Ridgid Has Released A New Diagnostic Inspection Tool– This Time With The More Advanced TruSense Technology

Ridgid’s SeeSnake microReel APX now uses TruSense technology to ensure images are displayed upright. It also uses bright LED lights for a clearer, more detailed picture compared to previous models. This is important since it is often difficult to maneuver a camera line while it is inside a pipe.

SeeSnake microReel APX | The Big Deal

Of course, the main draw to this new diagnostic inspection camera kit is the updated TruSense technology, as stated above. Along with a bright LED light on the camera tip, these features can help eliminate many of the issues users have with other borescopes on the market. It also incorporates Auto-image flip to help ensure that the bottom of the pipe stays at the bottom of the monitor.

Paired with the CSx Via, which lets you view the picture on your own device, the in-pipe camera resolution is 640×480. This is a comparable resolution to their past diagnostic inspection models, like the SeeSnake Standard Camera with TruSense, for example. It also has an added bonus of screen variability since the CSx Via pairs with almost any screened device.

SeeSnake microReel APX Additional Features

• Wifi-enabled monitor
• Stainless steel camera head
• Built-in kickstand
• Multiple configurations
• Lightweight and portable

Pricing and Availability

This product comes with a full lifetime warranty. The SeeSnake microReel APX is listed at $4,364.80 on the Ohio Power Tool website. You can also learn more by viewing the product on Ridgid’s website.

Specifications

• Model: 70808
• Drum diameter: 12 in.
• Camera diameter: 25 mm
• Type: fixed
• Resolution: 640×480
• Line Capacity: 1-1/2 to 4-in.
• Push cable length: 100 ft.
• Push cable diameter: 6.7 mm
• Sonde: 512 Hz, Integrated
• Dimensions (LxWxH): 13.3 x 8.8 x 16.2 in.
• Weight: 12.7 lbs.

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Take Milwaukee’s Chain Vise Anywhere

Chain vices see a lot of use in the field for electrical, plumbing, and mechanical contractors. But, according to Milwaukee, most of the vices we see on the market are difficult to transport, inefficient to deploy, and become unstable as the joints wear down from use. The Milwaukee Portable 6-Inch Tripod Chain Vise, due out in February 2022, offers some solutions for all of these common problems.

Milwaukee Portable Chain Vise: The Big Deal

For this evolution of the chain vise, Milwaukee has come up with a fold-flat design and a centered carry handle that allows for easy, briefcase-style transportation and storage. It requires only two steps to deploy, eliminating the usual cumbersome set-up process.

The Milwaukee Chain Vise features Stable Lok, a system they’ve devised to let you adjust the tension of the deck to maintain steadiness for accurate cut. Milwaukee claims their Stable Lok will last throughout the life of the stand.

The Milwaukee Portable Tripod Chain Vise also features an adjustable leg, which lets you adjust the pitch of the deck by +/- 3º for level alignments on the jobsite.

Additional Features

• Folds flat for van/job box storage
• Multi-material vise secures up to 6″ pipe
• Grounding tab for welding applications
• Removable foot grips for anchoring
• Lower shelf available for additional storage (sold separately)
• SS & PVC coated pipe jaws available (sold separately)

Milwaukee Portable Tripod Chain Vice & Accessories Price

You can expect this Milwaukee Chain Vise to hit retailers in February of next year. It will retail for $459.99.

In addition to the Milwaukee 48-22-8690, the brand plans on releasing a variety of accessories to complement this tool:

• Lower Shelf (48-22-8695) – $99.99
• PVC Coated Pipe Jaw (48-22-8696) – $144.99
• Stainless Steel Pipe Jaw (48-22-8697) – $124.99
• Standard Jaw (48-22-8698) -$64.99

Milwaukee Portable Chain Vise Specifications

• Model: Milwaukee 48-22-8690
• Pipe Capacity: 1/8 in. – 6 in.
• Stability Adjustment Stable Lok
• Leveling Adjustment: +/- 3º
• Transport Profile: Flat, Briefcase-style
• Storage Height: 49.5 in.
• Storage Depth: 5.25 in.
• Price: $459.99

The post Milwaukee Portable 6-Inch Tripod Chain Vise | 48-22-8690 appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

We’ve reviewed a few drain snakes and drain augers over the last year, as there have been marked innovations in the world of cordless plumbing solutions. In almost all these new products, the drum and the drain snake make up integral parts of the tool. And, in those tools, the drum and drain snake do most of the dirty work. The water, grease, and grime of clogged drains will eventually take their toll on the business end of your plumbing equipment. However, performing some simple, routine maintenance on the drum and drain snake will help keep your drain auger unclogging drains for years to come. Here are some drum and cable care tips from the Pros in case you’re new to the trade.

Drum Auger and Cable Care Tips

1. Lubricate The Snake

Pros use snake oil, gear oil, and even regular motor oil to lubricate the snake after each use. This helps prevent rust from forming on the metal and prolongs the life of the drum auger cable.

