers. Actually, now that I think about it, hammers could be one of the most polarizing tools I’ve encountered. Everyone has their opinions on what makes a good hammer. Steel, wood, or fiberglass handle? Titanium or steel head? Straight or curved handle? Smooth or textured grip? In full disclosure, even I have to admit some bias. My framing hammer of choice for the last several years has been a Douglas 20 oz framer. This hammer is great because of the genius head to handle connection, the straight, chisel-tipped ripping claw, and the side nail puller. The fit and finish are second to none, and there is a certain balance that I appreciate. It is a beautiful blend of function and form. But is it the very best hammer? That’s a very good question. I’d like to find out.

Although I had some favorites, that’s not to completely diminish the other hammers in our lineup. Some of them definitely had some great qualities worth mentioning. Following are our recommendations on the best framing hammer for various applications.

Best Framing Hammer Overall

Stiletto Ti16MC 16 oz.

The claim to fame of the Stiletto Ti16MS framing hammer is its 16 oz. titanium head. This head, combined with a straight hickory handle, was the overall lightest hammer in the lineup. However, it still weighed more than the Stiletto 12 oz Titanium Remodeler hammer. The head is very classic in its style with a large strike face and deep milling.

There is a magnetic nail holder on the top of the head. At the base where the handle is inserted into the head, there is about a 3/4-inch extension of extra metal. This provides some strike protection to the handle. Quite simply, this hammer is a joy to swing, and over time your arm, shoulder, and elbow will thank you. While the $107 retail price tag is the second most expensive in the test, you can find it online for far less. And really, if you’re swinging a hammer all day long, I’m not sure you can put a price on comfort.

Pros: Lightest hammer in the test, Second largest strike face.
Cons: Cost.
Verdict: The heavy-hitter with the lightest swing.
Price: $99.99

Best Framing Hammer for Demolition

DeWalt DWHT51411 17 oz.

While I’m normally a fan of DeWalt tools, this hammer frustrated me. The thing that got to me was the oddly-angled head. What I found is that it never seemed to swing with the feel of a traditional hammer—often striking unevenly. Still, we loved the “Fubar”-like design that grips and twists 2x4s effectly when using a nailer (in your other hand) to secure studs. We also loved the integrated side nail puller.

Pros: Low price, nail puller.
Cons: Odd swing, no nail magnet.
Verdict: While it swings well and hits hard, the sticky coating on this handle will likely drive you nuts.
Price: $37.99

Best Wood-Handled Framer

Vaughan & Bushnell 2115C Dalluge 21 oz. Framing Hammer

The Vaughan & Bushnell 2115C Dalluge Framing Hammer features a 21-ounce waffled head. As a framing hammer, we love the simple design. The 18-inch hickory handle feels great in the hand and gives you a comfortable swing. The steel head also features a magnetic nail holder. Of all the hammers tested, this tool felt most like the quintessential framer.

Pros: Magnetic nail puller, comfortable swing
Cons: None
Verdict: If you want a traditional “no-frills” framing hammer, it doesn’t get better than this.
Price: $65

Dead On Tools 24oz Investment Cast Wood Hammer

We’d call this one a runner-up. This 24-ounce hammer really felt easy to swing—despite its weight. From the black wood handle to the milled face, the Dead On Tools 24oz investment cast wood hammer means business.

We like the magnetic nail set and the confident straight black hickory handle. The hammer measures a full 18-inches from top to tail and it swings very naturally with excellent overall balance. If you’re all about the look this may be your tool!

Pros: Excellent balance, inexpensive.
Cons: No frills, non-replaceable head.
Verdict: This hammer is cool, but it’s not titanium and might have difficulty keeping its good looks.
Price: $99

Best Steel Framing Hammers

DeWalt MIG Weld Framing Hammers

Coming to market with a metal-handled hammer proves tricky since other well-established tools already exist. Where the DeWalt MIG weld framing hammer differs from others is its construction methods. Rather than a single forged handle and head, DeWalt uses three separate steel forges that it then mig welds together.

DeWalt does this so that it can heat treat each of the pieces differently. Combined, the hammer has good wear, toughness, and flexibility in all the right places. All in all, this hammer is comfortable to use. It exhibited decent balance as well. You can find these in sizes ranging from 12 to 15 ounces.

Pros: Light head with a large strike face, Attractive, Easy to swing, Size options.
Cons: Transfers more vibration than a wood-handle hammer.
Verdict: A heavy hammer that swings lighter than you might expect.
Price: $54

Douglas FR-20S or DFR-20S 20 oz.

This Douglas hammer was a gift to me from my brother who is a framing contractor in Alaska. He promised me that this hammer would become one of my favorite tools because of its balance, design, and features. He was completely right, as I’ve used this tool more than any other over the last 5 years since he gifted it to me. This hammer has a genius handle-to-head attachment system that is not only rigid but also provides handle overstrike protection.

Because of how it’s designed, it features one of the easiest-to-replace handles in the industry. The face features inverted dimples which help grip nails still but don’t mar delicate materials, and its built-in side nail pull and almost ruler-straight claw make it easy to do demo and disassembly work. This handle is relatively unchanged throughout the years except that the new model features an attractive red accent color. Unfortunately, Douglas cannot seem to keep this tool in stock. Neither can Vaughan who makes the similar (but titanium) 7180 Dalluge. If you can find one—buy it!

Pros: Stainless steel head, Excellent balance, Great fit and finish.
Cons: Cost and availability (they cannot seem to keep items in stock).
Verdict: In my opinion, this is the hammer to beat.
Price: Vaughan & Bushnell 7282 for $99

Best Titanium Framing Hammer

Stiletto TB3MC 15 oz Ti-Bone titanium hammer

I know we chose the hickory 16-ounce model as our top overall, but this model is titanium through-and-through. This 15-ounce hammer dates back to the beginning of the Stiletto brand. The Stiletto Ti-Bone III titanium hammer features a milled face (they have smooth as well) and an integrated 180º side nail-puller. The TB3MC hammer stands as one of my top four favorites out of the models I looked at.

It really drives hard—like a much heavier steel hammer. I’d put it around 24 ounces or higher if you want a comparison. The hammer features a removable steel face so you can purchase replacement heads (smooth or milled) without having to buy a whole new tool. It also gives you the strength of that steel hit with the weight of a titanium hammer.

It also featured titanium all the way through the hammer—not just at the head. The rubberized grip on the handle gives you a secure hold and doesn’t seem like it will peel or crack. We also love the well-placed thumb indent at the top of the coated handle.

Pros: Great price, Classic look, Nice balance.
Cons: Nothing to complain about here.
Verdict: One of my favorite hammers, and one of the best-looking in the crowd.
Price: Check out the 16oz titanium equivalent for $99

Best Budget Framing Hammer

Dead On 24 oz. Milled Face Straight Hickory Hammer

Dead On used to call this hammer the “Death Stick”. That inherently makes it cool (though not necessarily good). The steel head measures 24 ounces and includes a built-in magnetic nail set. You get a black curved hickory handle. This hammer falls in the middle for overall weight yet it had a balanced feel when swung.

The face of the hammer is not as aggressively textured as I like since it was investment cast and not finish machined. The strike face size is also the second smallest out of the hammers that I looked at. Finally, Dead On heat-treated the face area and claws to maximize life. You can find cheaper hammers, but for the price, we like this as our budget pick.

Pros: Cool name.
Cons: Smaller strike face, not very aggressively textured
Verdict: An aptly named tool whose name and look might be a bigger hit than the actual hammer.
Price: $34

Best Made in the USA Framing Hammers

Hardcore Hammers The Original 19 oz.

The idea behind The Original is certainly innovative. By slightly recessing the waffle, face wear by striking anything other than the nail is pretty much eliminated. However, the area surrounding the face is larger than I would like, so strikes anywhere other than near the dead center of the face are potentially nail-bending shots. Because of the face, it seemed to take an extra whack to really set nail heads flush with the wood. This tended to leave a decent circle imprint around the nail.

We did like the dual nail magnets on the top and bottom of the face. Hardcore Hammers also makes these tools in the USA.

Pros: Double nail magnets, lightweight steel head, hardened steel waffle face.
Cons: Small strike face area, Glancing blows tend to more easily bend the heads of nails.
Verdict: A hammer with a great idea that could use some tweaking.
Price: $105

Vaughan California Framer 19 oz.

The Vaughan California Framer 19 oz hammer has classic styling and size. If you like to wield a full-size hammer that hits hard, this American-made classic isn’t just a good choice—it’s a good value as well. I picked this hammer as one of my top four selections in this line-up.

Pros: Heavy head hits hard, No surprises.
Cons: Not much to complain about.
Verdict: This classic-style hammer hits hard and drives nails home as you’d expect.
Price: $46

Estwing Big Blue 25 oz.

This metal-handled Estwing hammer is probably the most identifiable out of our test. Time and time again I have seen these hammers beat to heck with faces worn smooth from use. Unlike wood-handled hammers, these metal Estwing tools have the distinction of being nearly indestructible. Perhaps that’s what makes them great for pulling nails and heavy-duty prying in addition to their nail-driving abilities.

While this hammer was the heaviest in our test, it still displayed good balance. The USA-made Estwing line of metal-handled hammers sits in my top four hammers list simply because of their durability and balance.

Pros: One piece handle and head, Reasonable price, Nice finish.
Cons: Nothing negative to note.
Verdict: This hammer is practically a staple tool in most contractors’ pouches and bags. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done.
Price: $49

So What Makes for the Best Framing Hammer?

To better understand some hammer technology (yes, there actually is technology involved), it makes sense to have a quick science lesson on the physics of a hammer.

Don’t worry, this won’t hurt much.

How Mass Plays a Role – WARNING: Math Ahead!

A hammer is a force amplifier that converts mechanical work into kinetic energy and back again. When swinging a hammer, kinetic energy gets stored in the hammer’s head. The kinetic energy equals the length of the swing times the force produced by your muscles (and gravity). When the hammer strikes the nail, the nail stops the head with an equal and opposite force.

Where this gets tricky is when you start to take into consideration the effect of the mass of the hammer’s head. The amount of energy delivered to the nail by the hammer is equal to one-half the mass of the head times the square of the head’s speed at the time of impact. The key here is that the energy delivered to the nail increases linearly with mass but it increases quadratically with the speed.

KE = 1/2 mv²

Let me summarize that for you: An easier-to-swing hammer delivers more energy to the nail. This forms one of the key arguments in the titanium hammers vs steel hammers debate.

Hammer Handles Matter Too

Lightweight hammer heads allow for faster swing velocity, but handle designs can also help the efficiency of your swing. That includes taking into account vibration-absorbing materials, length, and angle. Essentially, to find the best framing hammer, it will have to have a combination of certain head and handle qualities that make it feel “right”.

There are literally hundreds of hammers out there, so for the sake of time and practicality, we tried to limit the playing field to framing hammers whose head weights ranged in the low to mid 20 ounces, had long handles, straight rip claws and milled faces. Both titanium and steel models were acceptable. Our list of hammers is in no way inclusive of all that is available. There are many more manufacturers and models that I did not get a chance to put my hands on yet. Perhaps I’ll have to revisit this after I collect and evaluate all of the hate mail I’m sure to get following this best framing hammer review. (I did mention this was a contentious topic, did I not?)

Measuring and Weighing the Best Framing Hammers

I started out by weighing each hammer. Then I measured the face size using calipers, handle length with a tape measure and set up a grid to make comparing and evaluating the various tools easier. When I measured the face, I didn’t use the outer diameter of the head, but rather the area of the milled surface. In almost every hammer that space is smaller than the head’s full outer diameter. I figured it was more important to know the actual striking area of the hammer as opposed to the full head size.

