A while back we did an article on how to install a Simpson Craftsman door on a 1920s bungalow home. It was an incredible update and really brought out the charm of the wraparound porch. Recently, we had the opportunity to follow up and review one of the Simpson barn doors for Pro Tool Reviews. We paired the interior door with Goldberg Brothers sliding barn door track hardware and add some privacy to the master bath. Currently, it has no door—just a 36-inch opening. To fully cover the doorway and add some style, we opted for a 3′ 6″ (42″) barn door made from Cherry.

Simpson Barn Doors Construction

Simpson offers its exterior and interior barn doors in a variety of wood styles, but more importantly, it really had the look and character he wanted for the home. The company makes doors in over a dozen different wood species. Want Fir, Alder, Ash, Cherry, Maple, Oak, or Walnut? No problem. Simpson makes the door’s long stiles using multiple pieces of wood instead of a single piece. This type of construction adds strength without changing the look of the door.

The core of the Simpson barn door uses a finger-jointed construction with lots of glue surfaces. The outer edge band then blends into the 1/16″ vertical grain surface veneer to mask the joints. It’s a really robust door that should last forever.

Shipping a Door

I wouldn’t know how to ship a door in such a way as to keep it intact upon receipt. Simpson has this down pat. The Simpson barn door arrived plywood-crated and strapped to a couple of 2×4 stand-offs. Inside, veneer protected the door further, and we found absolutely no damage upon inspection. Other companies should take note.

Sanding and Preparation

While this Cherry Simpson Barn Door (Model #49801) would have looked great with just a clear coat, we needed to match an existing room. The door could be made to match the existing Cherry furniture easily with a nice coat of stain. We ultimately opted for a nice Red Mahogany which gave the Cherry barn door a beautiful reddish-brown hue that blended well into the room. We used a new Festool hybrid sander to prepare the door, starting from 100 grit.

Between coats of stain, we sanded by hand using 320 grit, just to smooth down the grain. A great alternative would be to grab some Monocoat and do everything in one pass after sanding down to around 220. That’s probably how I’d do it the next time around. The final process included coating the door on both sides with two layers of satin polyurethane.

The combined Cherry wood, styling, and finish produced absolutely stunning results. One thing about Simpson barn doors is that they finish well. The grain on the cherry door simply popped once we were finished.

Installing the Simpson Barn Door and Hardware

Choosing barn door hardware may prove more difficult than actually installing Simpson barn doors. Once we settled on using the Goldberg Brothers barn door track (check them out here), we only needed to attach it to the door and wall. Quick Pro tip: railing systems rarely align to wall studs. This necessitates the use of an extended header or other means to ensure your steel track can support the weight of a heavy sliding barn door.

The Goldberg Barn Track we used comes in black or silver and supports up to 400 pounds. That’s enough to hold me, my wife, and the door…possibly one of my kids as well. The actual door hanging hardware included nuts, washers, and bolts which matched the rail perfectly. The top-hanging system balanced the door evenly when sliding across the rail.

Robust door stops are included for each end of the top track and felt pads let you soften the close on either end. To guide the bottom of the door you can opt for using a standard “T” door guide (requires routing a 1/4-inch channel in the door) or a “U” guide. As we had Berber carpet and a concrete slab, we opted for an aftermarket wall-mounted guide.

Simpson 49801 Barn Door Specs

• Series: Interior Barn Doors
• Type: Exterior Decorative
• Applications: Can be used for a swing door, pocket door, by-pass door, with barn track hardware, with pivot hardware and for any room in the home.
• Construction type: Engineered all-wood stiles and rails with dowel pinned stile/rail joinery
• Panels: 3/4 in. flat panel with square V-groove and applied rail

Available Wood Species and Materials:

• Fir
• Alder
• Ash
• Cedar (Red)
• Cherry
• Hemlock
• Hickory
• Knotty Alder
• Knotty Pine
• Mahogany (Sapele)
• Maple
• Oak (Red)
• Ponderosa Pine
• Poplar (Paint Grade)
• Poplar (Stain Grade)
• Quarter Sawn Red Oak
• Quarter Sawn White Oak
• Walnut
• White Birch
• White Oak

Conclusion

Installing Simpson Barn Doors allowed us to create a much-needed privacy barrier for our bathroom. When doing a project like this, it’s nice to eliminate any potential issues. In our experiences, Simpson seems to provide consistent quality. The door arrived straight, square, and undamaged, and it had no imperfections or issues with taking stain. We had equal success with the hardware from Goldberg Brothers. Once that’s out of the way, you can just get the job done and enjoy your door.

I’d work with these doors again for myself or any customer who wants the refined look of hardwood with the many options, sizes, and wood species Simpson offers.

Pricing on these doors will vary by wood species and dealer, but start around $479 for the slab for a 42-inch wide interior barn door.

For more information, check out the Simpson Door website.

