I wanted to add some curb appeal to my front entrance. The concept of a DIY wood address planter came to mind as it takes only a few materials and a short time to build. With this quick and easy How-To build project, you can take an afternoon to complete the entire project.

Tools Needed to Make a DIY Wood Address Planter

You don’t need a ton of tools to complete this DIY wood address planter. The big picture has you fastening cedar boards together and adding the box and house numbers. After that—you just sand and paint! Not to worry—we include specific steps and details below.

• Miter saw (great excuse to buy one if you don’t already have this tool)
• Finish nailer
• Kreg jig or pocket hole system (preferred, but not required)
• Clamp
• Cordless drill
• Sander (corded or cordless)
• Measuring tape
• Pencil

Materials Needed for this Address Planter Project

The materials needed to make this DIY address planter include cedar boards, fasteners, hanger D-rings, glue, and materials for sanding and painting. The list stays wonderfully short, making this one of the easier projects you might take on this year.

• 1x6x6 cedar board
• 1x4x6 cedar board
• 1x2x6 cedar board
• 1-1/4″ exterior pocket hole screws
• 1-1/4″ brad nails
• 2 x heavy-duty D-rings
• Sandpaper (120 and 220 grit)
• Wood glue (I like Titebond III)
• Address numbers (I used Hillman 6″ floating numbers)

To save you some time, use this photo as a quick guide to the board sizes you need for this DIY project:

Steps for Building the Wood Address Planter

After you gather your materials, cut your cedar boards to size (see above). Cedar is naturally rot-resistant and holds up well to the elements. It should last for many years.

Cutting Your Cedar Boards

Using your miter saw, cut three 20-inch pieces from your 1×6 cedar board.

From your 1×4 board, cut one 20″ piece, one 18.5″ piece, and two 3.5″ pieces.

Glue-up and Pocket Hole Joinery

Flip your three 20″ 1×6 boards over to the back and attach them together using wood glue and your pocket hole system. For drilling, we grabbed a cordless drill from our Hart 20V brushless tool kit. It does a great job on projects like this.

Once the cedar boards are attached together, you should have a rectangle measuring 20″ by 16.5″.

Measure and Cut the Frame for the Planter Box

Turn your best miter saw to a 45-degree angle and measure out and cut a frame to fit using the 1×2 board. Attach the frame using wood glue and brad nails.

Assemble the Planter Box

Next, assemble the planter box. Using the pocket hole system, attach the 18.5″ 1×4 piece using wood glue and pocket screws. This will be the bottom of your planter box.

Editor’s note: See our article on how to use a Kreg jig to make pocket holes.

Next, attach the two 3.5″ pieces to the sides of the 18.5″ piece. Finally, attach the 20″ piece of 1×4 to the top, finishing your planter box.

Sand Using 120 and 220 Grit Sandpaper

Sand your address planter using 120 then 220 grit sandpaper until smooth and even. While you can do this by hand, we loved using our Hart 20V cordless random orbit sander.

Adding the Finishing Touches

Once everything is sanded to your liking, add your heavy duty D-rings to the back of the planter for easy hanging.

Stain your planter if desired. I like to finish my address planters off with a deck sealer that is UV and moisture resistant.

The final build step involves adding your address numbers. I prefer the modern look of the Hillman floating 6″ numbers, which you can find on Amazon.

Finally, hang, and style! Swap out your plants seasonally according to the holidays, or plant low-maintenance plants like succulents for year-round interest. If you’ve got a “brown thumb” but like the look of real plants, Hobby Lobby has some very convincing-looking fake succulents that are maintenance-free!

The post How to Build a DIY Wood Address Planter appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

You could have tons of reasons for wanting a laundry room makeover. In my case, I was in heavy nesting mode. I’d hoped to get to the laundry room before my baby arrived in April, and nothing kicks your butt into gear like being unable to fit between the open machine doors and the clothes drying rack behind you.

Supplies List

• 2) 4×8 sheets of 3/4″ paint/stain grade plywood
• 1) 2x6x8 board (depending on your washer/dryer dimensions)
• Wood glue
• Finishing nails
• Wood screws
• Drywall anchors
• Adjustable feet (for leveling)
• Metal L-brackets
• Metal flat braces (if needed)
• Pack of metal double hooks
• Stain + polyurethane or paint

Suggested Tools

• Table saw or circular saw
• Cordless drill
• Hammer or pneumatic finish nailer
• Level
• Tape measure
• Stud finder

After a particularly frustrating laundry day of multiple loads, waddling between machines, knocking clothes off the rack behind me, and dropping tiny socks between the heavy machines that I could no longer move by myself, I had had enough. I calmly and rationally asked my husband upon his arrival home from work if he would kindly help me redo the laundry room that weekend. At least, that’s how I’m choosing to remember how that conversation went.

