The iQ Power Tools iQMS362 is the world’s first 16.5” dry cut masonry saw with integrated dust collection. Pro Tool Reviews checked out the iQTS244 Dry Cut Tile Saw—which really changes the way you think about cutting tile. No water. Very little cleanup. Before their tile saw, iQ Power Tools addressed dry brick and block cutting with larger, less mobile cutting tools.

This new saw ups the ante with both increased portability and more clearance for larger block. They also developed new blades to tackle hard concrete, masonry block, pavers, brick, granite… pretty much anything you would normally cut with a wet saw. I put this tool through its paces by working on several projects for The Joinery, an upper-scale “food hall” I’m opening up here in Lakeland, Florida. Inside, we’ll have an on-site brewery and multiple food vendors—all occupying a very open, interesting, and inviting space that overlooks downtown Lake Mirror.

We were able to use the saw in multiple locations throughout The Joinery, including an outdoor patio and some interior spaces near the bar and brewery. The job included cutting both 4x8x16 solid partition blocks as well as custom ~15-inch cloverleaf screen blocks used as the base layer for a short patio wall overlooking the lake. We also cut plenty of two-cell “peanut” block along the way.

Read The Full iQ Power Tools Dry Cut Masonry Saw Written Review

Learn more at iQ’s website or get one for yourself at Acme Tools!

The post iQ Power Tools Dry Cut Masonry Saw Video Review appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

I’ve been using dry-cut metal circular saws similar to the new Skilsaw Dry Cut Metal Saw (SPT62MTC-22) for several years. Primarily, I cut ten-gauge steel sheets and work with a few custom jigs I built for steel tubing. I use my horizontal bandsaw for the bulk of my 90º cuts. The bandsaw, however, is a slow cutting tool and it takes some time to get different angles properly setup. Consequently, I tend to break out my Ridgid abrasive metal chop saw quite often. I find it handy for cutting 45º angles or when I have a lot of cuts to make and I’m pressed for time.

Why You Might Want One

I’ve had the same abrasive chop saw for about 8 years. While faster than my bandsaw, it’s difficult to get consistently accurate cuts. I also find it nearly impossible to shave a piece down by a blade width. Additionally, the cutting capacity diminishes as the blade wears down. It also leaves the cut full of burrs. Those need to be cleaned up with a grinder before being laid out for welding.

Dry-cut chop saws, on the other hand, are as accurate as a standard miter saw. They cut to a mark and leave you with a clean edge. They also maintain nearly the same cutting capacity as the blade wears down.

I recently reviewed the Skilsaw Outlaw Worm Drive Metal Saw and was thoroughly impressed by the build quality and performance. During my research, I came across the Skilsaw Dry Cut Metal Saw. I knew I had to get my hands on it. I like the compactness of the 12-inch model for storage since I don’t always have it out on my workbench. 12-inch blades also cost $30 less than the 14-inch blades used on competing saws in this class.

Skilsaw SPT62MTC-22 First Impressions

I was definitely happy to see the Diablo Cerment blade. I’ve cut tons of material (literally) with the 8-inch version of this blade. In my Skilsaw Outlaw, it has proved the longest-lasting dry-cut blade I’ve ever used on metal.

The Skilsaw SPT62MTC-22 sits very sturdy and level on its five rubber feet. The fence/clamp system seems pretty stout compared to my abrasive saw. I also noticed you can adjust the fence angle conveniently without tools. Many other saws in this class require a separate tool to loosen and adjust the fence angle. That’s a nice feature. 

We Like the Table Extensions

There are a couple more standout features on the Skilsaw Dry Cut Metal Saw, the first being a table extension. Metal chop saws all have a very narrow table and steel is pretty heavy, so without additional support, it can get difficult to hold your piece flat while you clamp it in.

Although this feature seems laughable when you go to make your first cut on a 24-foot stick of steel, it’s pretty handy when you’re working with a 5-foot or shorter piece and you have no additional support nearby.

The Skilsaw SPT62MTC-22 also has a couple of safety features that are subtle, but worth mentioning: a trigger lock and a chip shield. I love safety features that aren’t bulky and don’t slow you down during typical use. The trigger lock slides in both directions, so it’s easy to use with your right or left hand – nicely done!

Excellent Visibility & Chip Clearing

The chip shield is out of the way when you don’t need it, but comes down with the blade to shield your eyes from stray metal particles. Needless to say, you should still wear safety glasses anytime you use a chop saw.

A nice, deep chip collector is placed at the rear of the saw. Since dry saws don’t generate the heat that abrasives do, you won’t have to worry about slag collecting inside.

Skilsaw Dry Cut Saw Metal Saw is a Smooth Operator

The Skilsaw Dry Cut Metal Saw only weighs about 38 pounds. Compared with my Ridgid at nearly 70 poundswith its cast iron base, the Skilsaw is MUCH easier to get out of storage and setup on my welding table.

The soft-start motor and smooth blade guard actuation, paired with the hot-knife-through-butter Diablo blade, got me singing Sade all afternoon (smoo-oowoo-oowooth op-erat-aaahhh). The SPT62MTC-22 is actually so smooth that you have to be careful not to cut too quickly. If you go too fast, it’ll fling the cutoff piece of steel away from the saw and leave you with a small defect at the last corner. After a few cuts, I got the hang of the proper cutting speed and I was cutting accurate, clean edges much faster than I ever could with the abrasive saw.

Pro Tip: Even though the blade can cut faster, finish your cut smooth and slow to keep burring down to a minimum on dry cut saws.

Using the Fence and Clamp

The fence and clamp on the Skilsaw are also taller and much more sturdy than on my Ridgid. The angle adjustment indicator is easy to read and was accurate enough to get mating 45º cuts without using my machinist square to dial it in.

Another noticeable difference between the older Ridgid abrasive saw and the Skilsaw dry-cut, is the blade changeout. The blade shroud on the Ridgid is cumbersome and doesn’t lock out of the way when you’re loosening the arbor bolt, so you have to jam a big screwdriver into it to wedge it up while you change out the blade. The Skilsaw’s blade guard gets propped out of the way during blade changes via the forward cover plate screw.

Skilsaw Dry Cut Metal Saw Specifications

• Model: Skilsaw SPT62MTC-22
• Blade Diameter: 12”
• Motor: 15 amps
• No Load Speed: 1500 RPM
• Weight: 38.2 pounds
• Cord Length: 6 feet
• Maximum Cutting Capacity: 4-1/2”
• Maximum Wall Thickness: 1/4”
• Price: $399

The Bottom Line

The Skilsaw SPT62MTC-22 is a massive improvement to my metal-cutting setup, and I would definitely recommend considering the Skilsaw when you’re ready to make the change, either from an abrasive chop saw or from an entry-level dry-cut saw that isn’t holding up. The capacity that you surrender in going with the 12” blade over the 14” blade is more than compensated for by its lightweight (20-45% lighter than the competition), compact frame, and affordable blades.

The post Skilsaw Dry Cut Metal Saw Review appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

The iQ Power Tools iQMS362 is the world’s first 16.5” dry cut masonry saw with integrated dust collection. Pro Tool Reviews checked out the iQTS244 Dry Cut Tile Saw—which really changes the way you think about cutting tile. No water. Very little cleanup. Before their tile saw, iQ Power Tools addressed dry brick and block cutting with larger, less mobile cutting tools.