It is also interesting to note that while some hammers might have a lightweight head, the handles sometimes added back enough weight to counteract any gains achieved in shaving off some extra steel. We point this out because a hammer’s weight is more than just the head. It’s the entire hammer (a number manufacturers do not always prominently advertise).

Manually Testing the Framing Hammers

I tested out each hammer with both bright and galvanized 16 penny (16D) nails. I drove the nails into spruce studs and some pressure-treated 4x4s. Since so much of a hammer’s function is dependent on the skill and technique of the user, extensive testing really is not necessary for the scope of this article. In other words—I didn’t have to drive in thousands of nails before drawing some conclusions.

In fact, I took lots of breaks so that I wouldn’t be swayed by a tired arm or a sore wrist. Perhaps in the future, when time and budget permit, I can develop a piece of scientific equipment to analyze things like striking force, vibration, and swing efficiency. While it would be cool to have statistics on these variables, this is ultimately a subjective topic requiring a subjective review.

Reviewing hammers is just like reviewing trucks. Some Pros are polarized on which brand they like. You can test, re-test, and crown a winning truck of the year (every year). Everyone still has their personal preference on what pickup they want to drive.

Maybe the best hammer test would have all of the participants blindfolded and I could hand them a random hammer to see what they really think. While they wouldn’t be swayed by brands, colors, materials, and logos, it might be one of the more painful tests we’ve ever run!

Value, Features, and Performance

After spending some time with all of the hammers I ended up with this list of what I felt were the best. I based this on their value, features, and overall perception of their performance. Of course, nearly any framing hammer will drive a nail. However, not all of them will do it well. In addition to my beloved “benchmark” Douglas framing hammer, I tested steel and titanium selections from Stiletto, Estwing, DeWalt, Vaughan, and others. I also looked at a cross-section of synthetic, steel, and wood handles.

In the same way that I prefer Ford trucks, I might also display a slight bent towards more traditional hammers. This entire experience remains largely subjective.

While I may prefer particular features, the best test of a hammer is picking one up and taking a swing!

Why You Can Trust Pro Tool Reviews

Ever check out a “review” site and you can’t tell if they actually tested the tools or if they’re just “recommending” the Amazon top sellers? That’s not us. We won’t recommend anything unless we’d actually use it ourselves and we don’t really care who the primary retailer is. It’s all about giving you a legitimate recommendation and our honest opinion of each product.

We’ve been in business since 2008 covering tools, writing reviews, and reporting on industry news in the construction, automotive, and lawn care industries. Our Pro reviewers work in the trades and have the skills and experience to know whether tools can perform well in the field.

Each year, we bring in and review more than 250 individual products. Our team will put our hands on hundreds of additional tools at media events and trade shows throughout the year.

The post Best Framing Hammer for Pros appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

This review started off as a sort of bait and switch. You see, I was asked if I would like to review “a tool belt or two” for Pro Tool Reviews. “Sure, send them over,” I said. Reviewing and choosing the right or best tool belt or tool rig isn’t hard if you’re picking from a few products. After all, I’ve been doing this for decades—I know tool belts!

12 Tool Belts Later…

A week or two later I arrived home to a massive onslaught of boxes on my doorstep. A “tool belt or two” somehow evolved into a dozen tool belts with the promise of more to come. Finding the best tool belt just got a lot more time-intensive.

If you read my articles, you know that I try to bring all of the tools and products I review to the toughest, meanest, and dirtiest testing facility of them all—the jobsite! So how in the world was I going to be able to wear, test, and basically beat the tar out of thirteen tool bags in just a few weeks?

Even if I gave a belt to each of my guys, I just didn’t have the time to wear these belts long enough. We wanted to get a real flavor for how they performed and held up. I decided the best way to approach this was to systematically go through each tool rig and cover important features and accessories. Along the way, my crew and I would test out as many as possible.

The Best Tool Belts and Rigs We Chose

Overall, my team and I looked at over a dozen different tool belts. Since choosing the right tool belt can make or break your day, we looked at a ton of models—including the following:

• AWP Classic Construction Leather Tool Apron (LT-428-2) – $50
• AWP TrapJaw Oil-Tan Leather Tool Rig (L-903-1) – $80
• Bucket Boss Builders Tool Belt (50200) – $50
• Carhartt Legacy Deluxe Tool Belt – $58
• DeWalt 12-Pocket Carpenter’s Suede Apron (DG5372) – $55
• DeWalt Carpenter’s Tool Belt (DG5472) – $80
• Jackson Palmer Professional Comfort-Rig Tool Belt – $44
• Klein One-piece Nail/Screw and Tool-pouch Apron (42242K) – $80
• McGuire-Nicholas 494 Suede Carpenter Apron – $31
• McGuire-Nicholas Oil Tan Apron (767-E) – $48
• Occidental Leather Adjust-to-Fit Tool Belt (9855) – $365
• Style N Craft 98444 19 Pkt Framer’s Combo in Top Grain Leather – $194
• Style N Craft 93414 17 Pocket Pro Framer’s Combo Tool Belt – $192

Best Tool Belt Overall

Occidental Leather Adjust-to-Fit Tool Belt (9855)

After wearing and testing these belts extensively, we picked the Occidental Leather Adjust-to-Fit Tool Belt (9855) as the best tool belt overall. Occidental makes this top-leather tool belt right in the USA. The belt feels already broken in—so you don’t have the deal with any stiffness. All 24 pockets seem perfectly positioned, and I had room for everything I needed to store.

Mind you—if you end up choosing this tool belt, it doesn’t come cheap. Its steep $365 price, however, includes a lifetime repair service (stitch & rivet) for their all-leather carpenter’s tool bags. Try getting that off a cheap tool belt!

Best Carpenters or Contractor Tool Belt

AWP TrapJaw Oil-Tan Leather Tool Rig (L-903-1)

With the Occidental Leather pick above in mind as our top pick, I thought a more practically-priced solution might be good to highlight here. I’ve worked with carpenters and contractors that work out of tool boxes or tool bags. They’re constantly picking up and putting down tools. Not only are these guys constantly looking for tools or having to fetch fasteners, but they also work less efficiently.

While others look and reach for tools—for me, choosing the right tool belt means access. I want my tools right on me in my tool belt at all times. The best carpenters tool belt for keeping the right tools on hand is the AWP HP General Construction Leather Belt Flip Pocket Tool Rig.

Our crew loved the supple bags. They found it perfect for holding just enough tools without being overbearing for carpentry work. It also has you covered with two large rings for hammers. You also get D-rings if you want to use suspenders. The bags slip along the main belt easily as well, so you can reposition them as needed. For professional contractors executing a variety of tasks, this $80 tool belt rocks the job site.

Best Electrician Tool Belt

Klein Tools 42242K Tool Apron

Choosing the right tool belt for electrical work presented some unique requests. Feedback indicated that less is more. You want a place to keep your primary tools handy—but you don’t need 20 pockets and two steel hammer loops. In fact, no hammer loop suited our guys just fine. The best electrician tool belt for keeping your tools and meters close-by has to be the Klein Tools 42242K tool apron. The bags have a nice soft suede feel, so it’s easy to reach inside and grab screws or wire nuts.

You also get plenty of places to store marking tools and NCV detectors. A center steel tape holder is handy. Klein then gives you two large pockets and two small pockets to divvy up your gear. Overall, we think this tool bag holds just enough electrician tools without going overboard. The $80 price won’t break the bank either.

Best Framing Tool Belt

McGuire Nicholas 767-E Contractor’s Apron

Framers need their tools handy, but not too many. When choosing the right tool belt for a framer, you want ample room for key tools. That includes a framing square, hammer, marking tools, nails, tape, and a few other oddities. You also don’t want to break the bank buying a reliable tool belt. We chose the McGuire Nicholas 767-E Contractor’s Apron as our best framing tool belt.

We like that it has steel hammer loops on either side. That also might make it the best tool belt for left-handed people. The tape pouch sits right where we like it, and you don’t have a billion pockets to contend with. You get just enough to carry what you need. The only downside has to do with sizing. Since the belt has hard-riveted pockets that don’t slide, thinner framing pros may end up with an odd fit. Still, you really can’t go wrong with the $48 price.

Most Comfortable Tool Belt

Jackson Palmer Professional Comfort-Rig Tool Belt

This Jackson Palmer tool belt defies you to feel the weight—even when carrying heavier cordless power tools from its integrated tool hooks. This tool belt is our pick for most comfortable due to its incredibly well-built design. From the adjustable padded shoulder straps to the triple rear tethers, it distributes the weight between your waist and back. Iron buckles and reinforced stitching at key stress points just add to the durability.

Jackson Palmer also gives you large detachable pocket organizers with integrated tool compartments for your drivers, pliers, and more. We also like the rear-mounted hammer loop—which keeps that tool out of the way until you need it. This comfortable tool rig might be the best thing for anyone climbing or needing to carry a lot of heavier items. At $44 you almost feel like you’re stealing it!

Best Tool Belt for the Money

DeWalt DG5372 12-pocket Carpenter’s Suede Apron

This $55 suede apron wins hands-down as our pick for the best tool belt for the money. The DeWalt DG5372 12-pocket Carpenter’s Suede Apron features 5 main pockets. It also gives you 7 small pockets and sleeves to handle pencils and similar small items. The belt features dual soft handles above the main pouches. You can use them to easily adjust the belt while wearing it. It also works really well for collapsing and carrying the tool belt around when you move from site to site.

Best Canvas or Nylon Tool Belt

Carhartt Legacy Deluxe Tool Belt

I still feel that polyester and nylon (or even canvas) make the best tool belts for lightweight and simple comfort. Sure, you can get comfortable leather tool belts with shoulder straps and harnesses, however, a polyester or nylon belt just works. The synthetic material weighs less than leather yet it provides similar performance. The Carhartt Legacy Deluxe Tool Belt seems to provide a nice simple solution for anyone looking to save some weight.

This polyester-lined tool bag has nine pockets with a metal hammer loop and steel tape measure holder. You even get two removable pockets. Priced at just over $58, we really like the value this tool belt offers.

What I Carry in My Tool Belt

In my world of residential construction, I can be framing one day and installing kitchen cabinets and crown molding the next. I tend to load up my tool belt/bag based solely on the daily tasks at hand. Even with the varied applications, a few “permanent” tools reside within my tool belts. These are tools that have proven their worth over time, and each has a dedicated and very specific spot. The best tool belt you can find is one that holds every tool you need.

• My best framing hammer
• Stanley Fatmax (which I consider the best tape measure)
• Wooden folding ruler
• 2 nail sets
• Chalk line
• Swanson aluminum speed square
• Small combo pry bar/nail puller
• End cutters
• Needle nose pliers
• Torpedo level
• Scribes
• 2-3 carpenter pencils
• 2 fixed-blade utility knives
• LED flashlight
• Multi-bit screwdriver

Building Muscle Memory and Good Habits

Over time, repetition has trained me to develop the habit of being able to access and stow these tools in my belts without looking for the pocket. Call it muscle memory, but it’s a huge time-saver when you’re working or focusing on a task. You don’t have to stop what you’re doing to look in your belt to remove or stow a tool. Build good habits and you can speed up your work over time.

I wear a tool belt most of the time. While there are situations where a tool belt is neither feasible nor warranted for the situation, those times are few and far between. Wearing a tool belt for me equates to being efficient and methodical. It means having the necessary tools on my person to complete the task.

