Arguably one of the oldest tools known to humanity is the hammer. The irony is that we’re still trying to come up with new ways to improve it! While it might be a prehistoric tool, it’s unlikely to go extinct any time soon since most homes (at least in the USA) are still constructed out of wood. While the best nail guns take a lot of the work out of driving nails, you still find a hammer slung from the hip of any framing contractor. For this reason, we looked at many of the current hammers on the market to select the best framing hammer.

The Best Framing Hammer – A Key Tool

In the years I’ve done construction, I’ve found many strong opinions on hammers. Actually, now that I think about it, hammers could be one of the most polarizing tools I’ve encountered. Everyone has their opinions on what makes a good hammer. Steel, wood, or fiberglass handle? Titanium or steel head? Straight or curved handle? Smooth or textured grip? In full disclosure, even I have to admit some bias. My framing hammer of choice for the last several years has been a Douglas 20 oz framer. This hammer is great because of the genius head to handle connection, the straight, chisel-tipped ripping claw, and the side nail puller. The fit and finish are second to none, and there is a certain balance that I appreciate. It is a beautiful blend of function and form. But is it the very best hammer? That’s a very good question. I’d like to find out.

Although I had some favorites, that’s not to completely diminish the other hammers in our lineup. Some of them definitely had some great qualities worth mentioning. Following are our recommendations on the best framing hammer for various applications.

Best Framing Hammer Overall

Stiletto Ti16MC 16 oz.

The claim to fame of the Stiletto Ti16MS framing hammer is its 16 oz. titanium head. This head, combined with a straight hickory handle, was the overall lightest hammer in the lineup. However, it still weighed more than the Stiletto 12 oz Titanium Remodeler hammer. The head is very classic in its style with a large strike face and deep milling.

There is a magnetic nail holder on the top of the head. At the base where the handle is inserted into the head, there is about a 3/4-inch extension of extra metal. This provides some strike protection to the handle. Quite simply, this hammer is a joy to swing, and over time your arm, shoulder, and elbow will thank you. While the $107 retail price tag is the second most expensive in the test, you can find it online for far less. And really, if you’re swinging a hammer all day long, I’m not sure you can put a price on comfort.

Pros: Lightest hammer in the test, Second largest strike face.
Cons: Cost.
Verdict: The heavy-hitter with the lightest swing.
Price: $99.99

Best Framing Hammer for Demolition

DeWalt DWHT51411 17 oz.

While I’m normally a fan of DeWalt tools, this hammer frustrated me. The thing that got to me was the oddly-angled head. What I found is that it never seemed to swing with the feel of a traditional hammer—often striking unevenly. Still, we loved the “Fubar”-like design that grips and twists 2x4s effectly when using a nailer (in your other hand) to secure studs. We also loved the integrated side nail puller.

Pros: Low price, nail puller.
Cons: Odd swing, no nail magnet.
Verdict: While it swings well and hits hard, the sticky coating on this handle will likely drive you nuts.
Price: $37.99

Best Wood-Handled Framer

Vaughan & Bushnell 2115C Dalluge 21 oz. Framing Hammer

The Vaughan & Bushnell 2115C Dalluge Framing Hammer features a 21-ounce waffled head. As a framing hammer, we love the simple design. The 18-inch hickory handle feels great in the hand and gives you a comfortable swing. The steel head also features a magnetic nail holder. Of all the hammers tested, this tool felt most like the quintessential framer.

Pros: Magnetic nail puller, comfortable swing
Cons: None
Verdict: If you want a traditional “no-frills” framing hammer, it doesn’t get better than this.
Price: $65

Dead On Tools 24oz Investment Cast Wood Hammer

We’d call this one a runner-up. This 24-ounce hammer really felt easy to swing—despite its weight. From the black wood handle to the milled face, the Dead On Tools 24oz investment cast wood hammer means business.

We like the magnetic nail set and the confident straight black hickory handle. The hammer measures a full 18-inches from top to tail and it swings very naturally with excellent overall balance. If you’re all about the look this may be your tool!

Pros: Excellent balance, inexpensive.
Cons: No frills, non-replaceable head.
Verdict: This hammer is cool, but it’s not titanium and might have difficulty keeping its good looks.
Price: $99

Best Steel Framing Hammers

DeWalt MIG Weld Framing Hammers

Coming to market with a metal-handled hammer proves tricky since other well-established tools already exist. Where the DeWalt MIG weld framing hammer differs from others is its construction methods. Rather than a single forged handle and head, DeWalt uses three separate steel forges that it then mig welds together.

DeWalt does this so that it can heat treat each of the pieces differently. Combined, the hammer has good wear, toughness, and flexibility in all the right places. All in all, this hammer is comfortable to use. It exhibited decent balance as well. You can find these in sizes ranging from 12 to 15 ounces.

Pros: Light head with a large strike face, Attractive, Easy to swing, Size options.
Cons: Transfers more vibration than a wood-handle hammer.
Verdict: A heavy hammer that swings lighter than you might expect.
Price: $54

Douglas FR-20S or DFR-20S 20 oz.

This Douglas hammer was a gift to me from my brother who is a framing contractor in Alaska. He promised me that this hammer would become one of my favorite tools because of its balance, design, and features. He was completely right, as I’ve used this tool more than any other over the last 5 years since he gifted it to me. This hammer has a genius handle-to-head attachment system that is not only rigid but also provides handle overstrike protection.

Because of how it’s designed, it features one of the easiest-to-replace handles in the industry. The face features inverted dimples which help grip nails still but don’t mar delicate materials, and its built-in side nail pull and almost ruler-straight claw make it easy to do demo and disassembly work. This handle is relatively unchanged throughout the years except that the new model features an attractive red accent color. Unfortunately, Douglas cannot seem to keep this tool in stock. Neither can Vaughan who makes the similar (but titanium) 7180 Dalluge. If you can find one—buy it!

Pros: Stainless steel head, Excellent balance, Great fit and finish.
Cons: Cost and availability (they cannot seem to keep items in stock).
Verdict: In my opinion, this is the hammer to beat.
Price: Vaughan & Bushnell 7282 for $99

Best Titanium Framing Hammer

Stiletto TB3MC 15 oz Ti-Bone titanium hammer

I know we chose the hickory 16-ounce model as our top overall, but this model is titanium through-and-through. This 15-ounce hammer dates back to the beginning of the Stiletto brand. The Stiletto Ti-Bone III titanium hammer features a milled face (they have smooth as well) and an integrated 180º side nail-puller. The TB3MC hammer stands as one of my top four favorites out of the models I looked at.

