To continue our series on measuring, marking, and layout skills, we wanted to tackle calculating square footage. Learning how to calculate square footage is a necessary skill. It’s imperative when buying sod for your yard, ordering gravel for your driveway, or picking up paint for your walls. For example, when buying carpeting, you have to get it right or you risk wasting a lot of money or time. You don’t want to either buy more than you need or run out of materials mid-project. This is crucial since getting items from two different lots often yields slightly different colors.

Every contractor, DIYer, and weekend warrior needs to know basic workshop math. This can really save you time, money, and material in the long run.

The Basics of How to Calculate Square Footage

Calculating square footage is easy if you only have to deal with rectangles. Simply multiply the length times the width. In the real world, however, not everything comes with right angles. Still, let’s start with the basics.

A standard sheet of plywood measures 32 sq ft. We get that by multiplying 8-feet x 4-feet. An 8-foot tall wall measuring 10-feet long is 80 sq ft. Simple right? A 12-foot wide, 80-foot long driveway equates to 960 sq ft.

Summary: Calculating square footage is easy. Usually, you multiply length times width. The real world is often not that easy, though.

A Real-World Example at the Polk Museum of Art

Now let’s take a real-world example at the Polk Museum of Art in Lakeland, FL. We are considering getting bids to replace our hardwood floors. I need to calculate the square footage of all of our galleries. Some are easy like the small rectangular gallery below. In this case, I convert to inches and then multiply the two numbers together. In this case, it gives me 191.23 square feet. Alternatively, I can convert the inches portion of the measurement to a decimal representation of feet. Some of the best laser distance measures can do this for you.

To manually multiply two measurements together with feet and inches, you have to convert them both to the same measurement. It is easiest to convert them to inches. Let’s take the above case with 11′-5″ multiplied by 16′-9″. First, take 11 feet x 12 = 132 inches. Add the remaining 5 inches to get 137 inches. Next take 16 feet x 12 = 196 inches. Add the remaining 9 inches to get 201 inches.

Now you can multiply 201″ X 137″ = 27,537 square inches. Anytime you have a measurement in square inches and want to convert it to square feet, divide it by 144. In this case, 27,537 square inches ÷ 144 = 191.23 square feet… exactly what the construction calculator said it should be.

How to Save Time by Using a Construction Calculator

By far the easiest way to multiply feet and inches together is to use a construction calculator or get a constitution calculator app on your phone (Apple | Android). Unlike a regular calculator, construction calculators let you input both feet and inches when making calculations. They make easy work out of many tasks like calculating rafters, stair layouts, board feet, concrete volume, slope & grade, metric conversions, and much more.

I use mine as the default calculator for my phone, and I keep a physical construction calculator beside my workbench and on my tool cart at work. I love mine as much as any tool I own!

Tip: Anytime you have a measurement in square inches and want to convert it to square feet, divide it by 144.

Converting Square Footage to Yards

Sometimes you run into situations where things are measured in yards. (You “metric people” can feel free to roast us Americans in the comment section all you want, but it won’t change anything). All the math above works exactly the same. A driveway 50-yards long and 12-yards wide is 600-yards because 50 x 12 = 600.

A football field is 120 yards long by 160 feet wide if you include the end zones. When doing math with two different units of measurement (feet and yards in this case), you need to do a conversion. If we take 160 (feet) and divide it by 3, that tells us the width of the football field in yards.

160 ÷ 3 = 53.33 yards. Next, we can simply multiply 120 x 53.33. Do that, and you get ~6,400 square yards of football field. The approximation comes from the fact that 160 ÷ 3 is not really 53.33 yards but actually 53.333333… When estimating, getting close works perfectly because you typically want to add 10% on top anyway to cover waste.

What if your boss then changes his or her mind (as they are known to do)? They now say they want to know the football field in square feet. You can redo the math by multiplying 120 x 3 which gives you 360 feet. Then, take 360 and multiply it by 160 feet to get 57,600 square feet (incidentally, that’s about 1.32 acres).

Dividing by 9

Let’s go back to the 57,600 square feet football field example. Now I need to convert it to square yards. You don’t need to redo the math. Just take 57,600 and divide by 9. So 57,600 ÷ 9 = 6,400 square yards.

Sound familiar?

This also means the opposite holds true. If you know you have 6,400 square yards and need to convert that to square feet, just multiply by 9. In this case, 6,400 x 9 = 57,600 square feet.

Summary: If you know the square footage and need the square yardage, divide by 9. Know the square yardage? Multiply by 9 to find the square footage.

How to Deal with Circles When Calculating Square Footage

Let’s go back to the floorplan of the Polk Museum of Art. Below the small gallery is an oddly shaped, much larger gallery. It features two circular areas but no actual circles. How would we calculate this? We could always guess, but what if you are in a situation where the materials you are pricing are extremely expensive? You may be wasting hundreds, thousands, or even tens of thousands of dollars.

You do much better actually taking the time to do the math. Large projects would waste millions of dollars if they guessed instead of accurately calculating the square footage of materials needed.

To calculate the shape of a complex room, you simply need to break it down into basic shapes. To start, let’s tackle the curve on the bottom.

Area = πr²

To find the area of a circle just member πr². Pi equals (approximately) 3.14. You multiply that times the radius (r) squared. When you square a number you multiply it by itself.

Taking the floorplan of the Museum. I measured the walls and found they were 25-feet apart. In my head, I imagine a circle in the gallery space with a 25-foot diameter. To find the radius, divide by 2. That gives you 12′-6″.

According to the formula, I square this, in other words, multiply 12′-6″ times 12′-6″ which is 156.25 square feet. I then multiply this times π (pi or 3.14) which is 490.6 square feet. This gives me the square foot for the entire circle below.

However, I don’t need the area of the full circle—just half. Dividing 490.6 square feet by 2, I get the arc below. This gives me 245.3 square feet. I now know the orange area.

Continue Using Shapes to Calculate the Total Square Footage

I continue by dividing the remainder of the room into two additional rectangles. Calculating the square footage of each of the smaller rectangles is easy now. This gives me 382.7 square feet in the green area and 208.3 square feet in the blue area.

And now we come to the tricky part. If the cost of materials you are estimating is not too expensive, treat the gallery entryway as a rectangle instead of a circular. In this case that gives us 112.75 square feet. You can then add all then separate measurements together to find the square footage of the gallery, or at least “close enough for government work”. If however, you need to know the EXACT square footage to odd shapes like this, nothing beats a computer.

How to Calculate Square Footage Using CAD

For the ultimate accuracy and efficiency in calculating square footage, use CAD software. CAD stands for Computer-Aided Design (or “Drafting” if you grew up in the 80s). Why calculate the square footage of complex shapes when the computer can just tell you? Of course, you need to know how to ask.

Available CAD Software Options

Programs like AutoCAD serve as the industry standard for mechanical and architectural design. These programs can even calculate and render 2D and 3D shapes. AutoCAD is EXTREMELY expensive at over $1,800 a year. This is why I prefer the much more affordable TurboCAD Professional which “only” costs $1,000 as a one-time purchase. It also works with AutoCAD DWG files. AutoCAD Lite and TurboCAD Deluxe are stripped-down versions of the programs that are still extremely capable. They start at around $300.

2D and 3D Design Capabilities

Once you get your hands on the architectural plans of a building in CAD form, you can turn on and off different layers. That lets you show and hide plumbing, electrical, HVAC, etc, and also zoom in to the exact spots your crew will be working on. It also makes calculating/estimating materials go from an art form to a science. You can literally count every board and sheet of plywood needed and predetermine your desired overage amounts.

Our advice? If you’re a contractor (or aspire to be a contractor), learn these programs. Free apps such as Sketchup are helpful, but they are no substitute for an actual CAD program. If you do this for a living, CAD software quickly pays for itself—and then starts making you money. I took a class in AutoCAD at a local community college twenty years ago. It has been one of the most important classes I have ever taken in my life.

Summing Up How to Calculate Square Footage

Calculating square footage is usually straightforward if the room, wall, or space is rectangular. If the space is any other shape, it requires you to break the larger shape down into its smaller components. Calculate the square footage of each of these components separately then add them together to get the total. Sometimes you may even have to be creative and subtract the small component to get the total measurement.

Always remember to keep your units the same—you can’t multiple feet x inches x yards. To simplify your life, grab a construction calculator. I always keep a construction calculator app on my phone, a pencil, paper, and tape measure in my truck just for these purposes. In the end, it will save you money.

The post How to Calculate Square Footage for Tile, Flooring, Painting, or Sod appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Full-size table saw accuracy in a pint-size portable package

When I first saw the track that comes with the Ryobi PTS01 brushless track saw, I thought “why did they do that?” The track is only 27.5-inches long. However, you get two of them, and they attach together to become one 55-inch track. I thought I would just leave it assembled in one long track, ready to cut full-size sheets of plywood.

Then I went on vacation and took the Ryobi cordless track saw with me! This saw and the tracks fit in my suitcase! Try that with a Festool or Makita!

Pros

• Track packs down into smaller packages than other saws
• Excellent cut quality and precision
• Easier to cut large sheets of plywood with a track saw than with a table saw
• Good power and performance
• Easy to use with good ergonomics
• Can tilt the saw 45 degrees without it falling out of the track
• Additional tracks will be available which will allow ripping the full length of plywood
• The dust port fits common dust extractors out of the box

Cons

• The dust port does not fit standard wet/dry vacumes without an aftermarket adapter
• At the time of this writing, additional tracks are not available for purchase (they are coming)

The Case for Using a Track Saw

If I had to choose between a table saw vs a track saw, I would choose a track saw. I own both. I use my track saw to cut down large sheets of plywood to more manageable sizes before I start cutting them on my table saw. The Ryobi PTS01 track saw makes quick work of this common task. Track saws will also give you cleaner cuts than a table saw, especially in plywood which is prone to splinter when cut across the grain.

If you have never used a track saw before, the first thing you need to do is cut through the excess black plastic material on the track. This makes it so the track lines up EXACTLY where the saw is going to cut. This is what makes a track saw so precise, especially for large sheets of plywood.

Ryobi PTS01 Track Saw Performance

When I started using the Ryobi PTS01 track saw, I tried to push it hard to see what it would take to bog it down. It has an 18V brushless motor and provides plenty of power. If you really try, you can stop the blade—but only by pushing at a ridiculously fast rate of speed in 1.5-inch thick material. Even when I did this, the cut remained clean.

The Ryobi track saw feels great in the hand and all the controls are exactly where you would expect them. My only issue with the ergonomics is that there is no thumb rest for guiding the saw from the front left base like some models have. (See photos below).

I find this technique very helpful in keeping the saw firmly on the track, especially when tilting the saw at an angle. My saw has a divot for your thumb and makes it more comfortable than the Ryobi which has sharp edges in that spot.

