Tackle Tough Sealing Jobs With Ox’s Dual Thrust Caulking Gun

Ox’s Rodless Caulk Gun raised our eyebrows with its unconventional design. Now, the brand turns to a more traditional caulk gun blueprint while still giving you the flexibility you need. Find out how the OX Tools Dual Thrust Caulking Gun can help both DIYers and Pros with all of their sealing and caulking tasks.

OX Tools Dual Thrust Caulking Gun Performance

For this caulking gun, Ox implements a dual-thrust formula. You can set the thrust ratio to either 12:1 or 24:1 with the flip of a switch.

If you’re working with thicker caulks and sealants such as construction-grade adhesive or epoxy sealant, you’ll want to use the 24:1 ratio setting. However, if you’re using something thinner like water-based caulk, then the 12:1 setting will work well for you. Just remember, the thicker the material, the higher the ratio should be.

Also, working with corners or at awkward angles doesn’t have to be as much of a hassle with the 360° rotating barrel. All it takes is a twist to achieve the perfect tip angle for the application.

Editor’s Note: I’ve used plenty of caulk guns and they get the job done for the most part, even with thick products. What sets OX’s design apart is that you can apply those thick caulks/sealants with much less hand fatigue or cramping, then flip the switch to use thinner products without forcing them out at a ridiculous pace and making a huge mess.

Kenny Koehler, Pro Tool Reviews Managing Editor

OX Tools Dual Thrust Caulking Gun Design Notes

Ox Tools tells us that they used high-quality materials like steel in the construction of this tool. Common impact points like the handle also have a shock-absorbing rubber overlay to increase user comfort and absorb harsh impacts.

Additionally, like many other caulk guns, there is a tab on the back of the gun that allows you to control the inner rod. To push in or retract the rod, hold the tab to unlock it and then push or pull the metal hook to control the rod’s position.

Additional Features

• Integrated metal tube puncture rod
• 10 oz tube capacity

OX Tools Dual Thrust Caulking Gun Price

This caulking gun retails for $39.99 and you can find it on Amazon and other Ox Tools retailers.

The Bottom Line

In the saturated caulking gun market, it’s important to have a tool that stands out from the rest. Ox Tools did just that by including the dual-thrust mechanism in this gun’s design. Whether you’re a seasoned Pro or a DIY beginner, this tool makes it easy to tackle all of your sealing and caulking needs.

Specifications

• Model: Ox Tools ‎OX-P045430
• Length: 13.94 in
• Width: 8.07 in
• Height: 3.78 in
• Weight: 1.65 lbs
• Material: Steel
• Capacity: 10 oz

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Ryobi’s SwiftClean Spot Cleaner Makes Stain Removal Easier

The old saying, “Don’t cry over spilled milk,” takes on a new meaning, especially when it’s so easy to clean up. With the Ryobi SwiftClean Spot Cleaner (PCL756B), cleaning up spills, stains, and everyday messes becomes a breeze. Find out how its cordless convenience can help keep your space tidy both at home and on the go.

Ryobi SwiftClean Spot Cleaner: The Big Deal

Using a towel to dab away at spills and hope they don’t stain is now a thing of the past. The SwiftClean spot cleaner delivers rapid stain removal with enough suction to lift spills out of a variety of fabrics.

The SwiftClean delivers up to 17 CFM of airflow and 17 IOW (inches of water) of sealed suction. It also features an internally powered scrub brush that agitates and lifts debris from materials like car seats, upholstery, and carpets. You can expect up to 75 minutes of runtime on a full charge, which should be more than enough time for cleaning up everyday messes.

Ryobi also designed the tank to remove easily for quick and simple cleanup. To make things even easier, all of the clear components of the SwiftClean spot cleaner are top-rack dishwasher safe.

Additional Features

• Lightweight design
• Compatible with all Ryobi 18V batteries
• Includes 6oz Ryobi OXY Cleaning Solution

Price and Availability

Upon its September 2022 release, the Ryobi SwiftClean Spot Cleaner bare tool will retail for $119. There will also be a kit option, which includes a 2.0Ah battery and charger, for $159. Like all Ryobi products, this tool will be exclusive to The Home Depot. Ryobi backs your purchase with a 3-year warranty.