This new saw ups the ante with both increased portability and more clearance for larger block. They also developed new blades to tackle hard concrete, masonry block, pavers, brick, granite… pretty much anything you would normally cut with a wet saw. I put this tool through its paces by working on several projects for The Joinery, an upper-scale “food hall” I’m opening up here in Lakeland, Florida. Inside, we’ll have an on-site brewery and multiple food vendors—all occupying a very open, interesting, and inviting space that overlooks downtown Lake Mirror.

I was able to use the saw in multiple locations throughout The Joinery, including an outdoor patio and some interior spaces near the bar and brewery. The job included cutting both 4x8x16 solid partition blocks as well as custom ~15-inch cloverleaf screen blocks used as the base layer for a short patio wall overlooking the lake. We also cut plenty of two-cell “peanut” block along the way.

iQ Power Tools Dry-Cut Masonry Saw Features

Looking at the iQ Power Tools Dry-Cut Masonry Saw, you see a portable masonry cutting machine. A sliding table lets you move blocks and material toward the fixed 16.5-inch blade. Because the blade is fixed, an integrated dust extractor with a 3-stage cyclonic filter captures debris and dust as the blade cuts. Between the extractor, blade guard, rear dust guard, and louvered table, this saw actually meets the 2017 OSHA silica dust standard.

The airflow created by the dust extractor also serves to cool the custom blade while simultaneously removing debris. The result is a blade that’s cool to the touch and operates with reduced friction and heat.

The tool has a nice soft-start, so it doesn’t stress your circuit. We ran it off a standard 20A 110V outlet and had no problems—even using a 10-gauge 25-foot extension cord.

Cut Dust-Free and Water-Free

If you’re reading this, it’s likely you’ve done some masonry cutting. Since the ’30s the most sophisticated masonry cutting saws created massive amounts of sludge—using water to cool down blades and make cuts on block and brick. The iQMS362 is a big deal and—dare we say—disruptively innovative.

The saw is virtually dust-free, and yet it cuts dry. You don’t need to hook up a hose or otherwise bring water to the blade. IQ Power Tools actually designed the blade to stay cool while cutting, eliminating the need for water to cool it down.

Using the iQMS362 Dry-Cut Masonry Saw

Accuracy in Cutting

What I love about this saw coming from a woodworking and metalworking background is that it cuts very similar to a sliding table saw. I have a big Felder sliding table saw, and I love that you can just set your crosscut fence, which is what you can do here. You know that you’re going to get a 90 degree cut every time. You just measure and set your stop block and go.

This thing is also so accurate. We’re cutting down the 16-inch length of a block that’s eight inches race on the back of this. And we’re getting truly square cuts to form the corners of our patio breezeway and interior accent walls.

Dust-free Cutting

While we were using this saw, one of our masonry guys cranked up a handheld demo saw. He was just trimming up some brick along the concrete patio. It generated a literal cloud of dust. Fortunately, we’re outdoors, but man, it just, it blew everywhere.

With the iQ Power Tools iQMS362, when you crank up the saw, your first bit of cut gets you a little puff of dust until you break through the bottom. However, once you break through the bottom portion of the block, it starts sucking the dust right through the table into the integrated cyclonic dust extractor.

I did notice that as you’re cutting a two-cell block (or peanut block) you get a little bit more dust than you do with a solid block. That’s because you have room for that dust to escape before the vacuum can suck in down.

Compared to any other method I’ve seen for cutting blocks and pavers, this tool is absolutely amazing. It generates such little dust.

Smooth Sliding Table Cutting Action

I love how simple it is to lock the table in place. So for transport, it doesn’t move. When you unlock it, it slides back and then you can push it all the way forward through the cut. As you slide the block forward using the table, the shroud on the rear of the blade rises up to allow it to pass. The smooth action on the table comes from the robust bearings we found underneath.

At first, I found myself wanting to cut slower than I think the blade and the motor are actually capable of cutting. An average long cut through 4x8x16 solid partition block took about 23 seconds. Depending on the material and how aggressively you push the saw, that time will likely shorten.

Cross-cutting peanut block, for example, took between five and six seconds. I mostly had a sense of wanting to be more careful as we created these corner pieces. In actuality, the saw cuts through block like butter. That is to say, it cuts very quickly, and very accurately, with very little dust.

I had a full commercial masonry crew working on-site to create the long run of the patio breeze wall for The Joinery. All the guys were really impressed with this saw.

Getting the iQMS362 from Place to Place

The iQ Power Tools iQMS362 also transports easily—whether from site to site or even when moving it around the job site. With some saws, collapsing the tool just takes tons of time, so you tend to fight it and maneuver it without fully taking it apart.

With the iQ Power Tools dry cut masonry saw, it collapses down and folds very easily, rolling from one location to the next. You actually do have to push down pretty firmly to get it to collapse, but that also ensures it won’t accidentally fold up on you. It’s just very impressive.

Also worth mentioning how easy it is to clean up the dust. You simply drop a lever to remove the 3-stage collection tray. Looking inside after making a bunch of cuts, we could literally see all the dust we did not put in the air. Staring at the mound of silica, we realized we were only about a third the way through this one project. Several more walls still needed to be built inside the facility. In between periodic dust bin cleaning, you rotate a knob on the side of the tool to knock particles free of the filtering mechanism.

iQ Power Tools iQMS362 Conclusion

When you can dump out dust instead of breathing it in—it’s a good day. The iQ Power Tools dry-cut masonry saw will completely change the way you cut block—for the better. We love it. If you work in masonry and need to cut pavers, block, or brick, you really owe it to yourself to demo this saw. Just bring your wallet because you’ll want your own!

The post iQ Power Tools iQMS362 Dry Cut Masonry Saw Review appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

In a perfect world, we’d conveniently build furniture and casework at our shops with the workflow set up just the way we like it. Then we’d pack it up for easy transport, unload it without a hitch, and carry it gently to its installation point. What a breeze, right? That’s a far cry from reality, of course. We set up temporary workstations to build on site, or figure out how to move it to the site without damage, muscling it up steps, around corners, and so on. Once, PTR Contributor, Adam Spafford and I had to carry two couple-hundred-pound desks up a flight of narrow stairs and then through the most nightmarish game of real-life, 3D Tetris you can imagine. Well, Festool Domino Connectors are here to fix those pinch points. Let’s check it out.

Features

Festool Domino Connectors have another use as well. If you prefer to build onsite, you can use the Domino system to construct knock-down hardware stands and workflow tables with joints that can withstand repeated set up and tear down. Wood screws or bolts aren’t going to give you the stable, wear-proof connections that these connectors will.

Price & Value

The Festool Domino, and its connector range, really doesn’t have a whole lot of competition on the market right now. Festool products typically fall into that “top tier” of woodworking tools that allow for doing your best work. For that reason, while we definitely consider the $375 KV SYS D8 set expensive, it’s not necessarily overpriced when you consider your time savings and the quality of your finished work.