2. Pull the Plug

Some drain snakes have plugs to allow excess water to escape the drum. Be sure to pull the plug and let the drum drain into a bucket at the end of the day. If it’s an extremely cold winter, you may have to do it after each job to ensure you don’t get a frozen snake.

Even if you lubricate your drum cable regularly, excess standing water always leads to rust.

3. Remove the Drum to Access the Cable

Every so often, it’s good to remove the drum to expose the cable and clean the grime that accumulates inside. Let it sit open to dry if you have time.

4. Soak the Snake

Periodically pull the snake all the way out of the drum and coil it up in a bucket full of water with detergent. Just be sure to move on to the next step before too long to avoid rust.

5. Dry It Out

Use a rag to dry off the snake after soaking it in detergent. Then, let it lay out to fully dry before lubricating it.

Or, Avoid the Drum and the Snake Altogether

We recently took a look at the Milwaukee M12 AirSnake, which not only works well for lighter duty clogs, but it eliminates the use of drums and drain snakes altogether. Instead of running a snake down the drain, the AirSnake uses air pressure and the existing water in the line to push clogs through the pipe. A Pro plumber will still need the drain auger for some clogs, but this product will take care of grimy stoppages.

Final Thoughts

If you follow these drum and cable care tips, you can expect to get years of use out of your equipment. A little oil, some TLC, and mere minutes of work, and these tools can keep you earning money without letting you down.

If you’re a Pro and you have any drain snake tips, add them in the comments below or hit us up on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter.

The post Drum Auger and Cable Care Tips from the Pros appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Knowing how to replace a toilet can save you a lot of money. While it can seem like a daunting task, it’s really not all that difficult if you follow a few basic steps and understand the big picture. At some point, nearly every homeowner is faced with some kind of toilet task. That might involve fixing a leak or replacing an entire fixture with a new model.

You might replace a toilet for any reason—from purely cosmetic to replacing a toilet that has cracked or is beyond repair. In either case, the process takes less than an hour if you have everything you need. Double that if you need to run to the store in the middle somewhere because you forgot something.

Sometimes even the Milwaukee Trapsnake can’t save you. At some point, nearly every homeowner is faced with some kind of toilet task. That may involve fixing a leak or replacing an entire fixture with a new model. This can be for any reason. For some, replacements are purely cosmetic while others replace a toilet that has cracked or is beyond repair.

In either case, the process takes less than an hour if you have everything you need. Double that if you need to run to the store in the middle somewhere because you forgot something.

The steps involved in replacing a toilet (which, incidentally match just replacing a leaky wax ring) follow:

Steps in Replacing a Toilet

Expanded Instructions on Replacing a Toilet

The key is to not get hung up on the sheer bulkiness and cumbersome nature of the toilet. 95 percent of the time you are literally following these few steps with no hang-ups. On the occasion that something else is required (like installing an offset toilet flange, for example) then your experience will be a bit more involved.

Let’s start at the beginning with Step 1.

Disconnect Plumbing and Drain the Water

It sounds obvious, but the first step is to turn off the water going to the toilet and drain the water from within the toilet. To accomplish this section, simply follow these steps:

• Turn off the valve which supplies water to the toilet. This should be located below the tank on the left side if you are facing the toilet wall. If, for some reason, you do not have a shut-off valve for the toilet then you’ll need to turn off the water at the main shut-off valve or wherever the nearest cold water shut-off valve is that stops the flow of water to your toilet.
• Flush the toilet. This gets rid of the majority of the water still in the tank. You may want to hold the lever so that all of the possible water exits the tank.
• Use a sponge to soak up any remaining water in the tank and bowl. You can wring out the sponge into a nearby sink or use a plastic bucket.

NOTE: The bowl contains a “trap” meaning that some water may still be in the toilet, even after you have emptied the bowl and tank.

Remove the Toilet

This step involves actually disconnecting and lifting the toilet from its place and removing it completely from the bathroom. To do it right, here are the steps:

• Disconnect the water supply line going to the toilet bowl. Unscrew it from the bowl itself, not the wall. You can typically re-use these lines, however if you do not have a modern braided line or solid pipe, then we recommend replacement at this time. This is not a place you want to come back to later in a leak-repair situation.
• Use an adjustable wrench to remove the nuts from two bolts holding the toilet to the floor. You may have to first remove plastic caps which often cover these bolts.  NOTE: If  the nuts cannot be removed, either because they are rusted or the bolts are rotating,  use a hacksaw to cut off the bolts just below the nuts.
• Remove the toilet and place it outside or on something that can absorb any water that may escape the trap during the move. Typically you’ll want to lay the toilet on its side. Finding a second person to help you carry it is a key part of successfully completing this step without breaking something or violating the third commandment.