Pro Tip: Use blue or pink styrofoam sheets under the wood you are cutting and set your track saw to cut 1/8-in through the wood. The syrofoam supports the wood while you cut into it without worring about damaging your sawhorse, workbench, or in my case, a truck tailgate. It also give you a smoother cut and helps with dust control when using a dust collector or shop vacuum.

Ryobi Track Saw Design Notes

The Ryobi track saw track is made of two 27.5-inch sections that are combined by using a pair of track connection bars. Once connected, the tracks form a near-seamless 55-inch track. When making cuts, you do not even notice the seam.

The Allen wrench stored on the saw fits these track clamps.

One cool trick the Ryobi PTS01 track saw has up its sleeve is you can let go of the saw when it is at a 45-degree bevel and it will not fall out of the track. Many of Ryobi’s competitors can’t do that, even with saws costing twice as much!

When you first look at the Ryobi PTS01 you will see about half a dozen screws that look like they need to be removed to change the blade. This is not the case. Instead, you flip the lever pictured below to the lock/wrench icon. Next, plunge down the saw. The saw arbor automatically locks at a small window. From there you can reach the arbor nut (after removing the battery of course). Overall, I found it very simple to change the blade on this Ryobi track saw.

To make a cut, you have to press a plunge release lever with your thumb, then pull the trigger.

The blade is entirely hidden within the body of the saw until you release it and make a plunge down. The blade springs back up in the body of the saw once the cut is made. This makes track saws one of the safest types of circular saws to use.

One of my only major complaints about the saw is that the dust port is the exact same diameter as a standard wet/dry-vac hose. You can’t connect them together without buying an aftermarket coupler…or using duct tape. On a positive note, you can use common dust extractors.

Ryobi Track Saw Price

The Ryobi track saw comes either as a bare tool or as a kit. Model PTS01B (the bare tool) retails for $329 and includes the plunge saw, a 40 tool ultra-thin kerf blade, two 27.5-inch tracks, and a track clamp. The Ryobi PTS01K kit adds a charger and 4Ah battery and retails for $399. Additional sections of tracks are available according to Ryobi.

The Bottom Line

Track saws give you table saw performance with everything except making the smallest cuts. The Ryobi track saw is for anyone who needs a good, well-made track saw that doesn’t break the bank. I own several of the premium competitors’ track saws and would be perfectly happy with this one once additional tracks are available (so that I can rip 96 inches). Ryobi claims that should happen by the end of Q3 2022.

Where this saw really shines though is with anyone who is traveling or has limited space in a vehicle. This is the perfect saw for building or storm recovery teams. Having a reasonably-priced track saw that you can pack into a suitcase or luggage when on mission trips makes this tool particularly ideal for churches and other non-profits.

Ryobi PTS01 Specifications

• Blade size: 6-1/2 in.
• Arbor: 5/8 in.
• Track: 2 x 27.5 in (included)
• Cut capacity w/track (90°): 1-15/16 in.
• Cut capacity w/track (45°): 1-7/16 in.
• 90° cut capacity (no track): 2-1/8 in.
• 45° cut capacity (no track): 1-9/16 in.
• Bevel capacity: -1° to 48°
• Track adjust and anti-tip adjustments
• Adjustable depth control knob
• Speed: 4,300 RPM
• Dust port: 1-1/4 and 1-7/8 in.
• Warranty: 3-year limited
• PTS01B includes: 6-1/2″ track saw, 40T carbide-tipped blade, (2) 27.5-in. tracks, (2) track connection bars, riving knife, track clamp, blade wrench, track wrench, and operator’s manual
• PTS01K includes: 6-1/2″ track saw, 40T carbide-tipped blade, (2) 27.5-in. tracks, (2) track connection bars, riving knife, track clamp, blade wrench, track wrench, 18V 4Ah HP battery, charger, and operator’s manuals

The post Ryobi PTS01 18V HP Brushless 6-1/2″ Track Saw Review appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

It is no exaggeration to say that Tapcons and other concrete screws have changed the world. The first art gallery I worked in had brick walls and it was my job to hang the exhibits every month or two. It was such a huge pain drilling holes and installing anchors. I would have killed for Tapcons back then. Plastic anchors also didn’t help with the look of the museum walls after we removed the exhibit. Now we not only have concrete screws, but we also get to use a concrete screw installation kit to easily install them.

Using a concrete screw installation kit like the ones pictured below, you save a lot of time switching between drilling and fastening.

Pro-tip: Buy two installation kits. Install the bit for the large Tapcons (1/4-inch screws) in one hammer drill and the small Tapcons (3/16-inch screws) in the other. Leave the bulky cases at home. All you need are these two cylinders and two extra tips for the ends. This also saves you from having to swap the bits back and forth. Several companies make these concrete screw installation kits and you can get them for use with rotary hammers, hammer drills, and impact drivers.

Using a Concrete Screw Installation Kit

To use a concrete screw installation kit or tool, chuck the tool in your hammer drill, then set it to hammer mode and high-speed drilling. Remove the outer sleeve which exposes the bit. Drill your hole, making sure you are using the correct size bit for the screws you are using. Next, slip the sleeve over the installation tool and use it as a driver to drive your screw. No need to remove the drill bit. This is what makes the system so fast to use. The end of the sleeve fits the smallest hex head screws and it comes with two additional bits, a number three Philips and a larger driver. I store one bit on one sleeve and one on the other making it easy to carry in a toolbox. It is a fantastic system.

If you use a rotary hammer, you will need a different set of drill bits since the shanks of them use SDS Plus bits. Fortunately, Bosch makes a universal kit that includes both the bits and the installation tool for hammer drills and rotary hammers along with the sleeve and drivers. As I mentioned above, I recommend you buy two kits.

Final Thoughts

While not inexpensive, these kits can really save you time (i.e. money) if you tend to do a lot of Tapcon or concrete screw anchoring. Look for pricing between $20 and $50 depending upon which set you buy.

The post Using a Concrete Screw Installation Kit appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

I have a deep dark confession to make: I love anchoring things to concrete. It’s a weird addiction. I started doing it in college. There are so many types of concrete anchors to choose from, but I completely skipped small plastic anchors and went straight for the heavy stuff. 1/2-inch or larger lead shields bolting multi-ton outdoor sculptures to concrete pads. Soon after, I switched to sleeve anchors. I finally moved to wedge anchors. Red Heads for those of you in the know. I’m not proud of it. I have tried to break the habit but after 35 years of doing it. I can’t stop. It is just too much fun—provided you do it the right way.

If you use concrete anchors the wrong way, you will have an incredibly frustrating experience. It could cause you to do great bodily harm to your power tools (possibly wanting to throw them in the nearest lake while uttering many profane words). Each anchor is installed using its own unique method, and each one has its own quirks. This can lead to frustration if you don’t know which one to use in which situation. Hopefully, this article will sort out any confusion.

Types of Concrete Anchors

You can find dozens of types of concrete anchors on the average construction site. I use several regularly.

The strongest anchoring systems utilize resin-based anchors you install with two-part epoxy. These appear most commonly on industrial and commercial sites and are too expensive or specialized for day-to-day use unless specified by an architect or engineer.

Some anchors feature bolt heads that snap off at a predetermined torque level. They leave the threaded bolt and flange to indicate the exact torque was used to tighten the anchors. These are also extremely expensive and relegated to projects where extremely tight tolerances and absolute safety is a must. Think long-span bridges or nuclear power plants.

Those of us who don’t work for companies that pay $600 for a toilet seat typically use the types of concrete anchors shown here:

Wedge Anchors and Sleeve Anchors

Both wedge anchors and sleeve anchors are excellent types of concrete anchors that hold a tremendous amount of weight. They provide strength for both pullout and shear force. Because of the spitting/wedging force they put on the concrete, try to avoid getting closer than 3-inches to the edge of the concrete. If you do, you risk splitting off a chunk of the slab. Of the two, wedge anchors provide the most strength—and are my personal favorite of all the anchors to use.

How to Install Wedge and Sleeve Concrete Anchors – Drilling

You install both wedge and sleeve anchors the same way. Drill the proper size hole with a hammer drill or rotary hammer drill and insert the anchor. Drive it in with a hammer. More on that below. The hole diameter is listed on the packaging and usually on the anchor itself. You will have to drill the hole at least a 1/4-inch deeper than the anchor.

I recently wrote an article on how to drill through concrete. Also, if you are not familiar with the differences between a rotary hammer vs a hammer drill you might want to read that article as well. Both of these are necessary tools for concrete work.

Driving in the Anchor

Once the hole is drilled and the anchor is inserted as far as it will go, drive the anchor in the rest of the way with a hammer or small sledgehammer, depending on the size anchor you are using. Be very careful here. Notice the photos below. There are two types of concrete wedge and sleeve anchors. High-quality premium brands have extra metal at the top of the bolt so you don’t deform the screw threads when hammering it in. If you use the cheap anchors, back off the nut so you will not be hammering on the end of the bolt. You want to be hammering on the nut instead and it will protect the threads (see the photo on the far right). Don’t use excessive force regardless.

You cannot remove wedge or sleeve anchors. Instead, you need to cut them off using a grinder or reciprocating saw. For the City of Lakeland’s Florida Outdoor Sculpture Competition, we replace the sculptures every year with new ones. Each sculpture bolts down to a concrete pad using wedge anchors. Rather than cut them off, we actually drill all the way through the 6-inch thick concrete pads to install the new sculptures.

Set the Concrete Anchor and Tighten the Nuts

The next year, after removing the outgoing sculpture, we simply hit the protruding anchor with a hammer driving it flush with the surface of the concrete. The pad is instantly ready for us to install the new sculpture. Drilling all the way through the pad lets water drain through. Otherwise, water in the holes can freeze and expand, causing the pads to crack.

Once done installing the concrete anchors, tighten the nuts. While you can use a socket set or ratcheting open-end wrench to get in tight spaces. To save more time, especially when installing anchors with larger 3/4-inch or 1 1/8-inch bolt heads, invest in a cordless impact wrench. This really speeds up the process of tightening concrete anchors. If you don’t know the difference between an impact driver vs an impact wrench, check out a video we made on the subject.

Large Diameter Concrete Anchors

Large diameter concrete anchors, including Tapcon brand Heavy-Duty Anchors, have several big advantages over other types of concrete anchors. In particular, they can be removed, though not reused. Once removed though, you will not be able to reuse the hole. I have reused Tapcon concrete screws in noncritical, indoor workloads provided it goes in a freshly-drilled hole.

Another advantage of large-diameter concrete anchors is they can get closer to the edge of the concrete than a wedge anchor since they don’t expand.

Tapcon claims their large diameter concrete anchors are 20% stronger than wedge or sleeve anchors. They certainly install very quickly. You will not be able to install them with hand tools (perhaps the Incredible Hulk could). Use an impact wrench to install these large concrete anchors after drilling the appropriate size hole.