The Bottom Line

Festool Domino Connectors give you the flexibility to make your work knock-down and modular. It can make very difficult transportation, installation, and finishing much easier, and that’s likely worth its premium price.

Festool Domino Connectors Specifications

• Set Numer: KV-SYS D8
• 70x DOMINO/DOMINO KV D8 basic structure connector
• 20x DOMINO/LR32 KV-LR32 D8 basic structure connector
• 10x DOMINO/DOMINO MSV D8 center panel connector
• 10x DOMINO/LR32 MSV-LR32 D8 center panel connector
• Cover Caps (50 of each)
  • Dark brown cover caps (KV-AK D15 brown)
  • Silver cover caps (KV-AK D15 sliver)
  • White cover caps (KV-AK D15 white)
  • Grey cover caps (KV-AK D15 grey)
• 20x DOMINO D 8 x 36 mm
• BS-KV D15 drill template
• KVB-HW D15 CE hinge location cutter
• Screwdriver
• in SYSTAINER SYS 1 T-LOC
• Price: $375

The post Festool Domino Connectors KV-SYS D8 appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

I’ve recently ventured into owning dry-cut metal saws instead of abrasive cutoff saws. The fast cuts, burr-free results, accurate alignment, and non-diminishing blade size (abrasive wheels shrink as you use them up) make dry cut saws like the Evolution EVOSAW380 a clear winner. It’s one of our favorite types of miter saws. Although the blades are much more expensive than abrasive wheels, in my experience, they last 25-50 times as long, depending on use/abuse.

I still use my horizontal bandsaw regularly for 90-degree cuts on thicker steel and 45-degree cuts on 2×6 metal tubing because of the limited capacity of most metal chop saws. The recent introduction of the Evolution EVOSAW380 and its 15-inch blade capacity to my shop may leave the bandsaw to collecting more and more dust.

Having tested Evolution’s Rage 2 and Rage 3 models as lower priced entries into the cold saw metal cutting (and really multi-material cutting) world, the EVOSAW380 is on the other end of the spectrum. It’s a pricier model but designed for heavy duty use in tougher industrial and production settings.

Evolution EVOSAW380 Design

Pulling the EVOSAW380 out of the box, it’s noticeably heavier (by about 25 pounds) than the compact 12-inch Skilsaw Dry Cut Saw I recently reviewed. It’s easy to see where the bulk of that weight comes from – the vise and fence are massive and made from cast iron.

The fence is 3 inches tall and the vise crank and quick release are easy to use – definitely the best vise/fence I’ve seen in any metal dry cut saw. I also really like the chip tray. It’s elongated and runs completely underneath the blade to catch as many metal chips as possible.

EVOSAW380 Metal-Cutting Saw Safety Features

The Evolution EVOSAW380 has a couple built-in safety features – the chip shield and the trigger lock. The chip shield comes down with the saw blade so it’s out of the way when you’re lining up the cut mark and right where you need it when the blade makes contact with the steel. The trigger lock is simple and easy to use with your right hand. When the saw is set up for 45-degree cuts, I’ll often use my left hand to lower the blade and the button isn’t quite as natural to reach.

Jumping in with Both Feet

The base of the saw has two very large rubber feet right up front, but unfortunately, that’s where the rubber feet end… The back of the base rests on the steel corners, slightly lower than the front so the base of the saw isn’t actually sitting level! This really isn’t a big deal when you’re working with small pieces. Correctly supporting a long piece of steel when the saw is setup for 45-degree cuts can prove to be a challenge if you want an accurate vertical drop down the steel.

This would be an easy fix for Evolution—add two more of those HUGE rubber feet to the back of the saw and you will have the most sturdy saw in this class along with the best vise/fence and highest cutting capacity with the 15-inch blade.

15-inch Blade Capacity

Great Scott! This 15-inch saw is going to cut some massive pieces of…. hold on a second… there’s a 14-inch blade on here…? Pro Tip: read the fine print. The Evolution EVOSAW380 has a 15-inch blade capacity, but ships with a 14-inch blade! Luckily I found a “good deal” on the 15-inch blade for $115 shipped (oof).

Using the Evolution EVOSAW380

While I waited on my 15-inch blade to arrive, I spent some time using the EVOSAW380 as my primary metal saw. It’s definitely an impressive product. The vise cranks up against the 3-inch high fence very firmly and gives you a rock-solid bite on the steel. The blade guard actuation is very smooth and the blade itself leaves a great finish cut.

I also really like that Evolution makes a separate blade designed for stainless steel. Stainless can really dull a standard dry cut blade quickly, so I’m more than happy to swap out for the stainless steel blade when I’m cutting that material.

The blade change process is easy; the attached hex key loosens the screw to the arbor guard, which swings out of the way and gives you easy access to the to the arbor bolt and blade.

Using a Larger 15-inch Blade

With the 15-inch blade finally in hand, I eagerly swapped out the 14-inch blade and set the fence at 45 degrees. I couldn’t wait to see if the Evolution EVOSAW380 would actually make a 45-degree edge cut down a piece of 2×6 tubing. I have to accurately make 16 of these cuts each time I sell one of our bed designs and this is time-consuming on the bandsaw because of the back and forth angle setup.

Drumroll please…

It makes the cut!

Barely, but it does. This is a HUGE improvement in productivity. I’ll probably end up building a permanent miter table setup with supports on both sides, fixing the EVOSAW380 with a 15-inch blade at 45 degrees and the Skilsaw at 90 degrees. I’ll save the expensive 15-inch blades for the cuts I actually need them for and use the more affordable 12-inch blades for the bulk of my cutting.

Final Thoughts

If you need serious capacity in a portable dry cut metal saw, look no further than the Evolution EVOSAW380. With the 15-inch blade, the EVOSAW380 can cut bigger steel than any other saw in this class.

There are a couple improvements Evolution could make to the EVOSAW380 (more rubber feet/level base and supplying a 15-inch blade with their 15-inch saw), but overall it’s a fantastic beast of a metal saw.

If you rarely cut steel larger than 4-5 inches, I’d suggest going for a smaller saw. The blades on smaller saws are less expensive to replace and they’re quite a bit lighter and more portable. On the other hand, if you need maximum capacity and a really heavy-duty design, the Evolution EVOSAW380 is a solid choice.

Evolution EVOSAW380 Key Features

• 15″ blade capacity
• Heavy-duty vice construction
• Quick clamp vise
• Clear spark guard attached to blade guard
• Chip collector runs entire length of base
• Slip on pipe attachment for vise
• Cast iron base
• On board tool storage

Evolution EVOSAW 380 Specifications

• Motor (120V ~ 60Hz) – 1800W / 15A
• Horse Power – 2.4HP
• Speed (No Load) – 1450RPM
• Weight – 62 LB
• Mild Steel Plate (Max Thickness) – 1/2″
• Square Tube at 90° (Mild Steel) – 5”
• Square Tube at 45° (Mild Steel) – 3-1/2”
• Rectangle Tube at 90° (Mild Steel) – 3-3/4 x 7-7/8”
• Rectangle Tube at 45° (Mild Steel) – 3 x 4-3/8”
• Round Tube at 90° (Mild Steel) – 5-7/8”
• Round Tube at 45° (Mild Steel) – 5”
• Wood at 90° (Nominal Size) – 4 x 8”
• Wood at 45° (Nominal Size) – 4 x 4”
• Warranty: 3 years
• Price: $379

The post Evolution EVOSAW380 Review appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Skilsaw’s worm drive hand-held circular saws have been around for almost 100 years now. They were so widely used by the professional tradesman for so long that the word “Skilsaw” had become synonymous with “circular saw” (like Sawzall and the reciprocating saw). However, in recent years the Skil brand became diluted with stocking stuffer, multi-use, gimmicky tools, and toolsets. A long-overdue rebranding was necessary to separate their professional-level tools. Having used several of their tools since the delineation, I had little doubt the Skilsaw Outlaw Metal Cutting Saw would be worth my attention.