Preparation for Replacing a Toilet

In this step, we’ll prepare both the toilet and the closet flange for the replacement toilet. This involves cleaning and prepping the area so that you can replace the new toilet onto the flange with little difficulty. Be sure to follow all of these procedures:

• Remove the old wax ring from the closet flange (the plastic piece that marks and surrounds the location of the toilet drain). This is “messy” work (OK, that’s an understatement) and it may help to have a large screwdriver and wooden paint stick or furring strip to help scrape off the wax.
• Check the condition of the plastic closet flange. If it’s damaged you’ll need to replace it or repair it with kits that are available at your local home improvement store. It is possible that you’ll want to bring in a plumber if the flooring is damaged beyond simple repair or the closet flange isn’t fixable with a standard repair kit.
• At this time some recommend test-fitting the new toilet to the closet flange – without the wax ring. We’ve found this to be helpful for uneven surfaces, though in most cases it’s fine to shim the toilet afterwards.

Fitting the Wax Ring and Place the Toilet

This part is actually very simple, however, we depart slightly from the instructions normally given on the wax ring boxes. The wax ring is what really makes the toilet drain system fool-proof. It guides the sewage into the 3- or 4-inch drain pipe, keeping any waste from escaping the path or leaking onto the floor.

No matter what the condition of your toilet, we’ve found that an oversized ring with a plastic funnel is typically the go-to solution:

• First of all, be sure to use the extra-large wax rings that include a plastic funnel. These are typically adequate for both 3-inch and 4-inch drains. They are simply the best solutions for 99.9% of all toilet requirements we’ve run into.
• Center and place the wax ring over the closet flange. While most instructions tell you to place it onto the toilet directly, we feel there is no need to inconvenience yourself in this way. You can’t set the toilet down afterward unless it’s on its side, for example. It frankly makes it harder to place the toilet perfectly onto the flange.
• Be sure the square head attachment bolts that came with your wax ring are positioned correctly into the closet flange. You’ll be placing the toilet by centering the holes over the protruding bolts.

This Part May Require an Extra Hand

• With a partner (or yourself if you can safely lift and balance the toilet as needed), position the toilet so that the bolts come through the holes in the toilet base. Center the toilet perfectly atop the drain and flange.
• Press down on the toilet with a gentle rocking motion until it seats firmly into place. When pushing down you want to be centered over the closet flange/drain. Use shims if needed to eradicate any rocking of the toilet or to compensate for an uneven surface.
• Tighten the bolts down, alternating sides until the toilet is snug. You do not want to overtighten the bolts as the ceramic toilet base will crack. If the bolts stick up beyond the plastic caps that come with most toilets, use a hacksaw to cut down the bolts so that the caps fit overtop.
• Add silicone caulk around the edge of the toilet to seal it up.

Reconnect the Plumbing

Do just what the heading suggests. Now you can reconnect the supply line, turn the water back on and allow the toilet to fill. Don’t be stingy when it comes to replacing the toilet water supply line. It’s always a good idea to replace that part, even if there are no signs of wear on your existing line. You can select either solid pipes (for a high-end finished look) or metal braided lines that resist bursting.

Finally, when finished, check for any leaks, especially during flushing. That’s all there is to it. Now you can enjoy your new toilet.

The post How to Replace a Toilet – Yes, You Can DIY appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Milwaukee Expands The Expansion Lineup Again

Milwaukee expanded its line of cordless PEX expansion tools with the M18 FUEL 2-inch ProPEX Expander (2932-22XC). It delivers fast expansion of ProPEX pipes up to 2-inch. The tool forms a great, compact gateway between the existing Milwaukee M18 ProPEX expansion tool (which tops out at 1 1/2-inches) and the larger Milwaukee Force Logic ProPEX installation tool. It also adds Milwaukee One-Key technology, letting you track, secure, and manage your expander.

Milwaukee 2932-22XC Performance

The Milwaukee M18 FUEL 2-inch ProPEX Expander features a pipe selector switch. This optimizes the expansion speed to match different sizes of ProPEX pipe. Milwaukee claims the 2932-22XC expander provides up to 3X faster connections in its “sweet spot” of 1-1/4″ to 2″ pipe. With the correct expander heads, you can also use it with PEX tubing down to 3/8″.

As an example, Milwaukee states the expansion time for a 2-inch ProPEX fitting to take less than 25 seconds to complete.

Features

The base tool in the 2932-22XC kit weighs just under 11-pounds, not including the battery or the expander head. Milwaukee also used a D-handle design for the 2-Inch ProPex Expander that functions well given the design of the tool’s motor and gearcase. Though heavy, this is still designed as a one-handed tool. Like their other ProPEX tools, the auto-rotating mechanism helps you make quick, uniform expansions onto all your PEX fittings and tubing.

It also includes a dedicated 2-inch ProPEX head engineered specifically for this tool. It has an integrated cone design that gets you into tight corners easily by reducing the travel length of the cone.

As alluded to above, Milwaukee ONE-KEY technology lets you track, manage, and even lock down the tool using the ONE-KEY app. We like this integration as it more easily lets you add tools into your managed inventory.