Lag Shields (Lead Shields) and Plastic Anchors

Lag shields (often called lead shields) and plastic anchors both work in the same manner. You drill the correct size hole, insert the anchor, and then drive in the screw. This expands the metal or plastic, wedging it in place. Use these for your lightest-duty anchoring. This goes double for plastic anchors—which we don’t recommend for concrete where you need higher pull-out strength. Plastic concrete anchors work for lightweight objects—perhaps 30 to 50 lbs depending on the size of the anchors.

Lead shields, while useful, have diminished in popularity due to the convenience of wedge and sleeve anchors. The latter provide a much stronger hold and most find them quicker to install and use. Lead shields do have one unique trick, however. You are supposed to use lag bolts with lead shields. You can, however, also use screw eyes (screw eyebolts) which have the same threads as lags. Lead shields are the only type of concrete anchor that allows this. Use a construction screwdriver to turn the screw eyes when it gets really tight.

At the Polk Museum of Art, we have lead shields permanently placed in our brick sculpture courtyard. In the event of a hurricane heading our way, we can install large eye screws in the ground, then lash down the sculptures to ready them for the storm.

Tapcon Concrete Screws

It is no exaggeration to say that Tapcons have changed the world. The first art gallery I worked in had brick walls and it was my job to hang the exhibits every month or two. It was such a huge pain drilling holes and installing plastic anchors. I would have killed for Tapcons back then, especially with an installation kit like the ones pictured below. Plastic anchors certainly didn’t do anything for the look of the walls after we removed the exhibit and all you saw were little colored circles on the wall.

Powder Actuated Fasteners

Powder actuated fasteners are sometimes called Ramsets, which is a name brand. They are unique among anchors in that they do not require drilling a hole first. Instead, they use a .22 caliber low-velocity gunpowder charge to drive specially hardened nails through wood or metal into concrete. While fast, they can rupture the concrete around the nail, shifting the board you were trying to attach to it. My personal preference is to use them in cinder block walls and use wedge anchors in concrete.

Toggle Bolts – The Often Overlooked Type of Concrete Anchor

Speaking of cinder blocks, one of the most used anchors for cinder blocks is toggle bolts. They take advantage of the hollow cavity in the cinder blocks. Squeeze the anchor’s wings together folding them up into the smallest possible dimension. Drill a hole just big enough for the wings to pass through. Next, pass the wings through the hole into the hollow cavity where they will spring open. Pull back on the bolt so the wings grab and then tighten the bolt. Toggle bolts are very strong anchors. In the photo below, I replaced the bolt that comes with it with an eye bolt so I could tie a rope to the anchor.

Installation Tools for Various Types of Concrete Anchors

Basic Concrete Anchor Kit – Ideal for Tapcons up to 5/16-inch Anchors

• Cordless hammer drill
• Masonry bits
• Tapcon bit or Tapcon installation kit
• Small bulb or another method to blow or vacuum out the hole
• Hammer
• Adjustable wrench
• PPE (hearing protection, eye protection, and a dust mask)

Mid-level Concrete Anchor Kit – Ideal for Tapcons up to 1/2-inch Anchors

• Cordless rotary hammer
• Masonry bits
• SDS Plus Tapcon bits and installation kit
• Dust blower
• Hammer
• Construction screwdriver
• Socket set or ratcheting combination wrenches
• PPE (hearing protection, eye protection, and a dust mask)

Pro Concrete Anchor Installation Kit – Ideal for Tapcons up to 3/4-inch Anchors

• Rotary hammer drill with built-in HEPA dust extraction
• SDS Plus bits
• SDS Plus Tapcon bits and installation kit (not shown)
• HEPA dust extractor (not pictured)
• 3 or 4 lbs engineering hammer
• Construction screwdriver
• Impact wrench with impact sockets and construction socket handle
• Leaf blower to clean the surface after installation if needed
• PPE (hearing protection, eye protection, and a dust mask)

PPE – Personal Protective Equipment

Eyes and ears. That used to be every foreman’s mantra when he saw the OSHA inspector coming. “Eyes and ears, boys!” meant everyone needed to put on their eye and hearing protection. Now, it’s eyes, ears, and lung protection. This is especially true when working with concrete which contains silica, a known carcinogenic. To put it in plain English: concrete dust can cause cancer.

We have several articles on the topic:

• OSHA Table 1 Compliance
• How to Buy a Dust Extractor
• Silica Dust Permissible Exposure Limit

Summarizing the Types of Concrete Anchors and How to Use Them

I have shown you many types of concrete anchors. There are actually many more than this, including hammer drive anchors, adhesive anchors, and epoxy anchors. You’ll find the ones in this article on most residential jobsites. Larger commercial or industrial sites might introduce the others. I have used every one of these for various reasons over the years, and each has its place. With the proper tools, all types of concrete anchors are fairly easy to install. Have fun drilling! I know I will.

The post Types of Concrete Anchors and How to Use Them appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Lighting has been a big part of what I do professionally for over thirty years. I am a professional photographer and videographer for the Polk Museum of Art in Lakeland, FL. Nineteen of those years were spent as the exhibits manager. An exhibits manager is the person that oversees the installations of the art exhibits in a museum, which includes lighting each work of art. Choosing between incandescent vs LED lighting and fluorescent and knowing the ins and outs of each lamp and fixture has a necessary part of my job…or should I say jobs.

At first, lighting wasn’t nearly as complicated as it is today. You had fluorescent or incandescent and a few other variants for specialized uses like mercury vapor, sodium vapor, halogen (a type of incandescent bulb), etc. When comparing incandescent vs LED lighting, you have a host of new things to learn. We hope this incandescent vs LED and fluorescent lighting guide helps you learn all the important things you need to choose the right products. That goes for your home, office, workshop, jobsite—even your flashlights! We can’t put everything in one article, so check out these articles for more information:

• 9 Things to Consider Before Switching to LED Lighting
• LED Jobsite Lights Buying Guide
• Flashlight discussion forums

Incandescent vs LED Lighting and Fluorescent – Pros and Cons

Just for context, an incandescent bulb is also known as a tungsten bulb. You probably know it best as a plain old-fashioned “lightbulb”. They come in many shapes and sizes. An Edison base or Edison screw base is used with most of these common lamps. Other styles include various sizes of pin-style bases and smaller Edison bases called candelabra bases. For a good size and base comparison chart of the different incandescent vs LED lighting bulbs, go to Bulbs.com.

CRI – Color Rendering Index

No matter if you’re considering incandescent vs LED lighting, you will often encounter a number called CRI. CRI (Color Rendering Index) is a scale that tells you how well the light renders accurate colors. Natural midday daylight has a CRI of 100 and renders colors faithfully. Incandescent lightbulbs also have a CRI of 100. Anything 80 and above is considered good. Anything in the 50 range is poor. Sodium Vapor street lights (the orange ones) have a CRI of 25.

Early LED bulbs were very blue in appearance. That LED lighting did a poor job vs traditional incandescent bulbs at rendering natural-looking colors. Artists, designers, hair salons, automotive painters, etc. will typically only work in 90+ CRI lighting. Clothing retailers prefer 80+ CRI.

Color Temperature – The Kelvin Scale

Have you ever purchased a new light bulb but the color it gives off is wrong? Suddenly, one bulb has a different color cast from the rest of the light bulbs. Your new lightbulb looks out of place. The new bulb might be warmer (more yellow) or cooler (more blue). You photographers out there know exactly what the problem is! It’s the same as the white balance feature on a camera.

It doesn’t matter what type of lighting you choose (incandescent vs LED vs fluorescent). The “whiteness” of each and every lightbulb is measured on the Kelvin (K) scale. This scale ranges from yellow to blue with daylight in the middle. Any lightbulb with 5000K to 5600K is considered daylight balanced and produces light similar to sunlight during the middle of the day. Bulbs marked 2700K to 3000K are warm yellow. These have the look of incandescent bulbs.

Bulbs at 6500K or above make people look awful. We don’t tend to see these very often. The one place I have seen them is in hospitals. They make every scar, every mole, and every skin imperfection show up. Perhaps this makes it easier to identify issues with patients—of course, that’s just speculation. Needless to say, you don’t want these bulbs in your bedroom!

4000K bulbs are marketed as true white bulbs being halfway between warm and daylight. I find they are actually pretty useless in most circumstances as they will not match either daylight bulbs or warm bulbs so they will look out of place unless you replace every light in your house with these. This is why you don’t see them that often on store shelves. Many shop lights and worklights, however, seem to come in this color temperature.

Color Temperature Buying Recommendations

Why We Like Warm Lighting

Since the dawn of humanity, human eyes have been using fire as our primary light source. Consequently, people look good when lit with firelight. In the past, the incandescent vs LED debate meant that, if you wanted to mimic the coloration of fire, you had to go with incandescent bulbs. Now, LED bulbs can match that fireside color (2700K). Using 2700K bulbs around your home definitely makes it look warm and cozy.

2700K bulbs in the bedroom will make it look more romantic. 3000K in the kitchen and bathrooms will make it look cleaner as the added blue makes whites look a little brighter. In the rest of the house, just make sure you use the exact same color temperature in each room. Don’t mix and match 2700K with 3000K. I also don’t like to mix brands. Each brand can have a slight tint to them toward either green or pink. Anywhere you have fluorescent lighting, you may have a hard time getting 2700K bulbs. However, you can find Kitchen and Bath bulbs which are usually 3300K and match well enough.

Cooler Lighting for Workshops and Garages

In your workshop, garage, family gym, etc, try to find 5500K bulbs. These give you good visibility for most tasks. You can also use these bulbs in your laundry rooms to make your whites look whiter and cleaner.

There are two exceptions. Artists usually prefer 2700K which is why museums use 2700K bulbs to light exhibits. Regardless of the choice of incandescent vs LED, that is the way the artists intended you to see the artwork.

Author’s Note: Check out our article on using color correcting gels in lighting applications to see how you might get even more use out of your existing lights.

Soft White is the Marketing Term for White

Lightbulbs used to be clear so you could see the filament within. This also made them extremely harsh (they cast a lot of hard-edged shadows). Then someone got the idea to frost the bulb and the term Soft White was born. Soft white bulbs are only “very” harsh, lol. You still see that term on some boxes, but these days, clear lights bulbs are considered specialty bulbs. You pay more for bulbs where you can see the not-really-a-filament within.

Woodworking – A Notable Exception

The other exception is woodworkers. Wood looks its best under the warm glow of 2700K lights, especially during the finishing stages. Most people’s houses are 3000K and below. If you are doing your staining and varnishing at 5000K, you will not see what your work actually looks like until you put it in your home or your client’s home. That is not the time to decide you don’t like the color!

Factories, Manufacturing, and Mills

It’s not all incandescent vs LED. Factories often choose Mercury vapor lamps because of the long-life bulbs, not because of the color accuracy. You will often see these in gymnasiums, large retail stores, and manufacturing plants with high ceilings. Changing these bulbs less often is a higher priority than worker or athlete comfort.