My original plan involved building a waterfall countertop over the machines. This would prevent items from falling behind and between the machines—a major pain point. I also wanted mounting storage hooks for hanging up brooms, mops, and the ironing board. Lastly, I thought some floating shelves that pull out into drying racks (amazing design by Ana White) could top it off. After much debate, we agreed to pare down the “to do” list into something a bit more manageable. After all, I was 8 months pregnant! If my husband insists on being completely logical about our current situation I can’t argue with him.

We eventually nixed the floating shelves—but I highly recommend you check out her tutorial. Instead, I opted instead to buy a $10 bottle of chalk paint and add new hardware to update our ugly brown cabinets that come straight out of the 70s.

First Up: Building a Waterfall Countertop

I can’t tell you how excited it made me having a functional space to fold laundry or just set laundry baskets. This became the centerpiece of my laundry room makeover. Plus, when entertaining, it gives me an extra surface to stage and store food trays or drinks. I wanted to extend the countertop to span the entire length of the laundry room, but we have water hookups located to the right of the machines. Since I hope to eventually install a stand-alone utility sink, I needed to leave that space open.

To make the waterfall counter, you need a table saw or circular saw to cut the plywood at a 45-degree angle. If you don’t have one you could always forego the “waterfall” effect and have your local hardware store cut it straight for you. Just make sure to keep that cut straight, so you have a nice corner.

I based my design off Vintage Revival’s tutorial for her “$90 DIY Plywood Waterfall Countertop”. It’s a straightforward tutorial and you can customize your countertop with stain, paint, etc.

Because our machines were a little taller or wider than hers, I had to add “feet” to the bottom of our waterfall to make it reach all the way to the ground. Attaching a couple of pieces of 2×6 and painting them to match the edge was easy peasy. You can also run these boards along the entire bottom if you want more stability. It just may involve a couple more cuts. Screw straight metal brackets on the inside to ensure the base stays secure to the plywood.

Next Up: Space-Saving Drying Rack Solution

The idea of retractable/fold-up drying racks as part of this laundry room makeover appealed to me. Plus, when they aren’t in use they can fold up and out of the way. After all, there will come a day when I won’t have nearly as much laundry to do with a family of five. I had planned on building some things myself, but I found a rack that worked great.

This $23 drying rack I found on Amazon comes in two different lengths (I bought the smaller one). I used my own heavy-duty anchors with their screws that came with the rack. The anchors that came with it looked a little flimsy to me and I plan on really weighing this sucker down.

See our article: How to Use Drywall Anchors.

These $21 hanger racks came in a two-pack, so I mounted them side-by-side to hang clothes as pictured, or I also have the option to put a bar between them if I need more hanger room. The bar isn’t included in the package, but I imagine a wooden dowel would work just fine.

Finally: Storage Hooks & Hangers

Previously, my brooms, mops, duster, and ironing board were stacked against the wall on the floor, which just created obstacles for me to move around the laundry room. My solution was to mount a 2×4 to the wall, attach it to the studs, then buy a $6.29 pack of double hooks and mount them at the appropriate distances. Quick and simple! All you need is a drill and stud finder.

Wrapping Up the Laundry Room Makeover

So here’s the “before” photo so you get an idea of just how far we’ve come.

Quite a difference, right? Thanks for checking out my laundry room makeover! Hopefully, I’ve given you some ideas for easy and inexpensive changes to make in your own laundry room to make your life easier.

I’d love to hear what you think or see pictures of your own makeovers! Leave your comments below!

The post Laundry Room Makeover for Under $200 appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

This one goes out to all of those “quarantine” adoption animals. We just got our new puppy and I wanted to tackle a DIY pet feeder station. I need a solution that would:

1. Allow the kids to easily access food so they could help feed the puppy
2. Look good in a central location in the kitchen
3. Grow with our pet, and
4. Make clean-up easy and quick

My latest DIY pet feeding station build is my solution. This attractive unit tucks perfectly into the corner of the kitchen. It saves space, incorporates food storage, and has an adjustable bowl height for our growing pup. Finally, it includes a “food guard” around the bowls to keep the kibbles and water on the platform instead of all over the floor.