It really drives hard—like a much heavier steel hammer. I’d put it around 24 ounces or higher if you want a comparison. The hammer features a removable steel face so you can purchase replacement heads (smooth or milled) without having to buy a whole new tool. It also gives you the strength of that steel hit with the weight of a titanium hammer.

It also featured titanium all the way through the hammer—not just at the head. The rubberized grip on the handle gives you a secure hold and doesn’t seem like it will peel or crack. We also love the well-placed thumb indent at the top of the coated handle.

Pros: Great price, Classic look, Nice balance.
Cons: Nothing to complain about here.
Verdict: One of my favorite hammers, and one of the best-looking in the crowd.
Price: Check out the 16oz titanium equivalent for $99

Best Budget Framing Hammer

Dead On 24 oz. Milled Face Straight Hickory Hammer

Dead On used to call this hammer the “Death Stick”. That inherently makes it cool (though not necessarily good). The steel head measures 24 ounces and includes a built-in magnetic nail set. You get a black curved hickory handle. This hammer falls in the middle for overall weight yet it had a balanced feel when swung.

The face of the hammer is not as aggressively textured as I like since it was investment cast and not finish machined. The strike face size is also the second smallest out of the hammers that I looked at. Finally, Dead On heat-treated the face area and claws to maximize life. You can find cheaper hammers, but for the price, we like this as our budget pick.

Pros: Cool name.
Cons: Smaller strike face, not very aggressively textured
Verdict: An aptly named tool whose name and look might be a bigger hit than the actual hammer.
Price: $34

Best Made in the USA Framing Hammers

Hardcore Hammers The Original 19 oz.

The idea behind The Original is certainly innovative. By slightly recessing the waffle, face wear by striking anything other than the nail is pretty much eliminated. However, the area surrounding the face is larger than I would like, so strikes anywhere other than near the dead center of the face are potentially nail-bending shots. Because of the face, it seemed to take an extra whack to really set nail heads flush with the wood. This tended to leave a decent circle imprint around the nail.

We did like the dual nail magnets on the top and bottom of the face. Hardcore Hammers also makes these tools in the USA.

Pros: Double nail magnets, lightweight steel head, hardened steel waffle face.
Cons: Small strike face area, Glancing blows tend to more easily bend the heads of nails.
Verdict: A hammer with a great idea that could use some tweaking.
Price: $105

Vaughan California Framer 19 oz.

The Vaughan California Framer 19 oz hammer has classic styling and size. If you like to wield a full-size hammer that hits hard, this American-made classic isn’t just a good choice—it’s a good value as well. I picked this hammer as one of my top four selections in this line-up.

Pros: Heavy head hits hard, No surprises.
Cons: Not much to complain about.
Verdict: This classic-style hammer hits hard and drives nails home as you’d expect.
Price: $46

Estwing Big Blue 25 oz.

This metal-handled Estwing hammer is probably the most identifiable out of our test. Time and time again I have seen these hammers beat to heck with faces worn smooth from use. Unlike wood-handled hammers, these metal Estwing tools have the distinction of being nearly indestructible. Perhaps that’s what makes them great for pulling nails and heavy-duty prying in addition to their nail-driving abilities.

While this hammer was the heaviest in our test, it still displayed good balance. The USA-made Estwing line of metal-handled hammers sits in my top four hammers list simply because of their durability and balance.

Pros: One piece handle and head, Reasonable price, Nice finish.
Cons: Nothing negative to note.
Verdict: This hammer is practically a staple tool in most contractors’ pouches and bags. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done.
Price: $49

So What Makes for the Best Framing Hammer?

To better understand some hammer technology (yes, there actually is technology involved), it makes sense to have a quick science lesson on the physics of a hammer.

Don’t worry, this won’t hurt much.

How Mass Plays a Role – WARNING: Math Ahead!

A hammer is a force amplifier that converts mechanical work into kinetic energy and back again. When swinging a hammer, kinetic energy gets stored in the hammer’s head. The kinetic energy equals the length of the swing times the force produced by your muscles (and gravity). When the hammer strikes the nail, the nail stops the head with an equal and opposite force.

Where this gets tricky is when you start to take into consideration the effect of the mass of the hammer’s head. The amount of energy delivered to the nail by the hammer is equal to one-half the mass of the head times the square of the head’s speed at the time of impact. The key here is that the energy delivered to the nail increases linearly with mass but it increases quadratically with the speed.

KE = 1/2 mv²

Let me summarize that for you: An easier-to-swing hammer delivers more energy to the nail. This forms one of the key arguments in the titanium hammers vs steel hammers debate.

Hammer Handles Matter Too

Lightweight hammer heads allow for faster swing velocity, but handle designs can also help the efficiency of your swing. That includes taking into account vibration-absorbing materials, length, and angle. Essentially, to find the best framing hammer, it will have to have a combination of certain head and handle qualities that make it feel “right”.

There are literally hundreds of hammers out there, so for the sake of time and practicality, we tried to limit the playing field to framing hammers whose head weights ranged in the low to mid 20 ounces, had long handles, straight rip claws and milled faces. Both titanium and steel models were acceptable. Our list of hammers is in no way inclusive of all that is available. There are many more manufacturers and models that I did not get a chance to put my hands on yet. Perhaps I’ll have to revisit this after I collect and evaluate all of the hate mail I’m sure to get following this best framing hammer review. (I did mention this was a contentious topic, did I not?)

Measuring and Weighing the Best Framing Hammers

I started out by weighing each hammer. Then I measured the face size using calipers, handle length with a tape measure and set up a grid to make comparing and evaluating the various tools easier. When I measured the face, I didn’t use the outer diameter of the head, but rather the area of the milled surface. In almost every hammer that space is smaller than the head’s full outer diameter. I figured it was more important to know the actual striking area of the hammer as opposed to the full head size.

It is also interesting to note that while some hammers might have a lightweight head, the handles sometimes added back enough weight to counteract any gains achieved in shaving off some extra steel. We point this out because a hammer’s weight is more than just the head. It’s the entire hammer (a number manufacturers do not always prominently advertise).

Manually Testing the Framing Hammers

I tested out each hammer with both bright and galvanized 16 penny (16D) nails. I drove the nails into spruce studs and some pressure-treated 4x4s. Since so much of a hammer’s function is dependent on the skill and technique of the user, extensive testing really is not necessary for the scope of this article. In other words—I didn’t have to drive in thousands of nails before drawing some conclusions.