Specifications

• Model: Ryobi PCL756B
• Airflow: Up to 17 CFM
• Dirty tank capacity: 1 Cup
• Solution tank capacity: 0.6 Cups

The post Ryobi 18V SwiftClean Spot Cleaner appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Ryobi Makes Caulking Tasks Easier for Both Pros and DIYers

Caulking is one of those things that takes some practice to become proficient. When using tougher sealants like OSI Quad Max, a manual caulk gun just doesn’t cut it. What if there was a way to make that kind of job easier? Whether you’re completing extensive home repairs or renovations like replacing window trim, or you’re already a Pro, the Ryobi 18V Caulk and Adhesive Gun (PCL901B) aims to give you the control and power you need to get the job done. We’ll take a deeper dive to show you how your projects could benefit from this cordless tool.

Ryobi 18V Caulk Gun: The Big Deal

The PCL901B is Ryobi’s second-generation cordless 18V caulk gun. Like the first model (P310G), this one reaches up to 500 pounds of push force to discharge higher viscosity sealants. Ryobi tells us you can expect to get through over 200 tubes of caulk on a full 2.0Ah battery. That should hold true if you happen to be using an easy-flow material like Alex caulk or Dynaflex 230.

This caulk gun also features a variable speed dial to adjust the discharge rate to control the bead of caulk. On the older P310G model, the variable speed dial is on the side of the tool and features only a numberless meter-style control. The newer PCL901B caulk gun has a numbered variable speed dial that faces you while you use it, giving you more control over the rate of adhesive being dispensed.

Specific to the newer model is the rotating collar. When using a beveled opening at the nozzle, this lets you adjust the angle of the tip to more easily navigate corners.

Another new feature specific to this model is the ability to remove the carriage that houses the adhesive tube. This makes cleanup much more effortless. This tool also features anti-drip technology to further reduce mess and downtime between uses.

Additional Features

• Rubber overmolded grip
• Onboard puncture tool
• Switch lock to prevent accidental startup during transport or storage

Ryobi 18V Caulk Gun Price

The Ryobi 18V Caulk and Adhesive Gun will retail for $79 for the bare tool. It will also be available in kit form, including a 1.5Ah battery and charger. You can find this tool exclusively at The Home Depot starting in October 2022. As always, Ryobi backs your purchase with a 3-year warranty.

Specifications

• Model: Ryobi PCL901B
• Depth: 16.8 in
• Width: 4.2 in
• Height: 8.6 in
• Weight: 4.7 lb
• Maximum tube capacity: 10 oz
• Voltage: 18V
• Motor type: Brushed

The post Ryobi 18V Cordless Caulk and Adhesive Gun appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Build A Sturdy Outdoor Bench Without A Ton Of Hassle

If you’re looking to build your own DIY bench seat, 2x4s offer a relatively simple option that can sit on your porch or survive the elements outdoors. Plus, you can paint it whatever color you like.

DIY 2×4 Bench Seat Materials

• Sixteen 8-foot 2×4 studs
• One 8-foot 4×4
• Fifty 2 1/2-inch deck screws
• Eight 5/16 x 4-inch RSS screws (rugged structural screws)
• Eight 5/16 x 6-inch RSS screws

If you want some extra outdoor protection, you can go with pressure-treated wood instead of untreated. Take the time to go through the lumber and pick the straightest boards you can find. You’ll be cutting them down, but the straighter they are the better your bench will look when you’re done.

DIY 2×4 Bench Seat Tools

• Miter saw
• Drill and drill bit set
• Impact driver with bits that match your screws
• Sander with 120-grit sandpaper
• Router with roundover (optional)
• Tape measure

If you don’t have a miter saw, you can use a circular saw instead. A rafter square can help you make perfect cross cuts and you’ll need to be able to accurately mark and cut a 15° miter. Also note that when you’re cutting the 4×4, you’ll need to cut one side, flip the board, and then cut the other to get all the way through.

DIY 2×4 Bench Seat Prep

Step 1: Make Your Cuts

Start by making all your cuts first so your saw work is complete and you only have to deal with assembly when you’re done. Note that the four boards you’re cutting a 15° miter on will be 16 and 19 inches on the long sides.

• Two 2x4x16 inches, one side cut at 15° (backrest supports)
• Two 2x4x19 inches, one side cut at 15° (backrest frame)
• Two 2x4x56 inches (backrest frame beams)
• Six 2x4x59 inches (four seat planks and two seat frame beams)
• Eight 2x4x66 inches (five seat planks and three backrest planks)
• Two 2x4x27 1/2 inches (armrests)
• Two 2x4x19 inches (corner post supports)
• Three 2x4x23 inches (seat frame supports)
• Four 4x4x23 1/2 (corner posts)

Step 2: Sand Your DIY 2×4 Bench Seat Boards

Some people say to sand at the end, but I prefer to sand before assembly so I can get every surface. We went with 120-grit, but 80-grit is fine for this project, especially if you’re going to put a coat of good, thick exterior paint on it.