Don’t Baby Your Tool Belt or Tool Bag

I’m also really rough on my tool belts. Over time, my bags and belts usually fail at the tool pockets. This might be due to my insisting on stowing and using two fixed, open utility knives and a super sharp chisel. I’m a bit old-school on the utility knives. I prefer the speed of not having to operate a switch to open them. (Don’t tell OSHA!) I’ve even gone so far as to customize my knife and chisel pockets with pieces cut out of plastic bottles to reduce damage to the bottom. Don’t knock it—it works!

How We Go About Choosing the Right Tool Belt

Choosing the right tool belt requires more than one opinion. To solve this, I called an emergency session with my crew. I told them to bring their best tool belts, grab a coffee, and meet me at the shop. Some likely thought they were getting pink slips!

Once in the shop we sat down, loaded up each tool belt with our own “permanent resident” tools, and tried them on. We looked at each and every tool belt and discussed them based on their pros and cons. It was actually a lot of fun.

I encouraged everyone to load up tools and fasteners, actually wear the tool belts, and comment. We decided to look at each rig individually and talk them up…and down. This helped to avoid comparing them with one another right off the bat, which was tough to do. That being said, it didn’t take long before we were all choosing the right tool belt for ourselves!

When choosing the right tool belt, we looked at and discussed the following:

• Fit and finish
• Durability
• Quality (material, seams, stitching, and rivets)
• Customization
• Belt and buckle adjustability, material, and comfort
• Pockets and tool holders, capacity, ambidextrous use, fixed or adjustable
• Number of pockets, size, and usefulness
• Hammer holders and locations
• Which trade would best utilize the belt
• Price and value

Tool Belt Durability, Fit and Finish

There is a lot that goes into a good quality tool belt: material, seams, stitching, and rivets. Then you have the belt and buckle adjustability, material, and comfort. Also, some belts come in various sizes, while others claim to be “one-size-fits-all”. If your waistline is less than 34-inches you may have some difficulty with many of the single-size belts. They seem to always make the assumption that the average construction worker is, well, slightly above average in the middle.

When choosing the right tool belt for their neds, my crew agreed that oil-tanned leather tool belt rigs had the highest build quality. All of these style rigs were well-made. Some, like those from Style N Craft, AWP, and Occidental Leather have beefy rivets, excellent padding, and real thick leather belts. Others even included built-in loops for suspenders and handles for carrying or hanging up the belt when not in use.

A majority of the guys on my crew thought the oil-tanned leather belts with “fixed” bags had a disadvantage. These tool belts had the potential to become uncomfortable. They also severely limited your ability to individually customize them. Less adjustability typically meant less capacity for stowing smaller tools and fasteners. We surmised that these belts were designed and set up for a framer who carries and stores minimal tools, but who may load up on fasteners.

What About Nylon, Polyester, and Canvas Tool Bags?

I was the only standout who preferred a canvas, polyester, or nylon-style belt for its lightweight comfort. Even with a majority voting against me, I held my ground. I’m the oldest of the group and the only one, so far, with lower back issues. I tend to gravitate to lightweight nylon rigs for obvious reasons.

But you can also find high-quality nylon or polyester tool belts and rigs. I suggest that if you’re considering one, look at the thickness of the material. You also want to examine the stitching (Is it single or double?) and note any features that allow for customization. That might be handles, a padded belt, suspender loops, or hammer and tape holders.

Remember, you will likely wear your best tool belt on a regular basis. It needs to competently hold all of the tools you regularly use. Go with a high-quality, durable product that can take all the abuse that comes along with the territory—regardless of whether it’s made of leather or synthetic materials.

Not All Leather is the Same

Some of the leather tool belts we reviewed from Klein, AWP, and McGuire-Nichols all reminded me of my first tool belt. Unfortunately, that one didn’t last me that long due to pocket blowouts. Each of these tool belts uses soft (almost suede) leather with heavy rivets and mostly double stitching. We felt these belts were beefy enough to be called jobsite worthy, but most of the crew tended to lean toward the heavier leather models.

Belts, in general, also varied considerably. Both AWP belts featured top grain leather pouches, but the belts were two-ply, sewn together. This style of belt isn’t likely to hold up nearly as long as the thicker full-grain leather belts made by McGuire-Nicholas. Some of the belts using this style of construction also looked to be made of bonded leather. Bonded leather is stiffer and not nearly as durable. The best tool belt of all the models we tested had to be the Occidental Leather 9855. We also liked options from Style & Craft. Both appeared to use thick, pliable saddle leather.

Comfort and Fit

In addition to the material used in the belt, which varied from nylon to bonded leather to saddle leather, all of the models featured sturdy buckles. While a large metal belt buckle is durable, it’s also had the potential to dig into your belly when leaning over. Worse, it might scratch a finished surface. We all tended to lean toward the tool belts which let the wearer either spin the buckle to the rear or slide it behind one of the two attached tool bags.

The rivets on most of the belts were fairly low profile. There were no other sharp edges with the exception of the hammer loops and combo square holders.

The oil-tanned leather rigs were well-constructed and designed for the long haul, but they were also fairly heavy. Their main bag compartments, however, tend to stay wide open and thus maintain their shape—a plus when wearing gloves.

The soft leather bags have “low profile” main compartments that lay flat and can be adjusted by sliding them over the belt. In fact, many of the tool belts let you slide around the main compartments. This provides a huge advantage when you want to adjust the rig by sliding a bag off of your hip into the most comfortable position possible. Of all of the features, this one was almost a requirement!

Customization, Capacity, and Those Damn Lefties!

One consideration you need to keep in mind when trying to choose the best tool belt (or the right tool belt for your trade) is choosing one that offers you plenty of space to carry exactly what you need. Trust me, there are enough tool belts out there. In fact, even if you don’t like a particular belt from a manufacturer, chances are, they make another model that will be much more to your liking.

It’s important that your tool belt has room for all the essential tools you use regularly. A major disappointment was trying on a tool belt that didn’t offer a single pencil or marker holder. I’m sure you could store a half dozen markers in a larger pocket, but every trade uses marking tools. This was important enough to want a dedicated pocket located front and center on both the left and right belts.

Quantity Matters!

If you’re like me, quantity matters, so look for a belt that has plenty of pockets and compartments. That way you can make sure all your favorite tools can be easily carried around with you. Balance the capacity with weight. If the belt is too heavy or too bulky to wear, you won’t use it. That really means you’ve wasted your money. You want to choose a system that offers great organization so it makes the most of all the space. This will make it easier for you to wear the tool belt on a regular basis.

Personally, I really gravitate toward a belt that offers individual tool holders inside the main compartment. Only two tool belts offered this option: the Klein Tradesman Pro and the AWP 1L-903. The others just had large main compartments where tools tend to settle to the bottom in a cluster. I like organization and want them separated for easy access.

Customization is Key

Customization of the tool belts was also an important topic and one that resonated with my lead carpenter. He’s a lefty and prefers tool bags that offer access from either side. Ambidextrous rigs are simply a great idea and a lot of tool belt manufacturers seem to be going this route for a more universal appeal.

Permanently fixed bags like some from AWP, the Klein 42242, and all of the DeWalt and McGuire-Nicholas rigs seemed to be very restrictive and tended to limit the bags to a particular application or body shape. I also shy away from fancy hinged metal hammer holders as they seem somewhat fragile for the long haul. A simple metal or leather hammer loop is preferable—something my entire team agreed on.

Some tool rigs offer a tape holder in the front with a strap to lock the tape measure in place – I always find this annoying and cut these straps off. It mostly gets in the way—usually when I’m trying to “re-holster” the tape. If you end up in positions where your tape could frequently fall out, then you might want to experiment with the straps.

Matching the Trade With the Belt

We all agreed that these rigs would be good for the carpenter. However, with all of the belts we looked at, it really depends on the scope of your job and your working style. The lightweight, lighter leather and low-profile belts seem to be a great fit for trim carpenters, painters, and guys doing punch lists. The Klein was clearly designed and laid out for electricians but is really a nice belt for just about anyone.

Cinching It All Up

Choosing a tool bag is like choosing a girlfriend or buying a car. I would be very conceited to pick out yours, and I certainly would not want you to choose mine…We’re still talking about girlfriends, right? There are nearly endless factors for deciding to go with one tool belt rig over another. My personal decision emphasized low weight and having lots of dedicated pockets. I also wanted the ability to customize and orient the accessories within the bags.

I started out my career using a soft leather tool belt (it was inexpensive). Later, I gravitated towards choosing a heavier leather tool belt rig. Recently, however, I hung it all up for a lightweight nylon-style rig with a padded belt. I find the padding helps spread out and distribute the weight in a way that’s better for my aging (and some days, aching) back.

So what do I consider to be the ultimate tool rig? I’d like to combine the weight and capacity of the Bucket Boss rig with the comfort and evenly-distributed weight support that the Klein Tradesman Pro padded belt. Then, I’d want to somehow work in the longevity and durability of those very cool oil-tanned rigs. I’d be in heaven!

Comments from the Peanut Gallery

Following are some quotes we received from actual tradesmen regarding various tool belts we gave them to try out. These may influence you more than what we wrote above!

“I like the all-leather tool belts for comfort and durability. They have the right size pouches for nails, making it easy to grab a handful—even with a glove on. There’s also a place for my tape, a square, and a metal loop for a hammer. I’ve had mine over 20 years, and while I have been given new ones for Christmas or my birthday, I always go back to my old leather friend.”

“I’ve been a carpenter for 38 years. I started with a cloth apron, but it couldn’t carry enough tools, so I went with a leather rig with the tape measure in the front. It was heavy, but it worked fine except on humid days on the roof. Boy, you can experience lots of sweating! For the last 10 or 12 years, I’ve been using the canvas type. Light, no sweat, and the pouches are able to slide along the heavy-duty belt. I also like the ability to place the hammer holder in the back where it doesn’t whack me in the back of my knee with every step.”

“I need a quality belt that evenly disperses weight, so I currently run with the Occidental Leather Pro Leather Framer bags. This belt fits my needs perfectly, and I feel lost if I’m working without it.”

Comfort & Practicality

“Comfort and practicality are most important. You have to have good suspenders that don’t rub and that take the weight off the hips. It also has to be practical so that you can support and carry a wide variety of tools without it being one big jumbled mess.”

“I think choosing the right bag really depends on what type of work you do. Each job could really use its own setup. For that, you need customization and floating bags that move along the belt. Take an impact driver, for example. That’s a tough tool to carry, and some manufacturers like McGuire-Nicholas, AWP, and Style N Craft provide a solution that.”

It’s the Weight!

“Weight is the biggest issue for me. I find myself using my suspenders for a couple of months. Then, when my shoulders get sore, I take them off for a couple of months until my hips and lower back start to feel it. Rinse, repeat. When I first started building, I used to load up my tool bags and fill up every pocket available with chisels screwdrivers, etc. I started out with affordable nylon bags, but I would go through them every couple of years. They just seem to fall apart and don’t age very well. 

Eventually, I went big and purchased a true leather rig for the long haul. I’ve had mine for eight years, and during that time I’ve also learned to work smarter. Now, I fill it with just the tools I need for the job. Weight is still a concern, and I’ve been trying to trade in my heavier metal tools for equivalent plastic, aluminum, and titanium models.”

Why You Can Trust Pro Tool Reviews

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We’ve been in business since 2008 covering tools, writing reviews, and reporting on industry news in the construction, automotive, and lawn care industries. Our Pro reviewers work in the trades and have the skills and experience to know whether tools can perform well in the field.

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The post Best Tool Belt Reviews 2022 appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

In Our Search for the Best Cordless Jigsaw, We Discover Several Great Options

While some folks think of jigsaws only as woodworking tools, they’re versatile tools that find their way onto almost every contractor’s jobsite at some point. Choosing the best cordless jigsaw is about more than just the convenience of no cord. They’re just as strong as corded models and some have incredibly rich feature sets.