Tools Used

• Circular saw
• Drill
• Brad nailer
• Jigsaw
• Clamps
• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Speed square (optional)
• Eye + ear protection

DIY Pet Feeder Materials List

• 4×8 sanded plywood sheet (I used 1/2-inch primed blonde wood)
• Scrap 1x1s
• 3/4-inch screws
• 1-inch brad nails
• Wood glue (I like Titebond)
• Set of hinges
• Handle or knob
• Paint or stain
• Weatherstrip
• Pet food container
• Dog bowls

Cuts Made for This Project

• 2) 24 x 21 in. plywood
• 2) 24 x 15 in. plywood
• 19 x 16 in. plywood
• 19 x 20.5 in. plywood
• 21 x 16 in. plywood
• 21 x 35 in. plywood
• 2) 18 x 1 x 1 in. pine
• 2) 19 x 1 x 1 in. pine

How to Make a DIY Pet Feeder Station | Step by Step

Step 1 Making the Basic Cuts

Cut your larger pieces using a circular saw. We used a Hart 20V circular saw for this simple task. A clamped board can give you a nice straight edge for super-straight cuts.

Cut the corners off of the base piece (21″ x 35″) and the piece that will hold the bowls (19″ x 20.5″). Then trace out two circles (just a bit smaller than the circumference of the food bowls) and cut those out with a jigsaw. We used a Hart 20V jigsaw because of its convenience. Any jigsaw should work provided you have the right blade.

Tip: Make a large hole with a 1/2-inch twist drill bit to give the jigsaw blade a starting point. You can also use a paddle or spade bit.

Step 2 Rough Assembly of the Base

Attach all four sides of the box by pre-drilling pilot holes and then securing them with glue and 3/4-inch screws.

Step 3 Attaching the Bottom

Flip the box on its side and attach the bottom of the box to the base of the unit using more glue and 3/4-inch screws.

Next, align the 19″ x 16″ piece with the box and base and attach.
Tip: To attach the side of the back piece to the box, you’ll need to drill the screws in diagonally from inside the box. Use a small drill bit to drill your pilot holes first to help the screws go in at a 45-degree angle.

Step 4 Food Bowl Placement

Set your in-progress DIY pet feeder station right side up on its base. Use your tape measure to make marks at your desired heights for where you want the food bowls to rest. Given the breed and predicted size of my dog, I marked it out at 7” and 12” from the bottom of the unit.

Using clamps, secure the 1 x 1-inch strips alongside your marks, and attach using glue and brad nails.

Step 5 Painting or Staining Your DIY Pet Feeder Station

Paint or stain the DIY pet feeder station including the lid and the food bowl holder. You can go with any desired color or finish. I chose a gloss white latex trim paint that I already had in the garage. It’s easy to scrub and maintain.

Step 6 Attaching the Hinged Lid

You want to be able to access the inside of your DIY pet feeder station. This lets you store and access food as needed. Attach the storage lid to the box using hinges. YOu can pick up any kind of hinges online or via your local home improvement warehouse store.

For the handle, just drill a hole (or holes) in the top of the lid and attach the handle of your choice. You should even be able to find something that matches the hardware of your nearest cabinets.

Step 7 Wrapping It Up!

Drop the food storage Tupperware into the box (it should fit nice and snug), slide the food bowl holder onto the bottom level for your pup, and enjoy!

I found a storage basket that fits underneath the bowls, which is where I keep his dog toys and leash. Here’s the link to the basket on Amazon.

Step 8 (Optional) Tweaking!

I found that the bowls I ordered slid around a bit too much as the puppy ate, so I cut a piece of rubber weatherstrip (the kind you put around a door) and tacked it around the perimeter of each hole. This keeps the bowl nice and snug.

I hope this DIY build helps all you pet parents stay a little neater, tidier, and more organized!

Happy building!

The post DIY Pet Feeder Station with Food Storage appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Some of my favorite memories as a kid are of visiting my godparents’ house for Halloween. Their house is nestled underneath a canopy of old live oaks draped with Spanish moss, which was the perfect setting for the Halloween extravaganza they’d host each year. They didn’t need a DIY spooky Halloween tree—they had several real ones!