The post Simpson Barn Doors Review – 49801 Cherry appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

When determining the right types of adhesives for a project or repair you need to understand how each reacts with various materials. Manufacturers design adhesives for nearly every kind of application. We will cover some general classifications of adhesives as well as specific recommendations for each. Hopefully, this gives you an idea of where to begin.

Chances are, you have already used some of these types of adhesives. You can find most of them at your favorite home improvement store. If you really get stuck (get it!) on what glue to use, all you have to do is read the packaging of the adhesives to find the one that lists what you are trying to do.

White Glue

Think “Elmer’s Glue”. This non-waterproof adhesive doesn’t have much holding strength. You might use it on indoor carpentry jobs to hold something in place temporally that you will then permanently fasten together later. My kids and wife use this type of glue for crafts and school projects all the time. It’s great because it only needs water to clean up.

While white glue technically does a decent job holding wood together, it lacks the structural integrity of an actual woodworker’s glue. That appears next on our list.

• Set time: 30-60 minutes
• Cure time: 24 hours

Shop White glue at Amazon.

Woodworkers’ Glue – Our Favorite Type of Adhesive

As the name implies, this glue works really well when bonding wood. Carpenter’s glue comes in both waterproof and regular formulas. It can also be sanded, stained, and painted in much the same way as wood. Manufacturers produce these types of adhesive glues in a variety of levels of holding power. Make sure you check the bottle to find out if you’ll need additional fastening for your particular project.

Our favorite? Tightbond 2 wood glue. We used that to bond together ash for the two-piece round table we use in our office and shop.

• Set time: 30-60 minutes
• Cure time: 24 hours

Shop Tightbond 2 wood glue at Amazon.

Super-Glue

Super Glue works as an instant setting adhesive. It has the strength to withstand most shock and strain, but it gets brittle over time. It comes in a liquid and gel form and is suitable for a wide variety of jobs.

Use Super Glue with caution and follow the directions. Another thing we observe is that you have only a few days to use Super Glue once you open the bottle. Some containers may give you up to a few weeks. Typically, we just recommend you buy as much as you need for the project.

Superglue also serves as a good example of “less is more”. In most cases, you only need a small amount to provide incredible holding power. One advanced use of superglue involves using its quick-adhesive properties to serve as a “clamp between two pieces of wood that you bond using Tightbond 2 or similar wood glue.

• Set time: 5-60 seconds
• Cure time: 24 hours

Shop Super Glue at Amazon.

Epoxy

I love epoxy. It may be my favorite type of adhesive simply because it produces the strongest bond that we have. Epoxy works like an industrial-strength adhesive. It comes in two parts that you mix together before applying it to both sides of the workpiece. Epoxy can withstand shock, chemicals, and you can even use it underwater.

Epoxy also works to hold anchors in concrete when drilling and inserting threaded bolts for industrial and commercial building applications. For these applications, just be sure to use something like a hollow drill bit or vacuum out the hole before inserting the epoxy adhesive.

• Set time: 12 hours
• Cure time: 3–5 days

Shop Epoxy adhesives at Amazon.

Polyurethane Glue

Polyurethane glue comes in one part, so you don’t have to worry about mixing it. It offers a comparable strength to epoxy. Gorilla Glue makes a good polyurethane glue adhesive. It works really well as an all-around catch-all adhesive glue.

Whether you plan to repair broken furniture, ceramics, metal, or plastic, poly glue might just do the trick. We’ve even seen people use it on stone and masonry!

• Set time: 1-2 hours
• Cure time: 24 hours

Shop polyurethane glue at Amazon.

Contact Cement

The instant adhesion on contact offered by this adhesive is both a benefit and a drawback. This type of adhesive is often used for applying laminate countertop material to the base wood. What makes this type of adhesive difficult is that if you are not used to working with it, it can be tricky to get your workpieces to line up correctly. You really only have one shot at it before it all sticks together!

You also want to coat both sides of the materials to be cemented together. Then—and this is unintuitive—wait. That’s right—giving both sides around 5–15 minutes to get “tacky” actually helps them bond together more securely.

Contact cement works really well on things like small wood trim pieces or securing two large flat surfaces together. We’ve seen people use it for fixing rubber outer soles on work boots and sneakers. The innate flexibility of contact cement helps it absorb shocks, so it retains a bit of its flexibility over time.

Silicon doesn’t shrink or crack, so it works really well for many household applications and automotive uses. We also see it used to fix aquariums (glass) as well as providing temporary repairs on windows, doorframes—even camera lens housings.

• Set time: 30 minutes
• Cures time: 3-7 days

Shop contact cement at Home Depot.

Silicone Rubber Adhesives

Silicone rubber adhesive is an excellent adhesive for awkward joints. It offers a number of characteristics that simply aren’t matched by most other adhesives. It is waterproof, sticks to most surfaces, is chemical resistant, and remains flexible over time.

• Set time: 60 minutes
• Cure time: 24 hours

Shop silicone rubber adhesive at Amazon.