In manufacturing facilities and retail spaces that do require accurate color rendering, fluorescent bulbs in the 5000K to 5500K range were popular for a long time. Now, we see these facility managers questioning fluorescent vs LED for their energy savings and long life.

Steel mills will often use sodium vapor lamps. These have an orange tint to them and don’t render colors accurately at all but it hardly matters given the type of work done there. What they do provide is long-life bulbs that can handle high temperatures.

Bulb Life – LED Lighting Wins By A Mile

Incandescent bulbs roughly last 2,000 hours. Fluorescent bulbs extend that to 4,000 hours. LED lamps last 10,000+ hours for inexpensive lamps and up to 50,000 hours for some of them. I just bought a 6-pack of LED Edison style (the old fashion lightbulbs) for $9.99 at the grocery store. Each comes rated for 11,000 hours. These also use about 90% less electricity and the light looks just as nice as the old incandescent bulbs.

Keep in mind, however, that while the LED technology on these bulbs is rated for tens of thousands of hours, the electronics are much more fragile than an incandescent bulb. These bulbs are susceptible to static and electrical interference from storms and brownouts. That can decrease their life even though the lamp diodes work just fine. As far as we’re aware, warranties on LED bulbs can be anywhere from 1 to 5 years—but be prepared to pay shipping and provide proof of purchase to get one replaced.

Throw Angles: Spot Lights vs Flood Light vs In-Between

Traditionally, bulbs that were not a traditional “lightbulb” shape or which otherwise sent light in all directions were classified as either a spot or a floodlight. You can measure both spots and floods in angles. 10 degrees was normal for a spotlight and 30 degrees for a floodlight. Often, manufacturers did not mark a bulb as either a spot or a flood, they would only place the degree of spread the light would throw its cone.

There is generally nothing in-between a spot and a flood. If you need to shape the light and get something in the middle, some fixtures allow the use of barn doors. Barn doors are folding blades that originated with the movie industry. They let you block the light from reaching areas you don’t want it to hit—plus they look cool!

You can also shape the light on some fixtures through lenses. This works similarly to how theatrical lights work. More and more lighting from Hollywood and the theater has now moved into our homes, retail spaces, and business.

At the Polk Museum of Art, for years we kept 6 bulbs styles around in an outdoor PAR 38 bulb before switching to LEDs. We could illuminate anything with those mounted on their tracks. We had a 90W flood and spot, 60W flood and spot, and a 45W flood and spot. The three different wattages gave me three different brightness levels on the same dimmable track.

Now we’ve switched to LED bulbs at the Museum. A single bulb style with magnetic lenses that stick on the face handles many of our needs. These lenses change the shape of the light from either spot, flood, or oval. With this, we can shape the light beam to fit the shape of the artwork on the wall.

It’s a brilliant solution, but good luck finding them now!

Lumens, Watts, and Energy Use – LED Lighting Wins vs Incandescent Again

Watts used to be a good measure of the brightness of a lightbulb. The higher the wattage, the brighter the bulb…and the more electricity it used. Roughly speaking, a 90W bulb was twice as bright as a 45W bulb. For all you photography/videography people out there, you gain approximately one stop of light by doubling the power of your bulb.

The Wattage Equivalent Scale

With the advent of compact fluorescent bulbs, manufacturers had to come up with a new way to compare the brightness of different bulbs, especially incandescent vs fluorescent. They came up with an “equivalent” scale. As far as I know, there is no specification on what the equivalent brightness actually means. This is why some manufacturers’ 60W equivalent bulb is not as bright as others. You get what you pay for. Sticking with name brand companies like Philips, GE, or Sylvania typically gets you brighter bulbs than generic Chinese knockoffs.

So exactly how much more energy-efficient are modern LED bulbs vs traditional incandescent? LED bulbs are generally around 45% more energy-efficient than fluorescent. According to the manufacturers, at normal usage, every 60W equivalent LED bulb in your home costs about $1.10 a year to operate. Every 60W equivalent compact fluorescent costs $1.58. Every traditional 60W bulb you own will run you $7.23! All of this assumes the industry-standard three hours per day and $0.11 per KWh for electricity.

Note: If you haven’t yet made the switch to LED bulbs, check with your power company. They may have some sort of incentive program to help you make the switch or give you a price break after you make the switch, especially if you are a business.

Lumens

Most lightsnow give you a lumen rating. Even flashlights carry this specification. ANSI lumens is a good measure of how bright a bulb is. The Fenix flashlight I carry in my pocket all the time is rated to 1600 lumens and is brighter than the high beams of many cars.

Recently, when I was in the Publix grocery store, I noted that 60W equivalent LED bulbs produce around 800 lumens. 40W equivalent bulbs produce 410 lumens. Each package has a very clear chart that gives you the information to make an informed decision on exactly what each bulb will do.

Energy Savings Case Study

At the Polk Museum of Art, we have close to 200 track lights in our galleries. We run our lights 9 hours a day. This means when we used incandescent halogen lights, each lightbulb was using $65 worth of electricity a year. That’s $13,000 just to light our galleries! Once we made the switch to LED, our annual power bill dropped dramatically to just $600!

The Dark Side of Lighting

When comparing incandescent vs LED or fluorescent lighting, realize that all lamps have their pros and cons. Incandescent bulbs give off very pleasing looking light but give off too much heat and use too much electricity. Fluorescent lamps save on electricity, but the light is typically not as pleasant to work around. Fluorescent lights are also known to flicker. Many people are sensitive to the flicking and it can cause headaches. We just removed the fluorescent bulb over one of my coworker’s desk and replaced it with a LED lamp in the corner. Her afternoon headaches are gone. The flickering can also interfere with video cameras. Finally, fluorescent lamps have a ballast that periodically needs to be replaced. This can be expensive, particularly if you have to hire an electrician to do the work.

LED bulbs save the most electricity even vs fluorescent lamps. Many new mirrorless cameras have a silent mode. In this mode, horizontal patterns of dark and light appear when taking photos in rooms with LED bulbs. It is more obvious in the photo below when taking photos of an LED projector. This silent mode is the mode I want to shoot in all the time, especially when I shoot things like weddings. However, if I shoot a wedding in a church that has converted to LED bulbs, these lines are going to appear, just not as distinctive as the projector below but still noticeable. For this reason alone, wedding venues may wish to continue using halogen lights. Electricity saving is not as important since they may only be turned on a few hours a week.

RGB LED Lighting – The Latest Fad

Thanks to YouTube, TikTok, and Instagram, many people of a certain age are using colored RGB LEDs to light their homes, apartments, and dorms. RGB stands for Red, Green, and Blue. With these three colors, you can mix any other color. This look can look very nice or it can look incredibly cheesy. Kind of like the difference between Las Vegas…and Las Vegas theme night at church Bingo. Here is a good video on how to do RGB lighting the right way.

When in Doubt, Seek Professional Help…with Your LED Lighting

There are a LOT of options out there when it comes to choosing fixtures. So many that when I need a fixture for the Museum, I do not go to Lowes or Home Depot to buy one. Instead, I go to a lighting specialty shop such as the Lighting Hut in Lakeland, FL, and tell them exactly what I am looking for and my price range. Often, after developing a relationship with a supplier, they will actually come to you so they can see your space. They can work with you to find exactly what you need. That’s much better than having to settle for what the big box store carries. And best of all you are supporting a local business.

Fluorescent vs LED vs Incandescent Lighting Summary

In most instances, upgrading to LED lights vs incandescent bulbs or fluorescent tubes makes a ton of sense. LED lighting can typically provide more light and it’s significantly more energy-efficient. LED also lasts longer vs incandescent or fluorescent lamps.

The main drawback used to be price. However, LED bulbs, lamp, and fixture prices have dropped dramatically over the past decade. Lastly, LED bulbs tend to be physically more durable. This is especially helpful in tools like flashlights and work lights. Your biggest decision is likely to be choosing between 3000K or 5000K color temperatures.

The post Incandescent vs LED Lighting and Fluorescent Guide appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

So you have a piece of metal and it needs a few holes in it. No big deal you think. You grab your drill and a bit. Five minutes later when you have barely made a dent in the metal, you decide it is time to go to the hardware store for a new drill bit. After a few minutes, the tip of the new drill bit turns blue and you still haven’t finished your holes. You take it to a friend’s house. The guy that seems to know how to do everything. He drills all the holes in seconds. If this sounds familiar, read on to find out the techniques and tricks you need to know about how to drill through metal.

Starting the Hole (Finding Your Center)

Before you can drill a hole in metal, you need to find your center and start the hole. Without this you likely won’t drill the hole exactly where you want it. This is typically done with a center punch or something called a prick punch. You’ve likely already used a center punch. You just place the point on the location you want to start the hole and strike the end with a ball-peen hammer.

It’s important not to use a claw hammer because they are hardened—and so is the center punch. Never strike a hardened tool against another hardened tool or you risk it chipping. Significant eye injuries are caused this way every year. This is why hammers always come with the warning to wear safety glasses.

A prick punch is like a center punch except with a sharper point. Use it to locate a more exact point and then follow up with a center punch to make a deeper, wider hole. Note that the prick punch should only be used on mild steel and softer metals like aluminum so you don’t damage the point.

Many people swear by the automatic spring-loaded center punches favored by woodworkers. These are great in aluminum and other alloys. They will work in mild steel, but due to the fine point, they wear out faster than prick punches and center punches. To use them, simply line up the point and push down on the handle. An automatic internal mechanism triggers the punch.

Drilling the Pilot Hole into Metal

After locating a starting point for the bit, you want to drill a pilot hole. A pilot hole is a smaller hole for your final drill bit to follow. Pilot holes remove some of the material making it easier for the larger bits to bore straight through. When using my drill press, I skip pilot holes when drilling less than 1/2-inch in diameter. When using a hand drill, I make pilot holes for 3/8-inch and larger holes.

How to Drill Through Different Types of Metal

There are MANY different types of metal out there. Most of us typically use just a few: carbon steels like mild and stainless steels, aluminum, or alloys like brass or bronze. Machinists approach every metal differently and want to know the EXACT type of steel or alloy they are working with. They may specify 6061T6 aluminum for one part of a project and 3003H14 aluminum for another because of the stresses that particular joint needs to tolerate. They are often trying to achieve tolerances of 0.0001 or greater.

For the average person, think of three major categories: steel, stainless steel, and aluminum/alloys. If you run into issues from there, Google the specific metal you are using. Metals like titanium or armor plating take special techniques. Again, Google is your friend.

The Right Bit Choices Determine How to Drill Through Metal

There are many types of drill bits out there. We recently wrote an article on the best drill bits for metal. Below are the most important ones to have in your tool kit for metal.