Back then, the whole family dressed up in costumes that would put the actors from Halloween Horror Nights to shame, and they decked out the yard (and trees) with the absolute spookiest decorations. Their house was even on the news once or twice for their elaborate display—I kid you not!

While I may never be able to attain that level of Halloween awesomeness, I am trying to up my spooky decoration game this year. I turned my front porch into a haunted forest, complete with cobwebs, a spider victim, and a gnarled DIY spooky Halloween tree, reminiscent of the ones in my godparents’ yard.

A few inexpensive materials at the hardware store and a weekend are all you need to get achieve this look.

Materials List

• 4×8 sheet of 3/4-inch plywood
• Gap filler spray foam (I used 4 cans for my tree)
• Paint

Tools Needed

• Jigsaw
• Cordless drill
• Paint sprayer (optional, you can use cans)
• 2-1/2 ft 1x scrap board
• Smal box of 1-1/4″ screws

Step 1: Trace and Cut Out Your Tree Shape

Sketch out your tree onto the plywood using a marker. Be sure to account for the height of your front entrance so you don’t have to go back and cut it down later like I did. With the plywood propped up on blocks (or in my case, paint cans) I cut out the trunk base using a cordless Ryobi jigsaw. Once you cut out the main part of the tree, use the leftover plywood to cut out a long hanging branch (or a couple of branches depending on your design).

Step 2: Attach Your Hanging Branch

Flip your trunk and hanging branch over with the backside facing up and lay them on your driveway or a flat surface. Line up your trunk base and the hanging branch how you want them arranged, then place your scrap board across the two pieces. If you don’t have any scrap boards, you could even use a piece of the leftover plywood as a brace. Drill several 1-1/4” screws through the brace board and into the plywood.

Step 3: Creating the “Bark” of the Tree with Foam

Now that your branch is attached, flip the tree back over with the front side facing up. Using long, sweeping motions, spray the gap filler up and down the trunk, and from side to side on the branch, mimicking the look of bark. Leave some gaps and holes here and there to create space for shadowing.

Step 4: Spray Your Base Coat of Paint

I used a spray gun to apply the brown base coat of this DIY spooky Halloween tree, but you could use spray paint. Even a foam or bristle brush works in a pinch. Make sure to walk around the tree and check it from every angle to ensure you get in all the gaps and voids.

If you choose to spray on your paint using either a gun or can, make sure to wear a respirator. A standard dust mask isn’t sufficient. You can pick one up at your hardware store for around $30 and reuse it over and over.

Step 5: Shade in the Tree

Once the base coat was dry, my little goblins helped me shade in all the cracks and crevices with a darker color to give the “bark” a more realistic appearance.

Step 6: Secure the DIY Spooky Halloween Tree

Once the paint is dry, prop up your DIY spooky Halloween tree where you want it to stand and add supports so it won’t fall over. I wedged my tree up against the brick of my house and the roofline, so it needed minimal support to keep it in place. If you want a free-standing tree, you’ll need to add supports to the back. A simple support system using a couple of 2×4’s and gate hinges can be found here. I also recommend supporting the branch from the ceiling as well since the tree will be top-heavy.

Step 7: Spook It Up!

Living in Florida, I don’t have to go far to find loads of Spanish moss. For the finishing touch, I collected some from a friend’s live oak and hung it all over my tree. I’ve seen Spanish moss for sale at my the hardware store if you can’t harvest some yourself.

Consider adding hanging bats, rubber snakes, peeping eyeballs, or plastic spiders for an extra spooky element.

Thanks for reading my DIY tutorial! I’d love to see your take on the spooky tree, so feel free to comment below with your own “haunted forest” pictures!

Happy Halloween!

The post DIY Spooky Halloween Tree Project appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

I love our house, but from the moment we bought it, the focal wall in our family room proved to be a design challenge. First of all, it’s massive. Secondly, there are steps on either side of the room, which are only about a foot from the wall. This meant that when we tried to put furniture against the wall, it blocked the steps. I finally decided that floating shelves were what I wanted. Not wanting to make it too easy on myself, I also decided that I didn’t want to see any brackets, pipes, or use a kit. Might as well track my progress and make a DIY floating shelf tutorial at the same time!

Designing My DIY Floating Shelves

I didn’t want these DIY floating shelves to be too boxy. I also didn’t want to use veneer around the edges. A solid piece of wood should give me the look I wanted. For the installation, I need a method to give the illusion they levitated on the wall. No wonder my husband tapped out and had me start doing these projects myself. (Yes, he did eventually end up helping!)