Other Features

• All-metal gears and integrated metal frame
• LED work light

Price & Availability

You can expect the Milwaukee M18 FUEL 2-inch ProPEX Expander Kit to hit stores November 2021. The kit includes the tool, an M18 5.0Ah battery, charger, a 1-1/4″ head, 1/2″ head, 2″ head, and grease. This kit retails for $1,699 and comes with Milwaukee’s 5-year warranty.

Milwaukee M18 FUEL 2-inch ProPEX Expander Specs

• Model: Milwaukee 2932-22XC
• Height: 13.6 in.
• Length: 9 in.
• Weight: 10.9 lbs without battery and head
• Width: 4.3 in.
• Capacity: 3/8 in – 2 in.
• Auto-Rotate: Built-in
• Work Light: LED
• Battery System: M18
• Warranty: 5-year
• Price: $1,699

The post Milwaukee M18 Fuel 2-inch ProPEX Expander with ONE-KEY 2932-22XC appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Cutting in-place soil pipes might be an unpleasant job but it doesn’t have to be difficult. All of these methods work, other things being equal, but soil pipe access might eliminate some of them. The age and condition of the pipe might affect the method you use for cutting it as well (it gets even more brittle with age). How much of a mess each process makes might determine your choice as well. But, we’re willing to bet that at least one of these options will work for you. Here are 4 suggestions for how to cut soil pipe.

How to Cut Soil Pipe with Snap Cutters

This tool is designed specifically for the job. It uses a chain with cutting rollers that score the pipe. While progressively tightening around the pipe, the cut is made. This type of pipe is naturally brittle, but it gets even worse with age.

Occasionally, you’ll cause a lengthwise crack in the pipe while using snap cutters. This typically indicates you either tightened the tool too quickly or you simply need to replace the pipe due to degredation.

When using a snap cutter, keep the cutting wheels spinning and the chain rust-free to guarantee good cuts. Manual snap cutters’ long handles may not fit in tight spaces, but there are some smaller versions available. You can even find powered models like the Ridgid 238-P soil pipe cutter.

Cutting Soil Pipe with a Reciprocating Saw

A reciprocating saw with a diamond blade can get the job done with a clean cut, but don’t schedule an early tee time. Reciprocating saws cut slowly, and these blades are expensive.

More recently, advances in carbide tooth manufacturing methods have yielded some excellent products. They typically don’t do more than a couple of pipes before failing, but they do the job much more quickly than diamond blades. We’ve found that the following blades do very well on cast iron and soil pipe:

• Diablo Steel Demon Amped thick metal carbide recip saw blade
• Milwaukee Torch Nitrus carbide reciprocating saw blade
• Lenox LAZER CT carbide thick metal blade

To see how some of these carbide blades performed when cutting cast iron, check out this video.

Using a Grinder with Cutting Wheel

Pros often cut soil pipe with grinders using abrasive discs. We actually prefer either a cutting wheel—or better yet—a diamond wheel. It’s hard to go wrong with a grinder for a clean, speedy cut. Although the cut will be clean with a grinder, it’s likely that the surrounding area won’t be. Dust and spray can quickly make a mess of the area. Just be sure to use the guard on this tool and angle it properly.

Since a grinder is a handy tool for many other applications, it’s likely that you’ll have one available. If the idea of getting messy doesn’t cause you to panic, the angle grinder might be the best option.

Grab a Portable Band Saw

Pros use the portable band saw less frequently. However, it certainly can fit the bill as the blade moves slowly and steadily through tough metal. It also generates zero kickback and makes nice straight cuts if you line it up properly.

Final Thoughts

The snap cutter and the grinder seem to be the most preferred tools for cutting soil pipe. Newer carbide reciprocating blades make quick work of pipe—even in cramped spaces. Those blades don’t come cheap, however, and you only typically get 2-3 cuts in cast iron before you have to replace them.

When there’s not a lot of room to work or there’s very little margin for error on the pipe, many pros opt for the grinder—even if it does get messy. We hope you’ve gained something from this article on how to cut soil pipe. If you’re a Pro and you have soil pipe cutting tips, add them in the comments below. You can also reach out to us on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter.

The post How to Cut Soil Pipe – Pro Plumbing Tips appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Plumbers have favorites and go-to’s when installing new plumbing or performing repairs. Piping options include PVC, CPVC, copper, and PEX tubing. Knowing a little about each helps you understand the difference between CPVC and PEX tubing or copper. On top of that, the debate between CPVC vs copper vs PEX rages on for reasons from price to ease of installation. We plan to cover all of this below.

Common Application: Replacing Galvanized Pipes

A lot of older homes we encounter have galvanized piping. Years ago, Pros used galvanized pipe as the defacto method for bringing potable (drinkable) water into the home. Now, however, it suffers from several disadvantages. For one, galvanized pipe corrodes internally over time. It gets bad enough that, after 30-40 years, water flow can be significantly restricted. As a result, many homeowners take every opportunity to replace galvanized piping whenever they redo a bathroom, kitchen, or another area which grants them access to the original piping of an older home.