In fact, I took lots of breaks so that I wouldn’t be swayed by a tired arm or a sore wrist. Perhaps in the future, when time and budget permit, I can develop a piece of scientific equipment to analyze things like striking force, vibration, and swing efficiency. While it would be cool to have statistics on these variables, this is ultimately a subjective topic requiring a subjective review.

Reviewing hammers is just like reviewing trucks. Some Pros are polarized on which brand they like. You can test, re-test, and crown a winning truck of the year (every year). Everyone still has their personal preference on what pickup they want to drive.

Maybe the best hammer test would have all of the participants blindfolded and I could hand them a random hammer to see what they really think. While they wouldn’t be swayed by brands, colors, materials, and logos, it might be one of the more painful tests we’ve ever run!

Value, Features, and Performance

After spending some time with all of the hammers I ended up with this list of what I felt were the best. I based this on their value, features, and overall perception of their performance. Of course, nearly any framing hammer will drive a nail. However, not all of them will do it well. In addition to my beloved “benchmark” Douglas framing hammer, I tested steel and titanium selections from Stiletto, Estwing, DeWalt, Vaughan, and others. I also looked at a cross-section of synthetic, steel, and wood handles.

In the same way that I prefer Ford trucks, I might also display a slight bent towards more traditional hammers. This entire experience remains largely subjective.

While I may prefer particular features, the best test of a hammer is picking one up and taking a swing!

Why You Can Trust Pro Tool Reviews

Ever check out a “review” site and you can’t tell if they actually tested the tools or if they’re just “recommending” the Amazon top sellers? That’s not us. We won’t recommend anything unless we’d actually use it ourselves and we don’t really care who the primary retailer is. It’s all about giving you a legitimate recommendation and our honest opinion of each product.

We’ve been in business since 2008 covering tools, writing reviews, and reporting on industry news in the construction, automotive, and lawn care industries. Our Pro reviewers work in the trades and have the skills and experience to know whether tools can perform well in the field.

Each year, we bring in and review more than 250 individual products. Our team will put our hands on hundreds of additional tools at media events and trade shows throughout the year.

The post Best Framing Hammer for Pros appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

DeWalt has several models of laser distance measures. With a variety of features that support a range of leveling and layout applications, DeWalt Laser Distance Measures deliver a variety of accuracies and convenience to the jobsite. Ranging from 30-foot to over 330-foot working ranges, these LDMs all retail for less than $100 and some feature DeWalt Tool Connect.

DeWalt DW040HD 40 ft. Pocket Laser Distance Measurer

This DeWalt DW040HD Pocket Laser Distance Measure measures up to 40 ft. away. The backlit, high contrast LCD display (white on black background) makes it easy to read—even in harsh sunlight. For basic distance measurements and area calculations, this tool deserves a place in your bag or glove box.

It is accurate within 1/4″ at 40 ft., and it uses a Li-ion rechargeable battery. Connect the included USB micro cord to recharge it. The DeWalt DW040HD 40 ft. Laser Distance Measure retails for $29.97 and includes a wrist strap.

DeWalt 40-Foot Laser Distance Measurer Specs

• Model: DeWalt DW040HD
• Accuracy: 1/4″ @ 40 ft.
• Battery: Li-ion rechargeable
• Measuring range: 40 ft
• MSRP: $29.97

DeWalt DW055E 55 ft. Laser Distance Measurer

This pocket-sized DeWalt Laser Distance Measure also features a backlit, high contrast LCD display for visibility in various lighting conditions. This compact and lightweight model can also quickly measure distance for a variety of applications, including painting and flooring estimates.

It is accurate within 1/8″ at 30 ft., and it includes two AAA batteries.  The MSRP on the 55 ft. DeWalt DW055E Laser Distance Measure is about $41.

DeWalt 330-Foot Laser Distance Measurer Specs

• Model: DeWalt DW055E
• Accuracy: 1/8″ @ 30 ft.
• Battery: 2 x AAA
• Measuring range: 55 ft
• MSRP: $41

DeWalt DW099S Bluetooth 100 ft. Laser Distance Measurer

The DeWalt DW099S Bluetooth 100 ft. Laser Distance Measurer comes with Bluetooth-enabled. It works with the DeWalt Tool Connect App to allow for measurement and photo storage.  You can also mark up those photos and retrieve them later within the app. The DeWalt Tool Connect App is available on both Android and Apple platforms.

This model of the DeWalt Laser Distance Measure features a 1.5″ black, backlit LCD screen.  The high contrast screen provides visibility in various lighting conditions. It displays continuous measurement tracking that quickly finds the distance from a target.  Distances are displayed in feet, inches, and meters. It can calculate area and volume, and it can perform simple addition and subtraction functions.

Designed for drop resistance, this model features an over-molded grip. It also comes packaged with a wrist strap for added carrying convenience. Accurate up to 3/32″ at 100′, this DeWalt Laser Distance Measure retails for around $100.

DeWalt 100-Foot Laser Distance Measurer Specs

• Model: DeWalt DW099S
• Bluetooth Enabled
• Accuracy: 3/32″
• Battery: 2 AAA
• Measuring Range: 30 M or 100 Ft
• Calculates Area and Volume
• MSRP: $99.99

DeWalt DW0330S Tool Connect 330 ft. Laser Distance Measurer

The DeWalt DW0330S Tool Connect 330 ft. Laser Distance Measurer lets you take and store measurements. You can also mark up photos using the Tool Connect app as well as create and export projects.

Powered by a single AAA battery, the DeWalt DW0330S Laser Distance Measure features a large backlit color LCD screen. While maintaining a high contrast design, the LCD features helpful color icons to let you know the current mode and measurement settings.

Distances can be displayed in feet, inches, and meters. It also lets you calculate area, volume, and more. Combined with the app, you get a lot of functionality for estimating, remodeling, and trade work.

DeWalt also built this laser measurer with a nice over-molded grip to prevent damage if you drop it. Accurate up to 1/16″ at 30 ft, this DeWalt Laser Distance Measure retails for around $268.

DeWalt 330-Foot Laser Distance Measurer Specs

• Model: DeWalt DW0330S
• Bluetooth Enabled
• Accuracy: 1/16″ @ 30 ft.
• Battery: 1 x AAA
• Measuring range: 330 Ft
• Weight: 0.3 lbs
• Calculates Area and Volume
• MSRP: $268

Final Thoughts

Laser Distance Measurers are great tools for any professional who is estimating distances or working out how much material they might need. They’re quick and relatively easy to use, the range of distance exceeds the capability of the tape measure, and you don’t need a second person to help grab a measurement.  When you can get the accuracy to within the +/- 1/16″ range, the LDM is a great tool for most measurements.