Plastic Resin Glue

Carpenters and remodelers often use plastic resin glues for putting down laminate and raw veneers. You can use it for edge work as well. DAP has a type called Weldwood that’s water-activated and features a nice long working time. A thin coat lets you secure thin materials like veneers to an underlayment.

Plastic resin glue provides a waterproof and heat-resistant adhesion for any number of construction adhesives. If there’s any downside, it’s that it requires a long set time and cure period.

• Set time: 3-6 hours
• Cure time: 24 hours

Shop plastic resin glue at Amazon.

Construction Adhesives

This type of adhesive is used in construction as the name implies. It can effectively reduce the number of screws required for some materials. It also helps prevent squeaks in sub-flooring. This type of adhesive is usually polyurethane-based but other types exist for use with foams and plastics.

Construction adhesives have become rather sophisticated over the past decade or so. You can now find products geared specifically for bathroom (wet) applications, marble, sub-floors, drywall, and paneling. Some companies provide advanced grip and heavy-duty types of construction adhesives that deliver even stronger bonds when fully cured.

• Set time: 30 minutes
• Cure time: 7 days

Shop liquid nails at Home Depot.

Final Thoughts on Types of Adhesives

Keep in mind that the most important aspects of how to choose the right type of adhesive are where they are intended to be used and the intended use. Some of the characteristics advisable to keep an eye out for are the toxicity of the product, especially if you are repairing or improving anything that is involved in food prep or consumption. You also want to know whether the adhesive can handle exposure to water. Lastly, some adhesives are flammable or the vapors are flammable so try to keep that in mind as well.

If you have any additions or recommendations for this article, please leave them in the comments below.

The post Types of Adhesives for Projects, Construction, Repairs, and More appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

When you own a 1920’s bungalow home, you quickly become familiar with renovation. Unfortunately, people don’t always make the right choices. This home already had its exterior renovated using HardiePlank® Lap Siding. They failed, however, to use the same bug- and rot-resistant material for the window trim. Instead, windows were trimmed using pine and then primed and painted. Years later, that trim began rotting profusely. We opted to replace the pine trim with HardieTrim® Boards to give them the same rot-resistance offered by these fiber-cement products. If you find yourself in a similar situation, knowing how to replace wood window trim with HardieTrim Boards can ensure you only do this sort of renovation once.

Gathering the HardieTrim Materials

We reached out to James Hardie Building Products Inc. and they were kind enough to supply us with enough HardieTrim® Boards to replace all of our window trim. Since the former windows had exterior sills, we needed to transform them into a more rain-friendly facia style. This also worked better with the traditional HardieTrim look.

PVC vs HardieTrim Boards
When you want rot-free window trim you have a couple of obvious options: HardieTrim or PVC. The reason we reached out to James Hardie and not a PVC manufacturer had to do with heat. In the Florida summer, heat causes PVC to expand significantly. In the winter months, it contracts. You can get a difference of as much as 3/16 of an inch in some climates. While you can combat these issues with a high-quality window/trim caulk—I prefer a material like HardieTrim that doesn’t have as much movement and also provides various texture and color options.

Supplies List

For this project we used the following materials:

• 22) 3.5″ width HardieTrim Boards 5/4 Smooth – Primed for Paint
• 16) 5.5″ width HardieTrim Boards 5/4 Smooth – Primed for Paint
• 1) 11.25″ width HardieTrim Board 5/4 Smooth – Primed for Paint

HardieTrim 5/4 boards measure around 1-inch thick so they work particularly well against HardiePlank lap siding. The thickness allows them to extend past the edge of the plank trim pieces, making for a nice finished look. Each board measures 144-inches in length and has a primed finish with no texture. We picked them up directly at the local factory in Plant City, Florida.

About James Hardie
James Hardie is the inventor of and foremost world leader in modern fiber cement technology, as well as a market leader in Europe for fiber gypsum products. Found on more than eight million homes, James Hardie continues to set the standard for manufacturing, innovation, marketing and distribution of premium fiber cement products across the globe.

Removing Old or Rotted Trim

Pulling old trim off the historic home involved carefully cutting the caulk seams with a razor knife and then prying it up with a flat bar. Whenever possible, we used additional material to spread out the pressure at the fulcrum. This helped us avoid breaking any of the existing HardiePlank siding. Doing that would have resulted in a lot of unwanted labor.

Replacing Window Trim with HardieTrim Boards

Typically, when you install HardieTrim boards, you do so before installing the siding. This lets you run the siding right up against the boards—giving a very nice finished look to the home. It also makes it easy to paint the trim since it stands above the siding. With our 1920’s craftsman bungalow, the siding stands out a good bit, so we went with the extra-thick 1-inch 5/4 HardieTrim boards to get the desired effect.

Cutting HardieTrim Boards

Once we removed all of the old wood trim, we were ready to measure and cut the new boards to fit. With each board length coming in at 144-inches (12 ft.) we found we could work efficiently in creating our trim. In the end, we had very little extra material left over. To cut the HardieTrim material we opted for the use of Diablo Fiber Cement blades. Named “HardieBlade”, these blades feature just four carbide teeth on the 5″, 6-1/5″, and 7-1/4-inch sizes. The 10-inch blade has 6 teeth and the 12-inch blade has 8.