Best Cordless Jigsaw Overall

DeWalt 20V Max XR Jigsaw

Whether you want a top handle or barrel grip style, we picked the DeWalt 20V Max XR as the best cordless jigsaw overall. Its cutting speed wasn’t as fast as some of the others, but its vibration control was better, and it kept the blade deflection down to nothing on tough cuts. For the top handle model, the lower height gave us a feeling of better control.

With both versions, the controls seem well-placed and easy to reach without having to move your grip. This was especially noticeable on the barrel grip where many of our testing team’s hands couldn’t reach the on/off switch on other models. While there are a couple of trade-offs to consider, DeWalt gave us the best overall cutting experience.

Price: $199 bare, $349 kit with 5.0Ah battery

Best Cordless Jigsaw Cutting Speed

Milwaukee M18 Fuel Jigsaw

Not everyone needs to cut through 2x and other thick materials, so the fastest speed isn’t always a high priority. However, there are several that make quick cuts, and Milwaukee showed us the greatest cutting speed. Keep in mind you need to engage orbital action to get the fastest cuts, and that’s going to leave you with a rougher edge. Even with orbital off, Milwaukee’s 3500 SPM and brushless motor make cutting in any material faster.

Price: $199 bare, $239 kit with 5.0Ah battery

Best Cordless Jigsaw Accuracy and Control

Makita 18V LXT Jigsaw

To get the best accuracy and control, you need a combination of line of sight (a dust blower really helps), tracking, and deflection control. Good vibration control is also a big help to keep your hands from getting tired. No other saw did this as well as Makita in our testing, with both the top handle and barrel grip designs excelling.

Price: $289 bare

Best Cordless Jigsaw Vibration Control

Hilti Nuron 22V Cordless Jigsaw

Hilti’s Nuron cordless jigsaw includes AVR (Active Vibration Reduction) and put on a clinic for what vibration control can be. Its top speed of 3,000 SPM is a little lower than some and it’s using a brushless motor. However, that AVR tech makes Hilti a smooth operator.

Price: $234 bare tool

Best Cordless Jigsaw Value

Skil PWRCore 20 Brushless Jigsaw

There aren’t many jigsaw kits running around, making it a little more expensive to get into cordless jigsawing if you don’t already have the requisite battery and charger. That helps the Skil PWRCore 20 Brushless Jigsaw kit come across as a solid value at $169 since it includes a 2.0Ah battery and PWRJump fast charger.

It’s not a barebones kind of value, though. In addition to its brushless motor, it adds a tool-free bevel adjustment and unique push-up blade release that’s easier than other shaft-mounted designs. This is one of the saws you need to cut a little slower with to get the highest-quality results. That’s a pretty easy trade-off to make for the cost savings in our opinion.

Price: $169 with 4.0Ah battery

Best Budget Cordless Jigsaw

Hart 20V Orbital Jigsaw

At just $64 for the bare tool and $89 for the kit with a 1.5 Ah battery and a charger, there’s no better way to get started with cordless jigsawing on a budget than with Hart’s 20V jigsaw. With selectable orbital action, a variable speed slider, a lock-on button, and more, it has a surprisingly rich feature set for its price.

Even better, at the time we’re writing this, you can get the jigsaw, two 4.0Ah batteries, and a charger for just $99!

Price: $64 bare. $89 with 1.5Ah battery

Best Cordless Jigsaw Blades

Cut quality comes down to the blade—so we wanted to start there. You have a lot of choices when it comes to choosing the best jigsaw blades. We consistently turn to Bosch thanks to its deep history of both jigsaw and blade development. They have a full range of standard and specialty blades to cover just about anything you might ask your jigsaw to do. For an excellent general-purpose set, check out Bosch’s 10-piece wood and metal blade set (T5002).

• 11–14 TPI basic metal cutting blades (2)
• 17–24 TPI basic metal cutting blades (2)
• 12 TPI basic scrolling blades (2)
• 10 TPI clean wood cutting blades (2)
• 5–6 TPI fast wood cutting blades (2)

Price: $13.99

Best Cordless Jigsaw From More Brands We Trust

Best Bosch Cordless Jigsaw: 18V JSH180B

Bosch’s cordless jigsaw is a little slower in cutting speed than the others, but this is a smooth operator. Its vibration control is excellent, and we like that it has a lower height for a top handle saw that gives us a better feeling of control. There aren’t a lot of bells and whistles to this one. Overall, it feels well-built, and its $159 price tag is very reasonable for a Pro-level model.

Price: $159 bare

Best Hart Cordless Jigsaw: 20V HPJS01

HART now has a brushless jigsaw as part of its 20V lineup and it takes things a step further than its brushed counterpart. It boasts 3350 SPM on the top end with a full 1-inch stroke length. It has a nice feature set to go with it, including three orbital modes, a variable speed dial, tool-free bevel adjustments, a lock-on switch, and more.

Price: $128 bare

Best Flex Cordless Jigsaw: 24V Brushless FX2231-Z/FX2221-Z

Flex has one of the fastest cutting cordless jigsaws with a 3500 SPM stroke rate. It departs from traditional variable speed dials with 4 electronic speeds and an effective automatic mode. It also has a button to turn off the LED light if you’d rather not use it. The only big feature they left off was tool-free bevel changes.

The barrel grip version’s design is ergonomically better than most thanks to an on/off switch that’s easily reachable without taking your hand off of the tool.

If you register your tools, chargers, and batteries by 12/31/22, you’ll get a lifetime warranty on all of them.

Price: $199 bare, $358 with 2.5Ah battery

Best Kobalt Cordless Jigsaw: 24V Max Brushless KJS 324B-03

Kobalt is a solid value pick with a design that competes with some of the best Pro models at a much lower price. It has a brushless motor, blade release lever, tool-free bevel adjustments, selectable cutline blower, and 3+1 orbital selection. You really only miss out on dust collection and a variable speed dial. At $129 for the bare tool and one of the more affordable battery programs available, it’s a compelling choice for value shoppers, though it doesn’t have a kit option for folks that are new to the system.

Best Metabo HPT Cordless Jigsaw: 36V MultiVolt CJ36DAQ4

Sadly, Metabo HPT has discontinued its 36V MultiVolt jigsaw. Aside from its excellent performance, variable speed dial, and an automatic mode that worked better than most, it was also the only cordless model that had an AC adapter option.

Price: Discontinued

Best Ridgid Cordless Jigsaw: 18V Octane Brushless R8832B

Ridgid’s Octane Jigsaw is another high-value pick with the most complete feature set of all the saws we tested. It carries a svelt $149 price tag for the bare tool. The design team simply didn’t leave anything off of the saw. It has tool-free bevel adjustments, a selectable cutline blower, blade release lever, variable speed dial and trigger (including an off mode), lock-on button, 3+1 orbital selection, and shoe cover. It even offers dust collection and a separate button to kick the LED light on and off.

You need to cut a little slower to control deflection in thick or hard materials, and it’s not as fast or smooth as some of the others. It’s still capable of leaving you with Pro-quality results, though. Also—don’t forget that Lifetime Service Agreement if you register the tool.

Note that Ridgid has been replacing the Octane tools with a new brushless line. We haven’t seen an updated jigsaw yet, but we’d bet there’s one coming.

Price:

Best Ryobi Cordless Jigsaw: 18V One+ HP Brushless PBLJS01B

When Ryobi gave its cordless jigsaw the 18V One+ HP Brushless upgrade, it improved the rest of the features along with it. In addition to a new brushless motor, it now has tool-free bevel adjustments, a blade release lever, and a shoe cover. All that comes with a price increase, however. You can still find the previous model for around $69 as an excellent choice for beginners. The 18V One+ HP Brushless model—our pick—is a better bet for more serious users at $129.

Price: $129 bare, $159 with 2.0Ah High Performance battery

What is a Jigsaw Used For?

A jigsaw uses an up-and-down reciprocating motion to saw through wood, metal, PVC, and other materials. Primarily a woodcutting tool, it uses a narrower blade that gives you the ability to cut curves better than other types of saws. It’s also useful for completing cuts into corners thanks to a straight-blade design.

Contractors often use them for cutting out countertops for sinks or cutting out drywall if they don’t have an oscillating multi-tool or drywall cutout tool. With those cutouts, you often drill a hole inside your waste area large enough for the jigsaw blade to fit, making the start of your cut easier.

There are plenty of other ways to cut with a jigsaw, and these are just the main ways we use them. Any other ideas? Feel free to share them in the comments below!

Top Handle vs Barrel Grip Jigsaw

At the risk of starting an argument over top handle vs barrel grip jigsaw designs, here’s the skinny: it mainly boils down to personal preference. Shocking, we know!

We prefer top handle jigsaws when we’re cutting with one hand. If you’re in a situation where you can’t clamp your material securely, it’s a big help. When cutting with two hands, your second hand simply moves to the front pommel of the saw.

Some people feel they have better control with a barrel grip. It puts your hand in a lower position and your second hand can rest on the front or top of the saw.

Hand size can come into play as well. Guys and gals with smaller hands tend to prefer a top handle in our experience. However, 12V barrel grip jigsaws have a narrow enough grip area that even those folks can enjoy using them.

Regionally, the US tends to be in favor of top handle models, and that’s what every brand we tested makes. However, the following brands offer both:

• Flex
• Bosch
• DeWalt
• Makita
• Milwaukee
• Skil (12V only)

Cordless Jigsaw Buying Guide | What We Look For

Performance

Any jigsaw worth buying has to be able to effectively cut what you work on. If you custom-build stair stringers, your saw better be able to cut 2x well. As a woodworker, you need to cut hardwoods without burning them. Having selectable speed or at least a variable-speed trigger can help quite a bit.

Brushless motors help with both cutting performance and runtime. It’s not as critical as it is in some power tools, but it’s a nice boost to have.

Also, look for a selectable orbital action. It increases the aggressiveness of the blade’s attack with an elliptical motion and cuts more quickly. The trade-off is a rougher cut.

One quick note about automatic speed control—this feature takes some time to get used to, and some of our team flat-out refuse to use it. However, those who do really like the consistency of its start and performance through the cut. Kicking in with a soft start, it ramps up the speed based on the pressure you put into the cut.

Accuracy, Control, and Deflection

Because a jigsaw’s primary job is cutting curves, control is important. A big part of that is the design of the saw and how it fits in your hand. Another part of it is using a quality blade that’s the correct size for the curves you’re cutting.

Keep an eye on the blade itself. The saw needs to keep it running straight up and down to control deflection and drifting. Most models have a guide behind the blade, but we’ve used some jigsaws that allow the blade to pop out of it easily and take your cut off-course.

All of the jigsaws we recommend are capable of cutting 2x material with no deflection. However, you need to slow down with some of them. DeWalt, Flex, Makita, and Milwaukee all handle faster cutting with no or minimal deflection better than the others.

Keep in mind how close the front of the shoe gets to the blade as well. When those edges creep in closer, you can get both sides of the shoe to stabilize on your material when you need to make thinner cuts.

Visibility

You can have the best control possible, but it won’t mean diddly if you can’t see your blade contact your cutline. Most jigsaws do a great job of keeping the blade area clear enough to see. LED lights and a cutline blower drastically improve your visibility.

Vibration

Once you have performance, control, and visibility down, you can narrow your choices by selecting ones that have lower vibration. Your hands will thank you and you’ll feel like you’re fighting the saw less when the operation is smoother.

Price and Value

Of course, the price has a huge bearing on your choice and we all want to stay on budget. What the tool offers for the money is a large chunk of the value. Keep in mind the warranty and if the line has all of the other tools you might want to add to your collection down the road. Take a look at the jigsaw that’s available on the battery platform you already have first. You may be able to save a chunk by getting the bare tool.