Step 3: Apply a Roundover or Chamfer Edge to Select Boards (Optional)

In this optional step, you can take your DIY 2×4 bench seat build up a notch by hitting specific edges with a roundover. The primary goal is to make the edges where people’s arms and legs rest more comfortable. However, you can hit more to create a more well-designed look. Here are the boards we recommend routing:

• Armrests: Top and bottom edges all the way around
• Seat planks: Outward-facing edges all the way around
• Seat frame: Bottom edge of the front frame board only
• Corner supports: Top and bottom outward-facing edges
• Corner post: All four long edges
• Backrest planks: Outward-facing edges all the way around

If you prefer, you can also determine which boards you want to roundover as you go.

DIY 2×4 Bench Seat Assembly

Step 1: Assemble the Frame for the Bench Seat and Attach the Armrests

Materials

• Four corners posts (23 1/2 inches)
• Two armrests (27 1/2 inches)
• Two corner post supports (19 inches)
• Three seat frame supports (23 inches)
• Two seat frame beams (59 inches)

Attach the seat frame 2x4s to the corner posts flush to the outside edges by driving one 6-inch RSS screw through the 4×4 and into the 2×4. Be sure to drill a pilot hole through the 4×4 and the 2×4 to help it go in straight and avoid splitting your wood.

Pro Tip: Install your drill bit so that it can go all the way through the 4×4 and touch the edge of the 2×4 to mark its position where the screw will come through. Then use that mark to drive your pilot hole deeper into the 2×4 to help avoid the screw coming through the side of your board.

Attach the middle seat frame support 2x4s by driving two deck screws from outside the seat frame into the supports. Center one support and install the other two 14 1/2 inches from the outside corner supports.

On top of the corner posts, attach the armrests using two deck screws on each corner post (we prefer them side-by-side in the middle). Make sure the rear of each armrest is flush with the back of the rear corner posts. The armrest should stick out over the front corner posts.

Step 2: Add Bench Seat Planks

Materials

• Two 59-inch seat planks
• Four 66-inch seat planks

Start by attaching the 59-inch front and back seat planks with one deck screw on each support and then work inward towards the center with the 66-inch boards. You should have ~1/4-inch gap between each board.

Feel free to lay out all six boards first so you have your spacing right, just take out one at a time as you go so you can see the support beams clearly as you fasten each board. The last one will hide them, but you can gauge where it is by checking the gap between the boards or using the line of screws you already installed as a guide.

Drill pilot holes for the two end screws on each board to prevent splitting.

Step 3: Assemble the Frame for the Back

Materials

• Two backrest supports (16 inches, bottom cut at 15° leaning back)
• Two backrest frame boards (19 inches, bottom cut at 15° leaning back)
• Two backrest frame beams (56 inches)

The seat back is one of the easiest pieces to assemble and is also the most likely to expose any flaws in your cutting. The four vertical boards should all have their bases cut at 15°. As you attach them with deck screws, be sure they are all leaning back in the same direction.

Drive eight deck screws to connect the two outside frame boards to the backrest frame beams (two at each connection point). Then align the backrest supports 17 1/2 inches from the outside frame boards and attach them by driving two screws through the backrest beams and into the supports.

Step 4: Add Backrest Planks

Materials

• Two 59-inch backrest planks
• Three 66-inch backrest planks

Starting with the bottom and working up, attach the backrest planks to the frame you just built. Like the seat, feel free to lay out all of the boards first to get the correct spacing (~1/4-inch again). Like the seat, use one deck screw at each support connection to attach the planks.

Be sure to drill pilot holes for the two end screws on each board to prevent splitting.

Step 5: Connect the Backrest to the Seat

You’re almost done! The last step of the assembly is attaching the backrest to the seat. This requires the strongest connection of all. Using the 4-inch RSS screws, connect the two pieces by screwing the bottom 2×4 of the backrest frame to the bench seat so that the connecting 2x4s are flush with one another.

Add another RSS screw going in from the side of the backrest frame into the back corner posts for additional strength.