High Speed Steel Twist Bits

High-speed steel bits or HHS bits cost less than many other metal drilling bits and you get what you pay for. When I was a young starving artist, I bought a set of cheap bits. The first time I used them in metal they literally unwound themselves. Ever since then I have bought Black & Decker Bullets, which are now branded as DeWalt drill bits with a pilot point. They work great in everything but the hardest metals like stainless steel.

I recommend titanium-coated bits for the best value in mild steels. Black oxide works well too and costs even less. The coating helps these bits perform better and last longer. The downside is that you cannot sharpen these bits when they get dull and maintain the coating.

Most HHS twist bits come in several tip designs and usually in either 118-degree or 135-degree angles. While 118-degree bits used to be made for softer steels like mild steel, aluminum, and other alloys, some manufacturers are switching more bits to use 135-degree split tips. When you want to drill into harder metals like stainless steel, move on to cobalt bits.

Cobalt Drill Bits

Cobalt drill bits are twist bits with five to eight percent cobalt added to help them stay sharper longer and remain more heat tolerant. They look just like HHS bits, though the color may be a little different. It is important you don’t mix them up with your regular twist bits. They cost more than HSS bits as well, but you can sharpen them as the cobalt isn’t a coating but rather part of the metal itself.

I don’t use cobalt bits for wood or plastics. With a cutting angle of 135-degrees, they actually don’t cut those materials as well. It has been my experience that the DeWalt Pilot Point Bits will also drill through aluminum more quickly than cobalt bits. Where cobalt bits shine is their longevity in harder metals. They can keep cutting where other bits would have gotten dull and ceased to be productive.

Silver and Deming Bits

A lot of people know how to drill holes up to 1/2-inch. The question remains, how do you drill through metal in larger diameters? The secret is Silver and Deming bits. They are named for the company that invented them and the name stuck no matter the manufacturer (kind of like Kleenex or Xerox). Most Silver and Deming bit sets can range from 1/2-inch up to 1-inch or even 1.5-inches. To stay safe, you should only use the larger sizes with a drill press and with the workpiece securely clamped down.

Step Bits

If you have never seen a step bit (also known as a unibit), they look like small metal Christmas trees. A single step bit can cut multiple hole sizes in thin metal. To use one, look at the scale on the inside of the cutter and see how many “steps” you need to feed the bit in to make the proper size hole. For instance, if you are using one that has ten steps to reach a 2-inch diameter hole, start your hole and carefully count the steps as you drill.

If the work is critical, stop at eight or nine steps and double-check the size of the hole. If you drill one step too many, you will ruin your workpiece. Also, make sure you use proper lubricant when drilling with step bits.

Drilling Holes in Metal Using Annular Cutters and Hole Saws

Annular cutters are like hole saws for metal. You can also use bi-metal hole saws for a few holes here and there in metal, especially in softer metals like aluminum. The experience is less than ideal, however. These saws are incredibly loud in metal and the hole saws wear out much more quickly. The task can also be rather dangerous if you don’t have the work clamped down to your drill press.

Once I was drilling 3-inch holes in aluminum tubing with a hole saw using a drill press. Unfortunately, I was inside a closed building. Someone from about 300 feet away came and asked me to stop because it was so loud, it made their teeth hurt. Imagine how I felt in the same room positioned just 3 feet away! Using hole saws on metal should only be done on very thin and tightly anchored sheet metal—like electrical panels. Drilling large holes in metal using a hand drill is just asking for an injury to your wrist.

Use annular cutters with a drill press. A tabletop drill press probably doesn’t have enough power to cut large holes in metal. This goes for either an annular cutter or a hole saw in metal. Annular cutters have more in common with milling machine mills than hole saws. They practically melt through any type of metal and are a joy to use.

Annular Cutters and Hole Saws Application and Pricing

Previously, annular cutters were extremely expensive. Now they are just moderately expensive. In the age of cheap Chinese tools, good quality sets can be found for less than $250 for a set of six that drill up to two inches in diameter. You will need a Morse Taper MT2 adapter for your drill press to be able to use annular cutters since most have 3/4-inch squared-off shanks for use in magnetic drill presses.

A magnetic drill press features powerful electromagnets on the base that lets it stick to ferrous metals like I-beams. They will even maintain their grip upside down. As you can guess, if the power goes out, or someone kicks the power cord, the tool comes crashing down to the ground. It is therefore critical that they be strapped down or tethered as a backup. Just a word of warning, the second time I used one I erased all my credit cards, so now I keep my wallet well away from these tools!

Use Heat & Cutting Fluid When Drilling

Once you’ve chosen your drill bit, you need to do one thing to make the bit last as long as possible—keep it cool. Cutting fluid helps remove the heat and flush away chips/shavings. Anytime I drill or cut metal, I add cutting fluid. This can be as easy as dripping some on the metal and bit before and during the drilling or cutting process.

One of the best ways to apply it is with a chip brush in a container of cutting fluid you keep around specifically for this task. In machine shops, their equipment has hoses, nozzles, and pumps that constantly spray cutting fluid/coolant onto the bit and workpiece. Drill and cut cast iron with no cutting fluid as it is the exception.

A variety of cutting fluids exist on the market today. Years ago folks would even use bacon grease! Not in my shop as I don’t want to attract roaches, rodents, or my dog (Editor’s note: Plus we know oif better uses for bacon grease!). Some people use 3-in-1 oil or even WD-40. I use WD-40 a lot when I am away from my shop and have to drill metal because I always have some in my truck. Now we have modern cutting fluids which are much more effective. My favorite is Tap Magic cutting fluid. If you use a lot of aluminum, Tap Magic makes cutting fluid specifically for aluminum. Beeswax also works great for aluminum but that may be harder to locate.

How to Vary Speed and Pressure to Drill Through Metal

Until now, we’ve talked about what you need to drill a hole in metal. This next part of how to drill through metal is entirely technique.

Technique makes all the difference.

The speed of your drill bit and how much downward force you apply to the bit is truly where the skill comes into play that will help you be successful in drilling metal.

First, let’s talk about drilling speed. As a rule of thumb, go S-L-O-W. On your hand drill, put it in Low gear (often represented by the number 1). On a drill press, slow it way down. More accurately though, there are numerous drilling speed charts on the Internet that will tell you exactly what speed you need to set your drill at for which material, and which size and type of bit you are using. Most hand drills will not set the speed this accurately, but drill presses will. When in doubt, you can’t go wrong drilling metal at the slowest speed your drill will run. It may not be the most efficient way to drill, but it will work without damaging the bit.

As far as pressure goes, the shavings will tell you whether you are doing it right. If you get dust or tiny flakes of metal, you are not pushing hard enough for the bit to cut properly. You know you are using the correct amount of pressure when you create long continuous shavings—several inches long. I often get shavings a foot long. Since they are so long, they eventually break off and whip around in the air. Safety glasses are a must.

How to Drill Through Metal: Breaking Through

The most dangerous part of drilling a hole in any material, but especially metal, is when you finally break through. Therefore, when you get close to coming out the other side, slow down and ease off the pressure. Hang on very tightly to the workpiece (if it’s not clamped down). There is a good chance the bit is going to grab it and try and yank it out of your hands. That is why it is so important to always clamp down the workpiece. It makes for an “exciting” time when you have a chunk of steel spinning around at 300 RPM trying to break something!

How to Drill Through Metal – Cleanup

After finishing your hole, resist the urge to sweep your hand across the workpiece to clear the metal shavings as you might do with wood. If you do, your hand will be itching for a week because of micro-cuts to your skin. Instead, use a chip brush. This is how they got their name! They are not meant to be paintbrushes. Chip brushes are for brushing metal chips away in machine shops.

After you clean up the drill press, also clean the floor and the bottom of your shoes. You don’t want to track metal chips through adjoining rooms. It is very painful to step on them barefoot and you never get them out of the carpet. You just keep stepping on them. Ask me how I know!

Final Thoughts

Learning how to drill through metal is not that hard. If you are using a sharp bit with the right speed, pressure, and a good cutting fluid, your shaving will come out 6-inches or longer. That is when you know you’re doing everything just right and drilling holes in metal becomes a pleasure…though still a bit messy.

The post How to Drill through Metal – Techniques and Tricks appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Thirty years ago marked the first time I learned how to drill through concrete or masonry. I had to run microphone cables at my Dad’s church during college. The job required drilling a 1/2-inch hole through 12-inches of solid cast concrete. At the time, I only had my new Black & Decker 1/2-inch drill—a drill without a hammer feature. After 40 minutes of pushing as hard as I could, I finally broke through. A few weeks later I bought a Bosch 1/2-in hammer drill and it was a game-changer. Today I have multiple sizes of rotary hammer drills and hammer drills to handle a variety of situations and applications.

Hammer Drill vs Rotary Hammer Drill

Since some of the tool names might seem counterintuitive from what you might expect, let’s start by defining a hammer drill vs a rotary hammer. Whereas a hammer drill adds a vibrating mechanism to a standard drill, a rotary hammer uses an actual hammering/percussive mechanism to drive the bit forward and back in a more deliberate manner. Check out our linked article for more details on how each works.

Editor’s Note: When you buy your next drill, you may want to pay the extra few dollars and get the hammer drill model. , In the event you eventually need to drill into brick or concrete, it will be well worth it. From installing a Tapcon or inserting a few plastic anchors into a concrete wall, a hammer drill speeds up your workflow significantly over a drill.

Only a rotary hammer lets you turn off the rotary movement and use the percussive motion alone. This is useful for using the tool with points or chisels for busting, carving, and scraping concrete and masonry. Of the two, rotary hammers drill through brick, concrete, and masonry much more rapidly. Also, note that putting a hammer drill into its hammering mode for materials other than concrete or masonry actually results in slower drilling.

How to Drill Through Brick, Concrete, and Masonry Using a Hammer Drill vs Impact Driver

We often get asked about hammer drills vs impact drivers. While not specifically designed for drilling concrete, the percussive nature of an impact driver lets it drill into the concrete just as well as a hammer drill. In some cases, because of their potentially higher RPMs, they may even drill more quickly.

Impact drivers have a lot of factors that go into when they start impacting and when they start slowing down. This means the age and moisture of the concrete, the bits you are using, and the brand/model of impact driver affect the speed of your work. If you want to use your impact driver, DeWalt makes a good masonry bit set for them.

Masonry Bits

Masonry bits differ from bits used for wood, metal, or plastics in that they have carbide brazed onto the ends. This makes them easy to identify. The thicker the carbide, the more expensive the bit. The length of the bit is important too. I find a quality set of 6-inch bits such as the Bosch Blue Granite Set lasts a long time and should serve most people’s needs unless you need to go deeper or larger in diameter.

For the larger sizes though, I usually want to use a rotary hammer drill, not a hammer drill.