Comparing Labor Costs

For years copper has been the dominant format, showing up in as much as 80% of all new construction homes in the past 30 years, but CPVC is a steady force and certainly popular with remodelers and do-it-yourselfers since it doesn’t involve sweating and soldering pipes.

Each of these products has its purpose, advantages, and disadvantages. For the most part, the difference between CPVC and PEX comes down to your familiarity with the materials and the plumbing design and functionality you’re after. You can use either CPVC, copper, or PEX tubing without any major problems. Just have them correctly installed by someone familiar with best practices for each. In deciding which is best for you, or more likely, which you should turn to when doing a remodel we’ll examine each material and explain the ups and downs.

CPVC for Plumbing

CPVC piping has been in use for over 40 years and is the preferred material for amateur remodelers and do-it-yourselfers. Rated for temperatures of 140 degrees or more, CPVC is every bit as safe to use as copper piping. It has high resiliency and the ability to handle high amounts of heat. CPVC has a different outer diameter than either copper or PVC, so this is something to take into consideration when planning out your connections to legacy plumbing such as galvanized or copper. Compared to copper, CPVC is extremely lightweight and easy to install. It has a lower overall cost compared to copper, especially with the price of metals going up steadily over the past several years.

Advantages of Using CPVC

• Resistance to corrosion and abrasion
• Smooth bore for improved flow (also reduces water noise)
• High impact strength
• Easy, cost-effective installation
• Competitively priced vs. copper (and, as a result, less subject to jobsite theft)
• Lightweight
• Self-insulating to minimize thermal loss
• Flame retardant and possesses low smoke density
• Pressure rating of ~100 PSI @ 180° F, ~400 PSI at 73° F (short-term pressure rating > 200 PSI)
• Flexibility virtually eliminates water hammer (no water hammer arrestors required under normal conditions except where deemed so by local code)
• Inert to acidic soils and corrosive water supplies
• Can be buried directly under slabs with no chemical interaction with concrete
• Non-conductive
• Eliminates pressure leaks at solder joints
• Virtually no sweating or condensation

Some Considerations When Using CPVC Piping

• Subject to cracking during earthquakes
• Generally requires a 24-hour or more cure period in cold weather before pressurizing with water

To date, all national building codes have approved CPVC for use in the United States and Canada to carry potable (drinkable) water. There has been extensive testing and QC standards have been put into place to set the consistency in manufacturing for these products (ANSI/NSF-61 standards).

Copper Piping: The High-end Workhorse

Copper piping is the workhorse product of the United States. While some people hate copper for domestic use, copper has been around since the late 1920s and in 1932 the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) standard B88 was created as the standard for seamless copper piping.

By the early 1980s, it has been said that the production, sale, and installation of copper water piping had already exceeded more than half a billion linear feet annually. It’s an excellent solution for home or commercial piping, provided the supplied water is kept very close to a pH of 7 (neutral).

One of the most talked-about drawbacks to the use of copper piping is the issue of pinhole leaks. Pinhole leaks, which occur most often with older homes in horizontal cold water supply lines, are a result of corrosion in the pipe with eventually disrupts the pipe wall in a non-uniform fashion, producing a leak. Possible causes for pinhole leaks include the use of water softeners, high pH, and excessive flow rates (among others).

Advantages of Using Copper Piping

• Proven, long-term durability in non-acidic installations (15-20 years)
• Biostatic – does not support bacteria growth
• Earthquake tolerant
• Fire-resistant; its high melt point (1981°F) is 5-times higher than CPVC
• Widely accepted by all building codes
• Contemporary US-Made copper pipe is 99.9% pure (copper/silver) according to ASTM specifications (note that older copper pipe may contain higher amounts of lead).
• High rated internal working pressure
• Fast “cure” time (can be pressure tested in 10 minutes)
• Can be bent to avoid obstructions, minimizing joints
• Available in annealed (soft) and drawn (hard) versions
• Small external diameter relative to CPVC
• Joints are not bulky

Disadvantages When Using Copper Pipes

• Some report of “metallic taste” to water
• Volatile pricing, subject to steep increases due to market forces (more subject to job site theft)
• Can produce “pinhole” leaks in the presence of acidic water
• Limited in some areas to use only when water pH is less than 6.5 – 6.8 (acidic)
• Can leach lead or copper into the water supply
• The labor-intensive installation process requires a skilled plumber
• Calcium build-up can occur, constricting water flow
• Higher initial installed cost (labor and materials)
• Thermal loss – requires an insulating jacket
• Condensation can occur if not properly insulated
• Noisy at high water velocities
• Subject to water hammer at velocities higher than 5 FPS; may require water hammer arrestors to mitigate damage
• Copper joints prone to failure at high temperatures (180°F and velocities)
• Installation with a gas torch is a potential fire hazard
• Repairs difficult for DIY’ers, requiring special training and tools

Although the health side-effects of copper plumbing are relatively unheard of, the EPA ironically lists copper as a contaminant in drinking water. The maximum permissible level is 1.3 mg/L. New copper installations, which tend to bleed off more copper initially, coupled with aggressive or acidic water can be a toxic combination. Older copper installations, including faucets, may also contain higher levels of lead, including lead solder which was commonly used before 1987.