Features That Can Make Using a Jigsaw Easier

• Selectable orbital action
• Variable speed selection
• Automatic speed control
• Soft start
• Cutline blower
• LED lights
• Dust collection adapter
• Tool-free bevel adjustments (or onboard tool storage if it’s not tool-free)
• Housing-mounted blade release lever
• No-mar base plate cover
• Lock-on switch (standard on most barrel grip saws)

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The post Best Cordless Jigsaw Reviews 2022 appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Deckbuilding and miters saws are a perfect match-up of a tool to a project. When I was approached about doing a comparative best 12-inch compound miter saw review I couldn’t think of better timing. Finding the best 12-inch miter saw requires testing many different tools at once. My comparison review coincided with a renovation of two side-by-side 1920’s bungalow-style homes. Both feature full-width front and back porches and all four had seen better times. The project required complete demolition and rebuilding. Between that and the eventual trim-out—I had LOTS of cutting in my future!

My new porch design for these homes departed slightly from the original framing. That consisted primarily of 2×6 members with tongue and groove porch flooring. To meet the current Florida hurricane codes, I had to beef things up slightly. I chose 2×8 framing members and larger timbers for the columns and railing posts. Needless to say, I had plenty of cutting planned for these seven saws.

Editor’s Note: Check out our best miter saw article for our top overall recommendations.

Best 12″ Corded Miter Saw

Bosch GCM12SD Axial Glide Miter Saw

• Pros: Compact size, Integrated expanding table extensions, Easy access side bevel level
• Cons: Clunky thumb-activated trigger safety, No crown bevel detent

The Bosch GCM12SD Axial Glide miter saw has a lot of great features that make it an easy top pick. The axial glide mechanism makes these the smoothest gliding miter saws we’ve ever used. Even years after its initial launch, we still haven’t used a smoother saw. For something close, check out the 10-inch Delta Cruzer miter saw.

The 12-inch Bosch Axial Glide saw cuts in a more compact manner than most, yet it allows some of the tallest cuts. You can burrow right through 6-1/2″ tall material held up against the fence.

We love the front-mounted bevel adjustments—among the easiest to set in the industry. They don’t force you to reach behind the saw. We also really like the integrated table extensions that expand easily out of the base from both sides.

This saw runs about $599.

Buy Now at Acme Tools

Buy Now at Amazon

Also recommended:

• Milwaukee 6955-20 Miter Saw with LED Angle Gauge
• Skilsaw SPT88-01 worm drive miter saw
• DeWalt DWS716XPS 15-amp miter saw

You can’t talk about 12-inch corded miter saws without recognizing the Milwaukee 6955-20 miter saw. With its incredible power and handy LCD angle display, this saw distinguishes itself as the “Cadillac” among corded miter saws. While the basic design remains little changed over the past decade or so—there’s a good reason. You don’t mess with something already so well-developed. If you can afford it, this saw will transform your shop space. Just don’t expect to move it around easily without mounting it to a good wheeled stand.

This excellent saw retails for $749.

We also like the Skilsaw worm drive miter saw. It’s a powerful, accurate saw that also moves around the job site easily. So easily, in fact, that other manufacturers should take note. This miter saw works really well as a framer’s saw or for remodelers—mostly due to the power output and size. Trim carpenters and fine woodworkers should also factor in a high-TPI blade upgrade right from the start.

You can pick it up for $650.

Finally, the DeWalt DWS716XPS also remains one of our stalwart favorites with its solid build quality. We also love the LED cutline that works in broad daylight. You’ll never want to use a laser again. Handles both 6-1/2 in. of base molding vertically and 6-5/8 in. of crown molding vertically nested.

Grab it for $380.

Best 12″ Cordless Miter Saw

Makita XSL07PT Cordless Miter Saw (also XSL08PT)

• Pros: Front bevel controls, against-the-wall placement, excellent run-time, zero blade wobble
• Cons: Expensive, cutting standing crown with a left bevel requires fence removal

The Makita XSL07PT cordless 12-inch miter saw runs off a pair of 18V batteries for 36V power. This flagship cordless 12-inch compound sliding miter saw helped us run through cuts on trim and framing material like butter. For all its capacity and size, the tool takes is remarkably portable and compares well against its competition.

The saw exhibits absolutely no blade wobble, giving us perfectly consistent cuts every time. We found we could cut 5-1/4″ speed base upright at 45 degrees in either direction. You get convenient front bevel adjustments and the saw miters to 60º in both directions.

The innovative rail design allows placement of the saw up against the wall without the complexity of a Glide system. Lastly—and perhaps most importantly—we cut an entire day’s worth of crown and base off one pair of 5Ah batteries!

This saw retails for around $999 for the XSL07PT kit with two 5.0Ah batteries, dual port rapid charger, blade, dust bag, vertical clamp, wrench, and triangle. If you want the XSL08PT model with AWS-capable wireless Bluetooth connectivity, it runs $1,059.

Buy Now at Acme Tools

Buy Now at Amazon

Also recommended:

• Milwaukee cordless 12-inch sliding miter saw with One-Key
• DeWalt FlexVolt DHS790AT2 miter saw

For a full-size cordless miter saw, the Milwaukee M18 Fuel cordless 12-inch sliding miter saw does well. At just 48 pounds with the M18 High Output 12 Ah battery pack installed, it’s 26% lighter than their corded Milwaukee 6955-20 miter saw. The easy-to-grab side handles make this full-size saw as portable as possible. And it cuts like a corded saw.

You can pick it up for $849 as a kit or $699 as a bare tool.

Of course, if you occasionally need a corded connection, it’s hard not to love the DeWalt FlexVolt DHS790AT2 miter saw. Built on the flagship DWS780 platform, this is one of the only 12-inch cordless miter saws with an available power adapter to let you run it indefinitely on AC power.

The kit with batteries and an AC adapter costs just $799.

Best Portable 12″ Miter Saw

Makita LS1221 Miter Saw

• Pros: Lightweight, Easiest trigger safety to use, Almost no plastic, table extensions, material clamp
• Cons: Short material cut height against the fence, small dust collection port, No crown bevel detent

The Makita LS1221 came in as the lightest saw in our round-up. Ironically, it also had the least amount of plastic parts—figure that one out! Put it all together, and the Makita LS1221 easily qualifies as our best portable 12-inch miter recommendation.

Don’t let the lightweight fool you into thinking that this saw lacks features or power, however. This saw has a gear reduced direct-drive motor which makes it by default a single bevel saw. Every bit of the saw is either painted or has a nice machined finish. There were no unfinished or sharp edges hidden anywhere. The overall build quality of this saw feels like a Swiss watch.

Unlike all the other saws in the review, the swing arm that activates the blade guard is almost completely hidden which makes for a tidy appearance. We really appreciate the dual table extensions that remove easily. You also get a material clamp. Also, every user-removable or adjustable item can adjust using the same included wrench!

This saw retails for around $300 and includes the saw, 12 in. 40-tooth blade, vertical vise, (2) extension wings, socket wrench, and dust bag.

Buy Now at Acme Tools

Buy on Amazon

Also recommended:

• Skilsaw SPT88-01 12-inch Worm Drive Miter Saw

51 pounds may not seem like the ultimate in portability, but given the power of the Skilsaw SPT88-01 12-inch worm drive miter saw, it’s super-light. Also one of our favorite corded models, we love the power and accuracy of this saw. For framing or carpentry, we find the power and size almost perfectly balanced.

You can pick it up for $650.

Best 12″ Miter Saw for the Money

DeWalt DW716 Miter Saw

• Pros: Quiet, Tons of miter and bevel detents, removable fence allows for cutting up to 2×10
• Cons: No material clamp included, Blade guard can slice your thumb (read the manual)

Due to its power and unbelievable capacity, the DeWalt DW716 set itself apart as our recommendation for the best 12″ miter saw for the money.

We quickly identified the DeWalt as the quietest 12-inch miter saw in the bunch. Its refined belt drive system plays the largest part in making that possible. The saw bevels up to 48° in both directions with five common detents. We liked the speedy miter lever lock and the 11 stops (more than all the other saws we tested).

The DeWalt DW716 started out accurate right out of the box. Probably our biggest gripe is that if you hold your thumb to the side of the handle, rather than down, you can expect the blade guard to swing up and potentially grab your thumb as you move the saw towards your workpiece. Of course, this only happens once before you learn how DeWalt intended you to hold the handle. In the manual, it explains that this is by design (not the thumb slicing part!). You can use your thumb to position the guard for certain cuts when you need to hold the guard out of the way.

Remove the main fence, and you can use the remaining smaller fence with a 1-1/2″ thick sacrificial board. That bumps up your crosscut capacity to an astounding 2×10. Remember, this saw lacks a slide! This alone makes it one of our favorites. If you pick up this saw, we suggest you spring for the excellent DWX726 stand as well.

This saw retails for around $299 and includes the saw, 12 in. 40-tooth blade, vertical vise, (2) extension wings, socket wrench, and dust bag.

Buy Now at Amazon

Buy Now at Acme Tools

Also recommended:

• Skilsaw SPT88-01 12-inch Worm Drive Miter Saw

51 pounds may not seem like the ultimate in portability, but given the power of the Skilsaw SPT88-01 12-inch worm drive miter saw, it’s super-light. Also one of our favorite corded models, we love the power and accuracy of this saw. For framing or carpentry, we find the power and size almost perfectly balanced.

You can pick it up for $650.

Best Budget 12″ Cordless Miter Saw

Ryobi TSS121 12 in. Sliding Miter Saw with LED

• Pros: Low cost of entry, tons of clearance for up to a 13-1/4 in. crosscut, electric brake
• Cons: Single bevel, average dust collection

For the serious DIYer, we find it hard not to like a 15-amp sliding miter saw for $269. You get all the clearances of a 12-inch miter, but for the price of a 10-inch model. On the slide, you get plenty of room to cut through 2×12 boards at 90-degrees. An LED cutline indicator and work-light help improve cut accuracy and visibility.

The saw miters 47° left and right with stops at the most common crown molding angles 0°, 15°, 22.5°, 31.6°, and 45° both left and right. There’s also the expected miter detent override.

The 1-1/4 in. dust port works OK, but this won’t collect as much dust as other saws we’ve used. Lastly, we do appreciate the electric brake which stops the blade quickly and you can’t go wrong with a 3-year warranty.

Buy Now at Home Depot

Also recommended:

• DeWalt DWS715 12-inch single-bevel miter saw ($229)
• Metabo HPT C12FDHM 12-in dual-bevel compound miter saw ($179)
• Ridgid R4222 dual-bevel sliding miter saw ($399)

Common Features

Of the dozen or so saws we considered and tested for these recommendations, certain features remain common throughout. These should be the minimum standard of what to look for when shopping. All the saws have 15-amp motors, electric motor brakes, top-mounted carry handles, adjustable fences, and dust collection bags.

Each of the saws came with a carbide-tipped blade that ranged from 30 to 60 teeth. For adjustments, all the saws are able to offer left and/or right miter cuts past 45 degrees. Also, as a minimum, all could do left-hand bevel cuts up to 45 degrees.

Not every manufacture offers both single and dual bevel capabilities, and not every user requires both (though we generally prefer dual-bevel). Finally, all saws tested provide preset miter and bevel angles—typically with stops. Most have at least 9 positions of built-in miter stops with a dedent at 0 degrees and detents in both directions at 15, 22.5, 31.6, and 45 degrees. Bevel stops typically have detents at 0 and 45 degrees.