SDS & SDS Plus Bits

Rotary hammers do not use regularly masonry bits. To manage the extra torque they produce, these bits use a different chuck style called either SDS Plus (SDS+) or SDS Max (for larger applications). On the shank of the bit is an indentation that locks into place when you pull back the release on the chuck head. This makes it impossible for the bit to spin in the chuck or come loose like a regular drill’s Jacobs keyless drill chuck.

I recommend keeping a set of 6-inch SDS Plus bits up to a 1/2-inch diameter. You might also want to have a set of 12-inch long bits all the way up to whatever the largest diameter your rotary hammer will support. Though I occasionally need both 18-inch and 24-inch long SDS plus—I tend to buy those as needed. All of these bits have come in handy at one time or another when installing computer network cable or displays at the Polk Museum. I have also used then when installing outdoor sculptures.

Rebar Cutters

Most concrete features embedded steel reinforcement of some type. A small pad may simply use thin wire mesh. Anything thicker than a few inches probably includes rebar. If you hit rebar when drilling, you have two options. You can either drill a new hole in a different location or drill through the rebar. It takes a LONG time to drill through rebar using regular masonry bits. Fortunately, various manufacturers have created solutions for this. We like both the Bosch Rebar Cutters and the Diablo Rebar Demon SDS-Plus and SDS-Max bits for this. They last up to 7 times longer than a traditional concrete drill bit in these applications and are well worth the investment. Where the Bosch Rebar Cutters are meant to only cut rebar, the Diablo bits can be used as your primary cutter.

Core Bits

A core bit is like a hole saw for concrete. While you can drill small-diameter holes a few inches or less using a rotary hammer drill, larger holes require a different accessory. For these, you want to use large diamond core bits. These require a core drill big enough to handle the torque and weight of these bits. The Milwaukee MX FUEL Core Drill is basically a wall-mounted version of a drill press. It is cordless so it is expensive. Cheaper corded ones are available on Amazon for about $500. Just remember a 6-inch diamond core bit can also go for several hundred dollars. Often, you can rent these tools. Those in the trades who often need to drill large holes through concrete tend to buy these tools and keep them well-maintained.

How to Drill Through Brick, Concrete & Masonry: Dust Collection

One of the problems with drilling into concrete and masonry is the presence of silica in the dust. Silica is a known carcinogen which means it is known to cause cancer. OSHA now mandates dust exposure levels. We have done an article to help you figure out how to get into compliance. Many new rotary hammer drills either come with a vacuum attachment for a dust extractor or have a dust extractor built-in.

How to Drill Through Brick, Concrete & Masonry – Techniques

Regular Drill

If you need to drill into concrete with a regular drill (and no hammer feature) your best bet is to “accidentally” spill a drink inside the opening of the tool. Then, tell your significant other that you need to buy a new drill. This time get a hammer drill! In case your spouse is watching and you can’t do that, you have to do it the hard way. Push REALLY hard. As hard as you can without binding up the drill. Who knows, you may get lucky and burn out your drill motor!

OK, now let’s get serious.

If you feel like you get stuck, which can happen if you hit a piece of stone, pull the drill back a couple of inches and slam it forward while the drill is running at full speed. If you do this a few times you can hopefully crack the stone that is in your drill path. If you still feel like it is stuck, look at the drill bit tip. See if you see metal shavings. If you do, you likely hit some rebar. Start a new hole. And keep pushing hard!

Hammer Drill

Most people make one major mistake with hammer drills. They push way too hard. This is the opposite of a regular drill. If you push hard, you prevent the vibrating mechanism from doing its thing. You want to put just a moderate amount of pressure, but not enough that you can hear the tool slow down. Do this, and you’ll drill holes much more quickly. As a secondary benefit, not pushing too hard and letting the tool work extends your battery life.

Before I bought a rotary hammer, I regularly drilled up to 5/8-inch holes in concrete using a hammer drill. To drill holes that big, first drill 3/8-inch holes. We refer to this as a pilot hole. Then, use a 1/2-inch bit to expand the hole and remove more material. Finally, use a 5/8-inch bit to finish off the hole.

For the most part, we don’t recommend drilling holes larger than 1/2-inch in concrete with a hammer drill unless you have to. A rotary hammer does the job so much more quickly.

Rotary Hammer

You don’t really have to push down hard on a rotary hammer when drilling. The weight of the tool alone is often enough to drive it. You want the impact mechanism to be able to freely move back and forth without having to fight you in addition to the concrete. This is what makes rotary hammers seem to melt through the concrete so effortlessly. Your only job is to keep the bit at the correct angle. To help me stay perfectly centered, I use pilot holes when drilling anything larger than 5/8-inch in diameter.

Cleaning Up After Drilling Through Brick, Concrete, and Masonry

After you drill your hole, do not blow it out. I used to keep an air bulb with my rotary hammer drill so I could blow out the hole without getting a face full of dust. Nowadays, OSHA requires the hole to be vacuumed out with a HEPA-rated dust extractor. Small cordless OSHA-compliant dust extractors are a huge help and should be on everyone’s shopping list.

Buying vs Renting Equipment

My personal opinion is that everyone should own a cordless hammer drill. Period. If you own a drill, it needs to be a hammer drill, not a regular drill. You never know when you will need to hang a hook on a cinderblock wall, install brackets for Christmas lights on brick, or screw down a mat to your garage floor.

If you work in the trades, you will probably need to buy a decent rotary hammer drill. Homeowners can usually get by renting a rotary hammer drill from their local rental center or Home Depot. Smaller rotary hammer drills are not that expensive. Often you can find a 7/8-inch rotary hammer drill (without battery) for less than $200. Many tradesmen buy a small rotary hammer for day-to-day use and rent the big ones only when they need to drill a huge hole.

How to Drill Through Brick, Concrete, & Masonry – Summary

As long as you have the right drill type for the job and the correct bit, drilling concrete is not a difficult job. If you comply with OSHA dust regulations, drilling concrete is not nearly as messy as it used to be as either.

The post How to Drill Through Brick, Concrete, and Masonry appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

If you work on a construction site long enough, chances are you are going to have to learn how to work safely around cranes. Cranes set rafters. They install HVAC units on roofs. Cranes even assemble steel beams. In our case, however, we use cranes to install very heavy sculptures. Consequently, crane safety and using cranes safely is a very big deal.

While working for the Polk Museum of Art, twenty-two years ago I helped create the Florida Outdoor Sculpture Competition with the City of Lakeland. Our local power company, Lakeland Electric, helps us use their cranes safely to install some of our heavier sculptures each year.

Mind the Load

On a construction site, you will find more than just cranes. Telescopic forklifts known as telehandlers are a combination forklift and crane. Telehandlers lift heavy loads on pallets to second, third, or fourth-floor heights. To install a new roof, we used a telehandler recently at the Polk Museum of Art.

When raising the load, never let anyone get near the load. This is the single most important rule when using a telehandler.

You should also never use them to raise a person. Manlifts (high-maintenance platforms) are for lifting people and provide safety mechanisms for this purpose. In general, all safety rules for cranes apply to telehandlers and manlifts.

Crane Safety 101 – Wear Proper Safety Equipment

When it comes to working around cranes, wear a hard hat! No piece of safety equipment or PPE is more important than a hard hat. In fact, another name for the hook on a crane is a “headache”. Guys often say “headache coming your way” to let you know the hook is coming toward you.

Second to the hard hat is a high-visibility safety vest or clothing. These make sure the crane operator (and your fellow workers) can see you. This is extremely important when he or she is guiding several tons of materials in your direction.

Steel-toe boots are important in case a load slips and lands on your foot. Companies often require steel-toe shoes. When working around a crane individuals can be disciplined, fined, or even fired for not wearing steel-toe shoes.

Finally, traffic cones are a must. Crane operators keep them on the crane for placement around their outriggers. However, you will often need to put them out even before the crane arrives on-site. This serves to reserve a parking location for the crane. You may need to close traffic lanes when the crane is in operation.

Crane Safety – Traffic Control

Traffic control is a big part of crane safety. You are not just trying to keep workers safe but also the general public and any onlookers. Traffic control doesn’t start when the crane shows up on site. It usually starts a few days before at a minimum. Plan where the crane is going to be placed. Plan where the crane is actually able to lift from (we call that a pick point). Take note of any overhead obstructions such as powerlines, etc. You also need to know the weight of the object you are lifting. Once you know all this, then you can determine if you need to reroute traffic or block off parking spaces.

Blocking The Streets

In the Florida Outdoor Sculpture Competition, we have to reserve enough parking spaces for the crane and the artist with their trailer. Then, when we actually do the pick (lifting the sculpture off of the trailer) we need additional personnel or police to help block the city street for about 10 to 20 minutes. It is very tempting for the traffic control personnel to watch the installation of the sculpture because you don’t see that happening every day. It is however much more important that they pay attention to what they are doing. Here, traffic safety equals crane safety!

Crane Safety with Respect to Rigging

Rigging is the act of attaching the load to a crane. On smaller jobsites, the foreman or construction engineer has this responsibility. Bigger jobs include a dedicated rigger who is responsible for doing this. Doing rigging properly is complex. Each load requires “back of the napkin” math/engineering. When in doubt, go stronger than you need!

Slings will have three weight ratings on them corresponding to the sling configuration. One rating is for a choke, one is for a basket and one is for straight vertical suspension. Each configuration or method of attaching the load changes the maximum weight rating of the sling.

Choker is what most people seem to prefer because it is the most secure, but it is also the weakest. Therefore buy bigger slings that you think you will need. The age and condition of the slings and even the weather change your calculations too. All of this is well beyond the scope of this article. See IPT’s Crane and Rigging Training Manual for more information.

Using Cranes Safely – Area Awareness and Body Position

When working around any sort of heavy machinery, you have to be aware of your surroundings. This applies doubly so when it comes to using cranes safely. You not only have to look all around you, but now you have to look up as well! Effective crane safety begins on the ground—always know where the load is. Never get underneath it.

This includes any time the load is low to the ground. Keep your feet out from underneath the load. In the event we do have to get under a load—like when we need to install bolts to secure it—we always block it up on wood beams like railroad ties or on the edge of the trailer/truck. This ensures the piece cannot physically fall on us.

That First, Most Dangerous Moment

One of the most dangerous times during a pick is when the load first comes up off the ground or trailer. No one is exactly sure how it is going to behave. The load can tip over if it is not balanced. There is nothing scarier than a few tons of weight suddenly out of control. This is the point where someone can get a limb crushed, get a part of their body amputated, or even killed. Using cranes safely means you have to pay attention!

Make sure you are never between the load and another object. An example would be between the load and a vehicle, tree, or building. When the load is low to the ground, I like to keep a hand on it so I can feel any movement it makes while I scout the surroundings for obstacles. If other people are doing the same thing, make sure you are not fighting each other, all pushing in different directions. People experienced around cranes will let the load go where the crane operator is taking it. They are just there to keep it from spinning out of control which can be a disaster.