After researching a TON of DIY floating shelf tutorials, I finally came across this one by Brit from House Updated. She used 2×12 framing lumber for the floating shelves in her kitchen, and they look amazing. I immediately read up on how she’d done her shelves and got to work on my own version.

Choosing Your Lumber

I went to my local lumber mill and checked out the selection of wood. The design of these shelves is so simple, you could make them out of just about any type of wood you wanted. Walnut is a gorgeous option, but who can afford four large slabs of that? Not this girl.

If you want the walnut look without the walnut price, thermal-treated poplar is an excellent option. It’s got a very similar rich brown color with amazing grain patterns, but for a fraction of the cost of walnut. I nearly went with the thermal-treated poplar for my shelves, but instead, fell in love with the purples, greens, browns, and silvers running through the natural poplar and ended up buying four slabs of 2×12 solid poplar.

If you don’t have a planer or joiner, ask the lumber mill to square up your slabs and plane them to a smooth finish for you (for an additional charge).

Materials List

• 12″ lengths of 5/8″ threaded rod – at least two per shelf (three if mounting a very long shelf)
• 2×12 lumber, cut to the desired length of your floating shelf (make sure you find nice straight boards)

What Tools You Need

• Cordless drill
• Level
• Stud finder
• Tape measure
• 1/4″ drill bit
• 1/2″ drill bit
• 5/8″ drill bit
• Drill bit extender that locks onto the drill bit
• Mallet
• Tap guide (optional, but recommended)
• Stain, oil, wax, or other finish
• Superfine #0000 steel wool

Now that you’ve picked out your lumber and know what tools you need, let’s get to work!

First, Have a Glass of Wine

Just kidding! I’m not going to lie, these are a beast to install. But don’t worry! I’ve included helpful tips so you avoid some mistakes I made along the way.

We’re going to get through this together and your shelves will look amazing.

Mark Your Studs

The real first step has you marking the locations of the studs in your wall. You need to use them as a guideline for how you want to place your DIY floating shelves.

I put blue painters tape on the wall to make sure I knew exactly where I wanted my shelves. These aren’t shelves you’re going to want to move after a couple of months because you aren’t happy with the location.

To find the exact edges, consider using a small drill bit to drill to the sides of the stud. I happened to use a large needle. You need to drill into the exact center of each stud to ensure adequate shelf support. Remember, each stud is only 1.5″ wide, so be sure to drill straight, my friend!

Start out with a small pilot hole of about 1/8″, then work your way up to 1/4″, then finally 1/2″. You need the holes to be perfectly level so the threaded rods go in straight.

The holes in the studs need to be just smaller than the threaded rod so that when you screw the rods into the studs, they’ll fit good and tight.

Pro Tip: Consider using a cross line laser to lay out shelves that need to go side-by-side. It helps you ensure they look level from across the room and counteract any potential inaccuracies in floor evenness when measuring manually.

Screw the Threaded Rod into the Studs

I found a pipe wrench was helpful for screwing the threaded rod into the studs by hand. The threaded rods need to go into the studs a full 3 inches.

Remember to keep those threaded rods straight! Use a level!

Staining or Finishing the Shelves

I loved the natural tone and woodgrain of my poplar, so I opted not to stain the shelves. Instead, I applied Danish oil to make the colors pop and to seal them.

Next, I rubbed on furniture wax using four-aught super-fine steel wool (#0000), then buffed them to a nice sheen with a terry cloth.

Feel free to stain, paint, or otherwise finish your shelves according to your taste.

Drilling the DIY Floating Shelf Mounting Holes

I used a tap guide to help me drill perfectly straight holes into my soon-to-be floating shelves. These corresponded with the rods which were already mounted into the wall studs.

Again, start with a small pilot hole, then work your way up to a 5/8″ drill bit. Each finished hole will need to be a total of 9″ deep, which puts a huge strain on your drill and the bit. I used a Ryobi cordless drill and it managed to get the job done just fine.

DIY Tip: Every couple of inches, back the drill bit out and clean sawdust out of the hole. If using an extender for your bit, make sure it locks onto the bit so it can’t come out in the hole.

Mount Those DIY Floating Shelves

If your shelves aren’t sliding on easily, waller out the hole on the shelf a little bit more. (Is “waller” even a proper word? Or just Southern slang?)