I recently reviewed the Milwaukee 6370 8″ metal cutting saw. I use the 6370 for cutting metal tubing in custom jigs and metal sheets for tables and sliding doors, so I have a good bit of professional use experience with metal cutting circular saws. When I saw Skilsaw’s new SPT78MMC-22, it definitely looked the part of a professional-grade tool. I was eager to my hands on it and compare the worm drive saw to the 6370 sidewinder.

First Impressions

The first thing I noticed out of the box was that there was no case, not even a bag. I’m a big fan of hard cases; they definitely aid in extending tool life. I consider this a disappointment for a tool at this price point.

As expected, the Skilsaw Outlaw is noticeably heavier than Milwaukee’s 6370, a known characteristic of any worm drive circular saw.

As I familiarized myself with the weight, balance, and functions of the SPT78MMC-22, the outstanding build quality is self-evident. It’s an impressively stout saw, and the saw sits much firmer on its base than Milwakee’s 6370. The included Diablo blade is a nice touch – you don’t have to purchase the saw AND a quality blade to get going.

When comparing the design of the two saws, Milwaukee looks fairly lop-sided, having the motor oriented in line with the blade. With the cut depth set at only a 1/2 inch for 10 gauge steel sheets, Skilsaw’s motor and handle are almost all the way up.

The well-balanced Skilsaw Outlaw feels much more stable at this angle. The blade position on the Skilsaw allows for a line of sight to view the actual cut as you’re making your pass.

At this depth, however, the Skilsaw handle is at a less comfortable angle than Milwaukee’s and the reach is a little farther since the handle is on the right side of the blade.

Using the Skilsaw Metal Worm Drive

The Skilsaw Outlaw is very smooth and easy to use; it cuts through steel like wood. The torque produced by the worm drive is significantly greater than the sidewinder style Milwaukee and the balance of the tool gives it more stability on the foot of the saw. The added stability will give you more accurate, cleaner cuts since the saw won’t wobble back and forth from the unbalanced weight of the motor.

Ergonomics

The Skilsaw SPT78MMC-22 is noticeably heavier when aligning the foot to the fence and lifting the saw on and off of the work piece. The weight difference doesn’t bother me for my type of use. I can certainly see how the lighter Milwaukee could be at an advantage on a jobsite, up and down ladders, single-handed use, etc…

Ripping a 24″ strip off of a 4’ x 8’ sheet of steel (or wood, for that matter) is challenging on any circular saw. You have to reach over a 2-foot section of material and guide the saw down your straight edge fence, all while balancing the saw near its highest setting (shallow plunge). It was in this specific cut that I noticed the difference in handle angles.

Milwaukee’s saw handle remains more vertical. I found it easier to push forward as I reached across the cut. Skilsaw’s handle actually sits a bit further away on the other side of the blade and rests at a more horizontal angle. The difference was noticeable to me, but that could very well be from my level of comfort with Milwaukee. That cut is not what I’d call comfortable on any saw—unless of course, I’m sitting comfortably with a margarita watching someone else make it.

Other Noticeable Differences

There were a few more differences worth noting; the sight windows on the Outlaw are great for double-checking your mark against the blade before starting your cut. Calculating 1/16 inch measurements and blade widths to get your fence at the right mark can make you second-guess yourself. That happens quite often given the price of materials these days!

The vented chip tray is a nice touch. Metal chips are hot and the tray is right next to the blade. The vent allows some heat to escape, keeping your blade cooler.

Blade change out is also easier for Skilsaw. Milwaukee’s blade exchange is very tight between the upper and lower blade guards while Skilsaw’s slides right in and out.

I also love the plunge lever. It’s easy to access and use with your left thumb without letting go of the handle.

Skilsaw Outlaw Worm Drive Metal Saw Specifications

• Model: Skilsaw SPT78MMC-22
• Drive: Worm Drive
• Motor: 15 Amp
• Blade Diameter: 8 Inches
• Max Cutting Depth: 2-3/4 Inches
• Weight: 15.4 Pounds
• Price: $299
• Warranty: 1-year

Final Thoughts

The balanced orientation of the Skilsaw Outlaw’s motor feels more stable as you cut. You can definitely feel the torque of the worm drive. We expect that given the reputation and track record of its design. Even though it’s heavier, Skilsaw’s design is superior in several areas. What I’d like to see them work on for the next generation is making that handle a bit more ergonomic when it comes to the angle and reach for cutting sheet metal in particular.

Skilsaw definitely came out swinging with the SPT78MMC-22. Although the lighter Milwaukee 6370 ($289) that comes with a case might be a better jobsite selection, the more powerful, worm-drive Skilsaw ($309) is worth the $20 premium for my shop. I’m on board with the professional rebrand and new product line. Next stop – more Skilsaw tools!

The post Skilsaw Outlaw Worm Drive Metal Saw SPT78MMC-22 appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Hi, my name is Jon and I am addicted to air sanders…About four years ago, while looking for a 12-step program or support group for my problem, I ended up purchasing a large compressor to support my habit of powering a few sanders at a time. I was committed; I piped my whole shop with air lines and hose reels. There was no turning back. This review aims to see if the Festool LEX 3 air sanders can stave off the onslaught of the electric competition.

Air sanders are low profile, lightweight, have less vibration than their electric counterparts, and when properly cared for, they’ll last forever (no motor to burn up). So, why are they such a rarity in American woodshops? Better yet, can the new Festool Lex 3 Air Sanders reverse the trend?

Why Pneumatic Sanders Don’t Get to Sit at the Cool Kids’ Table

The answer to my first question is any combination of a handful of significant drawbacks. First, compressors that can supply 10-15 CFM @ 90 PSI per sander can get expensive. Secondly, cooling that air enough to remove all the moisture can be very tricky without additional large expenses. Third, you have to oil the sanders to keep them running fast and lasting long, but it’s difficult to prevent that oil from misting onto your unfinished workpiece through the air exhaust on the back of the sander. Rarely do you want to oil all of your air lines in a woodshop, since duster nozzles are frequently used to clean off raw wood surfaces. Finally, dust extraction through most air sanders is sub-par and you lose out on “auto-on” features found on many dust extractors when used with electric sanders.

For me, the benefits of using air sanders still outweighed the drawbacks. I was running sanders from Dynabrade, Ingersoll Rand, and DeWalt to cover all my bases. Having made custom modifications to address each issue (aside from the auto-on feature), I knew there had to be something better.