Tag Line

When the load gets too high to comfortably keep a hand on it to keep it from spinning, that is where a tag line comes in. Tag lines are ropes that you tie to the load to control it. Always keep one handy when using a crane.

Hand Signals or Radio Commands

When arriving on-site, the crane operator needs to figure out who is in charge. He or she needs to identify the foreman, rigger, or whoever is giving commands. They are the only person who should be giving commands to the operator. While only one person can give hand signals, anyone can call an emergency stop.

Obviously, construction sites make lots of noise. This noise makes it difficult, if not impossible, to hear spoken directions. Using cranes safely requires good communication regardless. Often the crane operator cannot see what he or she is doing. It is up to someone else such as a site supervisor, foreman, or rigger to give hand signals to the crane operator. Most sites use hand signals. Commercial sites with tower cranes usually use radios for communications.

Hand Signals Case Study

At the Polk Museum of Art, we have a sculpture garden with a 12-foot solid brick wall all the way around the garden. When we get sculptures delivered, I usually have to get on an extension ladder and climb on top of the wall. From there I can give hand signals to the crane operator who is totally blind to what is going on inside the sculpture garden.

He or she has to completely trust where I am guiding them. They must trust that I will not hit anything or overextend the boom too far for the weight we are lifting, etc.

Crane Safety Basics – Summary

This article covers the basics of crane safety for small to medium size construction sites. To learn more about the commercial/industrial side of cranes and rigging, check out Dale at Rigging & Crane Tips YouTube channel. For the most part, crane safety is common sense. It does require that you pay attention at all times. You cannot slack off or lose your focus. If you do, you could seriously injure yourself or someone else.

The post Crane Safety Basics – Working Safely with Cranes appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

The heart of most woodworking shops is a table saw. Even when you have the choice of using a Festool track saw, panel saw, or any of the various types of miter saws, the table saw still reigns king for most woodworkers. Of all the tools, the best table saws provide tons of versatility. With the right jigs, you can cut box joints, spline joints, tenons for mortise and tenon joints, and many more. This table saw guide should get you started regardless of your skill level. Knowing how to use a table saw lets you do anything from cutting sheet goods down to size to making very small parts for models or crafts.

Using a homemade crosscut sled for your table saw, you can crosscut boards more accurately than you can with a miter saw. Taper jigs let you make cuts that are difficult to do by any other method (but not impossible). My cabinetmaker teacher who taught me how to use a table saw in college could even make an entire round bowl using nothing but a table saw! Here is a video by Colin Knecht of WoodWorkWeb.com using a similar technique. 

How to Use a Table Saw: Let’s Start With the Types of Saws

Rather than go over the various types of table saws again, we can summarize under the categories of benchtop, jobsite, contractor, and cabinet table saws. We also wrote a helpful table saw buying guide. There is one saw type worth mentioning again—the sliding table saw. I own a small version of this saw that you see pictured in many of the photos.

Sliding table saws, also known as European table saws are industrial saws. They are huge. Much bigger than cabinet saws. The advantage of them is they can take full sheets of plywood and push them through the blade on a movable table. This makes them the ultimate saw for accuracy and efficiency. If I had the space, this would be my dream saw. They come with a nightmare price tag though. A modest one starts at $5,000 and I have seen them as high as $15,000. Ironically enough, about 25 or 30 years ago, Ryobi made an amazing smaller portable sliding table saw. This is the saw I have been using for the past 25 years. 

8 Safety Rules on How to Use a Table Saw

Let’s get one thing straight. Table saws are one of the most dangerous tools in the shop. According to the National Consumers League, every year 40,000 people go to the Emergency Room because of table saw accidents. Every day 10 amputations occur from a table saw. This table saw guide should help you avoid some of that.

I am not telling you this to scare you off from using one. It is usually not the new users learning how to use a table saw that get hurt. It’s often those who have used them for years. We can get too complacent and forget the safety rules. Always be careful, follow the rules below, and you should be okay.

Rule #1 – Don’t Cut Rough Sawn, Cupped, or Warped Lumber on the Table Saw

Table saws are meant to cut wood that is finished (dressed) on at least one face and one edge. The smooth finished face rides down on the table and the finished edge goes against the fence. Cutting cupped or warped wood on the table saw can pinch the blade and lead to kickback. Kickback is where the blade grabs the wood and hurls it back at you at over 120 MPH (193 KPH)! Kickback is the number one way people get injured on table saws. 

Some Quick Math: My table saw uses 10-inch blades and spins at 4,800 RPM. That means the teeth are traveling at approximately 150,816 inches per minute (or 9,048,960 inches per hour). Covert inches into miles and that translates into 142.82 miles per hour! Under load, the blade slows down which is why I estimated 120 MPH earlier. 

Rule #2 – Prevent Kickback by Never Using the Miter Gauge and Rip Fence at the Same Time

When you do, the piece that gets cut off can get trapped between the blade and the fence. This can lead to kickback. Instead, move the fence far away from the blade when using the miter gauge. You can still use the fence as a stop, but you need to put a stop block in between the fence and the end of the wood. If this table saw guide teaches you anything—ensure you only use one of these at a time.

Rule #3 – Always Use the Riving Knife and Guard as Much as Possible

Guards keep your fingers/hand out of the saw blade. Riving knives reduce kickbacks. These safety mechanisms work by preventing the wood from pinching the blade. It also does this by keeping the wood from twisting—preventing the teeth on the backside of the saw blade from lifting the piece up and throwing it at your body! 

There are a lot of people out there who immediately remove the guards as soon as they get their hands on a table saw. This is a bad idea and is the equivalent of cutting the seatbelts out of your car because in some instances it is not convenient to use.

Newer table saws have guards that are much easier to use than older saws. If you have an older saw like mine that is not as easy to use as a modern saw, at least always use a riving knife. Keep in mind, there are some instances where you have to remove it, such as when you use a dado blade. 

Rule #4 – Keep Your Fingers and Hands Away From the Blade

Do I really have to say this? Well, I have watched the dumb things people do on YouTube, so… yes, yes I do. Imagine a laser beam in line with the blade. When you start making your cut, keep both hands out of this line and NEVER put your hands in line with the blade while operating the saw.

When I am making a cut I am focused on the wood where it is contacting the fence. I am also focused on where the wood is contacting the table. It is important to also concentrate on if the blade is following my line. I don’t have enough brainpower to keep track of where my hands are because my attention is divided too much already. Therefore I have made it a 30-year habit of always making sure my hands are out of the danger zone before starting my cut.

A table saw will cut off your fingers so cleanly and so quickly that you will not even know you have just amputated your fingers. Instead of putting your finger near that spinning blade see rule #5.

Rule #5 – Use Push Sticks When Proximity to the Blade is Unavoidable

If the table saw were an oven, push sticks would be the oven mitts. They keep your fingers attached to your body by giving your something to safely manipulate the wood. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes but this is my favorite set. These work with table saws, router tables, shapers, band saws, and jointers. You can also make your own. Make sure to keep at least one within reach at all times while pushing wood through the table saw blade. I keep one of these push sticks in my shop apron at all times.

Rule #6 – Never Use the Rip Fence to Make Cross-Cuts

A table saw’s rip fence is for ripping. The miter gauge is for crosscuts and miters. When you use the wrong tool for the job, you not only get poor results, you increase your chances of kickback.

Rule #7 – Always Hold Wood Tight to the Table and Fence at the Same Time

This particular point in our table saw guide both prevents kickback and also gives you the most accurate, straightest cuts. I often imagine my left hand is holding the wood like a pool cue with a couple of fingers wrapped around the left edge and my pointer finger and thumb on top of the board. My right hand feeds the wood forward while my left hand is pushing the wood down and to the right towards the fence in front of the blade.

For larger pieces, use a feather board if needed. Feather boards apply lateral and/or downward pressure against the wood to keep it tight against the fence or against the table. You can make them or buy them. When using feather boards, don’t put them so they apply pressure again the spinning blade or that can result in kickback. These are meant to guide your material through the table saw blade smoothly and precisely.

Rule #8 – NEVER Freehand a Cut on a Table Saw

You never want to freehand a cut on a table saw. That means never making a cut without using either the table saw rip fence, miter gauge, or some other jig to guide or hold the material. Violating this rule is an easy way to lose a few fingers or get a board through in your face. Enough said.

Table Saw Safety – Saw Stop

Years ago, Saw Stop came out with the technology to sense when your fingers make contact with the blade and almost instantly stop and lower the blade below the surface of the table. This revolutionary technology has undoubtedly saved many fingers from permanent injury. Today, Saw Stop is a manufacturer of high-end table saws with their own line of saws ranging from a portable jobsite saw, a contractor saw to full-size cabinet saws. If you are in the market for a new saw, it is worth at least considering. You will pay more for this saw technology, but if it protects you from a single injury, it would be well worth the investment.

Using the Table Saw Controls

When learning how to use a table saw, you will quickly find that every saw has the same basic controls. They may be in a different location or operate slightly differently, but when you learn to work one table saw, you can use them all. On the front or sometimes the side, you will find handwheels to raise and lower the blade. You will also find a and wheel to tilt the blade. On many saws, the handwheel to raise/lower the blade and the tilting wheel are combined into one wheel with a lever to shift its function.

Using a Table Saw for Cutting Wood

When you get ready to make your cuts, check your wood first. Look for rough edges that might catch on the lip of the table saw as you feed it forward. Look for loose wood or splinters that could poke you as you feed the wood forward. As annoying as getting a splinter is, do not be tempted to wear gloves while using a table saw. This is a very dangerous practice. The blade can catch the material of your glove and jerk your entire hand into the blade.

Another thing to watch out for is nails and screws in the wood. Examine each board closely before you make a cut, especially if it is reclaimed wood. Make sure your cut line is free and clear of metal. I recently built a rolling barn door out of old pallets that were full of nails, staples, and screws. A cheap handheld metal detector saved my saw blade as the wood was full of nails or staples that I couldn’t see.

If you do woodworking long enough, you are going to hit a bullet embedded in the wood. Typically a hunter missed their mark, hit the tree, and the tree healed over the bullet. Carbide blades can cut through the occasional nail or screw without much damage, just don’t make it a habit.

How to Make Rip Cuts

This guide keeps talking about how to use a table saw to make rip cuts and crosscuts. Let me define them more thoroughly for those who don’t know the difference. A rip cut is a cut that cuts with the grain of the wood. This is almost always the long dimension of the board as shown below. This is why you probably bought a table saw in the first place. A crosscut is a cut at 90 degrees to the grain of the wood. Miter cuts are any other angle cut to the grain. Most people immediately think of using a miter saw for making crosscuts and miters cuts. The table saw is perfectly capable of making those cuts in all but the longest boards.