The problem with laser distance measurers—even ones from DeWalt—is that they can be thrown off by the color or material of the surface. They also need an actual surface to bounce a laser off of.  It also can’t grab hold of the end of a board, so “pull” measurements won’t work. Professionals use these tools for their primary strength: estimating. If you need to measure actual material, you likely still need a standard tape measure when accuracy is critical.

All that said, the DeWalt Laser Distance Measure seems helpful for many applications, especially the 100-foot model.  Bluetooth connectivity and online measurement storage seem like a great way to stay organized, and the Tool Connect App has some other neat features, such as battery readings and tool location.

These LDMs are priced pretty well for what they do. In the case of the 100-foot model, you might get better range for the $100 price point, but you don’t see a whole lot of other LDMs with Bluetooth connectivity at that price. For the 40-foot model, the short range and +/- 1/4″ accuracy probably limit it to DIY applications, though for under $30, the professional might find it useful in some capacity.

The post DeWalt Laser Distance Measurers Compared appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

When preparing for a roofing job you need more than just a good coil roofing nailer. You also need more than a solid understanding of OSHA safety rules. Whether it be a complete re-shingle or simply a repair, you’re bound to hear talk about a high-wind nailing pattern. This goes double if you live near the coast or anywhere in Florida. In hurricane-prone areas high-wind nailing patterns are mandated by local building codes.

The high wind shingle nailing pattern came about (officially, at least) in 2003. Since then, the International Building Code required roofers to fasten shingles using six nails. You must also properly space nails in front of the seal line. They required these high-wind-rated products on any roofs in wind regions rated at or above 110 mph. Shingle manufacturers now produce products rated somewhere between 60 and 130 mph, using two-hour duration tests.

See our article on How to use a roofing nailer.

High Wind Nailing Pattern for 3-Tab Shingles

So what does this high wind nailing pattern look like? On traditional 3-tab shingles it would look like this:

Note that the nails are just below the tar line. Keep your nails on either side of the gap. You want them away from the middle of each individual shingle. That ensures the gap in the shingle above doesn’t expose the nail head underneath. Here is a visual example of what you don’t want:

High Wind Nailing Pattern for Architectural Shingles

For architectural or dimensional shingles, the nailing pattern would look something like this:

With architectural shingles, you don’t have to worry about nails poking through the gaps. Unlike 3-tab shingles, they use an architectural layer atop a solid layer so no gaps exist. As a result, you simply space out the nails evenly across the width of the shingle. Be sure to keep around 1-inch in from the sides and keep the nails just below the tar line. You also don’t want any nails to appear below the level of the shingle that rests on top of the nails.

Additional Tips for the Work

Some roofing coil nailers have an adjustable shingle guide. This lets you automatically set the position of the nail with respect to the bottom of the shingle. This is extremely handy, though after a while you will likely find yourself, guide-free, nailing away quickly and accurately once you’ve done a couple of rows.

We recommend a 6 nail pattern regardless of whether or not you live in a high-wind area. It simply doesn’t take all that much more effort. Most people use pneumatic roofing nailers, so adding n extra couple of hits takes little effort. The cost certainly isn’t much more either. Take into account the hassle associated with any kind of early roofing material failure, and you’ll probably agree that a little extra time and money spent up front can save a lot of hassle down the road.

The post High Wind Nailing Pattern for Shingles Installation appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

To solve the problem of a very hot work environment, we set about installing radiant barrier in a shop using AtticFoil. We chose AtticFoil for our radiant barrier installation for several reasons. First, they manufacture rolls in multiple sizes. While AtticFoil sells more 48-inch rolls than anything else, we selected 26-inch wide rolls to span our shop trusses. Second—we also like that AtticFoil bills itself as a DIY brand—meaning they intend for consumers to purchase these products for installation without professional help.

Editor’s Note: Our large shop uses pole barn construction. As a result, the joist construction closely resembles an attic—just without the attic floor. That means the same installation methods used here—as well as the benefits of the radiant barrier—apply equally to a residential attic.

Check out our article on What is Radiant Barrier to learn more about radiant barrier technology.

Step 1: Determine How Much Material You Need

We were installing the radiant barrier in a shop space measuring 63×40. To figure the math, we took the area and multiplied it by 25% to account for the rather steep 6/12 roof pitch as well as some extra to cover the East-facing front peak and any potential overages. The formula ends up looking something like this:

65 ft x 43 ft x 1.25 = 3,493 sq ft

Calculating the Costs When Installing Radiant Barrier

With our amount in mind, we placed the order for 26″ Wide Heavy Radiant Barrier Foil online. While many choices exist for radiant barrier, AtticFoil presents a great value. Figure roughly $182 per 1000 sq. ft. The material comes in 500 sq. ft. rolls—perfect since you can still manipulate these rolls easily. There are additional price breaks as you order higher quantities, but you see the biggest drop at 1,000 sq. ft. Ordering 3,500 sq. ft. would cost $622.95, or 17.8 cents ($0.178) per sq. ft.

Step 2: Prep Your Tools

For installing radiant barrier you need a few things. First and foremost, the Milwaukee M12 cordless staple gun saves your wrist—not to mention hours of time. Using a manual stapler to affix 3500 square feet of radiant barrier sounds like a bad idea. Do yourself a favor and buy this cordless tool. You also need a LOT of staples. Plan on going through a box of 1,250 for every 1,000 sq. ft. of material you install. 3/8-inch T50 style staples work great for this application.

In our installation, we didn’t have an attic floor. That meant we needed fall protection. For that, we tethered off and also turned to Milwaukee locking tool lanyards to protect our tools. We also made great use of our Werner podium ladder.

Step 3: Begin Sizing and Cutting Lengths of Radiant Barrier

Measuring from the peak, we allowed for a gap at the top and bottom of our run. This allows all-important air to enter from the bottom and exit from the top. Our shop’s ridge vent takes care of the rest. Without this airflow, you’re just trapping hot air behind the foil and you won’t gain the true benefits of a properly installed radiant barrier.

To speed up our radiant barrier installation, we lined up our roll at the threshold of our shop and then made a mark on the floor where we wanted our cut. Using a few scrap pieces of wood, we were able to quickly roll and cut pieces to the desired length. Stacking these atop each other, we could quickly pull them and install them within each row of trusses.

We cut the AtticFoil using an Olfa X-Series utility knife. Any utility knife will do, but we like the ability to cut off the segmented blades as we go—always staying sharp.

Step 4: Start at the Peak and Work Down

The best way to work with a truss installation is to start at the peak and work down. Note that this is the opposite of the method you use when installing wider sheets horizontally in an attic. There, you want to start at the bottom and work up so the layers overlap properly and help airflow to rise to the top before escaping.