I knew Festool sold air sanders but wasn’t sure the North American Festool Lex 2 sanders would be a good fit for the way I do things. When I came across the lower profile Festool LEX 3 Air Sanders on Amazon, and re-read the “3-in-1 Hose Connection” bullet points, I decided to dig into the parts again. It seemed as though Festool was providing a solution for every known drawback to using air sanders for woodworking.

Putting the Pieces Together

It may feel like your Festool CT Dust Extractor is up for a starring role in the next Transformers movie or just got selected for an episode of Pimp My Ride, but the add-on parts transformation will be well worth it. I’ll do my best to simplify the options and setup for the Festool CT 36 HEPA Dust Extractor that I use. Here’s what you’ll need and why you’ll need it:

Service Unit – 495886

This is the regulator and oiler unit that mounts to your CT Dust Extractor. The pressure setting on your regulator will more closely match actual pressure at the sander the closer it is to the tool. Having the oiler at the dust extractor means you don’t have to have your entire air line oiled. There’s even a pre-oil coupler for plugging in a dusting nozzle. There are a couple of different part numbers for the service unit, so make sure to order the one that correctly fits your extractor model.

Compressed Air Module – 496141

The compressed air module is a key component of my Festool Lex 3 Air Sander system. This is what allows the Festool CT Dust Extractor to kick on and off automatically, activated by air flow through the lines. There are a couple of different part numbers for the air module, so make sure to order the one that correctly fits your extractor model.

IAS Hose System

The Festool IAS hose design allows for air supply, air exhaust, and dust extraction in one hose, with one simple 360º swivel connection point at the sander.

It. Is. Awesome.

Not only does Festool eliminate tangle between the air and dust hoses, they divert the oily air away from your work piece.

There are two options in the IAS hose system; IAS 2 and IAS 3. Both have the same connection at the tool, however the IAS 2 requires an adapter at the CT Dust Extractor and IAS 3 requires no adapter. The IAS 2 exhausts the air from the tool through the hose to prevent oil on the surface. By contrast, the IAS 3 exhausts air at the tool, yet without spraying oil droplets on your work surface. I went with the IAS 3 and can attest that it leaves no oil on the work piece. This newer hose is also lighter weight since an exhaust hose doesn’t have to run through the main hose.

CT Boom Arm Bundle Set – M0114

The boom is not a requirement, but I highly recommend adding it to the setup. The IAS hoses are a bit heavier than standard dust collection hoses, so it’s nice to have the boom arm to free you up from managing the hose around corners/edges. You can also really take advantage of the 360º swivel connection when the hose is kept off your work piece.

I’ll get more into the boom arm in part 3 of my series on Festool sanding systems, where I’ll focus on CT accessories and sanding workflow.

Conversion Notes

Festool is a German company and they don’t seem to sell much of the pneumatic line here in the U.S., so expect a little puzzle-solving during the initial setup. The European pneumatic couplers and plugs aren’t compatible with ours, plus they are threaded BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread), which is a non-tapered thread, unlike our common NPT (National Pipe Thread). This combination requires switching out some of the fittings for those that work with what is found on US pneumatic tools and adding BSPT to NPT adapters to fit the threading properly.

Finding adapters here can be a challenge, but you will find everything you need at a hydraulics supplier. That sector lives and dies by BSPT fittings and I found my local guy to be incredibly helpful.

Using Festool Lex 3 Air Sanders

Festool Lex 3 Air Sanders are as close to ergonomic and performance perfection as I’ve experienced in one tool. I love the paddle switch on pneumatic sanders. It’s placement feels like you just hold the sander and it turns on – let go and it turns off. With the CT 36 in lockstep, I feel like a sanding magician! Hmmm, now that the boom arm is managing the hose, I have a free hand. Maybe I should get a wand…

Anyway, one of the unique features of the paddle switch is that although the LEX 3 air sanders have a variable speed lever, you can also manage your speed by partially releasing the paddle. Like a variable speed trigger, this makes it much easier to decrease the sander’s aggressiveness on the fly, when softening edges or sanding delicate areas of your work piece.

Festool also implemented a pad brake on the LEX 3 air sanders so you can set the tool down almost immediately after releasing the switch without accidentally scratching the surface by way of a spinning pad.

The three Festool LEX 3 models I’m using are the 150/7 (6”, 7mm course stroke), the 150/3 (6”, 3mm fine stroke), and the 77/2.5 (3”, 2.5mm fine stroke). The 7mm stroke on the LEX 3 150/7 makes it a very powerful sander – the most aggressive random orbit air sander I’ve used. It levels glue seams and removes material very quickly. With a fresh 100-grit sanding disc, it can feel a little jumpy for the first few seconds, but quickly settles into a smooth sanding pattern. I typically use the LEX 3 150/7 for grits of 100–150.

The LEX 3 150/3 is easily the smoothest and most consistent sander I’ve ever used. It has next to no vibration. Of the standard wood finish options at my furniture company, there are two where I purposefully sand an uneven/worn pattern into the wood after oxidizing it. The Festool LEX 3 150/3 is so smooth and sands so consistently that it’s difficult to get the achieve the distressed look I’m going for!

This sander has brought my clean/even toned finishes to a new level of perfection. It’s particularly noticeable how well it does on my hand-rubbed, white-tinted oil finish on ash that moonlights as a sanding scratch highlighter.

The LEX 3 77/2.5 is the perfect size to reach into those tight spots and recesses. It’s nice to just switch out the sander without having to get out one of my small electric “tight spot” sanders. There are still small areas that I’ll sand by hand, but those spots are fewer and farther between with this little guy at my disposal.

Festool LEX 3 vs Other Air Sanders

My mind always defaults to cars when trying to articulate the differences between two similar tools, so I’m going to run with it. Let’s say you need a 4-door sedan, but you love performance vehicles. My previous air sander setup was akin to purchasing a Honda Accord, changing out wheels, tires and brakes, upgrading the exhaust, tuning the engine, adding a cold air intake and bigger radiator, yada, yada, yada…

In other words, you might be able to push the limits and get specs close to a BMW M5 on paper, but it’s just not the same. One the other hand, the Festool Lex 3 Air Sander setup was just like buying the BMW straight from the dealer.

The Festool LEX 3 system was designed from the ground up with production performance in mind, and the result puts Festool in a completely different league. The increase in productivity and quality is significant and immediately noticeable.

Like a BMW, the improvement is not attributed to one single aspect of the system, but the system as a comprehensive experience. You’re simply not going to be able to match the Festool Lex 3 system with anything else, no matter how you customize it.

Festool LEX 3 Air Sanders vs Festool ETS EC Brushless Sanders

In Part 1 of my 3-part series on Festool sanding systems, I reviewed the new electric ETS EC Brushless Sanders. I hope it’s apparent from the article that I was thoroughly impressed with the performance and design. My Dynabrade air sanders have been living in the sander drawer at least 80% of the time since then, and the ETS EC sanders have taken over the primary sanding position.

I’ve been growing accustomed to their power and efficiency, as well as the simplicity of rolling around the CT Dust Extractor with the Workcenter attached to the top (more on that in part 3). Wherever I’m working, I just wheel the entire sanding station along with me – it’s very convenient.