Testing Preparation

As the saws came in, we carefully opened each box and inspected the tools. When checking out a brand new saw, one of the first things we do is to verify how true the blade is to the table and fence. We had to adjust the squareness of two of the saws that came in. Everyone should learn to how to calibrate a miter saw rather than trust they arrived from the manufacturer dead-square.

To further even the playing field we removed the factory-installed blades and replaced each with brand new blades. We alternated using blades from both Irwin Marples and Diablo depending upon the test and cut. Both blades feature thin kerf ATB (Alternate Top Bevel) ground carbide teeth. With each saw cutting with the same new blade, it made it easier to compare performance.

Testing 12-inch Miter Saws

90 Degree Cut Capacity Testing

Testing seven saws is not something that happens all at once or in a very fast way. These are large tools, and it takes a while to get to know the features of each tool. Thankfully we had a reasonable amount of time to use the saws on multiple occasions. We tested both in the shop and out in the field on one of our four porch projects.

In testing, one of the first things that come to mind with a miter saw is how big a piece of wood will it cut. Given the blade size, you would think that all the saws would have about the same cut capacity, but given the geometry of the blade axis, the fence, and the swing arm design there is some room for differences. The best 12″ compound miter saws will slice through 2×8 lumber with no problem, but some models will exceed even that by a small margin. 12-inch sliding miter saws should easily clear a 2×12.

Cutting Lumber

First, we tried different size pieces of nominal sized lumber at a 90-degree cross-cut and it pretty much boiled down to a pass/fail on if the saw could handle it when it came to nominal sized material like 2×4, 4×4, 2×6, 2×8, and 1x material from 4 through 8 inches. Of course, each saw was able to handle any of these materials. We tested the widest and thickest pieces that could be cut laying flat on the table.

In our deck building, we largely used these saws for cutting the 2×8 framing members to length and trimming the 5/4”x6” deck boards. Since each saw had the same blade and essentially the same size 15-amp motor, we never experienced any instances where the motors bogged down or seemed stressed, even when cutting new, wet pressure-treated wood.

Angled Cut Capacity Testing

Miter angle cuts on all the saws were easy to adjust and lock In, even if it was not one of the preset detents. There is a range of methods to adjust and lock in the miters with most of the saws having a screw-down type handle to lock in the miter angle. All the saws had at least 9 miter stops with the DeWalt being the one with more at 11. These preset angle stops make it a snap to quickly find common cut angles. All the saws allowed an override on the detents with the Milwaukee providing the most accurate way to measure miter angles thanks to its digital miter angle readout. All the saws were able to fully rotate the table in both left and right directions.

The commonalities in the bevel cuts with these saws are where we discovered the largest differences. Since some of these saws in this review are single bevel and others are dual, there are some obvious differences there. All the saws have stops at 0 and 45-degree bevel angles and four of them also have a 33.9-degree detent setting for cutting crown.

Cutting Crown Molding

If you are not a regular at cutting crown molding, it can be one of the most challenging cuts to make since they need a compound angle cut. Since all these saws allow for compound angle miter cuts, you no longer have to use the traditional method of standing your crown trim boards upside down against the fence. Still, vertical cut capacity rules the roost and makes these cuts very simple.

You can also easily set the miter and bevel using the integrated stops and cut the crown trim laying face up, flat against the table. We love that most Ridgid miter saws actually put a crown cutting guide permanently affixed to the miter adjustment handle. For most (or anyone who hasn’t done it in a while), it takes a little thinking to still get it right—even with the built-in angle stops.

Adjusting Bevel Angles

Adjusting the bevel angles varied greatly. The best 12″ compound miter saws allow easy adjustment of bevel and miter. Most of the ones we tested have some sort of large rotating handle on the back of the saw that must be loosened before you can pivot the head. On these saws, you must reach behind or the saw to adjust.

The Hitachi has a unique micro-adjustment that, once the main screw is loose, you can rotate the barrel to dial in an exact angle. With the Milwaukee 6955-20, Makita LS1219L (and XSL07Z/XSL08Z), and the Bosch GCM12SD Axial Glide, you get bevel controls right up front. This makes adjusting the bevel angles almost effortless.

Conclusion

While no single miter saw did everything, I think we have some good recommendations for most users. I used budget-minded Ryobi and Skilsaw models right next to the most expensive Milwaukee and Makita saws. There are differences to be sure. Your next miter saw purchase will come down to how you need to use it, price, capacity—and possibly even convenience.

Plus, with new cordless 12-inch miter saws, you may find yourself trying to match a new model to your battery platform of choice.

Keep in mind that the best 12-inch miter saw targets users looking for the highest cut capacities. You may find that you’ll do better with a smaller, more portable sliding saw.

The post Best 12-inch Miter Saw Reviews 2022 appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

We used the Innova 7111 Smart Diagnostic OBD2 Tablet to help us diagnose and solve problems across several vehicles. With a large easy-to-use LCD screen and wide vehicle compatibility, this tool does a bit more than your entry-level OBD2 scanner might accomplish.

Pros

• Easy to use with intuitive LCD interface
• Wide vehicle coverage
• Does much more than just read engine codes

Cons

• Finicky storage case

Innova 7111 OBD2 Tablet Overview

The price of the Innova 7111 Smart Diagnostic OBD2 Tablet clearly sets this unit up as a device targeting more seasoned users. DIY mechanics and consumers have several less-expensive options if all you want to do is diagnose check engine lights and reset your oil change and filter reminders. This particular Innova OBD2 code reader includes several additional features and functions that let advanced users do more advanced maintenance tasks and diagnostics on a variety of vehicles.

The Innova 7111, while not a factory or dealer level diagnostic tool, does give you a ton of useful functions. You can perform service resets for oil, engine, filter, and other systems. Beyond just reading codes, you can also do a custom scan and get real-time data from your vehicle.

Most entry-level OBD2 scanners let you translate an engine light or other indicator light into English so you can do something about it. The Innova 7111 OBD2 tablet goes a few steps further. The basic features provided by this smart diagnostic tablet include:

• Vehicle scanning
• Diagnostics
• Perfoming a network scan
• Scanning and testing selected modules
• Reading live vehicle data
• Erasing diagnostic trouble codes

Additional Tests with the Innova OBD2 Tablet

However, the Innova 7111 Diagnostic OBD2 Tablet gives you some additional tests as well. Among these, you can:

• View in-use performance tracking (IPT)
• Perform service resets
• View drive cycle procedures

And, for those auto-nerds out there (you know who you are), you can also see real-time data on the various sensors and input/output data while your vehicle runs. Once you make the appropriate repairs or take care of any flagged maintenance items, the Innova 7111 lets you clear out or reset the lights to complete the job.

Using the Innova 7111 Smart Diagnostic OBD2 Tablet

I’m not sure Innova could have made an easier interface for connecting the 7111 OBD2 tablet to your vehicle and starting a diagnostic scan.

You start with the ignition off and plug the 7111 cable into the 16-pin data port on your vehicle. Then, turn the tablet on. To initiate a diagnostic test, turn on the ignition (but don’t start the engine) and tap the Global OBD button at the top left quadrant of the screen. This brings up a “Scanning OBD” progress bar as the Innova 7111 OBD2 tablet scans the vehicle. It may take a couple of minutes for this to complete—particularly on newer vehicles that have many more sensors.

It next asks you to enter the vehicle mileage at which point it displays the results of the scan. If you go back later, you access this data via the Global OBD results screen. It includes the global onboard diagnostics (OBD), scheduled maintenance, predicted failures, technical service bulletins (TSBs), and even recalls.

Erasing Diagnostic Trouble Codes

The Innova 7111 OBD2 tablet also makes it simple to erase diagnostic trouble codes. After performing a scan of the vehicle, you can select “Erase DTC” from the main menu.

You simply tap the checkbox(es) next to each trouble code you want to erase. Once selected, hit the “Erase DTCs” button. It will give you a confirmation popup confirming you want to erase the DTCs.

Performing Service Resets

Some newer vehicles let you easily reset common service reminders and codes using the dash computer. Others force you to mess with the ignition and perform a series of bizarre tasks to clear an indicator. For more advanced service resets—like dealing with electric parking brakes or bleeding the ABS, many people give up and choose to visit the dealership.

We love that the Innova 7111 tablet lets you easily perform service resets. Access the Service Reset screen from the bottom right of the main screen. It gives you options for performing the following service reset procedures:

• Oil Light Reset
• Battery Reset
• Electric Parking Brakes
• Steering Angle Reset
• ABS Bleeding
• Battery/Alternator Test

If a particular service reset feature is unavailable for your make and model, the tablet informs you with a message. You also get a confirmation before the OBD2 system performs the reset.

Replacing the Brakes on a 2011 VW CC

We used the Innova 7111 when replacing the brakes on a 2011 VW CC which uses electronic parking brakes in the rear. An electrical servo motor extends force on the hydraulic brake piston in the rear calipers to set the brake. Ordinarily, doing any kind of rear brake work involves a trip to the dealer or a mechanic’s shop since proper equipment is required. This is where the Innova 7111 came in. I was able to do the brake service sequence in the software of the 7111 which released the rear calipers. Next, I swapped out the pads and used the software to reset the parking brake servo.

Everything was accomplished without a single issue—just as if I was using the factory computer system.

Real-Time Live Data Mode with the Innova OBD2 Tablet

The Innova OBD2 tablet lets you both view and optionally record real-time live data. In Live Data mode, you can see the battery performance, rpm, temperature, speed, and more. You can also access output from the vehicle sensors, switches, and actuators including fuel system status, and more.

Basically, the Innova 7111 OBD2 tablet can supply information for each parameter identification data (PID) sensor, actuator, switch, or status that is supported by the vehicle.

You can record this live data into the tablet’s memory. Just select Live Data mode and tap the Record button at the top right to begin recording Live Data. Tap the Stop button at the top left to stop recording at any time. The tablet asks you whether or not you want to save the data or erase it.

Conclusion

We easily saved ourselves several hundred dollars in diagnostic and service fees by using the Innova 7111 Smart Diagnostic OBD2 tablet. Using this tool on several vehicles, we found it offered a bit more capability than even the well-regarded Innova CarScan Pro 5610. You can certainly do a lot with less, but if you consider yourself a true automotive enthusiast or even an entry-level Pro, the Innova 7111 provides a higher-end solution for OBD2 scanning that includes more features than those found on entry-level diagnostic tools.

While Innova has basic OBD2 scanners starting at around $60, the Innova 7111 Smart Diagnostic OBD2 tablet makes our recommended list at just $599.99.

Innova 7111 CarScan Pro Specifications

• Model: 5610
• Read and clear codes on domestic, Asian, and European vehicles
• Bi-directional control/active tests
• Enhanced view live data stream
• Full vehicle module scan
• TPMS scan
• ABS/SRS scan
• Oil light reset
• Battery initialization/reset
• SMOG check LED indicators
• Code severity levels
• DPF regen
• Removable VCI for wirekless diagnostics
• RepairSolutions2 app for your phone via Bluetooth

The post Innova 7111 Smart Diagnostic OBD2 Tablet appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

We don’t often cover too many automotive tools and problems. However, oxygen sensors keep creeping back into my project list. Knowing how to change oxygen sensors in your vehicle can save you a lot of money and hassle.

With all the computer gadgetry on cars today, many car problems can seem daunting. Don’t you just hate it when the check engine light comes on in your car? Often it’s for something as relatively simple as an oxygen sensor that’s gone bad. This holds especially true if your automobile has around 100,000 miles on it or more. The normally expected life span of an oxygen sensor sits somewhere around 60 to 90 thousand miles.

The good news? Changing oxygen sensors doesn’t present many opportunities to mess up your vehicle. Consequently, you can definitely try and tackle this job yourself to save a few bucks.