PEX Tubing (Cross-linked Polyethylene)

PEX stands for cross-linked polyethylene. That’s a fancy way of describing the process by which this plastic pipe is manufactured. Cross-linking creates connections between the plastic’s polymer chains. Manufacturers use three different ways to manufacture PEX tubing using this cross-linking process. PEX A, B, and C represent the different methods (as opposed to “grades” of PEX). PEX tubing uses an extrusion process, heating the material under pressure and eventually pulling the tubing out through a die.

Though in existence since the 1960s, PEX tubing has only been in commercial use for US plumbing applications since the ’80s. Many installers like PEX because it is flexible (1/2-inch can take a 90-degree bend in just an 8-inch radius!) and can typically be run from the supply to the destination in a single run. As you can imagine, this saves considerable time during installation over copper or even CPVC.

Why Use PEX Tubing?

PEX handles a wide temperature range, from below freezing to over 180 degrees Fahrenheit, making it suitable for hot and cold potable supply lines, service lines, and even hydronic radiant floor heating systems. It can be installed under the slab and can even penetrate the slab directly with only a sleeve. 

PEX is typically ran in “home-run” configurations where the supply lines are split into multiple hot and cold runs and sent out from a single source to each destination spigot, fixture or tap. This also means that the homeowner can shut down just a single line (hot or cold) in order to make a repair or modification to fixture – all without disrupting water flow to the rest of the house.

In short, PEX is very cool, though the newest to the scene. For plumbers, this means that if you can bill by the job you will save considerable time. If you bill by the hour, PEX (vs. copper) can seriously put a damper on your billable time—it’s far too quick to install!

PEX is available in diameters from 1/4-inch to 1-inch CTS (copper tube size) and is traditionally packaged in either coils or 20-foot straight pieces. Installation is accomplished with either mechanical or compression-style fittings.

Quick Facts on PEX

• Requires the use of brass fittings
• Some special tools are needed for installation (making it less friendly for the casual homeowner or remodeler to use)
• Extremely durable and expansion-tolerant when installed correctly

Of course, three types of PEX exist on the market, commonly referred to as PEX A, B, and C. PEX C is much less common for whole-home applications, so we’ll compare A and B (in laymen’s terms). In doing so we find some key differences.

CPVC vs Copper vs PEX Materials Comparison

We wanted to give a clear delineation in the CPVC vs copper vs PEX debate. One way to do that is to assume some facts and then create a grid. v

Let’s assume a simple configuration of two 100 foot runs of 1/2-inch pipe, each of which connects from a source to a spigot and each having to round a 90-degree bend. We won’t count any fittings or adapters on each end but merely what is required to make the end-to-end run. We did include tools where they might be specialty items that wouldn’t otherwise be in your tool kit. See below for our CPVC vs copper vs PEX table.

Note: Using PEX tubing in a home run configuration may cost an additional $100-$250 for the multi-port manifold that divides the incoming hot and cold and sends it to the entire home.

So Who Wins the CPVC, Copper, and PEX Tubing Contest?

Looking above, CPVC is the clear winner in terms of cost and ease of installation. PEX tubing is a clear second and actually gets less expensive once you eliminate tool expenditures. Copper is still the most expensive way to go. However, for some odd reason, Pros and homeowners still consider it the premier high-end solution. In our opinion, we’d do our own homes in PEX if we were building new construction. For older homes, we tend to convert all copper (where possible) to CPVC, and copper we only use when it means saving lots of time and energy converting to CPVC and back again (ie when repairing something in the middle of an all-copper run.

There is no definitive right or wrong answer in the CPVC vs copper vs PEX debate. You really need to understand which method and materials you or your builder chooses. In the end, you may not have much choice as a consumer.

As a tradesman, however, you could stand to save a lot of money or even get more jobs due to reduced time spent running pipes. Hopefully, this guide exposed you to at least some of the variables involved in making the choice that’s right for you.

The post Differences Between CPVC, Copper, and PEX Tubing appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Milwaukee and Uponor Team Up To Change the ProPEX Game

Milwaukee Tool and Uponor have partnered up again to improve the consistency of ProPex installations. The Milwaukee M12 Fuel ProPEX Expander, due out in December, ups the ante with a brushless motor. It also includes three different Rapid Seal heads to cover 1/2″ through 1″ PEX. The new heads seal up to 65% faster than competitive solutions at 45º.