These DIY floating shelves may end up needing a bit of encouragement from the business end of a rubber mallet. Mine sure did.

Now that you’re all finished, go enjoy your new floating shelf display!

The post DIY Floating Shelf Tutorial | How to Do It Yourself appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

I was well into my second trimester and already hitting the “nesting” phase of pregnancy. I had an overwhelming urge to get my house in order before the baby arrived, and I had a handful of projects to knock out before then. Let’s call this DIY loft bed with desk project “Nesting with Power Tools”.

First up, I needed to get the playroom organized for my other two kids. Because, if I have an organized playroom, surely my children will be able to clean their own rooms and do their homework unassisted and my life will be amazing and wonderful…right?

I had plotted for a few months now to redo their playroom. My first project was floor-to-ceiling bookshelves. There, I keep all of the more cherished “please don’t rip the pages out” books up on the top shelves. The sturdier everyday books can live on the bottom shelves within reach. For this, I used Ana White’s simple DIY plan for “Ten Dollar Ledges” that you can find here.

Adding a Desk Underneath a Loft Bed

This DIY loft bed with desk would make the room more functional by giving my kindergartener a large workspace to do her homework. It would also serve as a comfy place to read. Plus, it frees up additional floor space for train tracks and puzzles.

My solution: a two-in-one reading loft above and workspace underneath. It would leave plenty of floor space for free play. This project works perfectly for a child’s bedroom as the loft portion fits a twin mattress perfectly.

My design modifies this plan to fully accommodate my vision.

Supplies & Tools List

• Tape measure
• Speed square
• Pencil
• Kreg Jig
• Drill
• Drill bit set
• Circular saw or miter saw
• Sander
• Pneumatic or cordless finish nail gun

In the link above, Ana White has already created a perfectly wonderful DIY for the loft bed. You can use her tutorial to complete the first few steps. After Step 6 we depart once we’ve placed the decking on the top of the stair platform.

You could also complete her build all the way through Step 9 if you wanted to build the staircase. I opted instead to attach two 2×4 rungs up to the deck to save floor space.

Helpful Tip and DIY Loft Bed Modifications

• My husband suggested using 5” lag screws to attach the side rail 1x6s for added support. Pocket holes are probably sufficient, but I’d rather overdo it and rest easy knowing the supports for the bed aren’t going to fail.
• Do all of your finishing work outside to avoid getting sawdust all over your house.
• Remember to assemble the pieces that you’re using wood glue on first, BEFORE staining, as wood glue will not adhere properly to stain.
• For a more finished appearance, use Kreg plugs (or wood filler) to fill in all the pocket holes after you’ve assembled the bed, then touch up the paint/stain.
• Remember to set the correct depth on your Kreg Jig before making those pocket holes. The actual width of a 2×4 is 1.5”, so adjust your Kreg Jig accordingly.

The finished loft built to Step 6 looks like this:

Adding a Workspace Underneath the Loft Bed

Shopping List for the Under-Loft Desk

• 2 – 2x4s
• Spruce project board OR 3/4” plywood cut to 72” x 20”

2×4 Cut List

• 1) 78″
• 2) 18″
• 1) 19-7/8″ **Read below + cut as you go
• 1) 14-3/4″ **Read below + cut as you go

First, build out the frame to hold the floating desk. To do that, decide how high you’ll want the desktop to be. A “standard” child desk height sits around 24-1/4” high (regular desk height for an adult is 29″). If you have a younger or older child you can go higher or lower. 24-1/4″ seemed a good height for a 1st-3rd grader and it gives them a little room to grow. If you want to go with this desktop height, measure from the floor up and make a mark at 23-1/2” where the desk attaches.

Attaching the Desk Frame to the Loft Bed

Use 2.5” screws to attach your 78” 2×4 to the bed, then check for level. We don’t want pencils rolling off the desk! After you’re sure the 78” 2×4 is level, go ahead and attach the ~18” horizontal 2x4s with pocket holes. Since the desktop will be 72” wide, measure 72” from the outside of your left horizontal support and make a mark, which is where the outside edge of your right horizontal support will need to be.

Use a tape measure to check the length from the bottom of your horizontal supports to the floor before cutting the upright supports for the desk. If you’ve had to adjust your board at all to make it level, you may find the cuts for your leg supports need to be a little different from the measurements above.