What is an Oxygen Sensor?

Every new car, and most cars produced after 1980, have at least one oxygen sensor, if not more. These sensors feed data to the car’s engine control computer and are a vital part of the emissions system. The idea behind these sensors is to make the engine run as efficiently as possible and to produce as little pollution as possible.

All gasoline engines burn fuel and oxygen. This mixture of fuel and air is critical and is referred to as the fuel-air ratio. This ratio can vary with many different variables such as the quality of fuel, composition of the fuel, elevation, and temperature to name a few.

If the air is out of balance, there can be leftover fuel after combustion. We call this a “rich” mixture. You don’t want this because the unburned fuel causes excess pollution at the tailpipe. Frankly, it wastes fuel.

If you have too much air in the mix, you call it a “lean” mixture. A lean mix produces more nitrogen-oxide pollution. This can contribute to poor engine performance and even engine damage in some extreme cases. To sum it up—oxygen sensors play a key role in figuring out the exact air-fuel ratio your car needs at any given time.

Changing Oxygen Sensors

The oxygen sensors are positioned in the exhaust pipes. Most modern cars have one before and after each catalytic converter. Catalytic converters are a topic for another discussion. Just know that they function as a necessary part of the emission and pollution control system.

Located directly in the flow of the exhaust, oxygen sensors detect how rich or lean the engine is running. They then convey this data back to the car’s engine control computer. It then makes any necessary adjustments.

As you drive, the engine computer continually makes changes to optimize the performance and economy of the engine. Many outside factors also affect how the engine runs. This includes elevation, air/engine temperature, barometric pressure, and even the stress on the engine.

We all hate it when the engine light comes on. Many times, when you go to a service technician, he tells you it’s the oxygen sensor. Pay attention to this diagnosis when you get it. When the oxygen sensor fails to work properly, the engine control computer defaults to a mode that doesn’t take into account all the variables. It can’t since it’s not getting the needed data. This can lead to poor fuel economy, bad performance, and extra pollution from your car or truck.

Diagnosing the Problem Using an OBD2 Scanner

Now all this is to say that if you have even the slightest ability to turn a wrench, you probably are able to change the oxygen sensors yourself. The first place to start is diagnosing why the check engine light came on in the first place. This is pretty easy if you have your own engine code reader. We like the Innova CarScan Pro OBD2 scanner.

Many national discount auto part retailers also offer basic diagnostic services for free. They do this because they will be happy to tell you why your engine light is on so that they can sell you some parts. And of course, there are your regular mechanics and service technicians and can run diagnostics on your car. Now if you have your car at a mechanic in the first place, it is our guess you would rather not get your hands greasy. No matter how you find out, once you know, you can make your purchase.

We suggest not going with bargain-level products. They don’t tend to last. Unfortunately, I’ve had to learn this the hard way! I now only buy Bosch or OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) oxygen sensors.

Swapping Out the Oxygen Sensor

Now that we have the science lesson behind us for this article, we can get to what we set out to do. Let’s swap out an oxygen sensor. Our guinea pig car is a late model Honda Civic. According to my OBD2 code scanner, we were getting a diagnostic code that related to the secondary oxygen sensor.

After stopping at a local parts store we picked up a Bosch replacement unit that came with the factory-style plug. Since oxygen sensors have some wires coming out the end, you cannot use a conventional socket or box end wrench. The wires are in the way. For this job, we picked up a nifty little kit from the parts store that has three different oxygen sensor sockets for just a little over $20. This kit should work with just about any oxygen sensor out there since most all oxygen sensors have a 7/8″ (22 mm) hex drive.

The reason for three different sockets is because when they assemble cars in the factory, they are not always thinking about future accessibility when you have to do maintenance. Sorry to say, it sometimes takes some crazy angles and adapters to get at things when it comes time to change them.

In the case of the Honda Civic, the secondary oxygen sensor was in a fairly open and easy to access area in the front of the engine. Since this was the case, we used the socket style socket tool that fits over the sensor with a space for the wire to pass through. Before we loosened the sensor we unplugged it from the wire harness.

Working with Oxygen Sensor Sockets

Sometimes unplugging the sensor can actually be the hardest part of the job. Use patience and caution so as not to damage the plug or wires when pulling the two halves of the plugs apart. Using a 3/8″ drive ratchet we were easily able to loosen the old sensor.

The install is exactly the opposite of the removal, simply tighten in the new sensor with the appropriate socket adapter and plug it back into the wire harness. After we were all done, we used the AutoScanner to clear the saved codes from the engine computer, and then we started the car. After a few laps around the neighborhood, the check engine light did not come back on and the car had a clean bill of health again.

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At Pro Tool Reviews, we believe in empowering folks and helping them make the best tool choices for their situation. Many of our readers have asked how to build a basic tool set. Even the non-handiest person needs to make minor repairs, hang pictures, or assemble furniture from time to time! 

We try to break down our recommended tools by category as best we can. Really, we just want you to treat this as a helpful list so that you don’t forget anything. If you have questions along the way, we’re here to help. Of course, if we forgot anything you think should be on this list—leave a comment below so we can consider adding it!

How to Build a Basic Tool Set—Where to Start?

When buying a basic tool set, a certain collection of tools have no substitutes. You just need them. In consideration of space, our list includes basic tools with some options if you have the room and/or budget. While pre-packaged basic tools sets exist, many of these could include lower-quality pieces. Sometimes building your own yields better results.

Actually feeling the tools in your hand (before buying) helps you build a toolkit that you know works for you. You get to make sure you like the weight and size of a tool before adding it to your collection. We divided our list into several categories for simplicity. Feel free to jump to any category you need and start there.

How to Build a Basic Tool Set – Key Tools

Anyone who has ever bought “some-assembly-required” furniture knows you need some basic tools just to get by. A basic toolset comes in handy when you need to do things like adjust a bicycle seat, put up blinds, hang curtain rods, or replace a car battery. Find some simple recommendations below—but feel free to “roll your own” solutions as well.

Cordless Tools

We wanted to start here—and then tell you that’s not the point of this article. We didn’t create this list to recommend the best power tools brand. If you want a starting point, check out our best cordless drill reviews for some solid choices. For the handyman, pay attention to our low-cost recommendations. If you want something a bit more capable—we have those on the list, too.

The drill forms the core of your platform. After you find what you like, consider a kit. Make sure it at least includes an impact driver and circular saw. We consider the “core” tools to include a drill, impact driver, circular saw, and reciprocating saw.

Adding jig saws, reciprocating saws, sanders, nailers, radios, lights, and other tools can happen later on an as-needed basis.

Digital Multimeter or Voltmeter

If you don’t ever plan to touch anything electrical, fine. A digital multimeter or voltmeter, however, can really help you troubleshoot many different problems. It can help you understand the way your home circuits work—like when a GFCI keeps tripping. It can even help troubleshoot electronics. You don’t need to spend a fortune to get a decent multimeter that measures Voltage, Current, and Resistance (and more).

Screwdriver Set

A good starter screwdriver set comes with multiple sizes of both, straight and Philips head types as a minimum. We also find sets with TORX, square, and even multi-tip type screwdriver handy. They let you work on more types of fasteners which we find on an increasing number of products. We like the Southwire Made-in-America screwdriver set and the Milwaukee 8-piece screwdriver set, but a basic kit from anyone should serve you well.

Also, consider picking up something like the Klein 15-in-1 screwdriver for additional flexibility. We like tossing these into a tool bag for space savings.

Drill Bits and Driver Bits

You definitely want a small basic drill bit kit. If you want to get fancy, grab what’s known as an “index” kit that includes one of just about every size from 1/16-inch to 1/2-inch. Or, you can grab a kit with a handful of sizes ranging from 1/8-inch up to 3/8-inch. If you plan to drill metal, read our article on the best drill bits for metal.

For driver bits, you have an easier time. Grab some magnetic bits for driving various fasteners. You want a nice assortment as you may end up having to deal with Phillips, Torx, and even square drive fasteners at some point. We really like the Makita XPS impact driver bits on the top end. Realistically speaking, however, you can grab cheaper base kits from the likes of Bosch, Ryobi, and Craftsman Tools.

Framing Hammer

We can’t really create a guide on how to build a basic tool set without recommending a hammer. If you want to buy just one hammer, go with the best framing hammer you can afford. A basic hammer works, but we prefer something around 19-22 ounces as a general rule. Look for a smooth-faced hammer with a straight claw. You may have heard us talk about why we prefer titanium hammers vs steel, but you don’t need that added expense when starting out. If you want tried-and-true, grab the Estwing 22-oz smooth-faced framer.

Pry Bars

We can’t build a complete how to build a basic tool set article without pry bars! At least one medium-sized trim pry bar works well for most folks. Having a pry bar helps save your screwdrivers which should not be used for prying. I prefer flat bars measuring 15-inches or longer. A small trim bar may also help when dealing with base molding and similar, more delicate, operations.

Work Light and Headlamp

A small, rugged LED-style flashlight used to be the thing. Now, however, we prefer small work lights or task lights that illuminate your immediate work area. If you don’t opt for a rechargeable model, be sure to bring along extra batteries.

Headlamps stay with you while you work, making them indispensable for working inside cabinets, in crawlspaces, or anywhere you need light directly in front of you.

How to Build a Basic Tool Set by Expanding Your Hand Tools

Next, we want to expand your hand tools and ensure you have some of the most common tools needed for tackling household jobs. We also include tools for project building and DIY creations.

Clamps

Clamps help to hold things together while you fasten or while the glue dries. If you build things, you need clamps—lots of clamps. Grab a wide variety of clamps in various sizes, types, and styles. You won’t regret it. We find the 12-inch Irwin Quick Grips and Bessey trigger clamps among the most versatile.

Adjustable Wrench

An adjustable wrench definitely qualifies as one of those handy tools you need in any basic tool set when you can put your finger on what size the fastener head is. Look for a medium-sized model. We particularly like the Milwaukee adjustable wrenches but you can get cheaper tools.

Wrench Set

With this type of recommendation, you have lots of options. Not everyone needs a set of wrenches right away, but most would benefit from having these tools. They definitely help if you plan to work on your own vehicle.

Look for both a set of metric and standard (SAE) wrenches. While a basic set of wrenches works perfectly—we also like ratcheting models that let you quickly loosen nuts without having to lift and place the wrench for each turn.

Wire Cutting Pliers

Wire cutters (side cutters or diagonal cutting pliers) should feel sturdy in your hand while remaining light. These are useful for cutting wires, rope, cord, etc. I might also include a pair of wire strippers—but I dabble in electrical work. There are actually many kinds of pliers—and each has its place. Check out our best pliers article for some of the best in each category that we’ve put our hands on.

Needle Nose Pliers

We split out these pliers for a reason. Needle nose pliers help you reach into tight places to tighten or grab something otherwise unreachable. Sometimes regular pliers are “all thumbs”. When you need this tool—nothing else works as a substitute.

Locking Jaw Pliers (Vise Grips)

Locking jaw pliers work well when you can no longer grab a fastener head with a wrench or screwdriver. Irwin Vise Grips remain the gold standard, but Milwaukee Torque Lock pliers also impress us.

Allen Wrenches

Pros may opt for a nice set of T-handles, but we like the folding style sets. They deliver multiple tools attached to a single handle. Stay away from loose kits as they get lost quite easily.

Chisels

Look for a good 3/4-inch wood chisel. Use it for things like adjusting the strike plate location on a door or cutting in hinges. Do NOT use it on any metal or for prying. Take good care of your chisels and they should last a very long time.