With very long boards, it may take two people to feed the work through. The second person should hold the work with palms up like a shelf (see the photo below). THEY SHOULD NOT GRASP OR HELP PULL THE WORK AT ALL! This can cause poor quality cuts as well as lead to kickback since you now have two operators trying to control the board and they may be fighting each other without realizing it.

How to Use a Table Saw to Make Crosscuts

While I usually reach for my miter saw when I need to make crosscuts, if I am cutting small parts or need to be very precise, I use the table saw. A table saw crosscut sled (see photo below) is the most accurate method for cutting crosscuts in all but the longest board as there is always going to be play in miter saws. Crosscut sleds are also the safest method for cutting small pieces that are too small to be safely handled on a miter saw. Some woodworkers keep a pencil by their table saw and will use the eraser end as a hold-down device on a crosscut sled when cutting very tiny pieces.

There are many plans on the Internet for how to make crosscut sleds. Some are basic no-frills jigs like the one pictured above and others incorporate stop blocks, measuring gauges, hold-down clamps, and safety guards.

“My table saw came with a miter gauge, why do I need a crosscut sled!?” The answer is simple. The miter gauge the came with your saw has side-to-side movement in it so the cut will not be any more accurate than a miter saw. An after-market miter gauge is a different story. Many of them come with ways to take out the play and to make them slide through the miter gauge slot perfectly. If they don’t, or if you only have the original miter gauge, add layers of tape to one side of the bar to make it a precise fit. The downside is you will have to replace it periodically. This still does not solve the safety issue when cutting small pieces, so you still need a crosscutting sled.

How to Use a Miter Saw to Make Miter Cuts

When learning how to use a table saw, a necessary skill is learning how to use the miter gauge. Not just to cut crosscuts but also to cut miters. Many miter gauges have stops or detents at commonly used angles such as 45 and 22.5 degrees. The biggest mistake people make when cutting miters is not holding the wood securely enough against the miter gauge so the wood slips as it is being fed through the blade. If you are lucky this results in a poor quality cut. If you are unlucky, this results in kickback.

Many woodworkers will attach a larger wooden board to their miter gauge. This gives them more surface area to hold the wood against when making cuts. Others will go so far as to use spray adhesive and glue sandpaper to the wooden board on their miter gauge to make it extra grippy.

Pro Tip: After you finish making your miter cut, loosen the miter gause screw, flip the miter gauge upside down and put it in the miter gauge slot. Now push it against the front edge of your table saw which will be 90 degrees. Tighten the miter gauge screw, pull it out and flip it rightside up. You have just perfectly set your miter gauge to 90 degress without even looking at the scale.

Cutting Sheet Goods

Here I’m going to be controversial but this comes from 30 years of experience. Unless you have a big table saw with a big fence and a big outfeed table, I would not use a table saw to make the initial cuts on full sheets of plywood. Even then, if I needed really accurate cuts, I would not use the table saw. It is too easy to let the sheet drift away from the fence just a little. Full sheets are just too heavy and bulky to keep perfectly against the fence. I am sure some of you can do it. I can’t without a second person to act as a human featherboard, and I work alone most of the time.

In my cabinet-making class we got a letter grade off for every 1/64-inch off we were on our year-end project. If I want that kind of accuracy on full sheets, I am going to use a track saw. Once I get the sheet broken down into smaller parts, then I will switch from the track saw to a table saw. Track saws are great for large sheet goods, but they are slower to use. Once the sheet gets smaller than 4-feet by 4-feet, I will exclusively use my table saw. Finally, nothing beats a table saw when it comes to repeatable cuts.

How to Use a Table Saw – Dado and Rabbet Joints

You can make a multitude of joints with a table saw. None is more ubiquitous than the dado and the rabbet. While you can make these on the router table, they are far slower and require multiple passes. They also wear out your router bits much faster than a dado blade.

Using dado blades is actually prohibited by EN and IEC standards. That means you cannot use them in the European market. In fact, table saws manufactured there typically use shortened arbors so you can’t make your own stacks or buy them from third-party sellers. If you cant use a dado stack, a full-size (not thin kerf) flat ground rip blade works but you need to make multiple passes.

Dados and rabbets on the table saw are both made using a dado set. The main type is a stacked dado set which consists of two sawblades on the end and a stack of chipping blades that get sandwiched in the middle. By varying the number of blades along with some brass shims between them, any thickness can be achieved. If you use a Sawstop table saw, you need a different brake cartridge when using dado sets. You also cannot use a blade guard or riving knife with a dado set.

How to Use a Table Saw – Dust Collection

Table saws make a lot of dust. I mean they make a LOT of dust. They also throw that dust everywhere, including in your face. For this reason alone you should always wear eye protection. The blade guard on most saws will help keep the dust from flying up at you. Most table saws also come equipped with dust ports for either a shop vac or a dust collector. I always use them. Jobsite and contractor saws are open on the bottom allowing the dust to fall through and collect on the ground under the saws.

I always keep a large plastic bin under them to collect the dust, but it also gives me a place to toss my cut-off scraps. Cabinet-style table saws are fully enclosed on the bottom and therefore their dust collection works much better. That is one of the things you get for that higher price tag.

How to Use an Outfeed Table with Your Table Saw

If you have the room, and your table saw is in a permanent location, build yourself an outfeed table. This table sits on the back of your saw and extends the size (depth) of your table saw. It lets you more easily and safely push large boards and sheets of plywood through the saw. There are many plans on the Internet for how to build them. They range from simple tables to full cabinets with drawers and additional storage space under the table.

Make sure your outfeed table matches the height of your table saw. It should also not interfere with your fence. We also like when they allow the miter gauge slots to continue for a few extra feet.

Wrapping It Up

We hope this article on how to use a table saw proves helpful. Nothing beats experience. The table saw is such an amazing and versatile tool that entire books have been written on them. In fact, books have been written just on jigs you can make for the table saw.

Use this guide as a starting point and refer back to it as needed, especially the safety rules. Leave a comment below if you have questions and look for our band saw guide for another great .

The post Table Saw Guide: How to Use a Table Saw appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

A rock solid tool with a price that wont break the bank

Could you benefit from a battery-powered narrow crown stapler? We got our hands on the Ryobi 18V cordless narrow crown stapler (P361) to see if it might make for a good investment. At first glance, it looks like an affordable solution for DIYers or anyone working with wood fences, drawers, fascia, or other materials where crown staples make a great fastener choice. Our questions centered around runtime, and what materials it would work well with.

Pros

• Single- and bump-fire modes
• Supports 3/8-inch to 1.5-inch narrow crown staples
• LED light
• 18V ONE+ battery system works with over 225 tools
• 3-year warrenty

Cons

• 1-inch fasteners was the deepest it will drive into oak

The Case for Using Narrow Crown Staplers

Have you ever put together IKEA furniture or a cheap bookshelf system? The frame of these shelf systems remains quite frail until you fasten the thin veneer back panel. That thin back panel typically attaches via small ring shank nails. Professional cabinet shops build their custom shelves a little differently—but with the same principle in mind. Instead of small individual nails, they tend to use narrow crown staples to attach the backs. It provides a more secure hold, and the tools used to fire the nails speed up the process.

Editor’s Note: Check out our article on How to Use a Narrow Crown Stapler for some more great insights into using these tools.

Ryobi P361 Narrow Crown Stapler Performance

Pick up any of the Ryobi nailers and staplers, and you can really feel the excellent build quality. I am sure they can take a beating. It has rubber overmold in all the right spots both to protect the tool and also to protect the surfaces of any materials you may be working with. As long as you don’t set this on the belt clip, you can safely lay the Ryobi narrow crown stapler on a client’s countertop without fear of scratching it.

When it comes to driving the fasteners, I had no trouble driving 1.5-inch fasters in any material except hardwoods like oak. This should not be an issue as these are almost always going to be used in sheet goods, construction lumber, trim, paneling, or molding. In oak, I could drive any staple 1-inch or shorter.

Ryobi Narrow Crown Stapler Design Notes

Prior to picking up the P361, I already owned the Ryobi P360 “Airstrike” narrow crown stapler. It has worked well for me, so I was anxious to see any improvements Ryobi might have made. If you own the P360, you probably don’t need to upgrade. However, if you’re on the fence about buying a narrow crown stapler, the new P361 has a few welcome changes. Once Ryobi gets through their existing inventory this will be a rolling replacement to the older model.

The first “upgrade” is a simple sticker and a few other identifiers letting you know which Ryobi nailer you are picking up. You may not think it is all that important, but to me it is huge. I own five different Ryobi nailers and they all look alike. Having a way to tell them apart is very helpful.

Ergonomics

The handle is a little more ergonomic on the new Ryobi P361 stapler. Also, the power control on the top has been changed. Instead of a dial that was rather stiff and hard to turn (especially if you have arthritis as I do), it now features a lever that I found easier to adjust. When driving fasteners into harder wood like oak, turn the power up. When working with softer materials (or if your fasteners drive too deep), dial the power down.

Loading the staples is very easy. Press the release mechanism located near the battery on the bottom of the tool. The magazine slide opens, and you can install a new magazine of staples by dropping them in place. Push the magazine slide closed, and you can begin firing staples.

Ryobi P361 Controls

The Ryobi P361 narrow crown stapler has two modes: single-fire and bump-fire. I leave mine in single-fire mode all the time for more accurate positioning of fasters one at a time. With bump-fire, you hold the trigger down and every time the nose of the staplers comes in contact with the material it shoots a nail. This is faster but not as accurate unless you do this all day every day like a roofer. This method also comes with some safety concerns since it makes it easier for accidental misfires.

Depth adjustment is very easy on all the Ryobi cordless nailers. Simply turn the dial on the side to make the head of the fastener sink deeper or stick up higher from the material. The dial on the P361 is smaller but much easier to turn than the oversized one on my P360.

Ryobi Narrow Crown Stapler Price

The Ryobi P361 Narrow Crown Stapler is available at the Home Depot as a bare tool for $149 (supply issues notwithstanding). You may even find it as a kit for a bit more. That will include a charger and 2.0 amp-hour battery.

The Bottom Line

The Ryobi P361 Narrow Crown Stapler is an excellent tool for anyone who builds cabinet carcasses, bookcases or other box-type assembles and is tired of hand nailing the backs on. If you use a ring shank nail to hold thin sheet goods on, you are probably better off using a narrow crown stapler most of the time. Anyone with a lot of wall paneling or lattice to install should also give this a serious look. It even works great for installing or repairing fence pickets.

In my opinion, all of Ryobi’s cordless nailers represent the best value for a good price. They do this so well, I bought almost the entire Ryobi line of cordless nailers/staplers for myself!

Ryobi Narrow Crown Stapler Specifications

• Model: Ryobi P361
• 3/8-inch to 1.5-inch norrow crown staples (1/4-inch wide)
• Grip-activated LED light
• Single/bump-fire modes
• 3-year tool warranty
• Price: $149

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