By the time I received all my CT conversion accessories and my Festool LEX 3 Air Sanders, I had a really solid feel for the best electric sanding setup currently on the market (in my opinion, of course), as well as a good history of using very highly rated random orbit air sanders. A comparison between Festool’s electric and pneumatic systems had to be made.

I honestly feel like I have the two best sanding systems on the market in my shop, running simultaneously. There is no doubt the ETS EC sanders are very powerful, fast, well-engineered, and have great features. In comparison, Festool LEX 3 Air Sanders trade off some of that power for ergonomics. Air sanders aren’t for everyone, but if you’re willing to open your mind a bit, you might find that the pneumatic power blows away electric in some aspects – and they may just suit your needs perfectly. Here are my pros and cons for the two systems:

Festool LEX 3 Air Sander System

PROs

• Lightweight
• Smooth operation
• Paddle switch
• Fast tool change out
• Tangle-free 360º swivel hose
• Best finish sander I’ve used

CONs

• Requires large air compressor
• Expensive CT Dust Extractor conversion
• Not as aggressive as the ETS EC

Festool ETS EC Brushless Sander System

PROs

• Lots of torque / Fast material removal
• Better dust removal
• Easier to use with other tools (primarily routers and circular saws)
• Lower setup cost

CONs

• Heavier
• Longer tool change out time
• Hose and power cord get twisted

Final Thoughts

Festool LEX 3 Air Sanders certainly aren’t for everyone, nor are they for every woodshop. However, if you have plenty of air power and you do a lot of finish sanding at a production level, you’d be hard-pressed to find a faster, more comprehensive, and well-thought-out sanding system that will yield this high quality of a finish on a consistent basis – all while operating more smoothly than anything else on the market.

I’ve used and owned a lot of sanders, both pneumatic and electric, and even though the Festool ETS EC Brushless Sanders have a bit more torque and can sand more aggressively, the Festool LEX 3 Air Sanders are by far my favorite. I’ve found my holy grail and I’ll probably never change.

The post Festool LEX 3 Air Sanders Review appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

True Corded Power Claimed by Metabo 18V Brushless Angle Grinder

Metabo is one of a few brands of power tools that isn’t widely known outside of professional circles. You have to dawn the door of your local steel/welding supply yard to actually experience the tool in person. This, however, is something that may soon change as Hitachi recently acquired the brand for $180 million, and Hitachi is distributed across many retail outlets.

I was originally exposed to the Metabo brand while researching better methods for finishing the stainless steel components of my furniture when I came across their Burnishing Machine. I hadn’t seen anything like it before, and after using it, found that it delivered the most professional finish I’d ever seen from a handheld power tool. I also discovered that I could use it to achieve really unique effects in my wood finishes.

I recently reviewed the Makita brushless/cordless grinder, and although I felt that the tool didn’t meet my initial expectations, there were quite a few redeeming factors and it is still in regular use at the shop. Metabo recently released a brushless/cordless grinder with their new 5.5 amp hour LiHD batteries and they were eager to see how the Metabo WPB 18 LTX 115 Quick stacked up against my Makita experience.

Metabo WPB 18 LTX 115 Quick Out of the Box

Specifications

• Model: Metabo WPB 18 LTX 115 Quick
• Kit Item Number: 6.13074.62
• Power Source: 18V Battery Pack
• Battery Pack Tested: 5.5 Ah LiHD
• Grinding Disc Size: 4 1/2 “
• No-Load Speed: 9000 /min
• Spindle Thread:5/8″ – 11 UNC
• Weight (including battery): 5.7 lbs
• Warranty: 3 years, tool and batteries
• MSRP: $219 (bare tool), $439 (5.5 amp hour LiHD kit), $479 (6.2 amp hour LiHD kit)

Shop all Metabo products at Acme Tools!

Included in Kit

• Metabo WPB 18 LTX 115 Quick
• (2) 5.5 amp hour LiHD batteries
• Cutting guard clip
• Guard
• Inner support flange
• Quick adjusting nut
• Side handle
• Dust filter
• Charger ASC 30-36 V “AIR COOLED”

I’m definitely a fan of the hard case. Not many brands have stuck with them, but I’m glad Metabo has. The case contents are fairly standard: tool, charger, 2 batteries (these are massive), handle, and a guard. One included accessory I’ve not seen before is a cutting guard clip, and one that seemed missing at first glance was the lock nut wrench. The cutting guard clip is a little tricky to get back off once you properly attach it, but it does cover a significant portion of the blade and offers quite a bit more protection than the guard alone. I discovered there is no lock nut wrench included because Metabo’s quick-locking nut conveniently tightens without the use of one.

One feature that really jumps out at me as I look over the tool for the first time is the swiveling battery pack. These LiHD batteries are much bigger than the Makita batteries and being able to swivel a full 360º means I can always re-orient the battery if it’s cumbersome in a tight spot.

The Bump and Grind

When it comes to cordless grinders, the most important factors are power and battery life. Metabo claims their new 18V brushless angle grinder “cuts” like an 11 AMP corded grinder while outperforming other cordless grinders. I was disappointed with Makita’s performance based on their claims, so I didn’t have high hopes the Metabo would be much better. But to my surprise, the Metabo WPB 18 LTX was much more powerful than Makita’s model. I don’t do enough “cutting” with my grinders to validate their 11 AMP claim, but I can definitely attest Metabo is on par with a quality brand 9-10 AMP grinder when it comes to weld removal, which is a much more torque-heavy application.

I don’t think Metabo’s claims are out of line when it comes to performance. The battery life was on par with the Makita, however the Metabo worked faster and accomplished more in the 20-30 minutes of 70-80% duty cycle use. Metabo’s LiHD batteries take about 1:45 to fully charge, but can go straight from heavy use to the charger without issue. Compare that to the Makita battery, which only takes about 20 minutes to fully charge, but is too hot right off the tool and requires a significant amount of cool down time before the charger will accept it. In either case, when you have a lot of heavy grinding in front of you, you’ll need more than 2 batteries and 1 charger to keep working at a heavy duty cycle pace, but the Metabo will get more work done in a shorter amount of time.

The Metabo WPB 18 LTX 115 Quick is pretty feature rich from top to bottom: the swiveling battery pack and quick lock nut stand out the most throughout regular use. I often have to sneak the grinder into tight vertical clearances on my steel furniture legs and orienting the battery horizontally allows me to more comfortably position the grinder. In these positions, I’ll admit that I miss the locking switch feature on the Makita, but I respect the safety argument for Metabo’s dead-man paddle switch.

The Metabo quick lock nut is really convenient – you can apply a safer level of torque when tightening the wheel down and still remove it without grabbing an additional tool. When I switch out wheels on my other grinders, I rarely tighten them with the supplied wrench; I only go to the toolbox for the wrench when the wheel is too tight to loosen by hand with my gloves on.

I definitely appreciate Metabo leaving the battery life indicator on the battery instead of the tool, as with the Makita grinder. However, the battery pack release lever being on the tool instead of the battery pack did take a little getting used to.