Step 6: Paint or Stain Your DIY 2×4 Bench Seat

If you prefer, fill any holes and spot-check for any surfaces that need some touch-up sanding, especially around screw holes. Then apply the paint or stain you want to get the look you’re going for. Remember to use primer!

If you decided to go with pressure-treated lumber, we recommend a painted finish over stain, especially lighter-colored ones that the green tinge of the pressure treatment can affect.

This build was for my mom, so I finished it off by recovering a couple of pieces of a 30-year-old swing my dad had bought her and incorporated them into the back before I painted it.

The post Simple DIY 2×4 Bench Seat For Outdoor Use appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Ryobi Rounds Out Crafting And DIY Tool Lineup With 4V USB Lithium Rotary Tool

Ryobi continues its run in the rotary tool game with the release of the 4V USB Lithium rotary tool (FVM51K). What should you expect from this multipurpose crafting tool? We got our hands on one to find out exactly what it has to offer.

Ryobi 4V USB Lithium Rotary Tool Performance

The tool features five different speed settings ranging from 5,000 RPM on the lowest setting to 25,000 RPM on the highest setting. You control the speed using a variable speed dial located underneath the power switch. We especially like the fact that you can change speeds easily even while the tool is on.

A 2.0Ah Ryobi USB Lithium battery powers this tool, which contributes to the tool’s compact size. the nice thing is you don’t need a separate charger. A USB-C cord plugs directly into the battery.

Ryobi 4V USB Lithium Rotary Tool Design Notes

Size and Weight

As the most compact of Ryobi’s rotary tools, the FVM51K weighs just over half a pound including the battery. The total length is just 8.3 inches without an accessory. Compared to using the more powerful 12V rotary tool, this one makes it far easier to control when you’re completing detail-oriented tasks like polishing or engraving.

Accessory Changes

Ryobi claims its Quick-Change collet leads to 4-times faster accessory changes. While we didn’t race rotary tools to find out, the accessories are very easy to install and remove using this feature. You simply hold down the collet lock button, loosen the collet with your fingers, insert the accessory, and re-tighten the collet. On the off chance it gets over-tightened, a wrench comes in the kit to give you an assist.

Accessories

This tool includes 15 accessories to help you with your carving, sanding, and polishing needs. These accessories include:

• 1/16 in. engraving bit
• 1/8 in. screw mandrel
• (2) 1/2 in. felt polishing wheels
• (2) 1 in. felt polishing wheels
• Carbon steel brush
• 1/4 in. drum sanding mandrel
• (2) 1/4 in. 60 grit sanding bands
• (2) 1/4 in. 120 grit sanding bands
• 3/8 in. arch aluminum oxide grinding stone
• 3/8 in cylinder aluminum oxide sanding stone
• Wrench
• Polishing compound vial

There’s also a plastic carrying case for storing all of your accessories.

Additional Features

• 1/8-inch collet size
• LED battery indicator
• Overload protection
• High-temperature protection

Ryobi 4V USB Lithium Rotary Tool Price

The Ryobi FVM51K retails for $59.97 and has a 2-year warranty. It includes a 2.0Ah USB Lithium battery plus accessories. Like all Ryobi products, this tool is exclusive to The Home Depot.

The Bottom Line

Lightweight and compact, the Ryobi 4V USB Lithium rotary tool is the way to go if you want a smaller unit for more lighter work and don’t want to tether to an 18V power source the way Ryobi’s precision rotary tool does.

Discover more Ryobi products here!

Specifications

• Model: Ryobi FVM51K
• Weight: 0.6 lbs
• Battery amp hours: 2Ah
• Chuck capacity: 1/8 in
• Max speed: 25,000 RPM
• Motor type: Brushed

The post Ryobi 4V USB Lithium Rotary Tool FVM51K appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Why Buy a Spark Plug Thread Chaser When You Can Make Your Own?

I pulled out my generator to make sure everything is ready for hurricane season when I discovered some damage to the spark plug threads. Even though they looked pretty good, the top few had some cross-threading damage and I couldn’t get the plug started to push through it. Since the damage wasn’t severe enough to need a full rethreading or Helicoil treatment, making my own spark plug thread chaser saved me a trip to the store and some money.