Taking the cut lengths of AtticFoil radiant barrier, we stapled the very top so that it left a gap about 8-10 inches from the bottom of our ridge vent opening. Then, it was just a matter of stapling down ensuring the material was taut across the trusses. We found that stapling down one side and then coming back to pull the width taut worked the best. Using this method we made quick progress.

We left the bottom half of each run hanging loose in order to get into a workflow. Once we completed the top half of the radiant barrier installation, we could remove our tether. We then switched to the podium ladder for the remainder of the work.

When you come to a vertical or angled truss brace, simply make a vertical cut in the material and then staple it to the face of the support piece. The idea is to make sure there are no open gaps, so just staple around everything as needed.

Step 5: Finish at the Bottom

Once we finished stapling the top, we got down and used our wheeled podium ladder to finish the radiant barrier installation. As you can imagine, this portion wrapped up fairly quickly. It was also nice to finish walking around those trusses at over 12-feet off the ground!

Admiring Our Handywork

At the end of the day, installation took us around 14 man-hours—mostly because we hadn’t done it before. Part of the time also included navigating the height and dealing with fall protection safety. A lower pitch, shorter roof, or a less complicated truss system would likely reduce your time.

When we completed our first side of the shop we immediately began taking measurements. It was the perfect “before and after” scenario—and the effect was immediate. Even though we have yet to hit full summer here in Florida, the temperature differential is more than 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Installing AtticFoil radiant barrier made an immediate difference in the ambient shop temperature. Adding our attic fan into the mix gave us the one-two punch we needed to get through the hot Central Florida summers.

Conclusion

Anyone can benefit from installing a radiant barrier in their attic or shop. While our radiant barrier installation was commercial, there’s no reason to suspect you wouldn’t experience the same benefits in your home. We’re looking forward to seeing what the difference amounts to during the peak summer months, but we’re already enjoying the benefits of having AtticFoil radiant barrier in the shop.

Visit AtticFoil.com to see what it would cost to install a radiant barrier in your home or workshop. They also have a great Youtube channel that shows how to install their products.

The post How to Install Radiant Barrier in a Shop Using AtticFoil appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

With the rare exceptions of Spanish tile or metal, asphalt shingles top off the majority of residential buildings. These shingles are held in place with short, wire-collated, flat-headed roofing nails driven by a roofing nailer. Nailers come in two varieties  – coil and stick – that can be used in different applications.

There’s no shortage of debate about what type works best so it seems that it really comes down to preference. However, coil roofing nailers are overwhelmingly used for roofing for several reasons. These include cheaper nails, full head nails, more nails choice (smooth, ardox, galvanized), longer working time before reloading, and the ability to carry the nails in the gun instead of in a pouch. So if you need to install shingles, there are some important things you must know since nailer use results in tens of thousands of injuries each year. Here’s how to use a roofing nailer like a pro.

How to Use a Roofing Nailer Safely

We say it all the time but it bears repeating: Wear eye protection. You’ll be shooting nails, after all. And obviously, there’s an inherent danger in using a roofing nailer in that you are on a roof. The first rule of roofs: don’t fall off. As you’ll read in number 7 below, it’s also quite important that you know the dangers associated with bump/contact mode.

You also want to pay attention to fall and ladder safety and adhere to OSHA guidelines. That especially holds true if you work on a larger jobsite and not for yourself.

Use the Right Air Compressor

Roofing nailers can fire up to ten nails per second in some cases. That takes a lot of air. You may not need the best air compressor, but those smaller pancake models won’t likely keep up. Make sure you have a compressor that at least matches the manufacturer’s air consumption specs.

If you plan on running two guns at once, then having a large enough compressor ensures you don’t misfire when two guns fire at the same time. When running a crew, this goes double.

Loading a Roofing Nailer

To load the canister on a roofing nailer, open the feeder door and the magazine door. They typically open in opposite directions, to expose the whole nail feed path. Remove any rubber bands or retainers that might surround the coil of nails.

Next, insert the coil into the canister with the nails pointed down. Unwrap just the very end of the coil so that the first nail gets positioned in the barrel.

If you switch from longer to shorter nails (like when nailing eaves that could show the nails), check the plastic “floor” underneath where the nails sit. This round platform should raise and lower (often by spinning it) to get the nails in the proper position for firing. Lastly, close both doors.

To ensure a perfect result, you can also adjust the firing power through a depth adjustment near the nose of the tool. When you make any of these adjustments, make doubly sure to disconnect the air supply to the tool. This translates into the battery when using gas or battery-powered roofing nailers. Finally, give it a test shot before you try to rapidly fire nails into your shingles.

Adjust the Exhaust Deflector

Roofing nailers expel a burst of air after driving each nail. Typically, this doesn’t present a problem, however, some roofing nailers do double-duty as siding nailers from the ground or a ladder. In that case, if your nailer has an adjustable deflector, you may want to direct it away from your face to avoid the blast.

Set the Firing Mode

Nailers usually have two firing modes: single action and a bump/contact mode. Single action drives one nail each time you pull the trigger. In bump/contact mode, you can use the roofing nailer to drive. nail each time the head comes in contact with the work surface.

This firing mode presents more danger because you could encounter unintentional firing. The rapid burst of air driving each nail also causes recoil. This recoil can shift the gun over just after firing a nail. That can cause you to fire a nail where you may not want it. These double shots occur with anyone from time to time but present n especially nagging problem for new users.

Bump/contact allows for quick work, and most professional roofers use it. You just need to understand the danger it presents until you fully understand the tool and grow some muscle memory.

Pro Tip: Before you bump fire any new nailer, test it on some scrap lumber to get an idea of how much recoil to expect before you climb on the roof!

Fire Away and Find Your Rhythm

Professional roofers install shingles at seemingly superhuman speed. IN the end, it’s really all about finding a rhythm. Building muscle memory as you repeat the same cycle over and over does wonders to increase speed naturally and safely. Don’t go faster than what you’re capable of, rather find a pace where you have both control and efficiency as you learn your craft.

Bonus: Using a Shingle Guide

The shingle guide is like a jig for the shingles to ensure the nails are all the same distance away from the edge of the previous shingle. Most Pros toss these, but it may be helpful for those just starting out.

Wrapping Up Our How to Use a Roofing Nailer Guide

If you’ll be using a roofing nailer a lot, you’ll find that drivers are among the most expensive replacement parts on a roofing nailer because they wear down nail heads don’t sit flat. The good news is that you can grind a driver two or three times before it becomes too short and needs replacement.