Next, attach the leg pieces with more pocket holes.

Attaching the Desktop

I had planned on using 3/4” plywood cut to size for the desk, but instead, my husband found a spruce project board for under $30 that was almost exactly the dimensions I’d wanted. You can do that or get 3/4″ sanded plywood cut down to 72″ x 20″.

After painting the desktop, I attached it to the supports using a pneumatic nailer.

Voila! You made a DIY Loft bed with desk! I added a lighting strip above the desk, but you can finish up the project however you’d like. I even found adjustable-height children’s desk chairs at IKEA for $35 each.

Thanks for following along with my latest project! Let me know what you think. Happy building!

The post Making a DIY Loft Bed with Desk appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

For the woman looking for a pair of overalls as tough as you are, look no further than the Liberty Womens Bib Overalls. Liberty cuts these specifically to fit women. The company seems to pride itself on manufacturing tough, durable, reliable workwear. So far, they seem to deliver.

Wearing the Liberty Womens Bib Overalls

Slipping on a pair of their “women’s cut” denim overalls, I expected them to feel heavy and stiff. Instead, I was pleasantly surprised to find them flexible and lightweight.

I tried out both the denim and duck fabrics. The denim felt best for everyday use in the shop. The duck fabric was great for tougher jobs—in my case clearing thorny brush.

The Liberty Womens Bib Overalls taper in slightly at the waist but are cut large enough throughout the hips and thighs to accommodate anything you’re carrying in the generously-sized pockets.

Speaking of pockets, Liberty made the front zippered pocket on these bib overalls large enough for a decently-sized phone to fit into.

Notes When Sizing Your Liberty Bib Overalls

While durability and wear get great marks, I do need to mention some sizing issues I encountered. I am 5′ 8″ and a size 6. My first instinct had me trying their Medium bib overalls. While they fit well at the waist, the length was too snug for me to comfortably move around in, even with the straps fully extended. If you find yourself on the taller side, I would suggest sizing up. In sizing up, however, I found the waist to be too wide though the height was now just right.

Liberty Womens Bib Overalls Specs

• Women’s fit
• 8.3 oz. 98% Cotton / 2% Spandex
• Iconic 5-piece bib pocket with durable zipper and flap closure
• Triple-needle stitching
• Adjustable bib straps
• 2 lower front pockets and 2 back pockets
• Utility pockets and twisted hammer loop
• 8.5-inch leg opening fits over boots
• Washed for comfort
• Colors: Brown Duck or Frosted Sage (Duck); Blue (Denim)
• Materials: Duck fabric or denim
• Price: $44.99

Final Thoughts

Overall(s), I would recommend wearing Liberty bibs for tough and dirty jobs where you’ll need durability, protection, and storage but don’t want to sacrifice comfort. If you have a longer body type, be aware that these might fit a bit loose. Other than that, we highly recommend them for the price.

You can get more information about Liberty Bibs here.

The post Liberty Womens Bib Overalls Review appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

This year for our anniversary, my husband and I decided to make each other gifts. He asked for a fishing rod holder to contain his rods and reels, which up to now have been stacked against the wall in the garage next to boxes of his fishing equipment. In an ongoing attempt to organize the garage, I decided that a two-in-one DIY fishing rod holder with storage system was what he needed.

I spent an hour searching the Internet for DIY fishing rod holder systems as well as several retail versions. I finally came up with my design, which combines a fishing rod holder I liked with a Lego storage unit with sliding drawers. You never know where you’ll find inspiration, amiright?

Ideas Can Come from Anywhere: I discovered that the Lego storage unit from the picture I liked was an IKEA system called TROFAST. My plan became to mimic the TROFAST system with some adjustments. Luckily for me, I have an IKEA close by, so I picked up a couple 4” sliding drawers as well as a set of shelves that go with the TROFAST system.

If you’d rather not spend time building the frame of the unit, you can opt instead to buy the TROFAST frame and add the top and bottom panels. If this is your plan, skip down to Step 3.