Milwaukee and Uponor Together Again

We are excited to once again partner with Uponor, to deliver the next breakthrough in productivity for ProPEX installs. With the introduction of the new M12 FUEL ProPEX Expander, installers can expect the fastest 3/8”-1” expansions and decreased seal times especially as temperatures decrease, all while maintaining the promise of the most consistent installations.

Morgan Sokany, Senior Product Manager for Milwaukee Tool

Key Features

The Milwaukee M12 Fuel ProPEX Expander features a brushless motor that delivers more power, speed, and runtime than the Milwaukee 2432-20 ProPEX installation tool even under the toughest conditions. Milwaukee claims that it even provides up to 25% faster connections.

It also comes standard with three new ProPEX Expander Heads with Rapid Seal. Milwaukee and Uponor have designed these heads to provide quick fitting installation and faster sealing connections in colder temperatures.

The Milwaukee M12 ProPEX Expander features an extended dual-actuating trigger for better access in hard-to-reach areas. It also comes with an auto-rotating head for quick and uniform expansions. You also get a built-in LED light—something we almost take for granted now on the newest cordless tools.

Milwaukee 2432-20 vs 2532-20 ProPEX Installation Tools

Notable Improvements

Clearly the new ProPEX Expander Heads with Rapid Seal and brushless M12 FUEL motor top the charts on what’s new here. We also can’t help but note the handy belt hook—we always like seeing those. We look forward to getting this tool into the hands of one of our Pro plumbers to see the improvements over the former M12 model. We’d expect reasonable speed improvements and certainly more run-time. In the end—this looks like a great indicator that Milwaukee remains committed to maintaining and expanding its hold on the world of cordless PEX plumbing tools.

Pricing and Availability

The Milwaukee M12 Fuel ProPEX Expander Kit comes with the tool, 1/2″, 3/4″, and 1″ ProPEX Expander Heads with Rapid Seal, two M12 CP2.0 batteries, a charger, cone grease, and a carrying bag. It will also come as a bare tool option with the Rapid Seal Heads sold separately.

You can expect the Milwaukee ProPEX Expander Kit to hit stores in December. It will retail for $549 and include a 3-year warranty.

Milwaukee M12 Fuel ProPEX Expander Specs

• Kit Model: Milwaukee 2532-22
• Capacity: 3/8”-1”
• Heads Included: ½”, ¾”, 1”
• Trigger: Dual Actuating
• Auto-Rotate: Yes
• Weight: 4.5 lbs (w/o battery)
• Warranty: 3 years
• Kit Price: $549
• Available December 2020

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The redesigned Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hole Hawg (2807-20) boasts more power and speed than its excellent predecessor with a shorter tool length and just a skosh (0.3 pounds) more heft. Our crew loves the Super Hawg we’ve used for years but having a smaller Hawg is certainly an advantage. Here are the details!

Pros

• Highly productive capability for 220 7/8″ holes per charge
• Faster work with 300 more RPM than its predecessor
• Small profile allows work in tight spaces
• 5 year limited warranty
• Just 7.7 pounds bare

• Caveat not a con: Requires a Milwaukee High Output battery in order to get the most power from the tool

Where the Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hole Hawg Fits

At least until you get some seniority, there’s almost no getting around repipe work. More literally, there’s almost no getting around a sweltering attic while you’re doing it! Maneuvering between truss members, being careful not to damage the ceiling below—the last thing you want is a big, heavy corded drill for all those holes. While the Milwaukee M18 FUEL Super Hawg remains our top recommendation for 2-9/16-inch holes, the updated Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hole Hawg approaches the leader. It presents a smaller, lighter-weight, yet powerful drilling tool.

Even if you’ve never performed this type of work, it’s easy to imagine the advantages of this faster, more powerful Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hole Hawg. What may not be clear, however, is the benefit of being able to drill closer to exterior walls (where the attic narrows sharply toward the soffit) with a smaller tool. Our crew has enjoyed the power of competitor DeWalt’s Inline Stud & Joist Drill, for example, but its size prevents you from getting as close as this Hawg.

Max Power with High Output Battery Packs

To achieve maximum productivity from the Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hole Hawg, be sure to use Milwaukee’s High Output battery packs. We started with regular packs and found we could move faster with the more muscular packs.

Also, when using the cordless Hole Hawg to drill 2-9/16″ holes for plumbing rough-ins, you must use a High Output pack. When testing the tool with 5Ah batteries the tool couldn’t quite drill those holes without stalling out. Even with that pack, this tool doesn’t hit those holes as hard as the cordless Super Hawg. If you spend most of your time roughing-in 2-9/16″ you probably want to step up to the bigger tool.

For everyone else, the cost-savings and reduced size make this a very compelling cordless right-angle drill with oodles of run-time.

How Much Run-time Do You Get?

Milwaukee claims this Hawg will create 220 7/8-inch holes per charge. We didn’t get to test that many holes at once, but it seems plausible. We spend nearly all of our time drilling larger holes. This tool certainly gets the job done—but those tackling 2-inch and smaller-diameter holes will see the most benefits. That’s okay, however. For 2-inch holes and below, this Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hole Hawg is quick!