About Diablo HardieBlades
I’ve cut a lot of HardiePlank and HardieTrim. Over the years, I’ve used every type of blade and every “trick” recommended by professionals. That includes using abrasive blades, flipping a saw blade backward, etc. Nothing allows saws to cut James Hardie material as quickly and consistently as the Diablo HardieBlades. While the blades cost between $41 and $90 each—they’re worth every penny. Your time is money, and these blades cut cleaner, faster, last longer, and make far less of a mess than any other saw-based solution we’ve used.

Shop Diablo HardieBlades at Acme Tools

Mostly we did crosscuts on our trim, and an old corded Ryobi circular saw did great for this work. The HardieBlades produced some dust, but nothing like what you’d see with an abrasive saw. If you want to control the dust, the use of a sufficient dust extractor and a circular saw with a dust collection port should do the trick.

For a great circular saw that handles dust control, check out the corded Makita 5057KB here.

Ripping HardieTrim Boards with a Table Saw

When working on some corner pieces, we found a rip cut was necessary to get the correct width. For this, we turned to an old Bosch 10-inch circular saw we keep around for rough jobs that might create a mess. This saw has been going strong for almost a decade now, and it has plenty of power to rip even HardieTrim boards. The 6-tooth 10-inch HardieBlade ripped through each 12-foot piece of HardeiTrim like it was a 5/4 decking board. If you haven’t picked up on our love for these blades—here’s another use that made us lifelong fans.

Replacing a Sill with Hardie

Since our old window trim featured a wood sill—most of which were rotting—we needed a solution to replace that with a standard piece of HardieTrim. The former sill measured just 1.5-inches in height whereas the new trim material would be 3.5-inches. We decided to use a 4.5-inch angle grinder to cut out the HardiePlank siding so it could accommodate the new trim pieces. We ran a dust extractor beside the blade while it cut to collect a majority of the dust.

This proved easier than we expected, and we quickly had the space opened up for our new boards. We also found that we could make a shallower cut that helped us avoid going through the peel & stick below. Once the cut was complete, we snapped off the section of the plank and moved to the next phase.

Installing the New HardieTrim Boards

We chose to face-nail the new boards, placing a couple of nails every 16-inches or so. They laid nice and flat, and we lined them up so that the top “post” went across the two vertical pieces which extended all the way to the bottom of the framed out trim. The bottom piece replaced the former sill and nestled between the two verticals.

Using a 15-gauge pneumatic nailer, we popped in our nails and moved to the next window.

Caulking the Seams

I don’t many people who enjoy caulking. We chose OSI Quad Max Window, Door, and Siding Sealant. It runs around $99 for a 12-pack of tubes, but it does occasionally go on sale. This particular sealant is paintable, has excellent durability, and flexes with both temperature expansion and material movement.

The downside is that it takes a bit more force to get it out of the tube—even more so if the tube isn’t at room temperature. Our recommendation is to go with a battery-powered tool like the Milwaukee cordless caulk gun. It will make your life much easier in the long run and you should get lots of use out of that tool as a painter or home renovator.

Painting the HardieTrim

After caulking the seams around the new Hardie window trim, the painting comes next. We went with the same colors we had previously, however, we switched to a more robust level of paint from Florida Paints (their Seaside line). This paint should hold up better to the fierce Florida sun and weather.

Wrapping It Up

If you want a material that will last, HardiePlank and HardieTrim should rise to the top of your list. HardieTrim boards are a fiber cement product, so they don’t rot and they don’t get eaten by termites or carpenter ants. Aside from the multitude of available colors*, we also love the durability Hardie products offer for those of us in hurricane-prone areas. Using HardiePlank and HardieTrim is like wrapping your home in a thin layer of concrete! It also doesn’t burn or melt.

* James Hardie’s proprietary baked-on ColorPlus® Technology finish resists fading, discoloration, chipping and cracking and is backed by a 15-year limited warranty.

As a building product, it has a lot going for it over wood or PVC. Builders want products that have the flexibility and look they need to match their architectural designs. Hardie does a great job providing the options and sizes needed to tackle almost any style of building. Given that it’s used on historic homes and also modern housing—that’s a testament to the flexibility and enduring nature of this material.

We think the final result speaks volumes, and we’re looking forward to not having to worry about further rot or degradation around the windows of this beautiful historic downtown bungalow.

Acknowledgment

James Hardie provided the HardieTrim boards for this article, but no other compensation was involved. If you want more information on James Hardie Building Products, please visit their website.

The post How to Replace Wood Window Trim with HardieTrim Boards appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Protect Your Roofing from Weather Extremes

The Polyglass Polystick XFR is a dual-purpose fire-resistant and self-adhered waterproofing underlayment featuring the proprietary Burn-Shield technology. This underlayment works with metal roofing, asphalt shingles, mechanically attached tiles, or any other application where you’d like to provide some water-proofed protection against extreme heat.