Tools Needed

Here’s what you’ll need before you get started:

• Old spark plug of the same size with good threads
• Dremel or other rotary tool (a file can work in a pinch)
• Socket to fit your spark plug
• Needle-nose pliers
• Thick grease
• Shop towels
• Safety glasses
• Gloves

How to Make a DIY Spark Plug Thread Chaser

Step 1: Break Out the Rotary Tool and Cut Some Grooves

Take your rotary tool and install a small cutting disk onto it. We like the Ryobi cordless precision rotary tool ($40). Another option is the Hart 20V rotary tool ($69).

Using it to cut a groove in your spark plug’s threads from the bottom as far up as you can without cutting into the hex head. Just make sure the spark plug has good threads.

Repeat every 90º around the threads. This creates a spark plug tap with 4 cutting edges around it. You may want to use a pair of gloves—that spark plug is going to get pretty toasty once you start cutting on it.

Step 2: Prep the Spark Plug Hole with Some Grease

Prepping the spark plug hole properly is critical to fixing it without introducing metal shavings to your engine. Start by adding some grease to the threads on both the spark plug hole and your homemade spark plug tap.

The goal of the grease is to get the shavings to stick so they don’t fall in and damage the engine while it’s running. For some extra protection, you can push a shop towel down far enough to let you work, but without letting it fall into the space below. Fishing it out won’t be too much fun if you do.

Step 3: Center the Spark Plug and Screw It in to Repair the Thread Damage

Here’s where it all comes together. Using your socket and ratchet, carefully center your DIY spark plug thread chaser so it can enter squarely and reopen the damaged threads. If you come in at an angle, you’ll cut new threads across the old ones and it’s game over.

Once you feel the spark plug tap engage the good threads, go ahead and give it a few turns to let it cut open and clean out the old ones. Just remember to avoid pushing your towel all the way in if you’re using one.

Step 4: Remove Your Spark Plug Tap

Now it’s time to remove your homemade spark plug tap. Once you do, wipe off any excess grease to carry your metal shavings away. If you used a shop towel, a needle-nose plier can help you get it out.

Step 5: Crank it Up

You’re ready. Pop a good spark plug in and crank up your engine to make sure it works.

That’s All, Folks!

On my generator spark plug repair, the engine cranked up right away. Keep in mind that this lifehack won’t fix every job that needs a spark plug repair. You’re still better off taking it to a mechanic for severe damage. If you want to give this a shot on your own first, try it and let us know if it worked for you!

The post DIY Spark Plug Thread Chaser Lifehack appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Knowing how to replace a toilet can save you a lot of money. While it can seem like a daunting task, it’s really not all that difficult if you follow a few basic steps and understand the big picture. At some point, nearly every homeowner is faced with some kind of toilet task. That might involve fixing a leak or replacing an entire fixture with a new model.

You might replace a toilet for any reason—from purely cosmetic to replacing a toilet that has cracked or is beyond repair. In either case, the process takes less than an hour if you have everything you need. Double that if you need to run to the store in the middle somewhere because you forgot something.

Sometimes even the Milwaukee Trapsnake can’t save you. At some point, nearly every homeowner is faced with some kind of toilet task. That may involve fixing a leak or replacing an entire fixture with a new model. This can be for any reason. For some, replacements are purely cosmetic while others replace a toilet that has cracked or is beyond repair.

In either case, the process takes less than an hour if you have everything you need. Double that if you need to run to the store in the middle somewhere because you forgot something.

The steps involved in replacing a toilet (which, incidentally match just replacing a leaky wax ring) follow:

Steps in Replacing a Toilet

Expanded Instructions on Replacing a Toilet

The key is to not get hung up on the sheer bulkiness and cumbersome nature of the toilet. 95 percent of the time you are literally following these few steps with no hang-ups. On the occasion that something else is required (like installing an offset toilet flange, for example) then your experience will be a bit more involved.

Let’s start at the beginning with Step 1.

Disconnect Plumbing and Drain the Water

It sounds obvious, but the first step is to turn off the water going to the toilet and drain the water from within the toilet. To accomplish this section, simply follow these steps:

• Turn off the valve which supplies water to the toilet. This should be located below the tank on the left side if you are facing the toilet wall. If, for some reason, you do not have a shut-off valve for the toilet then you’ll need to turn off the water at the main shut-off valve or wherever the nearest cold water shut-off valve is that stops the flow of water to your toilet.
• Flush the toilet. This gets rid of the majority of the water still in the tank. You may want to hold the lever so that all of the possible water exits the tank.
• Use a sponge to soak up any remaining water in the tank and bowl. You can wring out the sponge into a nearby sink or use a plastic bucket.