We hope you’ve picked up some tips on how to use a roofing nailer like a pro. If you’re a Pro and you have roofing tips, add them in the comments below — or share them with everyone on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

The post How to Use a Roofing Nailer Like a Pro appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

If you work with your hands, you know you need to take care of them.  Why not protect them and make your job easier? Ironclad Work Gloves come designed specifically for the tasks you do. We took a close look at four of their most popular models.

Ironclad HUG Heavy Utility Work Gloves

The first of these is the Ironclad HUG Heavy Utility Gloves. Ironclad designed these particular gloves for high durability and toughness. Several key features pop out Immediately. First, we noticed the one-piece synthetic leather palm and finger sidewalls. Ironclad also double stitched all the major stress and wear areas. Even more, we liked the rubberized impact protection zones over the knuckles. To keep the glove tight on your hand there is a hook & loop wrist closure strap on the backside.

One of the smaller touches that many might not have noticed was the terry cloth sweat wipe built into the thumb. While a small thing, for those who work in warmer climates (or just work hard), being able to wipe that sweat out of your eye with your gloves on is pretty handy. Even better—when the gloves get nasty, you can just throw them in the wash! With these gloves on our hands, we had great dexterity, yet still felt like they protected our hands. In our experience, these gloves seem best suited for material handling. They also work well for general construction and when using hand and power tools around a jobsite. The Ironclad HUG Heavy Utility Gloves have an MSRP of around $27.

Ironclad GUG General Utility Gloves

Next in our lineup were the Ironclad GUG General Utility gloves. The major selling point of these gloves is their overall utility. And by that, we mean that they work for almost any trade or general application you can think of.

These also feel like a more lightweight glove. Ironclad designed them to breathe and offer all-day comfort. The General Utility gloves also have thermoplastic knuckle protection and a reinforced thumb and saddle. A hook and loop closure on the backside ensures that, once you put them on, they stay put. These gloves are most suited for things like handling packages and boxes, working on vehicles, or even driving and sports. Is that football constantly slipping out of your grasp? We’d bet money these gloves land you the touchdown almost every time!

We also loved the terry cloth sweat wipe. Conveniently located on the back of the thumb, it lets you wipe your brow at will. The Ironclad General Utility has an MSRP of around $20.

Ironclad CCG Cold Condition

Ok. So for all of you that live in those cold, windy and wet places, they have a glove for you too. It is the Ironclad CCG Cold Condition Glove (and as a bonus, ours came with a matching knit cap, too). The idea behind these gloves is that they are designed to offer both wind and water resistance and keep you toasty down to temperatures of 32 degrees F. The palms of these are made of synthetic leather which is further reinforced in all major wear prone areas with Duraclad 600 which is Ironclads version of heavy duty, yet very flexible synthetic leather.

The whole outside shell is treated with DuPont Teflon, making them oil and water repellent. The inside is lined with a soft microfleece that helps keep you warm but does not bulk up the gloves so that they maintain good dexterity. The wrists of the gloves have a neoprene-like material that stretches and keeps a snug fit on your wrists. What we liked is that these gloves did not feel much bulkier than the regular gloves we looked at and they offered a lot more features. Workers in cold storage facilities will appreciate these gloves for sure, along with anyone who has to operate equipment or tools in cold places. These gloves are among our favorites, especially as we head into winter. The Ironclad CCG Cold Condition Gloves have an MSRP of around $34.

Tuff Chix Landscaper

The final pair of gloves that we looked at was the Tuff Chix Landscaper Gloves. Yeah, guys, these are for the ladies in your life. You know you need to keep her hands nice, and what better way to do it than with these gloves designed for a woman’s hands. These gloves have features like reinforced fingernail guards, seamless roll-top fingertips, padded knuckle protection, and a special pattern that better follows and fits a female’s hand.

My wife took a quick liking to these gloves and was among the first to “test” them out. She found that these gloves are well-suited for working in the yard, gardening, remodeling, and using tools. The Tuff Chix Landscaper Gloves have an MSRP of around $21.

Ironclad Ranchworx Work Gloves RWG2

Ironclad RWG2 Ranchworx work gloves have several key features we really like. The “rolltop” seamless fingertips give you a lot of dexterity without sacrificing protection. You also get Kevlar reinforcement around the critical wear areas‚ like your thumb.

We also found we could put these gloves on very quickly thanks to a rubberized cuff. You get the ever-increasingly popular terry cloth sweat wipe on the back of the thumb. Finally, this glove, while leather, can get tossed into the washing machine. The premium goatskin won’t dry out on you or shrink.

Conclusion

As with many things in life, you get what you pay for. In the case of Ironclad work gloves, you get great features that will enhance your performance and comfort, but they might cost a little more than the run-of-the-mill gloves you’ll find at your nearest big-box store. Still, their usefulness and performance make up the difference.

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Makita Releases Metal Shear Lineup for Tradesmen

Makita has added to the line of 18V cordless metal shears designed to tackle a variety of materials across a variety of trades. The lineup now also includes the 14 ga. Straight Metal Shear, an 18 ga. Off-set Metal Shear, and a 1/2″ Fiber Cement Shear. These new additions join the existing line to cover HVAC, MEP, siding, metal fabrication and manufacturing, roofing, and other trade applications.

Makita XSJ01 18-gauge Straight Metal Shears

The Makita 18 Gauge Straight Shear features a 4-pole motor and delivers 3,000 strokes per minute. The double-cut shear design tackles up to 18 gauge mild steel and 20 gauge stainless steel for straight and scribe cuts. It won’t deform your material, and it features a 360º swiveling head to give you options as you approach your cuts in metal.

With the Makita 5.0Ah battery attached, these Makita cordless metal shears still manage to stay compact. The XSJ01 weighs just 5.3 lbs. and measures 13-3/4″ to offer an ergonomic design that should stay manageable. In terms of weight, these come in similar to electric 5-amp shears we’ve seen from other manufacturers.

You can pick up the Makita XSJ01 as a bare tool or in a kit. The bare tool retails for $349. The kit, which comes with two 5.0Ah batteries and a charger, retails for $569.

XSJ02 16 Gauge Compact Straight Shears

Another of the collection of classic Makita cordless metal shears, the XSJ02 Compact Straight Shear, combines high cutting speed with a maneuverable size.

It features a 4-pole motor that produces up to 4,300 strokes per minute for fast cutting in up to 16 gauge mild steel, 18 gauge stainless steel , and 12 gauge aluminum. Its double blade design cuts cleanly with minimal burrs.