How Many Ways Does the Polyglass Polystick XFR Protect?

Polyglass tells us that, while other fire-related underlayment products will struggle to find a balance between fire protection and reliable waterproofing, the Polystick XFR combines their ADESO and Burn-Shield technologies with high-quality materials to excel in both areas.

This underlayment helps combustible decking achieve a UL Class A rating as well as long-term weathering performance. It can withstand temperatures up to 265°.

The Polyglass Polystick XFR’s ADESO Dual-Compound Self-Adhered technology features an SBS (elastomeric) modified bitumen upper compound and a self-adhesive compound on the bottom. Fiberglass reinforces the underlayment to provide strength and stability. Polystick XFR applies quickly to save on labor costs.

You can also use the Polystick XFR as a secondary layer above Polystick MTS Plus as part of a multi-ply underlayment system. Able to withstand exposure for up to 180 days, you can use it with works-in-progress.

The Polyglass Polystick XFR comes with a standard 10-year limited material warranty or a 10-year Polystick labor and material warranty when installed by a Polyglass registered contractor. Polyglass also offers a 30-year 2-Ply Polystick labor and material warranty. This can apply when two plies of the Polystick XFR treatment are used and installed by a certified contractor.

For more information about Polyglass underlayments or any other products in Polyglass line, visit polyglass.us.

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The post New James Hardie Building Products appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Nearly every building professional and DIYer is familiar with DAP products. Their Alex Caulk is one of the most popular brands of sealant sold at big box stores nationwide. We’ve also reviewed DAP DynaGrip construction adhesive which is an advanced product for flooring and similar uses. That product actually won a Pro Tool Innovation Award in 2017. They even make a “superglue” called DAP Rapidfuse. DAP DynaFlex Ultra is an exterior sealant designed for use with windows, doors, and even vinyl siding seams. It’s particularly good at taking care of the places where HardiBoard meets window trim. As a window and door sealant, the key feature is that it stays permanently flexible, so it adapts to changes in weather that cause other sealants to crack or split.

DAP says DynaFlex Ultra uses Weather Max technology. This is a trademarked name for its flavor of UV protection, flexibility, and resistance to dirt which makes this a reliable product for handling anything from intense sun exposure to extreme cold and rain. The UV resistance, in particular, resists color fading, yellowing, cracking, chalking, and crumbling.

DAP does a pretty good job of hyping up the benefits of DynaFlex. Once cured, DAP DynaFlex Ultra is designed to resist mold, mildew, and algae for the life of the sealant. It creates a permanent waterproof seal that stays in place throughout the expected contraction and expansion of building materials throughout the seasons. DAP DynaFlex Ultra can handle exposure to rain AND can be painted just one hour after application.

Using DAP DynaFlex Ultra Sealant

Immediately upon inserting the tube and clipping a 1/4-inch hole in the nozzle, I noticed that the sealant flowed immediately. There’s no foil seal inside the tube to puncture, and DynaFlex flows much easier than traditional caulk. It also stops when you back off the applicator. Not all of us run with a Milwaukee M18 cordless caulk gun, so ease of use means something.

The gap around our office door and vinyl trim became the first use we had for the DynaFlex. It went on easily, and I loved the way the sealant flowed. It went in much more easily than traditional Alex caulk or even 230, but it remained easy to control. I never felt as if the flow got away from me—unless I forgot to back off the applicator.

The DAP DynaFlex Ultra sealant was also helpful for a 1920s bungalow that had been redone with HardiBoard siding. While the siding looks great, and the remodeled house remains in excellent condition, much of the window trim needed a touch-up. In many places, the original caulk had shrunk, cracked, and/or split. Taking some time to re-apply new DynaFlex sealant to those areas in preparation for repainting became easy to prioritize.

Of course, summer in Central Florida means rain—lots of it. The two-hour window on the DAP DynaFlex Ultra Window and Door Sealant allowed us to find a break in the rain and get the work done quickly. In some cases, it rained just over an hour after application. Going back over the work, this didn’t seem to affect the job one bit.

DAP DynaFlex Ultra vs DynaFlex 230

In comparing DAP DynaFlex Ultra vs DynaFlex 230 a couple of key things reveal themselves. For one, DynaFlex Ultra is more flexible, having a movement rating of Class 35 (except Clear) vs the DynaFlex 230 rating of Class 25. DynaFlex Ultra is simply more flexible—and remains so. It also has great UV resistance to yellowing. That same resistance gives it a longer resilience against hardening, cracking, or splitting. DAP DynaFlex 230 is currently available in a wider range of colors than Ultra, however, it has been out longer. It also fills larger gaps. Both products are latex-based and clean up easily with water.