NOTE: The bowl contains a “trap” meaning that some water may still be in the toilet, even after you have emptied the bowl and tank.

Remove the Toilet

This step involves actually disconnecting and lifting the toilet from its place and removing it completely from the bathroom. To do it right, here are the steps:

• Disconnect the water supply line going to the toilet bowl. Unscrew it from the bowl itself, not the wall. You can typically re-use these lines, however if you do not have a modern braided line or solid pipe, then we recommend replacement at this time. This is not a place you want to come back to later in a leak-repair situation.
• Use an adjustable wrench to remove the nuts from two bolts holding the toilet to the floor. You may have to first remove plastic caps which often cover these bolts.  NOTE: If  the nuts cannot be removed, either because they are rusted or the bolts are rotating,  use a hacksaw to cut off the bolts just below the nuts.
• Remove the toilet and place it outside or on something that can absorb any water that may escape the trap during the move. Typically you’ll want to lay the toilet on its side. Finding a second person to help you carry it is a key part of successfully completing this step without breaking something or violating the third commandment.

Preparation for Replacing a Toilet

In this step, we’ll prepare both the toilet and the closet flange for the replacement toilet. This involves cleaning and prepping the area so that you can replace the new toilet onto the flange with little difficulty. Be sure to follow all of these procedures:

• Remove the old wax ring from the closet flange (the plastic piece that marks and surrounds the location of the toilet drain). This is “messy” work (OK, that’s an understatement) and it may help to have a large screwdriver and wooden paint stick or furring strip to help scrape off the wax.
• Check the condition of the plastic closet flange. If it’s damaged you’ll need to replace it or repair it with kits that are available at your local home improvement store. It is possible that you’ll want to bring in a plumber if the flooring is damaged beyond simple repair or the closet flange isn’t fixable with a standard repair kit.
• At this time some recommend test-fitting the new toilet to the closet flange – without the wax ring. We’ve found this to be helpful for uneven surfaces, though in most cases it’s fine to shim the toilet afterwards.

Fitting the Wax Ring and Place the Toilet

This part is actually very simple, however, we depart slightly from the instructions normally given on the wax ring boxes. The wax ring is what really makes the toilet drain system fool-proof. It guides the sewage into the 3- or 4-inch drain pipe, keeping any waste from escaping the path or leaking onto the floor.

No matter what the condition of your toilet, we’ve found that an oversized ring with a plastic funnel is typically the go-to solution:

• First of all, be sure to use the extra-large wax rings that include a plastic funnel. These are typically adequate for both 3-inch and 4-inch drains. They are simply the best solutions for 99.9% of all toilet requirements we’ve run into.
• Center and place the wax ring over the closet flange. While most instructions tell you to place it onto the toilet directly, we feel there is no need to inconvenience yourself in this way. You can’t set the toilet down afterward unless it’s on its side, for example. It frankly makes it harder to place the toilet perfectly onto the flange.
• Be sure the square head attachment bolts that came with your wax ring are positioned correctly into the closet flange. You’ll be placing the toilet by centering the holes over the protruding bolts.

This Part May Require an Extra Hand

• With a partner (or yourself if you can safely lift and balance the toilet as needed), position the toilet so that the bolts come through the holes in the toilet base. Center the toilet perfectly atop the drain and flange.
• Press down on the toilet with a gentle rocking motion until it seats firmly into place. When pushing down you want to be centered over the closet flange/drain. Use shims if needed to eradicate any rocking of the toilet or to compensate for an uneven surface.
• Tighten the bolts down, alternating sides until the toilet is snug. You do not want to overtighten the bolts as the ceramic toilet base will crack. If the bolts stick up beyond the plastic caps that come with most toilets, use a hacksaw to cut down the bolts so that the caps fit overtop.
• Add silicone caulk around the edge of the toilet to seal it up.

Reconnect the Plumbing

Do just what the heading suggests. Now you can reconnect the supply line, turn the water back on and allow the toilet to fill. Don’t be stingy when it comes to replacing the toilet water supply line. It’s always a good idea to replace that part, even if there are no signs of wear on your existing line. You can select either solid pipes (for a high-end finished look) or metal braided lines that resist bursting.

Finally, when finished, check for any leaks, especially during flushing. That’s all there is to it. Now you can enjoy your new toilet.