More Than Plumbing

So it’s not just us plumbers who can benefit from the Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hole Hawg. There are lots of applications for carpenters and electricians, too. One thing seems certain—put a Hole Hawg in the hand of a guy doing rough-in, and he’ll move on to the next job pretty quickly!

Milwaukee 2807-20 vs 2707-20 Hole Hawg

The Milwaukee 2807-20 compares well to the 2707-20 it replaces. You get many of the same hole-drilling capacities—but with a few notable improvements. First, the speed increases dramatically to 1,500 RPM. Secondly, that speed supports greater drilling power—allowing the Milwaukee 2807-20 to tackle up to 2-9/16″ holes. This type of capacity brings the Hole Hawg up nearer to the work typically only tackled by the cordless Super Hawg. Possibly the best thing is that the price doesn’t change—this rolling update simply replaces the older tool.

Milwaukee 2807 Hole Hawg Pricing

The Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hole Hawg 2807-20 prices out at $279 for the bare tool and $579 for the kit. Here’s a look at the competition.

• Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hole Hawg 2807: $279 (bare), $579 (kit)
• Makita 18V X2 LXT 1/2 Inch Right Angle Drill XAD03: $359 (bare), $469 (kit)
• DeWalt 60V Max In-Line Stud & Joist Drill DCD470: $399 (bare), $549 (kit)
• Milwaukee M18 FUEL Super Hawg 2809/2911: $399 (bare), $699 (kit)

The Bottom Line

The Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hole Hawg’s second generation is a great success with more power and speed in a slightly shorter tool length and just a few tenths of a pound more. You MUST use Milwaukee High Output batteries in order to get the maximum power from this tool—but those XC6.0 batteries come with the 2807-22 kit.

Specifications Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hole Hawg 2807-20

• Models
  • 2807-20 (bare tool)
  • 2807-22 (kit)
• Chuck Size: 1/2-inch
• Chuck Type: Metal
• Length: 15.6 inches
• Weight: 7.7 pounds
• Warranty: 5 years
• Prices:
  • 2807-20 (bare tool): $279
  • 2807-22 (kit): $579

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Klein Borescope Unlocks Android Potential

The Klein ET16 Borescope pairs a 9mm digital camera to a 10-foot armored gooseneck cable. It also includes USB-C and micro-USB connections for viewing the image on most Android smartphones and devices. We like compact camera heads and good flexibility. Klein seems to have hit both with the ET16—and at this price, you’re out of excuses if you don’t yet have one.

Super Bendy High-Quality Imaging

The Klein ET16 Borescope connects to most Android phones version 4.0 or later equipped with USB On-the-Go (OTG). The ET16 takes power from the device, via micro-USB or USB-C connection, so you won’t have to worry about charging any battery but your phone’s. You want to make sure you have a compatible Android phone before picking up this borescope.

It should be noted that the Klein ET16 Borescope will not work with iPhones or iPads.

The Klein ET16 Borescope features a waterproof IP67 9mm camera that captures 640×480-pixel images. Six white LEDs light up your work, and the ET16 includes adjustable brightness so you can capture the best images possible. We’ve found that dialing down the light output helps when you need to get closer to an obstruction. The borescope camera sends these images instantly to your phone or device via the aforementioned cable connection.

A ten-foot armored gooseneck cable lets you position the camera in and around hard-to-access areas like crawl spaces, behind walls, and even into pipe.

Once you’ve captured your images, you can share them via text or email using the Klein Tools app, available as a free download from www.kleintools.com.

Pricing and Thoughts

Since this camera borrows your phone’s screen, the ET16 remains relatively inexpensive. And when we say inexpensive we mean it. You can pick up the Klein ET16 Borescope for Android for just $39.97. For anyone who does occasional troubleshooting or automotive repair, this provides a solution that typically costs a lot more. Even DIYers can pick one up for helping navigate enclosed spaces when running low voltage wires or trying to find leaks or access points.

The Klein ET16 includes a carrying case, micro-USB adapter, and 2-year warranty.

Klein Borescope for Android

• Model: Klein ET16
• Type: USB Type-C or Micro-USB for Android
• Application: Electrical, HVAC, Plumbing, Aircraft
• Special Features: 10′ (3 m) Armored Gooseneck and 6 LED Lights
• Length: 3.7” (9.4 cm)
• Height: 0.95” (2.4 cm)
• Width: 1.3” (3.3 cm)
• Camera Head Diameter: 0.35” (9 mm)
• Auto-Power Off: No
• Data Logging: No
• Material: ABS and Electrical Components
• Display: Via Smartphone App
• Screen Resolution: 640 x 480 Max
• Digital Zoom: Yes
• Recording Capability: Still Image and Video
• IP Rating: IP67 (Camera Only)
• Included: Borescope with 10′ Gooseneck, USB Adapters, Carrying Case, and Instruction Manual
• Weight: 12.5 oz (354 g)
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: $39.97

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