Other differences and comparative specs:

Conclusion

When you’re talking about window and door sealants, you want to choose wisely. Picking the wrong product will cost you in the long run. You’ll invariably have to go back and re-seal that door trim, window borders, or other areas. DAP runs about $6.28/tube or $75.36/case. It most commonly can be found in White and Beige, but you can also order it in Clear, Clay, Dark Bronze, and Iron Gray.

Because it stays permanently flexible (we checked it weeks later) this product makes a lot of sense for filling in gaps up to 3/8″. I wish I had used it on prior products as it would have saved me lots of time. The price and ease-of-use make it an easy recommendation, and we feel DAP has provided a product that delivers premium performance. If you want “builder grade” DynaFlex 230 is your product. For better UV protection and weatherproofing, DAP DynaFlex Ultra seems to deliver.

You can find more information about DAP DynaFlex Ultra here. 

The post DAP DynaFlex Ultra Window and Door Sealant appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

First, you walk out the front door and notice the paint on your wood decking is starting to fade. Before you know it, days turn into years, and now you’re stepping over rotten wood and voids where faded paint used to be. After you lose a few toys a couple of small pets, and maybe your youngest child, you know it’s time to do something. In my case, that “something” involved installing MoistureShield Composite Decking and their Pro Aluminum Railing.

MoistureShield composite decking brings the hardwood look of your home’s interior to your outdoor living space. It has a limited lifetime warranty and is one of the only composite decking materials that can be installed in water without any issues. MoistureShield offers several lines and colors for their composite decking. We chose the Vision line in the “Smokey Gray” color. The MoistureShield Pro Aluminum railing is available in white or black, so we decided white would be the best choice to match the Smokey Gray composite deck.

Similar to lumber sizes, the most common MoistureShield composite decking comes in the lumber dimensions of a 1 x 6. The actual dimensions are ~1” x ~5-1/2”. Other dimensional sizes are available as well, which we’ll get into later.

Preparing for MoistureShield Composite Decking

MoistureShield composite decking installs on the same ‘bones’ as typical wood decking. However, before you start the install, all the old wood decking needs to come up. Once all the tired wood was gone, inspect the framing to ensure that we have good wood to fasten to. Sometimes you’re in good shape, other times you’ll need to replace some boards. On our project, only a few boards needed repair.

Options and Choices

Even after you choose the line and color that you want to go with, there are still other options needed to be considered. There are grooved and non-grooved composite decking boards. Do you want exposed fasteners (non-grooved) or hidden fasteners (grooved)? Hidden fasteners are going to cost more money, but they offer a cleaner, more professional look.

Feeling Not So Groovy

If you choose to go with the hidden fastener (grooved) look, you’ll want to include some non-grooved boards in your order as well. The grooved boards include just that on the long edges – grooves. When your grooved boards terminate on the edge, you either see the long grooves exposed down the edge of the board, or you see the cross-cut ends of the boards with the small groove on either side. While this may not be a show-stopper, it can be unsightly. The better idea is to do some picture-framing or soldiering on the outer edge of your decking project.

After your groovy decision is made, you still have more options to consider. The MoistureShield composite decking comes in 12, 16, and 20-foot lengths. They also offer 2×4 (1-1/2” x 3-1/2”) and 2×6 (1-1/2” x 5-1/2”) composite boards in matching colors. These are available in 12 and 16-foot lengths. Finally, Trim Boards measure .65” x 11.25” and only come in 12-foot lengths. Trim boards are what you’ll use for trimming out the edges of your deck, including around stairs, risers, etc.

Expansion Joints

While composite decking expands and contracts less than wood will, MoistureShield still recommends a side and end-gap when you install it. Keep in mind that all the framing underneath is still wood, so it will expand and contract with temperature changes. Allow 1/4-inch side-to-side spacing between deck boards and 1/8-inch (or greater) end-to-end spacing between ends of boards (butt joints). If you’re in part of the country that expects freezing temperatures during the winter, leave 1/4-inch butt joints.

Installing MoistureShield Vision Composite Decking

Much like tiling or other types of flooring, getting started is probably the most important and time-consuming step. The last thing you want is to get started ‘square’ and then end with a crooked overhang on the opposite end of the deck. Measure twice, do a temporary layout, then measure again before making your first cut. Quality planning on the front end is critical to a professional finish.

Cutting the MoistureShield composite decking is simple, and much like cutting lumber. We used the Milwaukee M18 cordless dual-bevel miter saw to handle all our cross-cuts. The cut edges on the MoistureShield composite are very clean, with no signs of chipping or blowout. Since it doesn’t melt like other composites that we’ve seen before, MoistureShield recommends using a Carbide-tipped circular saw blade with fewer than 20 teeth. This would be for a typical 7-1/4” circ saw, so a standard framing blade on your miter saw will work just fine.

Pro Tip: These composite deck boards are not always straight. In fact, if they’re laying in the sun awaiting installation, they will tend to warp. Make sure you pop a chalk line every now and then to keep your new deck straight and square. If you come across an offending board, traditional board straightening methods work fine.