Painting Tools

While a caulk gun (see below) works well for a variety of household projects—it introduces those tools required for painting. We don’t recommend sprayers—leave those to the professionals or for when you want to really get serious about your work.

Caulk Gun

You may not immediately think of a caulk gun when considering how to build a basic tool set. And yet, everyone has a sink, bathtub, or a window that needs to be caulked at some point. You might as well get one of these now and have it handy. Stay away from the cheapest models unless you have really strong hands. We recommend something with a bit more leverage. Of course, if you fix everything with caulk, you may want to consider picking up a cordless caulk gun.

Paint Brushes

Buying the right paint brush just means understanding what you want to accomplish. Having some basic brushes around makes it easy to do touchups and small projects. You also want a nice angled brush you can take care of for cutting in when painting larger areas of your home. We suggest at least one high-quality 3-inch brush, an angled 2-inch brush, and a variety of smaller disposable chip brushes.

Putty Knife and 5-in-1 Tool

We can’t neglect to mention how handy a putty knife is for spreading fillers and removing loose paint. A 5-in-1 helps you quickly scrape, clean paint rollers, and open up paint cans—among other things.

Sanding Block

A rubber 1/4 sheet sanding block is the most convenient size to keep around. Use it for sanding down small areas when patching drywall.

Tool Kit Staples for Measuring and Cutting

When building a basic tool set you need solid layout, measurement, and cutting. These tools provide some of the most basic tasks for any job. That includes cutting up cardboard boxes, hanging things (televisions, mirrors, or even doors), and measuring a room for furniture or a carpet.

Torpedo Level and Box Beam Level

We can really tell you how to build a basic tool set without including some levels. The most convenient size is a torpedo level. This compact level easily fits inside most toolboxes or tool bags. If you can, also grab an aluminum 2-foot level like the Klein 24-inch box level or any of the recommendations from our best bubble level buying guide. A 2-foot level gives you all the usefulness of the smaller size level. Also, since it’s made of a rigid material, it works as a straight edge when lining things up or making precision cuts with a utility knife.

Utility Knife

We recommend looking for a knife that utilizes common and easy-to-replace blades, both folding and standard styles work fine. Our favorite remains the Milwaukee Fastback utility knives but we also like OLFA Aluminum MXP utility knives. The latter feature segmented snap-off blades that keep your edge almost infinitely sharp.

Scissors, Snips, and Shears

Make sure to grab a good pair of heavy duty scissors than can cut through thick materials. Similarly, we recommend grabbing a pair of aviation snips for cutting through thinner sheet metals. We like the Milwaukee straight aviation snips, but honestly, many brands make great products.

25 ft. Tape Measure

A 16-foot tape makes for a good start, and honestly it’s our favorite. If you only want to buy one, get a 25-foot compact model to cover those longer distances. We like the Stanley Fatmax tape measure as well as Milwaukee Tool compact tapes and their tough Stud tape measure.

Various Saws

If you already own some power tool solutions, you may have less use for hacksaws and wood saws. Still, not everything easily cuts with a power tool. Consider grabbing a hacksaw that uses replaceable blades and works well for cutting hard materials like metal and PVC. Also, a basic wood saw comes in handy when you need to cut wood cleanly.

Carpenter Pencils

No one has built a better mousetrap in this area (successfully) in our opinion. Answering the question of how to build a basic tool set needs to include a pack of these. Carpenter pencils hold up better than regular pencils due to the larger graphite lead within.

Safety, Organization, and Cleanup

We can’t cap off this article on how to build a basic tool set without covering safety, organization, and clean-up. While your primary concern is buying a basic toolset, it also helps to know how to store them and protect yourself on the job site. Thinking about safety, organization, and cleanup right from the start can save you lots of headaches in the long run.

First Aid Kit

A first aid kit always makes good sense to have around even if you are not fixing things!

Safety Glasses

Always have tinted and non-tinted safety glasses handy. Note: while sunglasses might help deflect objects from your eyes, safety glasses come with a rating specifically to ensure objects at speed don’t penetrate. Find some that are comfortable and fit your face well.

Work Gloves

These come in all shapes and sizes. You don’t need heavy leather gloves either. Work gloves provide anything from knuckle and hand protection to cut-protection. Many now offer areas that let you use your smartphone without having to remove the gloves. Overall, we prefer thinner gloves that fit snugly for most projects. They offer good protection while remaining tactile.

Dust Mask

The cloth/paper type will work for simple and low-dust applications. For anything involving long-term work, we recommend an N95-rated mask. The better models include a vent, and some even offer a rechargeable fan to evacuate warm air you breathe out. For extreme work, consider a respirator.

Extension Cord

You want a good 50-foot extension cord. We actually prefer a couple of 50-foot cords over a single 100-foot cord due to how difficult longer cords are to manage. Spend the few extra dollars and get cords that use 12 AWG wire. See our extension cord size chart article for more info on how that affects your power tools.

Shop Vac or Dust Extractor

We recommend at least a 6 gallon wet/dry vacuum. These have dropped significantly in price over the years, making them very affordable. Check out our Best Shop-Vac Reviews article for some great recommendations. That article also helps you understand the difference between a shop vac and dust extractor. To summarize, a shop vac cleans up messes, and a dust extractor removes dust and debris caused by a tool cutting concrete, masonry, or wood.

Drop Cloths

Not to be confused with plastic, drop cloths come in handy for protecting floors and furniture from paint and dust. Make sure to get one that is at least 8ft by 10ft in size. Unlike plastic, paint doesn’t smear across a drop cloth—making them the preferred “tool” of this sort for professional painters. While you shop for these, also grab some clean rags. These work well for clean up, applying stain, protecting surfaces, and more. You may also want to buy a small case of blue shop towels.

Tool Storage

You need some way to store and organize your tools. That might be either a toolbox or tool bag. Even a bucket can suffice with the right tool-storage accessory. Choose something that fits the amount of space you have and the number of tools you own. And you may need more than one solution—especially if you factor in your work vehicle and your shop or garage.

Consumable Items

Following is a brief list of consumable items you will find helpful to have on-hand. You don’t want to make a run to the store every time you need something basic like duct tape or caulk.

1. Wall Anchors – Consider picking up a variety pack that lets you hang and attach things to a wall with extreme ease and holding power. Also, check out our article on how to use drywall anchors for more info.
2. Nails and Screws – Small kits come with various fasteners in different lengths and sizes in a convenient plastic case.
3. Duct Tape – From what we have seen, this stuff can temporally fix almost everything. Like holding the bumper on your car after a fender bender to fixing a broken chair back.
4. Masking Tape/Painter’s Tape – Good for paint so you keep a nice straight line, but also used for a host of other things around the house or job site.
5. Electrical Tape – Usually black in color, this waterproof tape works well to insulate exposed wires like on your vacuum cleaner cord after you have sucked it up a few times and pulled it back out…
6. Caulk – There are two types of caulk to keep on hand. Alex caulk works well for fixing cracks in paintable trim and drywall. The other is a silicone-based caulk for sinks, tubs, or windows. All caulks are labeled for their use. Pay attention to whether or not they are paintable!
7. Sandpaper – Get a variety pack that has rough, medium, and fine grids because you never know what you might need to sand. Match the paper to your tool of choice so you have what you need.
8. Blue nitrile gloves – Perfect for working on the car or anywhere your hands can pick up grease, these disposable gloves come in an affordable box.

Conclusion

We’re certain this list doesn’t include everything you might need. Hopefully, it gets you on the right path. Whether you plan on tackling simple to more complicated DIY projects or even if you’re a future Pro starting out, the tools on this list should help you plan. Half the battle to getting projects completed often has to do with not having the right tools.

We purposely didn’t include power tools in this article. Our focus was teaching you how to build a basic tool set to prepare you for all manner of work. In the end, some of these tools may be stop-gaps while you learn what your preferences are. That’s OK. Every one of us learn as we go.

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If you swing. a hammer for a living, you know the titanium hammers vs steel hammers debate. It’s likely you’ve picked up a titanium hammer or perhaps you already use one. If, however, you’re unsure as to whether you should spend the typical $100+ price for titanium, this article may help.

Titanium Hammers vs Steel Hammers on Weight

Just about any framer, form builder or scaffold erector that has been swinging a hammer as part of his livelihood can tell you that, at some point in their career, they have suffered from joint and muscle pain in their hammering arm. The very tool of their trade can often be the culprit responsible for this discomfort. This situation first prompted us to compare titanium hammers vs steel hammers in the first place.

If the hammer is a means to an end, it makes sense to maximize the hammer’s potential. So how do titanium hammers make your job healthier? We’ve reviewed the Stiletto 12 oz Titanium Remodeler hammer and the Stiletto Titanium flat bars, so we wanted to know.

The Physics of the Swinging Hammer Action

This question had us turning to Joel Allen, Director of Innovation at Stiletto Titanium Tools for some input. He explained that the physics of titanium hammers vs steel ultimately comes down to energy transfer. In the motion of hammering, energy originates in your arm (particularly, your muscles & joints). This energy gets stored in the hammer’s head and is released upon impact with the nail.

A titanium hammer harnesses a full 97% of the energy garnered from that hammer swing and transfers it directly to the nail. For comparison, a steel hammer transfers only 70% of that energy to the nail. If you do some quick math you may wonder where the 27% loss of energy went on the steel head hammer.

For the most part, it gets transferred back to the user through the energy that is released in the recoil of the steel. Essentially, vibrations are sent through the hammer head, back down the handle, and into your arm. While some steel hammers have implemented some vibration-absorbing handle materials, at the end of the day, steel remains less efficient at transferring the strike energy to the nail.

Titanium Hammers Lighter vs Steel

In addition to its vibration properties, titanium is also roughly 45% lighter than steel. That means that you not only get a more effective transfer of energy, you also expend less energy swinging a titanium hammer. The lighter weight heads are similarly-sized as their steel counterparts, and so the reduction in weight doesn’t reduce the area of the striking face. So is this the best framing hammer type you can buy?

If Titanium Hammers are Better, Why Doesn’t Everyone Use One?

Joel laughed as I asked him this, but he quickly got serious. He told me that in his many conversations at job sites and trade shows, most guys are quick to say there is no point in owning a lightweight titanium hammer.

But then they get to use one.

For many guys, it is an eye-opening experience. What sells titanium hammers isn’t an end-cap display in a home improvement warehouse or hardware store, but getting the opportunity to actually swing one. You have to put one in a tradesman’s hands and let them experience the difference. Take Stiletto, for example. Since they started selling titanium hammers back in 1997, word of mouth has been their biggest marketing asset. People that use titanium hammers realize their benefits and have done an amazing job spreading the word.

The biggest deterrent or excuse for not purchasing a titanium hammer is its cost. In its raw form, titanium is about five times more expensive than steel to produce. In addition to the high raw material costs, it is also more difficult to make titanium tools due to the manufacturing process. For this reason, a titanium hammer can easily be four to ten times more expensive than comparable steel hammers.

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And the Final Reason to go Titanium…

The health benefits of titanium hammers vs steel hammers took a while to sink in. When they hit the market 16 years ago, facts seemed scarce. They now seem to show a significant rise in user comfort. If you factor in fewer pain pills, doctor visits, and other muscle or joint injuries, the additional cost of a titanium hammer versus a steel hammer quickly pays for itself. The greater efficiency and the reduction in weight help reduce the potential for carpal tunnel syndrome and tennis elbow. In the end, that means less downtime, more productivity, and (most importantly) less pain while working.

If you use a hammer all day long, anything that can make your work easier and promote better health is something worth taking a look at. But don’t just look at it—pick one up and give it a swing!

Special thanks to Joel Allen, Director of Innovation at Stiletto Titanium Tools for speaking with us about titanium tools.

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