The post How to Replace a Toilet – Yes, You Can DIY appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

I wanted to add some curb appeal to my front entrance. The concept of a DIY wood address planter came to mind as it takes only a few materials and a short time to build. With this quick and easy How-To build project, you can take an afternoon to complete the entire project.

Tools Needed to Make a DIY Wood Address Planter

You don’t need a ton of tools to complete this DIY wood address planter. The big picture has you fastening cedar boards together and adding the box and house numbers. After that—you just sand and paint! Not to worry—we include specific steps and details below.

• Miter saw (great excuse to buy one if you don’t already have this tool)
• Finish nailer
• Kreg jig or pocket hole system (preferred, but not required)
• Clamp
• Cordless drill
• Sander (corded or cordless)
• Measuring tape
• Pencil

Materials Needed for this Address Planter Project

The materials needed to make this DIY address planter include cedar boards, fasteners, hanger D-rings, glue, and materials for sanding and painting. The list stays wonderfully short, making this one of the easier projects you might take on this year.

• 1x6x6 cedar board
• 1x4x6 cedar board
• 1x2x6 cedar board
• 1-1/4″ exterior pocket hole screws
• 1-1/4″ brad nails
• 2 x heavy-duty D-rings
• Sandpaper (120 and 220 grit)
• Wood glue (I like Titebond III)
• Address numbers (I used Hillman 6″ floating numbers)

To save you some time, use this photo as a quick guide to the board sizes you need for this DIY project:

Steps for Building the Wood Address Planter

After you gather your materials, cut your cedar boards to size (see above). Cedar is naturally rot-resistant and holds up well to the elements. It should last for many years.

Cutting Your Cedar Boards

Using your miter saw, cut three 20-inch pieces from your 1×6 cedar board.

From your 1×4 board, cut one 20″ piece, one 18.5″ piece, and two 3.5″ pieces.

Glue-up and Pocket Hole Joinery

Flip your three 20″ 1×6 boards over to the back and attach them together using wood glue and your pocket hole system. For drilling, we grabbed a cordless drill from our Hart 20V brushless tool kit. It does a great job on projects like this.

Once the cedar boards are attached together, you should have a rectangle measuring 20″ by 16.5″.

Measure and Cut the Frame for the Planter Box

Turn your best miter saw to a 45-degree angle and measure out and cut a frame to fit using the 1×2 board. Attach the frame using wood glue and brad nails.

Assemble the Planter Box

Next, assemble the planter box. Using the pocket hole system, attach the 18.5″ 1×4 piece using wood glue and pocket screws. This will be the bottom of your planter box.

Editor’s note: See our article on how to use a Kreg jig to make pocket holes.

Next, attach the two 3.5″ pieces to the sides of the 18.5″ piece. Finally, attach the 20″ piece of 1×4 to the top, finishing your planter box.

Sand Using 120 and 220 Grit Sandpaper

Sand your address planter using 120 then 220 grit sandpaper until smooth and even. While you can do this by hand, we loved using our Hart 20V cordless random orbit sander.

Adding the Finishing Touches

Once everything is sanded to your liking, add your heavy duty D-rings to the back of the planter for easy hanging.

Stain your planter if desired. I like to finish my address planters off with a deck sealer that is UV and moisture resistant.

The final build step involves adding your address numbers. I prefer the modern look of the Hillman floating 6″ numbers, which you can find on Amazon.

Finally, hang, and style! Swap out your plants seasonally according to the holidays, or plant low-maintenance plants like succulents for year-round interest. If you’ve got a “brown thumb” but like the look of real plants, Hobby Lobby has some very convincing-looking fake succulents that are maintenance-free!

The post How to Build a DIY Wood Address Planter appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Beyond using a dust collector or shop vac, you can control the dust in the air by building a DIY shop air filter. These work very much like the ones found in your AC furnace. I built my own air filter using a large 14” squirrel cage furnace fan I got used from a house trailer. It really helps control dust in my small one-car-garage-sized shop.

Overview of Building a Shop Air Filter

Building a DIY shop air filter doesn’t take an engineering degree. The basic premise requires a few key parts and some general know-how. The biggest components include material for the enclosure and the centrifugal fan. You can find these in any air handler. See if you can find a used one that still has good bearings so it doesn’t make a huge racket while running.

Building the Enclosure and Installing the Fan

I built the enclosure from MDF and painted it. On one side I cut the opening for the filtered intake air. The other side included a space for the blower fan exhaust. Aside from that, you need a way to switch the fan on and off and a hole for the power cord. I used an extension cord, but you could use as easily wire up a male power receptacle. That lets you use a standard extension cord to supply power to the shop air filter.