Turning the Corner

This project is more of a porch than it is a deck. The porch spans the front of the home, then makes a 90-degree turn and runs another 30-feet down the side of the home. At the turn, the old wood decking just butted perpendicular to one another at the turn. A herringbone pattern at the transition with the MoistureShield composite decking adds a much more appealing look.

In order to make the herringbone pattern at the transition, you may need to add diagonal bracing to the deck framing. This isn’t too difficult for most projects – you only need to add it where the ends of the MoistureShield composite decking will terminate. Without this additional bracing, the ends may be over a void, which creates a soft spot.

To pull off a herringbone transition, ensure that you turn the corner at exactly 90°. If you’re off, the boards will show it. Use a rafter square (Speed Square) to get your pattern going. The herringbone pattern with the MoistureShield Vision ends up being a great look no matter what color you choose.

Once all the decking is complete, it’s time to trim it out. This goes pretty fast, as all you’re doing is covering the “fascia” boards that border the deck.

Next Up: Installing MoistureShield Pro Aluminum Railing

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DAP DynaGrip Advanced Subfloor Adhesive makes some pretty bold claims – particularly the ability to work on wet, frozen, and treated lumber. When DAP told us their new DynaGrip Advanced Subfloor Adhesive could be applied at near-freezing temperatures, we decided to have a go at it.

I needed to work on some subfloor repair following the discovery of an electrical installation that isn’t up to code (read: bonehead move by the installer).  After giving a couple tubes a night in the freezer, I brought the DAP DynaGrip Advanced Subfloor Adhesive up to finish the work. I live in Central Florida and while some of you still remember the last snow, it’s been in the mid-90’s for a couple weeks here. So the only way to test the freezing claim is to artificially create the condition.

As it turns out, even freezing the tubes didn’t stop the adhesive from flowing. It really is easy to gun in cold temperatures. Not only did it flow smoothly from the tube – it got rid of any hint of squeaks from this section of 3/4-inch plywood flooring.

Check out an overview of the entire DAP DynaGrip lineup!

DAP DynaGrip Advanced Subfloor Adhesive Key Features

• High-strength, weatherproof bond prevents floor squeaks and improves structural performance of subfloor assembly
• Bonds wet, frozen, and treated lumber
• Excellent adhesion stands up to extreme weather conditions
• Easy to gun, even in cold temperatures

DAP DynaGrip Advanced Subfloor Adhesive Specifications

Recommended Use

• Subfloor
• wood to wood connections
• glued floor systems
• deck installation

Not Recommended For

• plastic
• foamboard
• mirror installation
• constant water exposure
• non-porous materials
• applications other than subfloor and deck installation

Adheres To

• Plywood
• OSB
• Enhanced OSB
• Metal
• Masonry
• Concrete
• Wood
• Treated Lumber
• Dimensional Lumber

Other Specs

• Application Temperature: 0 – 120 degrees Fahrenheit
• Service Temperature: -20 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit
• Shelf Life: 18 months
• Skin Time: 15 minutes
• Cure Time: 7 days
• Certification: Meets or exceeds ASTM D3498, AFG-01
• Tested in Accordance with: PFS certification
• 10.3-Ounce Coverage: 1/4″ bead – 32 linear feet, 3/8″ bead – 14 linear feet
• 28-Ounce Coverage: 1/4″ bead – 86 linear feet, 3/8″ bead – 38 linear feet

Learn more here!

The post DAP DynaGrip Advanced Subfloor Adhesive Video Review appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

DAP recently announced its new DAP DynaGrip construction adhesives including latex, solvent, and hybrid formulas designed to deliver bonds in a matter of hours in all weather conditions. DynaGrip adhesives are compliant with stringent Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) regulations and appropriate for the installation of subfloors, drywall, heavy remodeling, and new construction.

Our Take on DAP DynaGrip

There’s a good chance that you’ve used DAP products whenever you’ve had to caulk, foam, seal, patch, or adhere materials to each other. Their Alex caulk remains a staple of painters everywhere. It’s no surprise: since its humble beginnings in the 1860s as a maker of sealing wax for food canning, DAP has innovated and acquired other innovators to offer a deep line of products to its customers. There’s even an Invention Submission tab on DAP’s website today. How cool is that—a company that not only does its own R&D but also understands sometimes great ideas comes from the jobsite or just a tinkerer in his shop?

“Formulated with the latest adhesive technologies and DAP’s commitment to quality and performance, professionals can count on the versatility and strength of DynaGrip products to get even the toughest jobs done right the first time. DynaGrip provides a grip that outperforms, ensuring a durable, long-lasting bond.”

Kate Piche, Group Product Director at DAP

Bonding Like a Mechanical Fastener

As any woodworker can tell you, the beauty of a good adhesive is the bond strength advantage it has over mechanical fasteners. Two pieces of wood screwed together will pull apart more easily than if the pieces were glued together with a high-quality adhesive. In fact, the wood would likely rip along its grain before the bond failed.