Building a DIY Fishing Rod Holder with Storage

Supplies List – Tools and Accessories

• Table saw (or circular saw)
• Drill
• Forstner, wood-boring bits, or a hole saw in 2” and 1.5” diameter
• Kreg Jig or other pocket hole system
• Eye protection
• Ear protection
• Dust mask

Shopping List – Materials

• 2) Edge Glued Panel project boards 3/4 x 12 x 36″
• (or 3/4″ plywood cut to size)
• 1) Edge Glued Panel project board 3/4 x 16 x 48″ (either cut in half to two 24″ lengths or 3/4 plywood cut into two 16 x 24″ sheets)
• 1) 1×2 or 1×3 for the braces (the wider it is, the more stability)
• 2) TROFAST 4″ deep storage boxes
• 1) TROFAST set of 2 shelves
• 4) 2″ Castors (optional, but recommended)
• Small box of 1.25″ pocket hole screws
• Wood glue
• Stain (or paint) in preferred color

Step 1: Make Your Cuts

To build the frame of this DIY fishing rod holder, you need two 16” x 24” panels for the top and bottom, and two 12” x 36” panels for the sides. I had originally planned to use 3/4” plywood, but found project panel boards in the dimensions that I needed and decided to use those instead. I prefer the look of the project panel boards over the plywood, but either one will do.

If you don’t want to make the cuts yourself, typically a hardware store will make the cuts for you for a small charge.

Step 2: Cut Your Dados

It may sound intimidating if you’ve never cut your own dados before, but I promise you there’s nothing to it if you have a table saw or router. I made my dadoes with a table saw, but if you have a router with a 1/2” straight edge bit, that will work just as well.

You’ll be cutting dadoes in the panels that form the sides of the fishing rod holder. These hold the shelves and the storage boxes.

This is where you can customize your unit according to your preference. The TROFAST system offers storage boxes at different depths (4″, 9″, and 14.25″), as well as shelves.

Decide which depth boxes and/or shelves will work for your fishing rod holder storage needs, then mark on the sides of the unit where you want them placed.

Customize to Taste

For my husband’s DIY fishing rod holder, I chose two shelves to hold clear plastic compartments for his bait and tackle, and two storage boxes at 4″ each. I left plenty of space at the bottom for his tackle box. If you have more gear to store, add more storage boxes or shelves.

Measure and draw lines on both side panels (double-check to make sure they mirror each other). When you are making your marks, make sure to account for the 1/2” dado you will be cutting.

Now it’s time to cut those dadoes! Raise your table saw blade up 1/4” and cut along the line you marked, then nudge your fence over little by little, cutting as you go, until you’ve cut a 1/2” dado into the board. Repeat for each of your marks. Use a wood chisel to clean out each dado to ensure the shelves and storage boxes will slide easily.

Step 3: Drill the Holes for Your Fishing Rods

This fishing rod holder I made can hold 9 rods. You could add more holes to the sides and back if you need more storage. I spaced the center of each hole 1.5″ away from the edges and about 5.5″ away from each other. Mark the center of each hole on both the top and bottom panels. Make sure they mirror each other so your rods stand up straight.

For the top board, you will need to drill all the way through the board using your 2″ Forstner bit or hole saw. For the bottom panel, drill down about 1/4″ using a 1.5″ Forstner bit, or just enough to make a holding space for the bottom of the rod.

After you’ve finished making the holes, cut 1/4″ slots on one side of each hole on the top panel, providing a space for the rod to slide into the hole.

I used my Ridgid table saw, but you could use a circular saw or even a hand saw to make the slots.

Step 4: Assemble the Frame

The sides of the frame need to be exactly 16″ apart from the inside edge. This will provide enough space for the shelves and storage boxes to slip snuggly into the dadoes.

On the top and bottom panels, make a mark at the exact center. Then measure out 8” towards the right side and 8” towards the left side and make your marks. The inside edge of the side panels should touch this mark. The side panels should be flush with what will be the front of the frame.

Attach the sides to the top and bottom using wood glue and pocket holes. For additional strength, you could also drill a couple 2-1/2″ wood screws through the top and bottom panels into the side panels.

See our article: How to use a Kreg Jig to make pocket holes.

Step 5: Add Braces for Stability

I had scrap 1x2s laying around, so I cut two 16” lengths and attached one to the top and one to the bottom on the back of the frame with pocket holes for extra stability.

Step 6: Customize Your DIY Fishing Rod Holder

I recommend adding castors to the bottom for easy mobility. After you’ve added them, sand and then stain or paint the project to your preference. I wood burned a snook onto the top as a nod to my husband’s love of saltwater flats fishing.

Thanks for following along with my tutorial! I’d love to see your versions of this project. Leave a comment below!

The post DIY Fishing Rod Holder with Storage appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.