I placed the fan inside a wooden box with my opening cut into the side. I then put a FilterBuy 2” thick pleated furnace filter on the other side of the box over the hole cut specifically for it.

Testing Out the DIY Shop Air Filter

I flipped the power switch after wiring everything up and plugging in my new shop air filter. The air gets pulled in through the filter. The 2″ pleated filter does an excellent job of removing the sawdust particles floating in the air. I even placed a piece of laminated plywood on the top of the box so I could use it as an additional work surface.

Alternatives to the DIY Shop Air Filter

Rather than build your own air filters, you can buy them already made. They also tend to have better filtration systems. General International makes a nice one that automatically turns on when it senses dust or pollen in the air. Wen offers a less expensive, budget model. Both of these filter systems hang from the ceiling, and they both have remote controls. They also have much better filter systems than the one I made which uses a furnace filter.

Final Thoughts

If you tend to have a lot of dust in your shop despite your best efforts at collecting dust, consider building a DIY shop air filter. It might make a lot of sense over any other efforts you can make to reduce dust. It’s also better for your health in the long run—and that matters. If you find that don’t want to tackle building one yourself, then consider picking up some of the solutions available on the market. For the price and value, they’re hard to pass up.

Have your own thoughts on controlling dust in the workshop? Leave us a comment below—and thanks for reading.

The post Building a DIY Shop Air Filter to Control Airborne Dust appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

The bench hook is probably the simplest, most useful, and easiest to make workshop accessory. Some are certainly fancier and more functional than others, but even the most rudimentary bench hooks are as helpful as having an extra hand. This accessory minimizes the need for vises or clamps, allows you to make quick cuts, can perform the same function as a bench dog, and the more sophisticated versions make quick miters easy. So here’s a short guide on how to make a simple bench hook.

First—What is a Bench Hook?

Before we get too far into how to make a bench hook it might be good to explain what exactly it is. At its core, a bench hook holds workpieces in place while crosscutting with a hand saw. This accessory—typically built by hand— improves both the accuracy of your cut while giving you an additional measure of safety.

It sits on top of your workbench with the “hook” overlapping the front edge. This lets you use one hand to push a workpiece against the makeshift fence while making a cut. The fence is held in place by the front lip of the bench hook—which, quite literally—”hooks” onto the workbench. It frees your hand to control the material as you saw, rather than having to simultaneously hold the board steady.

You can also combine the use of a face vice or even clamps to hold the bench hook in place.

How to Make a Simple Bench Hook

As you can see from the photo, there’s not much to a simple bench hook. Much like the author, it doesn’t have to look good to be useful! You can use three scrap pieces of wood fastened with screws or with strong wood glue. Part A acts as the fence, Part B is the base, and Part C is the “hook”. There are so many ways how to make a simple bench hook that you can customize it to fit your specific needs.

Steps to Building a Bench Hook

1. Find a plank or board for Part B and determine the desired length and width. If you will mostly be using it to cut, or you want to use it in the place of a bench dog, it can be on the shorter side. If you plan to use traditional woodworking tools such as hand planes and spokeshaves, you might want more of a shooting board. For this, a deeper bench hook works best.
2. Cut the fence Part A and the hook Part C to the width of Part B.
3. Fasten them to opposite ends and sides of Part B (see photo above) so that Part C hooks the front edge of your workbench. Try to ensure that any screws or fasteners are flush with the wood.

Bonus Option for Miters

If you want to increase the functionality further, pre-cut miters into the fence Part A so that you can make quick, easy angle cuts. Just be sure those angles are correct!

Bonus Option for Pull Cuts

Consider letting Part B extend beyond the fence Part A (not flush as in the picture). This lets you use the bench hook with a Japanese-style saw that cuts on the pull stroke. In this way, you can also pull against the far face of the fence and not just push against the fence as you would with a western saw.

You might have also noticed that the bench hook is reversible. This lets you add to your miter angles or even start over if the first try didn’t work out so well!

That’s All!

The simple bench hook is a great first woodworking project for beginners and a very handy tool for experienced craftsmen. It’s often overlooked, but it certainly shouldn’t be. We hope you have fun with your new bench hook. If you have any additional tips about how to make one, add them in the comments below—or contact us with your own Pro tips.

The post How to Make a Bench Hook in 3 Simple Steps appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.