The XSJ02 has a 5.1-lb build that stays maneuverable with a minimum cutting radius of 9-7/8″. Its barrel grip design, soft grip, and lock-on slide switch make extended cutting a comfortable affair.

So far, the Makita XSJ02 Compact Cutting Shears look to come only as a bare tool. It retails for $319 and includes a 3-year warranty.

Makita XSJ03 14 Gauge Straight Metal Shear

The Makita XSJ03 straight shear features a brushless motor that provides up to 3,000 strokes per minute. It cuts up to 14 ga. mild steel and 16 ga. stainless.

Makita constructs the cutting head from milled steel to extend tool life while the double-cut blade keeps material distortion to a minimum. The cutting head rotates a full 360º for a variety of available cutting positions.

The Makita XSJ03 cordless metal shear features a trigger lock-on switch for continuous use, while a D-handle makes for an ergonomic grip that helps you maneuver cuts within a minimum 7″ cutting radius when needed.

We’re still waiting on a firm release date and pricing information regarding the Makita XSJ03 Cutting Shears. We do know that you’ll be able to pick it as either a bare tool or as a kit with two 5.0Ah batteries and a rapid charger.

XSJ04 18 Gauge Offset Shear

With its brushless motor, the Makita XSJ04 Offset Metal Cutting Shears can cut up to 18 ga. mild steel and 20 ga. stainless steel with a radius down to 3″. It also provides up to 3,000 SPM. A push-button on the side of the housing lets you set the cutting head to any position.

The cordless 18V Makita XSJ04 18V Offset Shear features a pistol grip and a trigger that can be locked to the on position. An aluminum housing keeps it durable and lightweight, while its LED light and belt clip give it a real “power drill” type of feel that lets you cut down to a 3″ inch radius.

We’ll update when Makita solidifies a release date and pricing for the XSJ04 Offset Cutting Shears. It will be available as a bare tool (XSJ04Z) or as a kit (XSJ04T) with two 5.0Ah batteries and a charger.

Makita XSJ05 1/2″ Fiber Cement Shear

Makita designed the cordless 18V XSJ05 to cut through cement board for exterior siding, backer board, or floor underlay. But, because the design works similarly to all of the other shears in the line, it works while producing minimal dust. I recently replaced wood window trim with fiber cement board using a saw. It’s hard to convey just how much better using a shear is.

It features a brushless motor that provides up to 3,000 SPM. It also features reversible cutting blades that extend your blade life. The XSJ05 shear head rotates 360º to offer multiple cutting positions across fiber cement board.

It also features lightweight and durable cast aluminum gear housing. A D-handle sits in-line with the motor to offer the best possible balance and maneuverability. Meanwhile, a variable-speed trigger gives you good control over your cutting speed.

The Makita XSJ05 fiber cement cutting shears should hit stores soon.

Makita 18V Cutting Shears Compared

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For Punch List Work and Small Jobs, the DeWalt 20V Max Roofing Nailer is a Huge Timesaver

The DeWalt 20V Max roofing nailer is the first cordless roofing nailer we’ve been able to get our hands on that uses just a battery for its power source. No gas cartridges, no fumes, no hoses, no compressor. Being the first carries some risk, and we wanted to know how well DeWalt did as the forerunner.

Pros

• Bump fires with little delay
• Loading nails is simple and familiar if you’re used to pneumatic guns
• 3 fastener length settings on the magazine
• Depth adjustment is easy to manipulate
• Effective blade release lever
• Plenty of power to fully drive roofing nails with consistent depth

Cons

• Magazine cover is a bit flimsy and can pop open
• Motor needs a moment to spool up before you can start nailing
• Heavier and bulkier than pneumatic (common to cordless nailers)

DeWalt 20V Max Cordless Roofing Nailer

The Project

I had a roofing project lined up and brought the DeWalt DCN45RN to see how well it could keep up against my pneumatic nailers. We were completely removing the old roofing materials and replacing it with all new waterproofing, flashing, and architectural shingles.

With a storm system heading in, time was of the essence. While our team worked on much of the roof with air guns, I used the DeWalt cordless roofing nailer around the double chimney, in the valley, where I started the tiered rows, and where I finished them off on the ends.

First Impressions

Right out of the gate, I was able to get started minutes ahead of the rest of the guys since I didn’t have a hose and compressor to set up. It also made climbing easier without the hose dragging behind.

The nailer is clearly heavier and bulkier than the pneumatic models. It’s not a surprise, though. Having to pack the entire power source onto and into the tool requires that kind of trade-off.

Still, I could jump around and hit those smaller tasks and leave the production shingling to the rest of the guys. It wasn’t just the short-term thrill of owning a new tool. The quick start and freedom to move are things I’ve enjoyed on other jobs that followed, too.

No Trouble Adjusting

Getting into the job, I needed to set the right nail depth. The adjustment knob is on the top where it’s easy to access. There are 5 positions to click into and it’s easy to grip when you’re wearing gloves.

There are three magazine positions as well. To adjust it, rotate the tray out, push it to the level you want, and rotate it back in. Put your coil of up to 120 nails in and you’re ready to go.

We were using 1 3/4-inch, 15º wire collated nails with 1 1/4-inch nails on a couple of other jobs. In both cases, making the nail size and depth adjustments were easy first steps.

Nailing Performance

Switching from a pneumatic roofing nailer, going cordless takes a little getting used to. You need to give the trigger a pull and let the motor spin up for a second or two before it’s ready to fire. Once it is, you can bump fire along at a consistent rate.

While we don’t see it as a problem, note that this nailer only has a bump fire mode.

You’re not going to see pneumatic speed here. You can fire roughly 3 nails per second. I found that to be plenty for the parts of the roof I was working on. Even in the production areas, it’s not too much of a slowdown.

With the two nail sizes we’ve been using in our DeWalt 20V Max cordless roofing nailer, we haven’t had any issues with the nailer driving to the depth we want and with consistent results.

Nail jams and misfires were few and far between. We’re not surprised or disappointed by the ones we had. We didn’t have any jams and the few misfires we had all seemed to be the result of the wire fouling rather than a failure to fire properly.

When you do get that jam or misfire, just flip the lever on top to pull the driver back.

Runtime

With a 2.0Ah battery, you can expect to get about 500 shots—roughly a square worth of roofing (~100 square feet).

DeWalt kits their cordless roofing nailer with a 2.0Ah battery for good reason: it’s not a light tool. At 7.6 pounds with the battery, popping a FlexVolt 12.0 onboard to extend your runtime might sound like a good idea, but it’s going to be crazy-heavy.