Adhesives have other advantages, as well: they don’t loosen, corrode, or split/damage the material. And So DAP has introduced what very well seems like a superior line of DAP DynaGrip construction adhesives. The new products offer those advantages as well as fast curing in any weather condition and safe application.

Below you’ll see a breakdown of each new DynaGrip product. We really like the project specificity, so we know we’re using the right adhesive for the job. There is an all-purpose adhesive, too, but narrowing the project scope down to drywall, or tub surround, or mirror-marble-granite is quite helpful. And knowing that these adhesives set up quickly no matter how hot or cold it is inside or out gives us peace of mind and the ability to get on with the rest of the job.

New DAP DynaGrip Construction Adhesives

DAP DynaGrip Heavy Duty

• DAP DynaGrip Heavy Duty for heavier remodeling jobs. This high-performance latex technology provides a strong permanent bond. DAP DynaGrip also bonds a wide range of building materials for interior and exterior construction jobs.
• DAP DynaGrip Heavy Duty Max features hybrid technology which DAP claims delivers much higher strength for tough applications where bond strength and speed are critical.

DAP DynaGrip Subfloor

• DAP DynaGrip 4000 Subfloor offers a high-strength weatherproof bond on wet, frozen and treated lumber, this can be applied in freezing temperatures. It’s PFS certified to exceed ASTM D 3498 specifications.
• DAP DynaGrip Advanced Subfloor provides a weatherproof bond that improves the structural performance of subfloor assembly. This solvent-based adhesive won’t freeze and has a VOC-compliant formula that exceeds ASTM D 3498 specifications.
• DAP DynaGrip Subfloor is a VOC-compliant adhesive that helps prevent floor squeaks. This adhesive meets ASTM D 3498 specifications.

DAP DynaGrip Project Specific

• DAP DynaGrip Mirror-Marble-Granite features hybrid technology that DAP claims to deliver faster bond strength. With permanent vertical hold in one hour, this formula is for installation of mirrors and countertops. DynaGrip Mirror-Marble-Granite is safe to use on granite and marble.
• DAP DynaGrip Tub Surround is specifically formulated for installing tub surrounds. It’s guaranteed safe for showers, and won’t burn or etch surrounding material. It applies white and dries clear.
• DAP DynaGrip Wood-Panel-Trim for bonding all trim materials including wood, foam, and PVC. This latex formula features instant grab.
• DAP DynaGrip Drywall prevents nail pops and helps limit sound and air movement between walls. This instant grab formula is for installing drywall panels on vertical walls and ceilings.
• DAP DynaGrip Foamboard adheres all foamboard materials to a wide range of substrates. It does so without the risk of etching or burning through. It’s compatible with XPS (extruded) and EPS (expanded) foam boards.

All-Purpose

• DAP DynaGrip All Purpose is for interior projects which require a strong permanent bond. This VOC-compliant formula provides adhesion to common building materials and features instant grab.

The post New DAP DynaGrip Construction Adhesives Preview appeared first on Pro Tool Reviews.

Sakrete recently introduced two new Sakrete epoxy products – Rapid Setting and High Strength – designed to securely anchor bolts or objects into concrete or masonry surfaces.

Sakrete Rapid Setting Anchoring Epoxy, as the name suggests, is designed for those jobs where a rapid completion time is needed. It can be used in both horizontal and vertical applications. Working time is about 15 minutes at 75° F with a full cure in approximately 10 hours.

Sakrete High Strength Anchoring Epoxy is designed for those bonding applications requiring exceptional pull out strength. Sakrete claims High Strength Epoxy provides 30% greater pull out strength than Rapid Setting Epoxy. Working time is about 28 minutes at 75° F with a full cure time in 24 hours.

Both new Sakrete epoxy products come in two-component single tubes that are applied using a standard caulking gun (or go cordless with options like Milwaukee’s M18 Caulk Gun). Drilled holes, surfaces and fixtures should be dust free and cleaned of grease, oil and other contaminants before using the epoxy.

“When it comes to anchoring thread bar or rebar into cement, our customers use heavy-duty epoxy to get the job done. Now, they can rely on the same name they trust for concrete to securely anchor fixtures such as railings into concrete.”

–Andrew Krawchyk, Sakrete and Amerimix National Product Manager

For more information, visit www.sakrete.com.

Pro Tip: When you’re working with epoxies, it’s incredibly important that you thoroughly clean the hole before applying the adhesive. Any debris or grease in there will reduce the strength of the bond and leave you with less structural integrity than the design calls for.

Sakrete Epoxy Solutions

Sakrete Rapid Setting Anchoring Epoxy Features

• Working time: 15 minutes at 75° F
• Full cure in approximately 10 hours
• Vertical and horizontal applications

Sakrete High Strength Anchoring Epoxy Features

• Working time: 28 minutes at 75° F
• Full cure time in 24 hours
• 30% greater pull out strength than Rapid Setting Epoxy

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