One last thing I want to mention about the Metabo WPB 18 LTX 115 Quick is the fast brake wheel. I’ve really grown to love how quickly my Festool sanders stop spinning when you turn the tool off and Metabo’s fast brake is no different. It allows you to set the grinder down almost right away without having to first skid the flap/cutting wheel to a stop. Once you get used to this feature and then switch back to a grinder or sander that doesn’t stop quickly, you really appreciate the fast brake. Metabo definitely thought through the design and features of their new brushless grinders.

Final Thoughts

Of the primary three brushless/cordless angle grinders currently on the market (Metabo, Milwaukee, and Makita), my vote for the winner is Metabo by a long shot. I’ve used all three and the Metabo is the closest experience to a corded grinder when it comes to power and performance. Not only was I able to flatten welds at a faster pace; the battery outlasted the other brands without overheating. I could go straight from bearing down on a weld to the charger without issue. I still think we have some time before we see a total cordless takeover of the grinder market the way we have in the cordless drills space, but we are definitely seeing significant progress. The Metabo WPB 18 LTX 115 Quick is very close to a complete replacement of a 9-10 AMP grinder, with the only drawback being price and battery charge time.

The post Metabo WPB 18 LTX 115 Quick Brushless Angle Ginder Review appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Sanding was one of those woodworking steps that always seemed an easy part of the finishing process… that is, until I started selling my pieces professionally and looking more closely at the detail in my finished product. I had no idea how difficult it was to achieve a smooth, flat, consistent, swirl-free finish on a massive solid wood tabletop without having access to industrial wide-belt sanding machinery. I’ve used everything from belt sanders to random orbit sanders, sheet sanders, inline sanders, and pneumatic random orbit sanders.

After burning up a few electric motors and navigating my way through the sea of abrasive options, I’d settled on Dynabrade pneumatic random orbit sanders, Klingspor abrasives, and my Festool CT 36 HEPA dust extractor for tooling. I’m fortunate enough to have a 120-gallon compressor that puts out about 40 cfm at 90 psi, so although pneumatic sanders do have their short list of woodworking drawbacks, sufficient air supply to run a couple of sanders at a time was not a hurdle for me.

When Clint DeBoer returned from his trip to Germany, having toured the Festool factories, he was pretty excited to tell me about their Festool ETS EC Brushless Sanders. After reading the afore-linked article and hearing the claims from Festool (“performance of an air sander”), I was definitely interested in doing a real-world comparison with my pneumatic setup. I also did some reading up on the Festool LEX 3 pneumatic setup (found only on their international site), so I plan to get into how Festool answers some of the drawbacks to pneumatic sanding as well while I work through integrating Festool LEX 3 Sanders and a CT Dust Extractor Conversion (sorting through the parts and options)

Festool ETS EC Brushless Sanders Models and Specifications

Festool ETS EC Brushless Sanders Out of the Box

If you’ve read any of my previous reviews, you know I’m a fan of hard cases. I feel the industry has stepped backward with soft canvas bags, but Festool is a definite step forward in this area. Festool power tools come in hard case-meets-toolbox “Systainers” which not only attach to your CT Dust Extractor or Systainer Carts but also their other sorting/storage containers called… wait for it… “Sortainers”. This system and cross-tool connectivity approach are one of the many benefits of acquiring a shop full of Festool. I give them an absolute A+ for packaging and storage.

Picking up Festool ETS EC Brushless Sanders for the first time, you definitely feel the quality. The handle is very comfortable and more versatile than my Dynabrade and the weight feels very balanced. Although the Festool ETS EC Brushless Sander is heavier than my Dynabrade and slightly taller, it’s about half the weight of my DeWalt 5” & Bosch 6” electric random orbit sanders and the profile is way over on the pneumatic side. I also get to plug in Festool’s new sleeved hose with the integrated power cord. This will prevent the edges of your workpiece from snagging the standard ribbed hose.

I Know You’re Excited, But Try to Systainer Yourself…

With my Dynabrade pneumatic sander, I used my CT 36 manually, meaning I had to turn the dust extractor on and off every time I started/stopped sanding. I know it’s not difficult to turn the switch back and forth and I’m not complaining about the effort involved, but many times I’d shut it off to switch sanding discs and forget to turn the dust extractor back on again without noticing for a few minutes. That’s enough time to get dust all over your workpiece and a decent coating of dust in your schnoz. All this to say, the auto on/off feature is awesome and now I can use it! Speaking of automatically communicating with your extractor, the Festool ETS EC Brushless Sanders have a pretty cool feature that lets you set the sanders to only work when an extractor is connected, making sure you don’t accidentally coat the inside of your nose and everyone else’s with dust. I activated this feature on each of the sanders and it works flawlessly.

Sanding and More Sanding

One of the first pieces I sanded with the Festool ETS EC Brushless Sanders was a solid maple coffee table. I instantly felt a difference in the vacuum force. Festool claims an innovative Multi-Jetstream dust extraction feature. I was so taken aback by the vacuum force that I turned the extractor on manually, stuck the Festool ETS EC 150/5 directly on the vertical side of the coffee table and slowly moved my hands away (after, of course, putting a wadded up moving blanket underneath my $485 tool) and… it stuck! The CT 36 bag was ¾ full to boot! I tested every other sander in my shop and had nowhere near the suction.

I’ve had the Festool ETS EC Brushless Sanders in my shop now for about a month and I can attest, they are as smooth as my Dynabrade sanders. The electronic vibration control makes a world of difference. I could spend an entire day working with the ETS EC’s and experience no numbness in my hands and no more fatigue than typical with pneumatics. They’re also easy on the ears: I don’t think they are any louder than my Dynabrade and they’re definitely less “whiny”. The weight difference doesn’t bother me on horizontal surfaces, though it’s noticeable on vertical surfaces. When rounding/softening corners, I prefer the lightweight Dynabrade with the variable speed paddle (more on that later). The ETS EC sanders also deliver very consistent power, even under pressure. You can definitely bog down a pneumatic sander before you can bog down the Festool brushless sander.

Standout Features

There was one unexpected feature that didn’t initially strike me but turned out to be something I really appreciated: the pad brake. The sanding pad on the Festool ETS EC Brushless Sanders comes to a shockingly sudden halt as soon as you power off – you can set the sander back down on your workpiece right away without putting patterned scratches back in the wood. With the Dynabrade, the pad spins out for a while unless you manually stop it with your palm or your jeans. If you set the Dynabrade back down on your wood surface before it comes to a complete stop, you’ll be sanding out a few half-moon scratches before you’re done.

One feature missing, when compared with the Dynabrade, is the variable speed paddle. I think this feature is exclusive to pneumatics, but it’s one I’ve grown accustomed to without realizing it. It’s second nature to me now to lift my hand a bit to slow down the Dynabrade speed when softening a corner or touching up a spot here or there. The Festool ETS EC Brushless Sanders do indeed have a variable speed adjustment, but you have to turn the dial down. I honestly don’t think an electronic variable speed paddle switch is feasible, nor would it function quite like a pneumatic lever, but it’s worth mentioning.