Additional Field Notes

The one issue we had during our testing is that the magazine popped open a few times. The magazine and its catch are plastic and a little flimsy. It’s just enough for the magazine tab to slip out and open up. It doesn’t happen all the time, only when you set it down just right.

The tool is understandably top heavy. Like the trade-off you make in weight by going cordless, the balance shifts as well.

Price

You can get the DeWalt 20V Max cordless roofing nailer with a 2.0Ah battery and charger for $399 or $319 as a bare tool. It’s the only one of its kind currently, so it’s tough to argue with the price. Even so, it’s in line with what we expected.

The Bottom Line

The DeWalt 20V Max cordless roofing nailer is an excellent punch list, repair, and small job solution that saves you the time, effort, and hassle of running a compressor and hose. It’s not going to replace your pneumatic nailers for the bigger jobs and that’s not what DeWalt designed it to do.

W like this one for roofing contractors and remodel/renovation contractors to quickly tackle small roofing jobs and move along with their day.

DeWalt 20V Max Roofing Nailer Specifications

• Model: DeWalt DCN45RND1
• Canister Capacity: 120 nails
• Fastener Range: 3/4 in. – 1-3/4 in.
• Height: 11.5 in.
• Length: 11.5 in.
• Weight: 6.7 lbs. (7.6 pounds with battery)
• Warranty: 3 years
• Price: $399

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Protect Your Roofing from Weather Extremes

The Polyglass Polystick XFR is a dual-purpose fire-resistant and self-adhered waterproofing underlayment featuring the proprietary Burn-Shield technology. This underlayment works with metal roofing, asphalt shingles, mechanically attached tiles, or any other application where you’d like to provide some water-proofed protection against extreme heat.

How Many Ways Does the Polyglass Polystick XFR Protect?

Polyglass tells us that, while other fire-related underlayment products will struggle to find a balance between fire protection and reliable waterproofing, the Polystick XFR combines their ADESO and Burn-Shield technologies with high-quality materials to excel in both areas.

This underlayment helps combustible decking achieve a UL Class A rating as well as long-term weathering performance. It can withstand temperatures up to 265°.

The Polyglass Polystick XFR’s ADESO Dual-Compound Self-Adhered technology features an SBS (elastomeric) modified bitumen upper compound and a self-adhesive compound on the bottom. Fiberglass reinforces the underlayment to provide strength and stability. Polystick XFR applies quickly to save on labor costs.

You can also use the Polystick XFR as a secondary layer above Polystick MTS Plus as part of a multi-ply underlayment system. Able to withstand exposure for up to 180 days, you can use it with works-in-progress.

The Polyglass Polystick XFR comes with a standard 10-year limited material warranty or a 10-year Polystick labor and material warranty when installed by a Polyglass registered contractor. Polyglass also offers a 30-year 2-Ply Polystick labor and material warranty. This can apply when two plies of the Polystick XFR treatment are used and installed by a certified contractor.

For more information about Polyglass underlayments or any other products in Polyglass line, visit polyglass.us.

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The light and compact Everwin Joist Hanger Nailer fits in tighter spaces than its competitors and improves upon manual metal framing hardware installation by a long shot. We’re using it to construct a porch over a home’s front door by tying into the existing roof – let’s show you how it works.

Pros

• Notably light at 4.4 pounds
• Compact design fits between 12-inch on-center joists
• Anti-nail back up pawl and sequential trigger lock for safety
• Comfortable grip and easy maneuverability

Cons

• No significant downsides

Performance

Ties That Bind

You already know it’s not easy for a nailer to differentiate itself. Is it relatively light and jam-free? Is the firing pin durable? Then we can work with it.

Fortunately, the Everwin Joist Hanger Nailer gives us noteworthy features to talk about just like the company’s recent coil framer did. First, the tool’s purpose requires a somewhat unusual nailer design. Second, Everwin has again made a remarkably compact and light nailer without compromising power.

A joist hanger nailer is particularly useful to us since we do our work in Hurricane Alley. It’s handy for all sorts of metal framing hardware—joist hangers, metal strapping, rafter tie connectors, foundation caps. This nailer works well for all these applications.

The tip of the nail protrudes enough to make it easy to position it in the hole. Additionally, the patented safety nose only allows the nailer to fire when the nail tip is depressed. Contrast this to the Paslode positive placement nailer or the DeWalt cordless strap nailer—both of which use a dedicated mechanism to find the hole.

Using the Everwin Positive Placement Nailer

This Everwin positive placement nailer got a workout strapping 2×4 supports to 2×6 framing for a small porch overhang. We enhanced an entranceway to provide some cover for a front door. Aside from strapping the lumber together, we also strapped the new roof joists directly to the home’s existing supporting structure per code. The Everwin joist hanger nailer made the process go very quickly.

We particularly liked the Everwin joist hanger nailer’s Anti Nail Back Up Pawl which dampens the tool’s recoil. The nose of regular nailers rests on the material. However, since a joist hanger nailer rests on the nail’s tip, the nose travels toward the material during firing and wants to bounce back up after the drive. The pawl curtails that bounce a bit.

At just 4.4 pounds and 10.8 inches tall, this nailer can easily out-maneuver its peers. And since nailing metal framing hardware requires firing from tight spaces and awkward angles, this nailer feels really nimble. Other features we appreciate include a low nail lockout, sequential trigger lock, and rotating exhaust. It also has a nice, comfortable grip.

Price

Here’s a look at where the Everwin’s price falls among its competitors.

• Bostitch MCN-150: $188.50
• Metabo HPT NR38AK: $201.80
• Everwin Joist Hanger Nailer MCN40: $249
• Senco 6K0001N: $262

The Bottom Line

We know a lot of framers will simply use the “squint” method and fire nails into straps using a framer. The Everwin joist hanger nailer provides a better and safer way to get the job done.

Notably, the Everwin nailer’s lightweight and compact form make it an excellent tool for metal framing hardware installation. We didn’t experience any jams and appreciate the safety nose, kickback pawl, low nail lockout, and other premium features. You’ll notice its nimble performance from the first nail—and your work will benefit!

Everwin Joist Hanger Nailer Specifications

• Model Number: MCN40
• Dimensions (HxWxL): 10.8 x 3.6 x 11.7 in. (275 x 92 x 298 mm)
• Weight: 4.4 lbs. (2.0 kg)
• Recommended Operating Pressure: 70 to 120 PSI (5 to 8 bar)
• Air Consumption: 3.8 cfm (1.8 liter/sec) at 90 PSI (6 bar) press.
• Price: $249 (Exclusively through Nail Gun Depot)

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