Final Thoughts

If you are in the market for new sanding equipment, I definitely recommend Festool. Using Festool ETS EC Brushless Sanders with my Festool CT 36 really brought out the features of both tools and highlighted how they function as a system to yield a superior finish. When it comes to which system to choose (air or electric), go electric and go brushless if you don’t already have a massive compressor or if you’re looking for a job site sander. The Festool ETS EC Brushless Sanders are easily in league with pneumatic sanders—even better than some I’ve tried. They also land on par with my favorites—definitely the closest feel to a pneumatic of any electric sander I’ve used. If you already own some serious air, stay tuned for when we compare Festool’s LEX 3 Air Sanders to their ETS EC Brushless Sanders.

The post Festool ETS EC Brushless Sanders Review appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

The first time I heard of Triton power tools was when I came across the Torque Work Centre. In the product details it mentions that there’s an accessory that attaches Triton routers to the Work Centre. I remember thinking, “What’s a Triton router?” In doing a quick Internet search to find that not only were the routers on the expensive side, there didn’t seem to be much information about them in the US (the company is based in Australia). However, in recent years Triton has been gaining quite a bit of steam here via their affiliation with Kreg. I believe the relationship has changed at this point, but the details are murky. Having no personal experience with the brand, but reading about some of the unique features on the Triton TRA001 router, I was pretty excited to hear that Triton sent one over to get our professional thoughts.

Initial Thoughts

I currently have five different routers at my shop which I use on a regular basis, so it was easy for me to pull the Triton TRA001 out of the box and make an instant comparative analysis. First impression: heavy, well built, and feature-rich. The most prominent feature is the rack-&-pinion plunge dial with micro adjustment, but one of the coolest features is the automatic spindle lock at full plunge for single wrench collet removal. The right handle has a button that switches the router from traditional free-plunge to rack-&-pinion dial adjustment, giving you a more controlled plunge into your work piece. After switching back and forth a few times and getting a feel for the system, I found the operation to be very smooth. When you plunge the router to full depth, the shaft lock engages and locks out the power switch (preventing accidental starting), allowing for single-handed bit change – very nice.

There are a few more details worth noting right out of the box: the plunge stop system is very easy to use and gives you three stopping points, two with measurements. The dust shield system looks very elaborate – I can’t seem to get any of my dust extractor fittings to work in the threaded port of the Triton TRA001, so we’ll go without an extractor for now and see how the shields work on their own. The multi-function fence for edge guiding and (small) circle cutting, can be taken on and off very quickly without any additional tools.

Router… I Barely Know Her

As mentioned above, I have a collection of routers at Seventeen20 (my shop), each one set up for different purposes, based on its individual strengths. The first place I tried out the Triton was in my horizontal template jig for 2-1/4″ deep box joints. I currently suspend my Bosch 1619EVS router from a tool balancer to bear the entire weight of the router. The balancer allows me to focus my energy on keeping the router flat against the template guide instead of on holding 13.2 lbs out in front of myself for a couple hours straight. Although the Triton TRA001 had plenty of power for this deep cut (and actually felt more powerful than my Bosch 3-1/4 HP), the round handles on the Triton didn’t give me quite as much control as the Bosch’s.

I decided to leave the Bosch in its current box joint station and float the Triton TRA001 around for a week. I found myself gravitating towards the Triton for larger/deeper plunge recesses into the bottoms and sides of tabletops for steel legs and braces. The Triton TRA001 router’s rack-&-pinion plunge and plunge stop systems definitely shine here. I was able to repetitively plunge to consistent depths with much more control than a free-plunge router. This plunge system is by far the best feature of the Triton router.

There are two drawbacks that stood out to me during “general” routing use, and I’ll admit that the first one may be personal preference because I’ve not seen anyone else mention this about Triton routers—the handles felt too high to me. I constantly found myself reaching for the base with my left hand, just to have some of my forearm on the table for control. The handle position may be tied to the rack-&-pinion plunge system (in which case I’d still choose it for the plunge system, over having lower handles), but it might be worth the effort to offer a removable handle that threads into the base for this type of routing. The second drawback is how quickly the dust buildup inside the shield prevents you from seeing your work piece. This may very well change once I figure out the correct dust collection hose to use. It does, however, seem like a pretty reasonable request to include a dust port attachment that properly threads into the shield system, which would totally eliminate this issue. The internet is littered with users asking about an hose adapter as well. I ended up pulling off the shields for now.

I Don’t Always Use a Router Table, But When I do, I Prefer Dos Equis… I Mean, Triton.

The final position the Triton TRA001 tried out for was the router table. I don’t use my Kreg router table on a daily basis, but it does get a fair amount of use overall and it is currently underpowered with a 2HP router. Aside from the beastly 3-1/4 HP motor, the Triton has three specific features that really stand out in table use: the completely removable spring, the smoothly operating height adjustment, and the automatic spindle lock for single-handed bit changes. My Bosch router has a spring lock for use under the table, but it becomes tricky to engage/disengage when dust builds up under the plate. The Triton spring comes all the way out with one screw. You do have to store the spring, but it feels like a better solution compared to other routers. The height adjustment knob is very smooth and works really well, and when you crank the spindle all the way up, you hit the TRA001’s best “table feature” – the spindle locks by itself. With the collet completely above the table surface, and the spindle locked, changing out bits is very simple. You don’t have to fiddle with holding the spindle lock or using a wrench under the table.

I think I’ve found the Triton TRA001’s new home. The only thing I struggled with by leaving it in the table was losing my overall favorite feature: the rack & pinion plunge. Solution? Pick up one of the Triton MOF001 2-¼HP routers. The design and features are identical to its big brother, but at 25% lighter, it isn’t quite as top heavy.  Although the handles are still higher than my preference, the Triton MOF001 feels more stable than the TRA001. The dust shields also seem to function better in the smaller MOF001, especially when routing harder woods. MDF dust still obscures view of the work piece pretty quickly though. Now I have a beast in the table with great features and a more manageable, decently powered, rack & pinion plunge router for free routing and guide use.

Final Thoughts

I’ve long considered my Bosch 1619EVS  to be my favorite 3-1/4 HP router, but priced just under the Bosch online, the Triton TRA001 is a serious contender. Where Bosch wins on ergonomics and well-controlled power, Triton takes the lead with innovative features and raw power. If you do much horizontal routing and/or precise template routing, because of the handle design and finely-tuned power, I’d probably recommend the Bosch. However, if you’re a single router shop and do a lot of plunging and table work, the Triton should be a top choice. For a multi-router shop, the Triton is a fantastic choice for the table.

Triton TRA001 Router Specifications

• Depth Adjustment: Micro Winder
• Electronic Speed Maintenance: Yes
• Maximum No Load Speed: 21,000 RPM
• Speed Under Load: 8,000 – 21,000 RPM
• Motor: 15 amp, 3-1/4 HP
• Weight: 13.2 Pounds
• Safety Power Switch: Yes
• Price: $281.55 (Amazon)
• Warranty: 3 Years

Triton MOF001 Router Specifications

• Depth Adjustment: Micro Winder
• Electronic Speed Maintenance: Yes
• Maximum No Load Speed: 21,000 RPM
• Speed Under Load: 8,000 – 21,000 RPM
• Motor: 13 amp, 2-1/4 HP
• Weight: 10.4 Pounds
• Safety Power Switch: Yes
• Price $229.90 (Online)
• Warranty: 3 Years

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